Matsue was one of the easiest cities to enjoy on our 23 day slow train route through western Japan. After smaller stops like Masuda and Izumo, Matsue felt a little more substantial, but still calm, historic and very manageable.
We stayed two nights, which gave us enough time to visit Matsue Castle, walk through the old samurai district, stop at a fox shrine, eat cold soba, find GREAT coffee, enjoy a great lunchtime BBQ deal and watch the sunset over Lake Shinji.
It’s also close enough to Izumo Taisha that you can visit the shrine from Matsue, especially if you’d rather base yourself in a larger city with more food and hotel options.
Why Visit Matsue?
Matsue is well worth visiting if you like historic cities with a slower pace. It has one of Japan’s few remaining original castles, a moat, old streets, awesome samurai history, lakeside views and a quieter atmosphere than the more famous historic cities.
It doesn’t feel like tourist-heavy Japan. Instead, Matsue gives you castles, shrines, tea, soba, water views and old neighbourhoods without the rush.
For us, it was one of the many enjoyable stops on the San-In Line.
Where to Stay in Matsue
We stayed at Matsue New Urban Hotel, which worked well for our two-night stay. The hotel was walking distance from Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station and also close enough to walk to Matsue Castle, which made the location much better than we first expected.
It wasn’t near to the JR Matsue Station, so when we left the city we needed to take a bus back to the main station. Even so, we were glad we stayed in this area because it felt more appealing for actually enjoying Matsue.
The hotel also had a tattoo-friendly onsen, which was a big plus for us.
A small bonus of staying near Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station is the public foot spa just outside the station. Bring a small towel if you want to soak your feet after a day of exploring.
Visiting Izumo Taisha from Matsue
Matsue is close enough to Izumo Taisha to use as a base. You can catch the electric train from Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station towards Izumo and continue to Izumotaisha-mae Station with a change along the way.
The train ride itself is part of the experience. When we travelled this route, it felt slow, local and scenic, especially where the line runs near the lake.
One important thing to know: IC cards were not accepted on this train when we travelled, so buy a paper ticket before boarding.
If you’re planning this trip yourself, we’ve written a separate guide covering exactly how to get to Izumo Taisha from Matsue, Izumoshi Station and even Hiroshima, including bus and train options. You can read our full Izumo Taisha transport guide here.
Things to Do in Matsue
Visit Matsue Castle
Matsue Castle is the city’s main historic sight and one of Japan’s few remaining original castles. It’s surrounded by a moat and sits in a lovely area for walking, with old streets and water views nearby.
The castle has a darker, more solid look than some reconstructed castles, which gives it real presence. The detail inside is wonderful, Each floor with it’s solid wooden beams, impecible joinery and and the views keep getting better as you go up. Even if you don’t go inside (shich you absolutely should as you just paid to get in the grounds), the surrounding grounds are worth your time.
Stop at Jozan Inari Shrine
Jozan Inari Shrine is close to Matsue Castle , just head down the path at the rear of the castle and follow the road round. It’s known for its fox statues. It’s a quiet, atmospheric shrine and a good short stop while exploring the castle area. We were the only people there when we visited.
We always enjoy smaller shrines like this because they add texture to a city. Matsue has a nice mix of big sights and small details.
Walk Around Shiomi Nawate
Just outside the castle area, Shiomi Nawate is one of the prettiest streets in Matsue. It has old houses, canals, trees and a quiet historic feel.
This is where Matsue really started to click for us. It feels atmospheric without being overrun, and it pairs perfectly with the castle, former samurai residence and nearby tea shops.
Visit the Former Samurai Residence
The Former Samurai Residence is just outside the castle area on Shiomi Nawate, it gives you a small but interesting look at Matsue’s samurai history. You can walk inside the house and learn all about Samurai history. The gardens are pretty and covered in gravel, so the samurai can hear the footsteps of course!
It’s an easy stop while walking around Shiomi Nawate, and it helps give more context to the old district around the castle.
Have Matcha by the River at Shiomi Cyaho
Near the castle area, Shiomi Cyaho is a lovely place to stop for matcha. It’s actually a souvinir shop, but you can go to the back and sit by the river, order matcha and matcha mochi, and watch the boats pass by.
It’s a simple moment, but exactly the kind of thing that makes Matsue feel special. Don’t fortget to wave at people passing by in the boats.
Visit Gogin Karakoro Museum
The Gogin Karakoro Museum is housed in an old bank, which already makes it more interesting than expected. Downstairs, you can visit the old vault, while upstairs there are handicrafts and local products.
It’s not a huge museum, but it’s a fun and slightly unusual stop between the castle area, coffee and lunch.
Watch Sunset at Shirakata Park
For sunset, head to Shirakata Park by Lake Shinji. Matsue is known for its lakeside views, and this is a peaceful place to slow down at the end of the day.
If the weather is clear, it’s a lovely way to finish your sightseeing before heading out for dinner.
Coffee and Food in Matsue
LITTLE COURT COFFEE
リトルコートコーヒー / LITTLE COURT COFFEE was our favourite coffee stops in Matsue. It’s next to the Kyobashi River, in a nice area for a slow wander.
If you like finding good coffee while travelling like we do, add this one to your map. They have an upstairs room with tatami mats or you can sit outside by the river.
Mingei Sabo Sasaki
One street down from the river is a walking street with shops, cafés and places to eat. On this street, Mingei Sabo Sasaki is a good place to try cold soba noodles. It’s hidden at the back of an antique shop and has lots of interesting knick knacks everywhere. The noodles are delicious and the service is very friendly.
Matsue and the wider region are known for soba, so this felt like the right place to lean into it.
Yakiniku Ginzan Wagyu Karakoro Branch
Yakiniku Ginzan Wagyu Karakoro Branch was a great lunch stop. They had a good-value lunchtime set meal, and it was a fun way to enjoy Japanese BBQ without turning it into a big expensive dinner. Located in the food court behind the Gogin Karakoro Museum.
Outside, look for the Good Fortune Pink Postbox too. It’s silly, cheerful and very easy to photograph.
Oideyasu Ookiniya
Oideyasu Ookiniya was a friendly izakaya where we sat at the bar and watched the chef cook. That kind of setup always makes a meal more memorable. The food was delicious, the chef always had a smile on his face and they had an unlimited drinks package which lasted for an hour, totally worth it!
It had the warm, local feeling we like in Japan: casual, welcoming and not overly polished with super firendly clientele.
How Long Do You Need in Matsue?
We stayed two nights in Matsue, and that felt just right.
With two nights, you can visit Matsue Castle, walk around Shiomi Nawate, see the former samurai residence, stop at Jozan Inari Shrine, have matcha by the river, visit the Gogin Karakoro Museum and enjoy sunset by Lake Shinji.
If you also want to visit Izumo Taisha from Matsue, two nights can still work, but three would give you a more relaxed pace.
Final Thoughts on Matsue
Matsue was one of the easiest stops to enjoy on our western Japan route. It had enough to do without feeling overwhelming, and the area around Matsue Castle, Shiomi Nawate and Lake Shinji gave the city a strong sense of place.
We liked staying near Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station because it put us close to the lake, castle area, coffee shops and restaurants, even if it meant a bus ride back to JR Matsue Station when we left.
For us, Matsue was only a two-night stop, but it became one of the most enjoyable cities on our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.
A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.