Last updated: May 2026
Berat is one of those places that feels almost too perfect to be real. White Ottoman houses climb up the hillside, their windows stacked on top of each other, giving the city its famous nickname, the “City of a Thousand Windows.”
We visited in November during the low season, and parts of the old town felt almost completely empty at times. Walking through the quiet cobbled streets in the early mornings and evenings made the city feel even more surreal.
If you’re planning a visit, here’s what to do in Berat and how to make the most of your time there.
Where to stay in Berat
We spent 2 nights in Berat and stay at Maya hostel. Which was located just over the river opposite the old town, which was only a couple of minutes walk away. We stayed in a private room and had a great time, meeting other travelers and the host and owner organized things for us, like a wine tasting and transportation. We can highly recommend this hostel.
What to do in Berat
We spent two nights in Berat which is plenty if you only come to see the historic part of the town. But there’s also treks etc. to do in the nearby area.
Wine tasting
We didn’t know Albanian wine was a thing before we got to Albania, and Berat has some nice wineries nearby which are worth visiting. We went with our hostel to Alptea Winery which was great or you can go with a guide to different wineries in the area.
Berat Castle
As with all castles in Balkans, Berat Castle is perched at the top of the hill, which makes it a steep walk, but definitely worth the effort. It’s a living castle, as in there’s people living in houses inside the castle walls. The castle itself is not there anymore, just some ruins, but it’s still an interesting place to visit. There’s a small entrance fee to pay as a tourist, but I’m not sure if the ticket booth is always open, you might be able to walk in from other directions without having to pay, but it was such a small fee so it doesn’t really matter.
The views from here are amazing, Berat is situated in a mountainous area, which is breathtaking. There’s also an orthodox church on a hill and loads of small alleys and areas to walk through. In a few places there is still parts of the castle left which you can explore.
Old town of Berat
This is what most people come to Berat to see. The small white and black houses on the side of a hill. It is super cute, like something for a fairytale. And a walk inside old town is like going back in time, cobbled small alleys. In the evening it becomes even more like a fairytale with the yellow-ish lights casting a very mystical light on the houses.
Where to eat in Berat
In old town, you have to try Lili’s restaurant. It’s a tiny place with only 3 tables in fall and winter, and 5 during summers. It’s at the back of the owner Lili’s house, where his wife is cooking homemade Albanian food. There is only a few dishes to choose from, but they were all amazing. Lili himself is super friendly and will most likely talk to you for a bit, and after dinner share one or two Raki (local alcohol in balkan) with you as well. We were able to just show up and have lunch, but I do believe you should book in advance, especially during high season.
