Updated June 2026. Originally visited in December 2018.
Belgrade ended up being one of our favourite stops during our travels through the Balkans. We originally planned to stay for a couple of weeks and quickly found ourselves settling into a comfortable routine of cafés, walks, good food and exploring different neighbourhoods.
We visited in December and even experienced a snowstorm while we were there, before celebrating Christmas with visiting family in the Serbian capital. The combination of lively streets, historic architecture, excellent food and welcoming atmosphere made it a city we genuinely enjoyed spending time in.
Belgrade’s food scene deserves its own article. If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations, have a look at our guide to where to eat in Belgrade.
Where to stay in Belgrade
Belgrade is a large city, but most visitors will probably want to stay somewhere close to the city centre. We found that being within walking distance of Knez Mihailova, Dorćol and Belgrade Fortress made it easy to explore much of the city without relying on public transport.
If you’re planning to stay for a few days, we’d recommend looking for accommodation in the city centre or nearby neighbourhoods such as Dorćol, Savamala or Vračar. Each area has its own character and gives easy access to restaurants, cafés and many of Belgrade’s main attractions.
We booked our accommodation through Booking.com, where you’ll find plenty of options throughout Belgrade, from budget apartments to boutique hotels.
Explore Belgrade’s Different Neighbourhoods
One of the things we enjoyed most about Belgrade was simply wandering around its different districts.
Knez Mihailova, the city’s main pedestrian street, quickly became one of our favourite places for a walk. Lined with shops, cafés and historic buildings, it acts as the heart of the city centre and connects many of Belgrade’s major attractions.
We also spent plenty of time in Skadarlija, Belgrade’s bohemian quarter and Dorćol, a neighbourhood filled with cafés, bars, restaurants and creative spaces. It felt slightly more relaxed than the city centre and quickly became one of our favourite parts of Belgrade.
For a completely different side of the city, we crossed the river to Novi Beograd. The wide boulevards, large apartment blocks and socialist-era architecture create a very different atmosphere. While there, we made a point of seeing the famous Genex Tower, one of the most iconic examples of Yugoslav brutalist architecture.
Visit Belgrade Fortress
No visit to Belgrade is complete without spending some time at Belgrade Fortress.
Located where the Sava and Danube rivers meet, the fortress offers fantastic views across the city and is one of the most important historical sites in Serbia. The surrounding park is also a pleasant place for a walk, especially on a clear winter day.
Temple of Saint Sava
The Temple of Saint Sava is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world and is impossible to miss when visiting Belgrade.
The building dominates the skyline and is impressive both inside and out. Even if you’re not particularly interested in religious sites, it’s worth visiting simply to appreciate the scale of the architecture.
House of Flowers
One of the more interesting places we visited was the House of Flowers, the mausoleum of former Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito.
Whether you’re interested in Yugoslav history or not, the museum provides a fascinating glimpse into a period that shaped much of the Balkans. It also helps explain some of the history and politics that continue to influence the region today.
Markets, Cafés and Everyday Life
We always enjoy visiting local markets when travelling, and Kalenić Market was one of our favourite places in Belgrade. It’s a lively market where locals shop for fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese and other produce.
Belgrade also has a fantastic café culture. Some of our favourite places included Pržionica D59B, Café Amelie, Hotel Moskva and Zaokret. We often found ourselves stopping for coffee between sightseeing, especially on cold winter days.
For an evening drink, Blaznavac was one of our favourite bars, with a fun atmosphere and plenty of character.
A Strange Visit to BIGZ
One of the more memorable places we explored was BIGZ, a huge former publishing house that had partially transformed into an artists’ and creative space.
At the time of our visit, much of the building felt semi-abandoned. There was security at the entrance and we were told before arriving that visitors are not supposed to enter, but we walked in confidently and somehow found ourselves exploring the building without any problems.
It was one of those slightly surreal travel experiences that you remember long after the more famous attractions have faded from memory.
Final Thoughts
Belgrade isn’t the prettiest city in Europe, but it has an energy that’s difficult to describe until you’ve spent some time there.
The mix of history, café culture, food, architecture and neighbourhood life makes it a city that’s easy to settle into. What started as a two-week stop became one of the highlights of our Balkan trip, and it’s a city we’d happily return to one day.