The Sendai Travel Guide: Real Japan

Sam Downtown Sendai

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Sendai is one of those places that slowly became important to us. We first went because of friends we met through our Paddington Instagram account, and since 2022 we’ve been back three times. That probably says more than any “top things to do” list could.

It is not classic first-trip Japan in the Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka sense. Sendai is a real working city, with fewer tourists, excellent food, easy transport, and brilliant day trips into the mountains, coast and countryside. You can be looking out over the city from a free viewing platform in the morning, standing inside a giant white Kannon statue in the afternoon, and eating tempura, sushi or yakiniku with locals by evening.

Sendai is also surprisingly easy to reach. From Tokyo, the Shinkansen takes around 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the train, which makes it very doable as part of a wider Japan trip.

Why Visit Sendai?

For us, Sendai is personal. We visit because of our dear friends, ‘Bob and Kevin’, who have been incredibly kind to us and somehow made Sendai feel like home. They treat us like family, although Livia may argue she is treated slightly more like a princess, and they have shown us a side of the city we never would have found alone. With them, we have eaten amazing food at home and in restaurants, learned what is in season, where to go, and when to enjoy it. Very Japanese really: thoughtful, generous, and somehow still everything in moderation.

Even without that connection, though, we think Sendai is one of the best cities in Japan for travellers who want somewhere less touristy and more local.

It is still a city, of course. You are not stepping into a hidden village. But Sendai gives you access to a different kind of Japan. You have proper shopping, great restaurants, easy trains, forest parks, mountain temples, onsen towns, whisky distilleries and the coast all within reach.

It also makes a strong base for day trips. From Sendai, you can visit Matsushima, Yamadera, Sakunami Onsen and Nikka Whisky Miyagikyo Distillery without needing to change hotels every night. See our Day trips from Sendai post

Where We Stayed in and Around Sendai

Hotel Metropolitan Sendai East

Hotel Metropolitan Sendai East is the most convenient place we’ve stayed in Sendai. It is connected to Sendai Station, which makes it ideal if you are arriving by Shinkansen, taking day trips, or just want everything to be easy.

For a first visit, this is probably the simplest option. You are right by trains, shops, restaurants and transport links.

Sendai Royal Park Hotel

Sendai Royal Park Hotel is a very different kind of stay. It is further out of the centre, quieter, and feels more like a relaxed hotel escape than a city base.

This works better if you have already seen central Sendai, have friends locally, or want something calmer. For first-time visitors relying on trains and buses every day, staying near Sendai Station is more practical.

Things to Do in Sendai

Visit Sendai Dai Kannon

Sendai Dai Kannon is one of the most memorable things to see in Sendai. Also known as the White-Robed Colossus, this enormous white Kannon statue stands above the city and can be seen from all over the area.

It is not just something you look at from outside. You can actually go inside.

Admission to the interior was ¥500 when we visited. Inside, the statue is divided into 12 levels, with an elevator taking you up before you walk down through the different floors. There are 108 Buddha statues inside, and the whole experience is stranger, calmer and more impressive than we expected.

To get there from Sendai Station, we took a bus from the west side of the station. Look for services towards the Sendai Dai Kannon area, including routes such as 815, 825 or X910 depending on timing. The stop you want is Sendai Daikannon-mae.

Your route notes:

  • Bus: 910 / S910 towards Izumi Village 4-chome
  • Time: around 39 minutes
  • Stops: around 23
  • Platform: 19 at Sendai Station west side

Check the bus times on the day, because this is not a turn-up-and-go-every-five-minutes route.

Visit Sendai Castle Ruins

Sendai Castle Ruins, also known as Aoba Castle Ruins, are one of the classic Sendai sights.

There is not a full castle here anymore, so do not go expecting a Himeji-style moment. The reason to visit is the view, the history and the statue of Date Masamune overlooking the city.

The easiest way to get close is to take the subway to International Center Station, then walk up from there. It is a good short outing and pairs well with other central Sendai stops.

Go Up to the Free AER Viewing Platform

AER is one of the easiest little wins in Sendai. It is close to Sendai Station, free to visit, and has a viewing area on the 31st floor.

Head towards the office entrance of the AER building and look for the elevators to the top floor. From there, you get views in several directions across the city.

The windows cover the whole viewing area, so reflections can be annoying if you are taking photos. If you want cleaner shots, bring something dark to block reflections around your lens. Even if you only stay for 15 or 20 minutes, it is worth popping up there.

Shop Around PARCO Sendai

PARCO Sendai is an easy place for shopping near the station. If you like cute Japan things, character shops and pop culture bits, it is dangerous in the best way.

We found Mofusand, Pokémon, Gundam and all kinds of things we absolutely did not need but very much wanted.

Visit Sendai Mitsukoshi

Sendai Mitsukoshi is good for department store browsing, especially the basement food floor.

It is a nice place to look for food gifts, sweets and beautifully packaged things to take home. They also had a good range of cookware and porcelain when we visited, including hashi and hashi oki, which are chopsticks and chopstick rests.

The top floor often has specialist food events or temporary exhibitions, so it is worth checking if you are already nearby.

BAPE STORE Sendai

If you are into streetwear, BAPE STORE Sendai is another one for the list. Not essential Sendai sightseeing, obviously, but very much one of those stops Sam was not going to miss. Like all BAPE stores in Japan they will have store exclusives.

Dainohara Forest Park

Dainohara Forest Park is a nice green escape north of the city centre. You can reach it from Asahigaoka Station, making it easy to visit by subway.

It is a good option if you want a slower walk, a break from shops and streets, or just a bit of everyday local Sendai.

Hitachi Systems Hall Sendai

Hitachi Systems Hall Sendai is also near Asahigaoka Station, close to Dainohara Forest Park.

They have regular performances, including concerts by the philharmonic orchestra, and tickets can be surprisingly affordable. If you enjoy live music, it is worth checking what is on while you are in Sendai.

Devellope Hair Salon and Head Massage

Livia also went to Devellope for a haircut and Sam had a head massage, which is apparently still worthwhile even if you are bald.

Google Maps: Devellope Hair Salon

Where to Eat in Sendai

We have been thoroughly spoiled in Sendai because our friends live there. That means we have eaten in places we probably would not have found as easily on our own.

Kappou Tempura Santaro

Kappou Tempura Santaro is an upscale Japanese restaurant and one of the more special meals we had in Sendai.

Japanese name: 割烹 天ぷら 三太郎

Expect proper tempura, beautifully prepared Sendai beef and a more refined meal than your everyday izakaya dinner. The offer sukiyaki or hotpot dining and the staff in kimonos will actually prepare the food for you at the low table kneeling down. It’s here we first tried fugu/Japanese pufferfish (Chefs in Japan must train for three or more years before they get a license to prepare fugu.) expect to pay upwards of ¥10,000 per person.

A quick note on Sendai beef and wagyu grading

Japan’s official wagyu quality grades only go up to A5, Sendai beef is known for being top-tier wagyu, with very high marbling standards, which explains why it can feel even more luxurious than regular A5 beef.

Datemachi Misato

Datemachi Misato is a great izakaya.

Japanese name: だてまち海里

This is exactly the kind of place that makes visiting friends in Japan so good. You get taken somewhere local, relaxed and full of things you probably would not have ordered confidently by yourself the first time. Expect beutifully prepared, high quality seasonal dishes with very friendly service. They also have a great range of sake.

Umai Sushikan Yutorogi Izumi

Umai Sushikan Yutorogi Izumi is a bit out of town, but we really liked it.

Japanese name: うまい鮨勘 ゆとろぎ泉店

It is old-school conveyor belt sushi, but higher quality than the quick budget chains. If you have transport or local friends helping you get there, it is worth adding to the list.Yakiniku Jajamaru Matsumori

Yakiniku Jajamaru Matsumori

Yakiniku Jajamaru Matsumori is our favourite Friday night yakiniku restaurant in Sendai.

Japanese name: 焼肉じゃじゃまる 松森店

It is also a bit far out, but the quality is excellent. The tongue and Sendai beef are especially good, and this is one of those meals that now feels tied to Sendai for us.

How Many Days Do You Need in Sendai?

2 Days

Two days gives you enough time to see central Sendai, visit Sendai Castle Ruins, go up to the AER viewing platform, eat well and maybe fit in Sendai Dai Kannon.

3 Days

Three days is better if you want to add one day trip, such as Matsushima, Yamadera or Nikka Whisky Miyagikyo Distillery.

4+ Days

If you have four days or more, Sendai becomes a really useful base. You can slow down, see the city properly, visit friends if you have them, and take multiple day trips without changing hotels every night.

For us, Sendai is a repeat city. We have been three times since 2022, and we would still go back.

Practical Tips for Visiting Sendai

Stay near Sendai Station if it is your first visit. It makes day trips and transport much easier.

Use the Shinkansen from Tokyo if you are short on time. Sendai is much closer than it looks on a map.

Check bus times carefully for Sendai Dai Kannon. The journey is easy enough, but not every route runs constantly.

Book Nikka Whisky Miyagikyo Distillery ahead if you want a proper tour.

Ask onsen hotels about tattoos before booking. Do not assume, even as a foreign visitor.

Bring a black cloth or dark jacket if you want better photos from the AER viewing platform. It helps reduce window reflections.

Do not treat Sendai like a checklist city. Its real strength is how normal, local and easy it feels.

Final Thoughts on Sendai

Sendai is not the obvious Japan city everyone talks about, and that is exactly why we like it. It feels lived-in rather than staged, practical rather than polished, and local in a way that many first-time Japan routes never quite reach.

We first came because of friends, but we keep going back because Sendai has become one of our favourite bases in Japan. It has food, shopping, quiet parks, strange sights like the giant Kannon, and easy access to places like Matsushima, Yamadera, Sakunami and Nikka Whisky.

If you want a less touristy side of Japan that still has great transport, excellent food and plenty to do nearby, Sendai is absolutely worth adding to your trip.

If you are using Sendai as a base, we’ve also written a separate guide to the best day trips from Sendai, including Matsushima, Yamadera, Nikka Whisky Miyagikyo Distillery and Sakunami Onsen.

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