Herceg Novi: A Slower Side of Montenegro

by Livia
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Herceg Novi was our first stop in Montenegro. We didn’t know much about the town before arriving. We mainly chose it because it was an easy first stop after Bosnia and meant we wouldn’t have to spend too many hours on a bus.

Compared to what we had experienced in Bosnia, Herceg Novi felt much more touristy. We visited in November, during the off-season, so there were far fewer visitors than in summer and many restaurants and shops had already closed for the winter.

Even so, we enjoyed spending a few days by the sea, wandering through the old town and taking in the views across the bay.

This is our short guide to Herceg Novi, including what to see and where to eat.

Where to stay in Herceg Novi

We stayed in this studio apartment during our 2 nights in Herceg Novi. It was basic, but great value for money and we loved spending time on the sunny terrace.

What to do in Herceg Novi

Relax by the sea

Herceg Novi is very much a seaside town, and most visitors come here to swim, relax by the water or take boat trips around the bay.

We visited in November, so swimming wasn’t really an option. The sea was freezing, but the air was still pleasantly warm. That meant we could spend a few relaxing afternoons by the waterfront, enjoying the sunshine and views without the crowds of the summer season.

Sometimes, doing very little is exactly what a place like Herceg Novi is best for.

Looking over the sea

Walk Around the Old Town and Meet the Cats

As you’ve probably gathered by now, we didn’t do a huge amount while in Herceg Novi. Most of our time was spent relaxing, wandering through the small old town and taking leisurely walks along the seafront.

The town is also home to plenty of cats, which quickly became regular companions on our morning strolls. Sometimes the best way to experience a place is simply to slow down and enjoy its atmosphere, and Herceg Novi was perfect for that.

Morning walks and some cuddling time with the cats

Drink coffee

One thing we always enjoy wherever we travel is finding a good spot for a coffee and watching the world go by.

In Herceg Novi, we had two favourites. Citadela sits right by the water and was wonderfully peaceful when we visited. We imagine it’s much busier during the summer months, but in November it was the perfect place to relax, work for a few hours and enjoy the views across the bay.

Our other favourite was Levant, a small café further along the waterfront. In fact, it wasn’t even on Google Maps until we added it. We stumbled across it during one of our morning walks and ended up returning several times. It was a very local spot with excellent coffee, good value for money and a genuinely friendly owner, making it one of our favourite discoveries in Herceg Novi (I hope this is still the case today).

At Citadela cafe, our office while we were in Herceg Novi

Where to eat in Herceg Novi

As we visited during the off-season, many restaurants had already closed for the winter. There were still plenty of places to eat, although much of the waterfront was geared towards tourists and there seemed to be a pizza restaurant on almost every corner.

We generally tried to avoid the more tourist-oriented spots and instead looked for smaller local restaurants where we could enjoy a more authentic meal.

Stara Kuca

Stara Kuca was our favourite restaurant in Herceg Novi. While many restaurants in town felt quite tourist-focused, this one seemed to attract more locals, which is always a good sign.

During the day they served traditional stews and hearty cooked dishes that were both delicious and very reasonably priced. It’s located in the old town, just off the main square, making it an easy place to stop for lunch while exploring the town.

Cogo (permanently closed)

This was a nice little restaurant by the water with good seafood and lovely views across the bay. It was a bit more expensive than the places we would normally choose, but the quality of the food made it worth considering if you have the budget for it.

Update 2026: It appears that this restaurant has permanently closed since our visit, so you will need to look elsewhere for a seafood meal in Herceg Novi.

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