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Chengdu Travel Guide: The Perfect Introduction to China

by Livia July 3, 2026

written by Livia

Chengdu was our first introduction to China. China had been on our travel wish list for years, but between visa requirements and uncertainty about how difficult it would be to travel there, we kept putting it off. When China introduced visa-free entry for our passports, we finally decided it was time.

Arriving in Chengdu, we were nervous. Immigration took around an hour as officials carefully checked our documents and even called our hotels to confirm our bookings. Nobody smiled, nobody explained what was happening, and we spent the entire time wondering whether we would actually be allowed into the country.

As soon as we cleared customs, our assumptions about China started to unravel. A security guard warned us away from an unofficial taxi driver, and while walking towards the train station two young men approached us with a camera. They asked if they could drive us into the city for free in exchange for filming a short interview for their YouTube channel.

My first instinct was that something felt suspicious. Sam’s first instinct was to jump in the car.

Thankfully, it turned out to be completely genuine. Interviewing foreign visitors is a popular type of content on Chinese social media, and what started as a chance encounter became one of our favourite memories from Chengdu. We ended up spending more time with them during our stay and it completely changed our first impression of China.

Looking back, Chengdu was the perfect introduction to the country. Relaxed, welcoming and full of surprises, it quickly became one of our favourite cities in China.

It was also the least touristy place we visited in China. Compared to Shanghai and even Chongqing, we saw very few foreign visitors during our time there. Most of the people we met were Chinese tourists or locals going about their daily lives. For us, that made the experience feel much more authentic and gave us a glimpse of a side of China that many international visitors never see.

Why Visit Chengdu?

Chengdu is one of the homes of the giant panda, and visiting the pandas is undoubtedly the city’s most famous attraction. It’s well worth doing and one of the highlights of any trip to China.

However, the pandas aren’t the main reason we enjoyed Chengdu so much.

What stood out most to us was the atmosphere and the people. Chengdu felt noticeably more relaxed than the other Chinese cities we visited. We were invited by complete strangers to share food and drinks despite us speaking no Chinese and them speaking very little English. Time and time again people went out of their way to help us, making us feel genuinely welcome.

We loved the mix of old and new. In the same day, you can explore modern shopping districts, visit historic temples and spend hours wandering through traditional neighbourhoods. Despite being a city of more than 20 million people, we were always able to find quieter corners away from the crowds.

One thing that made us smile was how much Chengdu embraces its giant pandas. They aren’t just found at the Chengdu Research Base, but throughout the city. We spotted panda statues, murals, souvenirs and artwork around almost every corner, with the giant panda climbing the side of the IFS shopping centre becoming one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

In the evenings, locals gathered in parks and public squares to dance, play games and socialise. There was a sense of community and everyday life that made Chengdu feel different from what we experienced in Shanghai and Chongqing.

Food is another reason to visit Chengdu. The city is famous for its Sichuan cuisine, from hot pot and mapo tofu to countless street food stalls and local restaurants. Even if you’re not usually a fan of spicy food, trying the local dishes is a big part of the experience.

Chengdu is equally well positioned for exploring the surrounding area. Whether you’re visiting the giant pandas, heading to nearby ancient towns or continuing deeper into Sichuan Province, the city makes a convenient and enjoyable base.

Where to stay in Chengdu

Chengdu offers everything from luxury hotels to budget-friendly guesthouses, but for most visitors, staying around People’s Park, Tianfu Square or Kuanzhai Alley provides the best balance of sightseeing, restaurants and transport. We stayed at The Hidden House (Cheng Du Kuanzhai Alley People’s Park Subway Station Branch), a peaceful boutique hotel tucked away on a quiet street just a 5 to 10-minute walk from People’s Park, Kuanzhai Alley and the nearest metro station. It’s a great hotel to stay in the city, combining a tranquil courtyard setting with an excellent location for exploring the city on foot.

Things to Do in Chengdu

Visit the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding

If there’s one attraction you shouldn’t miss in Chengdu, it’s the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding. Seeing giant pandas was the main reason we travelled to Chengdu, and it completely lived up to our expectations. Alongside the giant pandas, you’ll also have the chance to see the playful red pandas, which were just as entertaining.

Best time to visit: Arrive when the park opens. The pandas are most active during the cooler morning hours before settling down for a long nap. It’s also the least busy time of day. We arrived at opening, and it was still busy, especially by the “famous” panda enclosures and the baby pandas, which we skipped completely due to the queue.

How long to spend there: Allow around 3 to 4 hours to explore the park without rushing.

👉 Read our complete Chengdu Panda Base Guide for everything you need to know, including tickets, transport, opening times, the best route around the park and our top tips for making the most of your visit.

Relax in People’s Park

If you want to experience everyday life in Chengdu, spend a couple of hours exploring People’s Park. We visited on a Saturday and it was full of local families enjoying the weekend together, giving the park a lively and welcoming atmosphere.

The park itself is beautiful, with tree-lined paths, lakes and traditional gardens, but it was the people that made it memorable. As we wandered around, we came across dance performances, groups exercising, musicians, people playing mahjong and friends relaxing over tea. Everywhere we looked, there was something happening.

We’d recommend allowing 1 to 2 hours to explore the park at a relaxed pace. It’s one of the best places in Chengdu to slow down, people-watch and experience the city’s famously laid-back culture.

Visit Wuhou Shrine

Wuhou Shrine was one of our favourite places in Chengdu. Dedicated to the famous strategist Zhuge Liang and the Three Kingdoms period, it’s one of the city’s most important historical sites, but you don’t need to know much about Chinese history to appreciate it.

The entrance was quite busy when we arrived, but as we wandered further into the complex, the crowds quickly disappeared. We found ourselves strolling through peaceful courtyards, beautiful gardens and pathways lined with towering cypress trees. The combination of traditional architecture, colourful red buildings and quiet surroundings made it one of the most relaxing places we visited in Chengdu.

We’d recommend allowing 2 hours to explore the shrine and its gardens. Whether you’re interested in history or simply looking for a beautiful place to escape the city’s busy streets, Wuhou Shrine is well worth adding to your Chengdu itinerary.

Explore Chunxi Road – shopping

For a completely different side of Chengdu, head to Chunxi Road. This is the city’s modern shopping district, filled with huge shopping malls, international brands, restaurants and towering skyscrapers. It’s a great contrast to the historic temples and traditional parks found elsewhere in the city.

Even if shopping isn’t your thing, Chunxi Road is worth visiting for the atmosphere alone. The streets are busy from morning until late at night, with street performers, colourful billboards and plenty of places to stop for food or a coffee.

One of the biggest highlights is the IFS shopping centre, where you’ll find the city’s famous giant panda climbing the side of the building. It’s become one of Chengdu’s most recognisable landmarks and is a popular photo spot. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also visit the rooftop terrace behind the panda for a different perspective.

Wander Around the Guihua Lane Neighbourhood (桂花巷)

Just around the corner from where we stayed, the streets surrounding Guihua Lane became one of our favourite areas to explore in Chengdu. While it isn’t home to any major tourist attractions, it’s the perfect place to wander and experience a quieter, more local side of the city.

We loved walking through the surrounding streets, discovering independent cafés, local restaurants and small shops tucked away between the tree-lined avenues. Compared to the busy shopping district around Chunxi Road, this neighbourhood felt much more relaxed and gave us a glimpse into everyday life in Chengdu.

If you have a couple of spare hours, we’d recommend putting away the map and simply exploring the area at your own pace. Some of our favourite moments in Chengdu came from wandering these streets without any particular destination in mind.

Where to eat in Chengdu

Chengdu is the birthplace of Sichuan cuisine, and after our visit it’s become one of our favourite cuisines in the world. The bold flavours, fragrant spices and famous numbing Sichuan pepper make every meal an experience. While there are countless dishes to try, some of the local specialities we think you shouldn’t miss include Sichuan Hot Pot, Dan Dan Noodles, Mapo Tofu, Kung Pao Chicken, and street snacks such as Tang You Guo Zi, Bo Bo Ji, Bing Fen and Dan Hong Gao. Even if you’re not usually a fan of spicy food, trying the local cuisine is an essential part of visiting Chengdu.

Be prepared for the spice! Sichuan pepper creates a unique tingling, numbing sensation that’s just as memorable as the heat.

Explore Wangping Street

One of our favourite food experiences in Chengdu was spending an evening exploring Wangping Street, one of the city’s best-known snack streets. Rather than wandering on our own, we had a local show us around, introducing us to dishes we almost certainly wouldn’t have ordered ourselves.

We sampled everything from freshly fried Tang You Guo Zi (sweet fried dough balls) and Dan Hong Gao (egg cakes) to Bing Fen (a refreshing herbal jelly dessert with brown sugar), cold noodles and cold jelly, traditional tea drinks, and sticky rice desserts served with rice wine and brown sugar. One of our stops was Simei Benben Chicken, where we tried Bo Bo Ji, a Chengdu speciality of cold skewers served in a spicy, aromatic broth. It wasn’t our favourite bite of the evening, but that’s part of travelling. You won’t love every local dish, and trying Chengdu’s famous specialities was an experience we wouldn’t have wanted to miss. Every stop offered something different, giving us a fantastic introduction to the flavours that make Chengdu one of China’s great food cities.

Explore the Yulin Neighbourhood

If you’re looking to venture beyond the main tourist sights, head to Yulin. This lively neighbourhood is one of Chengdu’s best food districts, packed with traditional Sichuan restaurants, hot pot, barbecue, cafés and late-night eateries. It was the same guy who gave us a lift from the airport when we arrived who later took us here, introducing us to one of his favourite neighbourhoods. We ended up having one of our favourite meals in all of China at a tiny dumpling restaurant, but despite our best efforts, we’ve never managed to find its name again. Sometimes the places without a name on your map become the ones you remember most.

How Many Days Do You Need in Chengdu?

We spent 3 nights in Chengdu, which gave us enough time to visit the city’s highlights, including the Giant Panda Base, People’s Park, Wuhou Shrine and several of Chengdu’s fantastic food districts. We could easily have stayed longer. Chengdu has a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere, incredible food and plenty of attractions both in the city and nearby, making it somewhere that’s easy to slow down and enjoy.

2 Days

If you’re short on time, two days is enough to see the Giant Panda Base and explore Chengdu’s historic centre, including People’s Park, Kuanzhai Alley and a few of the city’s famous food streets.

3 Days

We think 3 days is the sweet spot for most visitors. It gives you enough time to see the main attractions, enjoy Chengdu’s incredible food scene, and experience the city’s relaxed atmosphere without feeling like you’re constantly on the move.

4+ Days

If you have four days or more, there’s plenty to keep you busy. We would have loved to spend a day exploring Dujiangyan, visit the Dujiangyan Panda Base, and check out Dongjiao Memory, Chengdu’s creative arts and cultural district. With extra time, Chengdu also makes an excellent base for exploring more of Sichuan Province, whether you’re taking day trips or heading further afield to places like Mount Qingcheng, Leshan or Jiuzhaigou.

Practical Tips for Visiting Chengdu

Getting Around Chengdu

Getting around Chengdu is affordable and relatively straightforward. We mostly walked, caught local buses and used Didi, but the city also has a metro system.

Metro

Chengdu has an extensive metro network that connects most of the city’s major attractions. We didn’t end up needing it during our stay, but it’s widely regarded as one of the easiest and most convenient ways to get around the city, especially for longer distances.

Bus

We used the local buses several times during our stay. They took a little more planning than using Didi, but were inexpensive and a good way to get around. We set up a Chengdu Transport Card in Alipay, which allowed us to simply scan our phone on the bus.

Didi

For longer journeys or when we wanted the easiest option, we used Didi, China’s equivalent of Uber. It was affordable, reliable and simple to book through the Alipay or WeChat app.

Walking

Many of Chengdu’s attractions are close together, making the city enjoyable to explore on foot. We especially enjoyed wandering around People’s Park, Kuanzhai Alley, Wangping Street and the quieter streets around our hotel.

Best Time to Visit Chengdu

We visited Chengdu in September and found it hot and humid, although it certainly didn’t stop us from enjoying the city. If you’re planning to spend a lot of time exploring on foot, spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November)generally offer the most comfortable temperatures. That said, Chengdu is a year-round destination, with each season offering a different experience.

Internet, Payments and Apps

China is largely cashless, and Alipay and WeChat quickly became one of the most useful apps on our trip. Along with paying in shops and restaurants, you can also set up a local transport card for buses and the metro, allowing you to simply scan your phone when travelling instead of buying individual tickets. This worked seamlessly across several cities we visited in China.

Our hotel offered free Wi-Fi, but without a VPN we still couldn’t access many of the websites and apps we normally use. We used an eSIM with built-in access to blocked services, which meant we could browse as normal throughout our trip.

We also recommend downloading Didi for taxis and Google Translate (or your preferred translation app) before you arrive. For a full breakdown of the apps we found most useful, including maps, payments, transport and VPNs, read our complete guide to the best apps for travelling in China.

Final Thoughts on Visiting Chengdu

Chengdu was our first stop in China, and we couldn’t have asked for a better introduction to the country. We arrived expecting giant pandas, spicy food and a culture very different from our own, but what stayed with us most was the warmth of the people. Everywhere we went, people were welcoming, curious and happy to help, making us feel at home from the very beginning.

Of the three cities we visited in China, Chengdu ended up being our favourite. We loved its relaxed atmosphere, incredible Sichuan cuisine and the way modern city life blends seamlessly with peaceful parks, historic temples and traditional neighbourhoods. Despite being one of China’s largest cities, it never felt overwhelming.

We only spent three nights here, but left wishing we’d planned a longer stay. Next time, we’ll definitely use Chengdu as a base to explore more of Sichuan Province, and we wouldn’t hesitate to recommend adding it to any China itinerary.

July 3, 2026 0 comments

Our 3-Month Balkans Itinerary: 93 Days by Bus Through Southeast Europe

by Livia June 13, 2026

written by Livia

Between 30 September 2018 and 1 January 2019, we spent 93 days travelling through the Balkans.

Starting in Croatia and finishing in Serbia, we crossed six countries using almost entirely buses and public transport. Along the way we explored historic cities, mountain towns, lakeside villages and some of the most interesting places we have visited anywhere in Europe.

Before this trip, the Balkans were still largely unknown to us. We had heard plenty about Croatia, knew a little about the region’s history and expected a few logistical challenges along the way. What we found instead was a region filled with welcoming people, excellent food, fascinating history and destinations that felt refreshingly authentic.

Three months turned out to be the perfect amount of time. It allowed us to travel slowly, stay longer in places we enjoyed and experience much more than the typical highlights.

This itinerary follows the exact route we travelled between Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, North Macedonia and Serbia.

Our Balkan Route at a Glance

Country	Destinations	Days
Croatia	Pula, Zagreb	5
Bosnia and Herzegovina	Banja Luka, Pliva village, Jajce, Travnik, Sarajevo, Mostar, Trebinje	31
Montenegro	Herceg Novi, Kotor	4
Albania	Shkodër, Tirana, Berat, Gjirokastër, Korçë	17
North Macedonia	Ohrid, Skopje	12
Serbia	Niš, Belgrade, Novi Sad, Subotica	24

How Long Do You Need for This Balkan Itinerary?

We completed this route in 93 days, travelling at a fairly relaxed pace.

If you’re short on time, the itinerary could be reduced to 4-6 weeks by shortening stays in Sarajevo, Tirana, Ohrid and Skopje.

However, one of the things we enjoyed most about this trip was travelling slowly and spending longer in destinations that surprised us.

Croatia: Roman Ruins and a Capital City

Our Balkan adventure began in Croatia. We started in Pula, a coastal city on the Istrian Peninsula that is best known for its remarkably well-preserved Roman amphitheatre. Compared to Croatia’s more famous destinations further south, Pula felt relaxed and easy to explore. We spent our time wandering through the old town, exploring Roman history and enjoying a slower pace before beginning our journey through the Balkans.

From Pula, we travelled by bus to Zagreb. The journey took just over five hours and gave us our first taste of long-distance bus travel in the region.

Zagreb proved to be a pleasant surprise. While many visitors head straight for Croatia’s coastline, the capital has plenty to offer, including lively cafés, historic streets and a more local atmosphere than many of the country’s tourist hotspots.

After a few days in Zagreb, we boarded another bus and crossed our first international border into Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Read next:
– What to Do in Pula
– Zagreb Travel Guide

Bosnia and Herzegovina: The Country That Surprised Us Most

If there was one country that completely exceeded our expectations, it was Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Originally we planned to spend a few weeks here. Instead, we spent more than a month exploring different parts of the country and left wishing we had even more time.

Our first stop was Banja Luka. Compared to many European cities, it felt wonderfully local. There were few tourists, plenty of riverside cafés and a relaxed atmosphere that immediately made us slow down.

From there we headed towards the Pliva Lakes, one of the most peaceful places we visited during the entire trip. Spending several nights here allowed us to enjoy the area beyond the quick day trips that most visitors make.

Nearby Jajce quickly became another highlight. While most people know it for the famous waterfall in the centre of town, there is much more to explore. The old town, fortress and surrounding countryside make it worth staying longer than most itineraries suggest.

Travnik was another pleasant surprise. Sitting beneath a hilltop fortress, the town offered beautiful views, Ottoman history and some excellent local food.

After several smaller destinations, we arrived in Sarajevo.

We ended up spending almost two weeks in the Bosnian capital. Sarajevo is one of the most fascinating cities we have visited anywhere in Europe. The mix of cultures, religions and architectural styles creates an atmosphere that feels completely unique. We spent our days wandering through Baščaršija, drinking Bosnian coffee and learning more about the city’s complex history.

From Sarajevo we continued to Mostar. Although famous for its iconic bridge, we found that the city became much more enjoyable in the evenings after many of the day-trippers had left.

Our final stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina was Trebinje. Located close to the Montenegrin border, the town has a distinctly Mediterranean feel and proved to be one of our favourite smaller destinations in the country.

Looking back, Bosnia and Herzegovina remains one of our favourite countries in Europe.

Read next:

Walking the Pliva River in BosniaHerzegovina — Pliva river

Amazing views from up top of Stari Grad Castle — Pliva river

Montenegro: Bay Views and Medieval Streets

From Trebinje we crossed into Montenegro.

Our first stop was Herceg Novi, a coastal town sitting at the entrance to the Bay of Kotor. Compared to Kotor, it felt more relaxed and less crowded, making it a pleasant place to spend a few days.

We then continued to Kotor, one of the most famous destinations in the Balkans.

There is no denying that Kotor is beautiful. Surrounded by dramatic mountains and sitting beside the bay, it offers some of the most spectacular scenery in the region. We spent our time wandering through the medieval old town and climbing up to the fortress for the famous views.

While Montenegro wasn’t our favourite country during this trip, Kotor is still a destination we would happily recommend to anyone travelling through the Balkans.

Read next:

Albania: Easier Than We Expected

Albania was one of the countries we were most curious about before arriving.

At the time, we had heard plenty of stories about difficult transport and challenging travel conditions. In reality, we found Albania surprisingly easy to travel through.

We entered the country via Shkodër, a relaxed city that makes an excellent introduction to Albania.

From there we travelled south to Tirana, where we spent a full week. The capital felt energetic, colourful and constantly evolving. It was also a welcome place to slow down after several weeks of moving around.

Next came Berat, famous for its white Ottoman houses climbing the hillside. It remains one of the most photogenic towns we visited anywhere in the Balkans.

Gjirokastër quickly became another favourite. The steep cobbled streets, traditional stone houses and impressive fortress give the town a completely different character from anywhere else in Albania.

Our final Albanian destination was Korçë. Often overlooked by international visitors, we loved its atmosphere, local food and authentic feel.

By the time we left Albania, it had become one of the countries we recommended most often to other travellers.

Read next:

North Macedonia: Home to One of Our Favourite Places

After Albania, we crossed into North Macedonia.

Our first stop was Ohrid, a destination that remains one of our favourites from the entire trip.

Set on the shores of Lake Ohrid, the town combines beautiful scenery, historic churches and a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. We spent a week here and could easily have stayed longer.

Ohrid was one of those rare places where doing very little felt completely justified.

From Ohrid we travelled to Skopje.

The capital is unlike any city we have visited before or since. Filled with enormous statues, grand monuments and a fascinating mix of architectural styles, it quickly became one of the most memorable capitals in Europe.

Whether you love it or hate it, Skopje is impossible to forget.

Read next:

Serbia: The Final Chapter

The final country on our route was Serbia.

We started in Niš, one of Europe’s oldest cities and a place filled with history. Although often overlooked by international visitors, we found it a rewarding stop.

Next came Belgrade.

As the largest city on this itinerary, Belgrade felt energetic, chaotic and full of life. Between the food, nightlife and historic sights, there was plenty to keep us busy.

After Belgrade we travelled north to Novi Sad. With its attractive old town and impressive Petrovaradin Fortress overlooking the Danube, it quickly became one of our favourite Serbian cities.

Our final destination was Subotica.

We arrived during the festive season and spent an afternoon exploring the colourful architecture and Christmas market before unfortunately becoming quite ill. While we didn’t get to see as much of the city as we had hoped, we still enjoyed the brief time we spent there.

On 1 January 2019, we left Serbia and brought our three-month Balkan journey to an end.

Read next:

Can You Travel the Balkans Without a Car?

Absolutely. One of the biggest surprises of this trip was how easy it was to travel through the Balkans using public transport.

Over the course of 93 days, we crossed six countries almost entirely by bus. Most tickets were purchased locally, many were bought just a day before departure and some were even purchased on the same day.

The buses weren’t always luxurious. Toilets on board were rare, luggage often came with a small additional fee and English wasn’t always widely spoken at bus stations. However, we rarely encountered any serious problems.

Border crossings were generally straightforward and most destinations were connected by regular bus services.

For budget-conscious travellers, travelling by bus remains one of the best ways to explore the region.

Beautiful views over the mountains from the bus window — Your average bus stop in the Balkans

Final Thoughts

The Balkans quickly became one of our favourite regions in Europe.

Over three months, we explored Ottoman old towns, Austro-Hungarian cities, mountain villages, lakeside communities and bustling capitals. We drank countless cups of Bosnian coffee, crossed borders we previously knew very little about and discovered destinations that far exceeded our expectations.

Bosnia and Herzegovina surprised us the most.

Ohrid became one of our favourite places in Europe.

Albania proved far easier to travel than we expected.

And throughout the entire trip, travelling by bus allowed us to experience the region at a slower and more rewarding pace.

Even after 93 days, we left with a long list of places we still wanted to visit. That, perhaps, is the best recommendation we can give.

June 13, 2026 0 comments

Serbia

Subotica: Serbia’s Most Beautiful Surprise

by Livia June 13, 2026

written by Livia

Updated June 2026, visited December 2018

Our final stop in Serbia was Subotica, a city close to the Hungarian border that felt completely different from anywhere else we visited during our Balkan trip.

We arrived during the festive season, with the Christmas market still taking place in the city centre. On our first afternoon we wandered around town and were immediately struck by the colourful architecture and elegant buildings. After travelling through much of the Balkans, Subotica felt surprisingly Central European, with strong Hungarian influences visible throughout the city.

Unfortunately, both of us became quite sick shortly after arriving. As a result, we spent far less time exploring than we had planned, including spending New Year’s Eve in bed instead of celebrating.

Even though we only had a short time to properly experience the city, Subotica still left a lasting impression on us and remains one of the most beautiful places we visited in Serbia.

This is our short guide to Subotica.

Admire the Architecture

The reason to visit Subotica is the architecture.

Unlike Belgrade or Novi Sad, Subotica feels much more Central European than Balkan. The city has strong Hungarian influences, and many of the buildings are beautiful examples of Art Nouveau architecture.

Simply walking around the city centre was one of our favourite activities. Colourful façades, decorative details and elegant public buildings can be found throughout the old town, making it a fantastic place for photographers and architecture lovers.

Almost every street seemed to reveal another beautiful building.

Explore the City Centre

Subotica’s centre is compact and easy to explore on foot.

The main square is surrounded by some of the city’s most impressive buildings and serves as the heart of local life. Even during our short time in the city, we enjoyed wandering through the streets, admiring the architecture and taking in the atmosphere.

Compared to the larger cities we had visited earlier in the trip, Subotica felt calm, relaxed and easy to navigate.

A Different Side of Serbia

What surprised us most about Subotica was how different it felt from the rest of Serbia.

The architecture, culture and atmosphere felt noticeably influenced by neighbouring Hungary. In many ways, it felt more like a Central European city than a Balkan one.

That contrast made it one of the most memorable stops on our journey through the region.

Final Thoughts

We only got to experience a small part of Subotica before illness put our plans on hold, but what we did see left us wanting to return one day.

The beautiful architecture, relaxed atmosphere and Central European character made it one of the most distinctive places we visited in Serbia. If you’re travelling between Serbia and Hungary, it’s well worth spending a day or two here.

For us, Subotica was an unexpected surprise and a memorable final stop before crossing into Hungary and continuing our travels.

June 13, 2026 0 comments

Serbia

A Short Guide to Novi Sad

by Livia June 13, 2026

written by Livia

After spending over two weeks in Belgrade, we headed north to Novi Sad, Serbia’s second-largest city. Located on the banks of the Danube, Novi Sad offers a more relaxed atmosphere than the capital and makes for an enjoyable stop while travelling through northern Serbia.

We only spent a few days here, but enjoyed exploring the old town, visiting Petrovaradin Fortress and discovering some great cafés and restaurants along the way.

This is our short guide to Novi Sad.

Visit Petrovaradin Fortress

Petrovaradin Fortress is Novi Sad’s most famous landmark and definitely worth a visit. Perched above the Danube, it offers fantastic views across the river and over the city.

We visited during winter, when the fortress was quiet and easy to explore. The grounds are large enough to spend a couple of hours wandering around, and there are plenty of viewpoints where you can stop and take in the scenery.

Today the fortress is best known as the home of the EXIT Festival, but even outside festival season it’s one of the highlights of Novi Sad.

Explore the Old Town

Novi Sad’s old town is compact, walkable and easy to explore in a day.

The city centre is filled with cafés, restaurants, churches and attractive squares, making it a pleasant place to wander around without any particular destination in mind. We spent much of our time simply walking through the centre, stopping for coffee and enjoying the slower pace of life.

Compared to Belgrade, Novi Sad felt quieter and more laid-back, making it a nice change of pace after the Serbian capital.

Where to Eat in Novi Sad

Loft Downtown, Coffee & Food Bar

Loft Downtown is a great café in Novi Sad. Located in the heart of the city, it’s a great place to stop for coffee, breakfast or a light lunch while exploring the old town.

The atmosphere is modern and relaxed, making it easy to spend an hour or two watching the world go by.

Restoran Kafanica

For traditional Serbian food, we can recommend Restoran Kafanica.

The restaurant serves generous portions of local dishes in a welcoming setting and was one of our favourite meals in Novi Sad. If you’re looking to try Serbian cuisine before leaving the country, this is a great place to do it.

Final Thoughts

While Novi Sad may not have the energy or size of Belgrade, we really enjoyed our time here. The combination of a relaxed city centre, good food and impressive fortress makes it a worthwhile stop while travelling through Serbia.

For us, Novi Sad was a pleasant place to slow down for a few days before continuing our journey north.

June 13, 2026 0 comments

Serbia

Belgrade: Our Favourite City in Serbia

by Livia June 13, 2026

written by Livia

Updated June 2026. Originally visited in December 2018.

Belgrade ended up being one of our favourite stops during our travels through the Balkans. We originally planned to stay for a couple of weeks and quickly found ourselves settling into a comfortable routine of cafés, walks, good food and exploring different neighbourhoods.

We visited in December and even experienced a snowstorm while we were there, before celebrating Christmas with visiting family in the Serbian capital. The combination of lively streets, historic architecture, excellent food and welcoming atmosphere made it a city we genuinely enjoyed spending time in.

Belgrade’s food scene deserves its own article. If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations, have a look at our guide to where to eat in Belgrade.

Where to stay in Belgrade

Belgrade is a large city, but most visitors will probably want to stay somewhere close to the city centre. We found that being within walking distance of Knez Mihailova, Dorćol and Belgrade Fortress made it easy to explore much of the city without relying on public transport.

If you’re planning to stay for a few days, we’d recommend looking for accommodation in the city centre or nearby neighbourhoods such as Dorćol, Savamala or Vračar. Each area has its own character and gives easy access to restaurants, cafés and many of Belgrade’s main attractions.

We booked our accommodation through Booking.com, where you’ll find plenty of options throughout Belgrade, from budget apartments to boutique hotels.

Explore Belgrade’s Different Neighbourhoods

One of the things we enjoyed most about Belgrade was simply wandering around its different districts.

Knez Mihailova, the city’s main pedestrian street, quickly became one of our favourite places for a walk. Lined with shops, cafés and historic buildings, it acts as the heart of the city centre and connects many of Belgrade’s major attractions.

We also spent plenty of time in Skadarlija, Belgrade’s bohemian quarter and Dorćol, a neighbourhood filled with cafés, bars, restaurants and creative spaces. It felt slightly more relaxed than the city centre and quickly became one of our favourite parts of Belgrade.

For a completely different side of the city, we crossed the river to Novi Beograd. The wide boulevards, large apartment blocks and socialist-era architecture create a very different atmosphere. While there, we made a point of seeing the famous Genex Tower, one of the most iconic examples of Yugoslav brutalist architecture.

Visit Belgrade Fortress

No visit to Belgrade is complete without spending some time at Belgrade Fortress.

Located where the Sava and Danube rivers meet, the fortress offers fantastic views across the city and is one of the most important historical sites in Serbia. The surrounding park is also a pleasant place for a walk, especially on a clear winter day.

Temple of Saint Sava

The Temple of Saint Sava is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world and is impossible to miss when visiting Belgrade.

The building dominates the skyline and is impressive both inside and out. Even if you’re not particularly interested in religious sites, it’s worth visiting simply to appreciate the scale of the architecture.

House of Flowers

One of the more interesting places we visited was the House of Flowers, the mausoleum of former Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito.

Whether you’re interested in Yugoslav history or not, the museum provides a fascinating glimpse into a period that shaped much of the Balkans. It also helps explain some of the history and politics that continue to influence the region today.

Markets, Cafés and Everyday Life

We always enjoy visiting local markets when travelling, and Kalenić Market was one of our favourite places in Belgrade. It’s a lively market where locals shop for fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese and other produce.

Belgrade also has a fantastic café culture. Some of our favourite places included Pržionica D59B, Café Amelie, Hotel Moskva and Zaokret. We often found ourselves stopping for coffee between sightseeing, especially on cold winter days.

For an evening drink, Blaznavac was one of our favourite bars, with a fun atmosphere and plenty of character.

A Strange Visit to BIGZ

One of the more memorable places we explored was BIGZ, a huge former publishing house that had partially transformed into an artists’ and creative space.

At the time of our visit, much of the building felt semi-abandoned. There was security at the entrance and we were told before arriving that visitors are not supposed to enter, but we walked in confidently and somehow found ourselves exploring the building without any problems.

It was one of those slightly surreal travel experiences that you remember long after the more famous attractions have faded from memory.

Final Thoughts

Belgrade isn’t the prettiest city in Europe, but it has an energy that’s difficult to describe until you’ve spent some time there.

The mix of history, café culture, food, architecture and neighbourhood life makes it a city that’s easy to settle into. What started as a two-week stop became one of the highlights of our Balkan trip, and it’s a city we’d happily return to one day.

June 13, 2026 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina Travel Itineraries

Bosnia and Herzegovina Itinerary: Our 1 Month Route by Bus

by Livia May 31, 2026

written by Livia

Bosnia and Herzegovina ended up being one of our favourite countries during our Balkan trip in 2018. We entered from Croatia expecting to spend a week or so exploring the country, but ended up staying for a month.

What we found was a country full of friendly people, incredible food, strong coffee culture, beautiful scenery and fascinating history. From lively cities to quiet riverside villages, Bosnia offered a perfect mix of culture and slow travel.

Our Bosnia and Herzegovina route

We travelled almost entirely by bus, with a couple of taxi journeys in more rural areas. This route took us from northern Bosnia all the way south to the border with Montenegro.

Our route looked like this:
Banja Luka → Pliva → Jajce → Travnik → Sarajevo → Mostar → Trebinje

Banja Luka (3 Nights)

Banja Luka was our first stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina after arriving by bus from Croatia.

At first glance, it might not seem like an obvious tourist destination. There are relatively few major attractions compared to Sarajevo or Mostar, but we ended up loving the city. It felt relaxed, affordable and incredibly liveable, with a strong café culture and some of the best food we had anywhere in Bosnia.

If you enjoy people-watching from a café terrace and discovering places that aren’t overrun with tourists, Banja Luka is well worth a stop.

Read our full Banka Luka guide here.

Pliva River (5 Nights)

Our stay on the Pliva River was one of the highlights of the entire trip. We spent five nights in a small riverside village, slowing down and enjoying nature. The days were spent walking along the river, visiting the source of the water and chatting with locals.

We stayed at the Vacation Home Pliva, Brđani and had the best experience, the family running this place are lovely, and it’s situated just on the river.

One memorable afternoon we stumbled across a group making homemade rakija. Several shots later, we eventually made it to the river source before having to pass them again on the way back.

If you’re looking for a quieter side of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a few days by the Pliva River is hard to beat, read about our full experience here.

Jajce (3 Nights)

Jajce is best known for its dramatic waterfall located right in the centre of town.

While the waterfall is certainly worth seeing, what we enjoyed most was the relaxed atmosphere and charming old town. We spent our time wandering the streets, drinking coffee and enjoying the slower pace of life.

We stayed at Jajce Youth Hostel, which was a great base for exploring the town on foot.

Jajce is a great place to spend a few days and works well as a stop between northern Bosnia and Sarajevo.

Read our full Jajce travel guide here.

Travnik (3 Nights)

Travnik quickly became one of our favourite towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The town is home to an impressive fortress, beautiful Ottoman architecture and what many locals claim are the best ćevapi in the country.

We loved its relaxed atmosphere and found it to be one of the easiest places in Bosnia to simply slow down and enjoy everyday life.

We stayed at Apartment Aid, a 2 bedroom apartment in the center of Travnik. It was the perfect location as well as a very friendly and helpful host.

Read our full Travnik guide here.

Sarajevo (13 Nights)

Sarajevo was by far our longest stop. After moving around quite a bit, we decided to slow down and spend nearly two weeks in the capital. It turned out to be one of the best decisions we made.

Sarajevo has enough history, culture, cafés and restaurants to keep you busy for much longer than a few days. We spent our time exploring different neighbourhoods, learning about the city’s complex history and eating our way through countless local restaurants.

If you’re visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo deserves several days at a minimum, read our full Sarajevo guide here.

Mostar (2 Nights)

Mostar is one of the country’s most famous destinations and home to the iconic Stari Most bridge.

The old town is beautiful, if a little more touristy than other places we visited. Even so, it is easy to understand why people love it. The historic centre, river views and excellent food make it well worth visiting.

Two nights was enough for us to explore the town and enjoy its atmosphere, although it could easily be done in less time if you’re short on days. That said, we would still recommend spending at least one night in Mostar to experience the old town after the day-trippers have left.

We stayed at Nina hostel, which was a great base for exploring the city and within easy walking distance of the main sights.

Read our full Mostar guide here.

Trebinje (2 Nights)

Trebinje was our final stop before crossing into Montenegro.

Often overlooked by travellers, we found it to be a charming town with a lovely old centre, excellent restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere. It also felt noticeably different from the rest of Bosnia, partly due to its proximity to both Croatia and Montenegro.

Travelling Bosnia by Bus

We travelled almost entirely by bus and found it to be an easy and affordable way to get around.

The routes between major cities were straightforward, tickets were inexpensive and the scenery along the way was often spectacular. While having a car would provide more flexibility for exploring remote areas, we never felt limited travelling independently by public transport.

For this route, we don’t think a car is necessary.

Is Bosnia and Herzegovina Safe?

We felt extremely safe throughout our month in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

People were friendly, welcoming and often went out of their way to help. Like anywhere, it’s worth using common sense, but we never experienced any problems while travelling around the country by bus or on foot.

In fact, one of the things we remember most about Bosnia is the warmth and hospitality of the people we met.

What We’d Change

Honestly, not very much.

This route worked incredibly well and gave us a great mix of cities, small towns and nature. If we were to do it again, we’d probably explore some of the national parks and more remote parts of the country.

We’d also happily return to the Pliva River for another few days of doing very little.

Final Thoughts

Bosnia and Herzegovina became one of our favourite countries in the Balkans.

We came expecting beautiful scenery and interesting history, but what really stood out were the people, the food and the slower pace of life. It’s a country that still feels authentic, affordable and surprisingly under-visited.

If you’re planning a trip through the Balkans, don’t rush through Bosnia and Herzegovina. Give it time, order another coffee and stay a little longer than you planned.

May 31, 2026 0 comments

Albania Travel Itineraries

Our 2 Week Albania Itinerary

by Livia May 24, 2026

written by Livia

We spent two weeks travelling through Albania back in 2018 and absolutely loved it. Albania was part of our two month Balkans trip, and we entered the country by bus from Montenegro, which is also how we travelled around once there. The bus journeys themselves often became part of the adventure, winding through mountains, small villages and some incredibly beautiful scenery.

Albania surprised us quite a bit. It felt noticeably different from the other Balkan countries we visited, with its own unique atmosphere, beautiful mountain scenery and an incredible number of picturesque towns scattered around the country.

We travelled in November during the low season, so instead of visiting the coast we focused more on inland cities and mountain towns. This also meant there were far fewer tourists around, although in some places a number of restaurants, cafés and shops were closed for the season.

Our Albania Route

During our time in Albania we travelled entirely by bus, entering from Montenegro and continuing east through the country before crossing into North Macedonia.

Our route looked like this:
Shkodër → Tirana → Berat → Gjirokastër → Korçë

Shkodër (2 Nights)

Shkodër was our first stop in Albania after crossing the border from Montenegro, and it immediately felt different. The city had a much more relaxed atmosphere, colourful streets and a strong café culture. We spent our days wandering around the small city centre, drinking coffee, visiting the fort and soaking up the slower pace of life.

We stayed at Rose Garden Hotel, which was within walking distance of the city centre and made a great base for exploring the city on foot.

Read our full Shkodër guide here.

Tirana (7 nights)

We originally only planned to stay a few nights in Tirana, but after travelling quite quickly through the Balkans we decided to slow down and ended up staying for a full week instead. It turned out to be a good decision.

The longer we stayed, the more the city grew on us. We spent most of our time exploring different neighbourhoods, trying cafés and restaurants, and simply wandering around the city. Tirana felt lively, modern and full of energy, while still feeling local and slightly chaotic in parts.

Read our full Tirana guide here.

Berat (2 nights)

Berat is one of the prettiest towns we visited in Albania. The white Ottoman houses climbing up the hillside almost looked unreal, especially during the quieter mornings and evenings in low season when the streets were nearly empty.

We spent most of our time wandering around the old town, exploring the castle area and enjoying the mountain views surrounding the city. One of the things we loved most about Berat was simply slowing down and taking in the atmosphere.

We stayed at Maya Hostel, which was a great base for exploring the old town on foot.

Read our full Berat guide here.

Gjirokastër (2 Nights)

Gjirokastër ended up being our favourite town in Albania. Visiting during the low season meant the old cobbled streets were almost completely empty at times, which made the whole place feel even more atmospheric.

We stayed in the old town itself and loved waking up to the mountain views every morning. With its stone houses, steep streets and huge castle overlooking the valley, Gjirokastër genuinely felt like something out of a fairytale.

Read our full Gjirokastër guide here.

Korçë (2 Nights)

Korçë was our final stop in Albania before continuing on to North Macedonia. Sitting higher up in the mountains, it felt noticeably colder than the rest of the country, especially in November.

We loved the slower pace here, along with the city’s strong food and café culture. Most of our time was spent wandering around the old bazaar area, eating BBQ and enjoying the cosy atmosphere of the city.

The bus journey from Gjirokastër to Korçë was also one of the most scenic parts of our Albania trip, winding through mountains and small villages along the way.

Read our full Korçë guide here.

Travelling Albania by Bus

We travelled entirely around Albania by bus and overall found it surprisingly easy, even if things sometimes felt slightly chaotic. Albania doesn’t always have the most organised bus system, and schedules can be flexible, but we still managed to get around the country without any problems.

One of the best parts of travelling Albania by bus was the scenery along the way. Many of the routes passed through mountains, valleys and small villages, and the journeys themselves often became part of the experience.

In some places larger buses operated between cities, while on other routes smaller minibuses, known as furgons, were more common. Bus stations could sometimes feel a little confusing at first, but locals were generally very helpful whenever we needed assistance finding the right bus.

Travelling by bus was also incredibly affordable and gave us a lot of flexibility while moving around the country. If you don’t want to rent a car, Albania is definitely still possible to explore independently.

You can read more about traveling by bus in Albania here.

Is Albania Safe to Travel?

We personally felt very safe travelling around Albania, including while using local buses and walking around cities and towns independently. People were generally friendly, helpful and welcoming throughout our trip.

Like anywhere, it’s still important to use common sense, especially in larger cities or around transport hubs. The only place that felt a little uncomfortable to us was the abandoned train station area in Shkodra as there were people living there and didn’t necessarily want outsiders visiting, but aside from that we generally found Albania to feel relaxed and safe to travel through independently.

Travelling during the low season also meant places were quieter and less crowded, which added to the slower atmosphere we experienced around the country.

What we’d change

Honestly, not very much. Albania ended up becoming one of our favourite countries in the Balkans and we loved travelling through it.

If we did the trip again, we would probably add more time in general and even though we loved the low season, we would like to visit during summer as well and go to the Albanian coast. We would have also liked to add more hikes in the itinerary.

Travelling entirely by bus worked well for us, but having a car for at least part of the trip would definitely make it easier to explore some of the smaller villages and more remote areas of the country.

Final Thoughts

Albania ended up being one of the biggest surprises of our Balkans trip. Before visiting, we mainly associated the country with mountains and beaches, but what stood out most to us were the beautiful old towns, café culture and the relaxed atmosphere we found while travelling through the country.

Travelling during the low season gave us a very different experience from the busy summer months. In many places we had quiet cobbled streets almost entirely to ourselves, which made towns like Berat and Gjirokastër feel even more atmospheric.

We would absolutely return to Albania again, especially to explore more of the mountains and coastline. This route is perfect for travellers who enjoy slower travel, beautiful scenery, café culture and travelling independently without needing a car.

May 24, 2026 0 comments

Serbia

Where We Ate in Belgrade

by Livia January 15, 2020

written by Livia

Latest updated: June 2026

We spent just over two weeks in Belgrade and absolutely loved the city. One of the main reasons was the food.

Belgrade has a surprisingly diverse food scene. You’ll find everything from traditional Serbian restaurants and street food stalls to excellent Asian cuisine and more upscale European dining. No matter your budget or taste, there’s plenty to choose from.

It’s also a great city to explore on foot, stopping for coffee, pastries or a meal as you go. During our stay, we tried quite a few places, and these were some of our favourites.

Here’s our guide to where to eat in Belgrade.

Where to Eat Traditional Serbian Food in Belgrade

Zavičaj

This was one of our favourite places in Belgrade for traditional Serbian food. Located in the Savamala district, close to the bus station, it’s easy to reach and conveniently situated near many of the city’s attractions.

The atmosphere is lively and welcoming, and the food was consistently delicious. One detail we particularly liked was that the beer was served in traditional clay mugs, which added a nice local touch to the experience.

It may be a little more touristy than some other restaurants in Belgrade, but the quality of the food was excellent and the prices remained very reasonable.

Znak Pitanja (Question Mark)

This is said to be the oldest restaurant in Belgrade and is well worth a visit for the atmosphere alone. While it attracts plenty of tourists, we still had a very enjoyable meal here.

The setting feels historic and full of character, making it a great place to experience a piece of Belgrade’s past while enjoying traditional Serbian cuisine.

Prices were a little higher than at Zavičaj, but still reasonable by Western European standards. It’s also conveniently located just off the main pedestrian street, making it an easy stop while exploring the city centre.

Tri Šešira

This is one of the more famous restaurants in Skadarlija and, as a result, quite touristy. Despite that, we enjoyed the food and thought it was a good place to try some traditional Serbian dishes.

One thing to keep in mind is that several nearby restaurants have very similar names, so double-check that you’re heading to the right one before sitting down. It’s a popular spot for a reason, and while it’s firmly on the tourist trail, we still had a good meal here.

Where to Find Great Asian Food in Belgrade

中华食府 X.WANG’S KITCHEN

This was our favourite restaurant in Belgrade, and we lost count of how many times we ate here during our stay.

Run by a Chinese family, the restaurant specialises in authentic Sichuan cuisine and serves some of the best Chinese food we’ve had outside of China. Our favourite dish was the Sichuan beef, a generous portion that’s easily large enough to share. Add a bowl of rice and a couple of side dishes, and you have a fantastic meal.

It’s located in the Savamala district, making it easy to reach from most parts of the city. If you enjoy Chinese food, this would be one of our top recommendations in Belgrade.

Wok Republic

This is technically a fast-food restaurant, but it has a comfortable seating area and a fun atmosphere that makes it a great place to stop for a quick meal.

If you’re looking for affordable and tasty noodles in Belgrade, this is an excellent choice. The portions are generous, the prices are low and the food is packed with flavour.

We enjoyed it so much that we ended up coming back several times during our stay.

The cool Asian street style interior at Wok Republic

MOON Sushi & Fusion Food

Our server told us that this was the first sushi restaurant in Belgrade, and whether that’s true or not, it’s certainly one of the city’s more established Asian restaurants.

The menu features a mix of sushi and Asian fusion dishes, all served in a stylish setting by friendly and attentive staff.

Prices are on the higher side compared to many restaurants in Belgrade, but if you’re craving good sushi or a break from Balkan cuisine, it’s definitely worth considering.

Great Western Food in Belgrade

Homa Bistrot

Located close to Saint Sava Church, this restaurant serves a mix of Serbian and Western European dishes, making it a good choice if you’re dining with people who have different tastes.

Everything we tried was well prepared and full of flavour, and the quality of the food was consistently high.

It was particularly popular with local families, especially at weekends. If you’re planning to visit on a Saturday, it’s worth making a reservation or arriving outside the busy lunch hours.

Fat Boys Food co.

If you’re craving a good burger, this is the place to go. The burgers aren’t the cheapest in Belgrade, but they’re definitely worth the price. Portions are huge, and you’ll almost certainly leave feeling full.

The restaurant is located in the Dorćol neighbourhood, one of our favourite parts of Belgrade. The area is full of interesting cafés, bars and independent shops, making it a great place to spend a few hours before or after your meal.

January 15, 2020 0 comments

Serbia

Niš: Our Unexpected Introduction to Serbia

by Livia January 13, 2020

written by Livia

Latest updated: June 2026

Our first stop in Serbia was Niš, a city in the south of the country. To be honest, it wasn’t our favourite stop on this trip. Compared to some of the other places we visited in the Balkans, Niš felt quite industrial and a little rough around the edges. The bus journey there took us through a number of grey, post-industrial towns, which probably didn’t help our first impression.

That said, Niš has an interesting history and a handful of sights that make it worth considering if you’re passing through southern Serbia.

We spent three nights in Niš, which felt like enough time to see the main attractions and get a feel for the city. We didn’t do a huge amount while we were there, partly because we visited in December when the weather was cold and grey. Perhaps on a sunny spring day we would have seen the city a little differently.

Where to stay in Niš

We stayed at NAR Royalton Accommodation, a comfortable place within walking distance of the city centre. It worked well as a base for exploring Niš for a few days and was a good option for our 3 nights in Niš.

What to do in Niš

Old Fortress

One of the nicest areas in Niš is the old fortress. Today, it’s less of a fortress and more of a large park surrounded by historic walls. Inside you’ll find walking paths, a few historical monuments and plenty of open space to relax.

It’s a pleasant place for a stroll, especially on Sundays when many locals come here to walk, meet friends and enjoy the outdoors. There are also a few cafés within the grounds and even a small petting zoo.

Cost: Free of charge.

Visit the Local Market

Next to the entrance of the fortress you’ll find a local market, mostly selling fresh fruit and vegetables. It’s a lively place to wander around and get a glimpse of everyday life in Niš.

Alongside the produce stalls, there are also a handful of vendors selling souvenirs, local products and handmade crafts, making it a worthwhile stop while exploring this part of the city.

Visit the Crveni Krst/Red Cross Concentration Camp

Niš has a dark and complex history, and one of the most important places to learn about it is the former Red Cross Concentration Camp (Crveni Krst).

Visiting the camp is not an easy experience, but it is an important one. Before arriving in Niš, we had no idea that there had been concentration camps in Serbia during World War II. This camp was used by the occupying Nazi forces to imprison thousands of people, including Serbs, Jews, Roma and members of the resistance movement. Many of those held here never left alive.

Today, the site serves as a memorial and museum, helping visitors understand a difficult chapter of both Serbian and European history. While it was one of the hardest places we visited in Niš, it was also one of the most meaningful.

Cost: Small entrance fee. (Check current prices before visiting.)

A very emotional, but important place to visit

Skull Tower

Another reminder of Niš’s turbulent past is the Skull Tower (Ćele Kula). Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit, so we didn’t get the chance to see it for ourselves.

The tower is one of the city’s most famous landmarks and has a rather grim history. Following a battle against the Ottoman Empire in 1809, the skulls of Serbian rebels were built into a stone tower as a warning to others who might resist Ottoman rule.

Today, the remaining skulls are preserved inside a chapel, and the site serves as an important historical monument. Even though we missed it, it would be high on our list for a future visit to Niš.

Visit Kazandžijsko Sokače/Tinkers Alley

One of the nicest areas in Niš is Kazandžijsko Sokače, also known as Tinkers Alley. This small historic street is one of the few parts of the city that survived the destruction of the Second World War and gives a glimpse of what Niš once looked like.

Today, the street is lined with cafés, bars and restaurants, making it a pleasant place to stop for a drink or a meal. While it’s not a large attraction, it has far more character than many other parts of the city and is worth a short visit while exploring the centre of Niš.

Where to eat in Niš

Dve krigle pivnica (Permanently closed)

This place was highly recommended by our host, so naturally we had to give it a try. It was a lively local bar serving beer and chicken wings sold by weight, a concept we hadn’t come across before. The atmosphere was fun, the prices were low and it was always busy with locals, making it a great spot for a casual night out.

Update 2026: It appears that this bar has permanently closed since our visit. It’s a shame, as it was one of our favourite places in Niš, but hopefully another local favourite has taken its place.

Galija

Galija is a traditional Serbian restaurant serving generous portions of local favourites. It felt a little more tourist-oriented than some of the places we usually seek out, but the food was tasty, the portions were huge and it’s a good option if you’d like to try some classic Serbian dishes during your stay in Niš.

January 13, 2020 0 comments

Macedonia

Skopje: Bizarre, Fascinating and Worth a Visit

by Livia August 16, 2019

written by Livia

Our second and final stop in North Macedonia was Skopje. We didn’t quite know what to expect and were surprised by this eclectic capital. Skopje seems to have a bit of everything: a historic Old Bazaar, brutalist architecture, and a city centre packed with statues and monuments. And when we say packed, we mean they’re everywhere.

We spent a week in Skopje, renting an Airbnb within walking distance of the centre, and really enjoyed our time there. It was also the cheapest capital city we visited during our journey through the Balkans, making it an easy place to slow down and explore at our own pace.

What to do in Skopje

Stari Grad

The Old Bazaar is one of the main attractions in Skopje and is well worth a wander. While it wasn’t our favourite old town in the Balkans, it felt more authentic and lived-in than many others we visited.

Instead of being packed with souvenir shops and tourist restaurants, much of the area is still used by locals. You’ll find cafés, bakeries and traditional restaurants alongside historic buildings and narrow streets. This may be partly because North Macedonia still receives far fewer tourists than some of its Balkan neighbours.

Go on a brutalist architecture walk

Skopje is also known for its abundance of brutalist architecture. If you’re interested in architecture, especially the bold and often unusual designs that emerged during the Yugoslav era, you’ll find plenty to explore here.

Many of these concrete structures stand in stark contrast to the city’s newer monuments and historic areas, adding to Skopje’s eclectic character. A few notable examples include:

Undergraduate Dormitories ”Goce Delcev”: student housing building:

Post office: another good example of brutalist architecture in Skopje

Beyond the well-known landmarks, we recommend simply wandering through some of the residential neighbourhoods outside the city centre. This is where you’ll find many of Skopje’s remaining examples of brutalist and socialist-era architecture.

Much of the city’s historic modernist character has already been replaced or hidden by newer developments, and many of these buildings are gradually disappearing. If you’re interested in this architectural style, now is a good time to see it before more of it is gone.

Street art

Sam is always on the lookout for street art, and Skopje turned out to be a surprisingly good city for it. While you can find murals and graffiti scattered throughout the city, there are a few areas that stand out.

One of our favourites was the area around the Autonomous Cultural and Social Center. It can be a little difficult to find, but you don’t need to locate the centre itself. Simply explore the surrounding blocks and you’ll come across plenty of interesting artwork.

We also found some great pieces between the arena and City Park, as well as along the riverside walkway, where long stretches of walls are covered in colourful murals and graffiti. If you enjoy urban art, it’s worth setting aside some time to wander and see what you discover.

Street art by the Autonomous Cultural and Social Center

Old building filled with Graffiti by the stadium

Go to an Abandoned factory

We have always been drawn to abandoned places. There’s something fascinating about seeing how nature, time and people slowly reclaim a space once it has been left behind.

A graffiti shop owner near our apartment recommended an abandoned factory on the outskirts of the city as a good place to see street art, so one afternoon we decided to check it out for ourselves.

The factory grounds were easy to access and covered a surprisingly large area. Several buildings had already partially collapsed, while others still looked relatively intact. We chose not to go inside any of them, as it was impossible to know how structurally safe they were, but even exploring the exterior was well worth the visit. The combination of decaying industrial buildings and colourful graffiti made for an interesting contrast.

It was a really interesting place to explore and offered plenty of unique photo opportunities. There’s something about abandoned places that we find strangely beautiful. The mix of decay, history and nature slowly taking over creates an atmosphere that’s hard to describe.

We weren’t completely alone, though. A man was also living on the factory grounds and, as he didn’t speak English, we couldn’t really communicate with him. We later learned from the owner of the graffiti shop that a few people were known to stay there and generally kept to themselves.

At the time, however, we had no idea who he was or what his intentions were, so we kept our distance. When he picked up an axe and started walking around the site, we decided that our visit had come to a natural end and headed back towards the city.

A quick word of caution: abandoned buildings are never completely safe. There was broken glass everywhere, unstable structures and buildings in various states of collapse throughout the site.

We chose to stay outside and did not enter any of the buildings. Access rules can also change over time, and entering abandoned properties may be illegal or considered trespassing. If you decide to visit, use common sense and do so at your own risk.

Count all the statues

As we mentioned earlier, the city centre is absolutely packed with statues. They are impossible to miss and are one of the things that make Skopje feel so unusual.

Most of these monuments were added as part of the Skopje 2014 project, a large redevelopment initiative launched by the Macedonian government. The aim was to give the city centre a more classical appearance through the construction of new museums, government buildings and monuments. While the new buildings are certainly noticeable, it is the sheer number of statues that most visitors remember.

The project proved highly controversial and divided public opinion. Some people welcomed the redevelopment and felt it gave the city a stronger identity, while others argued that the money could have been spent on more pressing priorities. Originally budgeted at around €80 million, the final cost reportedly grew to well over €500 million, adding to the debate surrounding the project.

The exact number of statues is unclear, but there are hundreds of them scattered throughout the city centre. In many ways, they have become a tourist attraction in their own right.

Walking through central Skopje is a surreal experience. Grand classical-style buildings, many of them relatively new, stand alongside countless statues of historical figures, national heroes and the occasional monument that simply leaves you scratching your head. To add to the atmosphere, there are even two pirate ship-style buildings floating in the river.

Whether you love it or hate it, it’s certainly memorable. For us, the city centre was fascinating to see, but we found ourselves preferring other parts of Skopje, particularly neighbourhoods beyond the main tourist area.

Where to eat in Skopje

We cooked a lot ourselves in Skopje, especially dinners. So we didn’t try that many restaurants, but we have a couple to recommend.

Kafana Gostilnica Ka

We went here a couple of times. A great little BBQ place serving traditional food for very affordable prices. This is out of the city centre (still central) so it’s a local place.

Turist Grill

Despite the name, this is a good go-to in the old town for affordable ćevapi.

August 16, 2019 0 comments

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