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Matsue was one of the easiest cities to enjoy on our 23 day slow train route through western Japan. After smaller stops like Masuda and Izumo, Matsue felt a little more substantial, but still calm, historic and very manageable.

We stayed two nights, which gave us enough time to visit Matsue Castle, walk through the old samurai district, stop at a fox shrine, eat cold soba, find GREAT coffee, enjoy a great lunchtime BBQ deal and watch the sunset over Lake Shinji.

It’s also close enough to Izumo Taisha that you can visit the shrine from Matsue, especially if you’d rather base yourself in a larger city with more food and hotel options.

Why Visit Matsue?

Matsue is well worth visiting if you like historic cities with a slower pace. It has one of Japan’s few remaining original castles, a moat, old streets, awesome samurai history, lakeside views and a quieter atmosphere than the more famous historic cities.

It doesn’t feel like tourist-heavy Japan. Instead, Matsue gives you castles, shrines, tea, soba, water views and old neighbourhoods without the rush.

For us, it was one of the many enjoyable stops on the San-In Line.

Where to Stay in Matsue

We stayed at Matsue New Urban Hotel, which worked well for our two-night stay. The hotel was walking distance from Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station and also close enough to walk to Matsue Castle, which made the location much better than we first expected.

It wasn’t near to the JR Matsue Station, so when we left the city we needed to take a bus back to the main station. Even so, we were glad we stayed in this area because it felt more appealing for actually enjoying Matsue.

The hotel also had a tattoo-friendly onsen, which was a big plus for us.

A small bonus of staying near Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station is the public foot spa just outside the station. Bring a small towel if you want to soak your feet after a day of exploring.

Visiting Izumo Taisha from Matsue

Matsue is close enough to Izumo Taisha to use as a base. You can catch the electric train from Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station towards Izumo and continue to Izumotaisha-mae Station with a change along the way.

The train ride itself is part of the experience. When we travelled this route, it felt slow, local and scenic, especially where the line runs near the lake.

One important thing to know: IC cards were not accepted on this train when we travelled, so buy a paper ticket before boarding.

If you’re planning this trip yourself, we’ve written a separate guide covering exactly how to get to Izumo Taisha from Matsue, Izumoshi Station and even Hiroshima, including bus and train options. You can read our full Izumo Taisha transport guide here.

Things to Do in Matsue

Visit Matsue Castle

Matsue Castle is the city’s main historic sight and one of Japan’s few remaining original castles. It’s surrounded by a moat and sits in a lovely area for walking, with old streets and water views nearby.

The castle has a darker, more solid look than some reconstructed castles, which gives it real presence. The detail inside is wonderful, Each floor with it’s solid wooden beams, impecible joinery and and the views keep getting better as you go up. Even if you don’t go inside (shich you absolutely should as you just paid to get in the grounds), the surrounding grounds are worth your time.

Stop at Jozan Inari Shrine

Jozan Inari Shrine is close to Matsue Castle , just head down the path at the rear of the castle and follow the road round. It’s known for its fox statues. It’s a quiet, atmospheric shrine and a good short stop while exploring the castle area. We were the only people there when we visited.

We always enjoy smaller shrines like this because they add texture to a city. Matsue has a nice mix of big sights and small details.

Walk Around Shiomi Nawate

Just outside the castle area, Shiomi Nawate is one of the prettiest streets in Matsue. It has old houses, canals, trees and a quiet historic feel.

This is where Matsue really started to click for us. It feels atmospheric without being overrun, and it pairs perfectly with the castle, former samurai residence and nearby tea shops.

Visit the Former Samurai Residence

The Former Samurai Residence is just outside the castle area on Shiomi Nawate, it gives you a small but interesting look at Matsue’s samurai history. You can walk inside the house and learn all about Samurai history. The gardens are pretty and covered in gravel, so the samurai can hear the footsteps of course!

It’s an easy stop while walking around Shiomi Nawate, and it helps give more context to the old district around the castle.

Have Matcha by the River at Shiomi Cyaho

Near the castle area, Shiomi Cyaho is a lovely place to stop for matcha. It’s actually a souvinir shop, but you can go to the back and sit by the river, order matcha and matcha mochi, and watch the boats pass by.

It’s a simple moment, but exactly the kind of thing that makes Matsue feel special. Don’t fortget to wave at people passing by in the boats.

Visit Gogin Karakoro Museum

The Gogin Karakoro Museum is housed in an old bank, which already makes it more interesting than expected. Downstairs, you can visit the old vault, while upstairs there are handicrafts and local products.

It’s not a huge museum, but it’s a fun and slightly unusual stop between the castle area, coffee and lunch.

Watch Sunset at Shirakata Park

For sunset, head to Shirakata Park by Lake Shinji. Matsue is known for its lakeside views, and this is a peaceful place to slow down at the end of the day.

If the weather is clear, it’s a lovely way to finish your sightseeing before heading out for dinner.

Coffee and Food in Matsue

LITTLE COURT COFFEE

リトルコートコーヒー / LITTLE COURT COFFEE was our favourite coffee stops in Matsue. It’s next to the Kyobashi River, in a nice area for a slow wander.

If you like finding good coffee while travelling like we do, add this one to your map. They have an upstairs room with tatami mats or you can sit outside by the river.

Mingei Sabo Sasaki

One street down from the river is a walking street with shops, cafés and places to eat. On this street, Mingei Sabo Sasaki is a good place to try cold soba noodles. It’s hidden at the back of an antique shop and has lots of interesting knick knacks everywhere. The noodles are delicious and the service is very friendly.

Matsue and the wider region are known for soba, so this felt like the right place to lean into it.

Yakiniku Ginzan Wagyu Karakoro Branch

Yakiniku Ginzan Wagyu Karakoro Branch was a great lunch stop. They had a good-value lunchtime set meal, and it was a fun way to enjoy Japanese BBQ without turning it into a big expensive dinner. Located in the food court behind the Gogin Karakoro Museum.

Outside, look for the Good Fortune Pink Postbox too. It’s silly, cheerful and very easy to photograph.

Oideyasu Ookiniya

Oideyasu Ookiniya was a friendly izakaya where we sat at the bar and watched the chef cook. That kind of setup always makes a meal more memorable. The food was delicious, the chef always had a smile on his face and they had an unlimited drinks package which lasted for an hour, totally worth it!

It had the warm, local feeling we like in Japan: casual, welcoming and not overly polished with super firendly clientele.

How Long Do You Need in Matsue?

We stayed two nights in Matsue, and that felt just right.

With two nights, you can visit Matsue Castle, walk around Shiomi Nawate, see the former samurai residence, stop at Jozan Inari Shrine, have matcha by the river, visit the Gogin Karakoro Museum and enjoy sunset by Lake Shinji.

If you also want to visit Izumo Taisha from Matsue, two nights can still work, but three would give you a more relaxed pace.

Final Thoughts on Matsue

Matsue was one of the easiest stops to enjoy on our western Japan route. It had enough to do without feeling overwhelming, and the area around Matsue Castle, Shiomi Nawate and Lake Shinji gave the city a strong sense of place.

We liked staying near Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station because it put us close to the lake, castle area, coffee shops and restaurants, even if it meant a bus ride back to JR Matsue Station when we left.

For us, Matsue was only a two-night stop, but it became one of the most enjoyable cities on our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.

Save the pin

Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine was one of the most important cultural stops on our 23 day slow regional train journey through western Japan. We only stayed one night in Izumo, but that was enough time to visit the shrine, wander the approach street and continue onwards to Matsue the next morning.

Izumo Taisha, also known as Izumo Ōyashiro, is one of Japan’s most important Shinto shrines. It is often considered one of the oldest shrines in Japan, and the official shrine access page lists its location in Izumo, Shimane Prefecture.

For us, the appeal was not just its history. It was also the atmosphere. Compared with the famous shrine and temple stops in Kyoto, Nara or Tokyo, Izumo Taisha felt calmer and far less crowded with international tourists. It still had plenty of Japanese visitors, but it never felt like the big tourist trail.

Why Visit Izumo Taisha?

Izumo Taisha is an incredible shrine and one of the most meaningful places we visited in Japan. The grounds are large, peaceful and atmospheric, with forested paths, smaller shrine buildings and the famous huge shimenawa sacred rope.

This is not a hidden place, but it does feel different from Japan’s more obvious tourist-heavy shrines. It has weight, history and space to breathe.

If you are travelling through western Japan, Shimane Prefecture, Matsue or Izumo, we think it is absolutely worth making time for.

Where We Stayed in Izumo

We arrived at JR Izumoshi Station and stayed at Super Hotel Izumo Ekimae.

The hotel was very close to the south entrance of the station, which made it easy for a one-night stop. It also had a free two-hour drinks bar in the evening, including a surprisingly good range of sake, and a very good breakfast the next morning.

For visiting Izumo Taisha, staying near Izumoshi Station worked well because both the bus and train options are nearby.

How to Get to Izumo Taisha from JR Izumoshi Station

The easiest way to get from JR Izumoshi Station to Izumo Taisha is by bus.

From JR Izumoshi Station, take the Ichibata Bus bound for Izumo Taisha / Hinomisaki. The official Izumo Taisha English access page says to take the bus from bus stop number 1 and get off at Seimon-mae, which takes about 25 minutes.

This is the simplest option because it gets you close to the shrine entrance without needing to change trains.

Useful Bus Pass for Matsue and Izumo

If you’re visiting both Matsue and Izumo, it’s worth checking the local 3-day bus pass. It allows you to ride the Ichibata Bus and Matsue City Bus freely for three days, which can be useful if you’re using buses around Matsue and travelling out to Izumo Taisha.

You can find the English PDF here: https://matsue-bus.jp/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/English.pdf

At the time of our visit, the pass was available from places including the Matsue City Traffic Office and Twin Leaves Hotel Izumo.

You’ll need your foreign passport, and if you have an ICOCA card, bring it with you because it can make the pass cheaper.

Can You Get to Izumo Taisha by Train?

Yes, you can also get there by train using the Ichibata Electric Railway.

From Dentetsu-Izumoshi Station, take the Ichibata Electric Railway and change at Kawato Station for the train to Izumotaisha-mae Station. From there, it is a short walk to the shrine approach.

This route is slightly more involved than the bus, but the local trains are part of the charm in this region. If you enjoy small regional railways, it’s a nice way to travel.

One important note: on our trip, IC cards were not accepted on the Ichibata Electric Railway, so we bought a paper ticket at the office.

How to Get to Izumo Taisha from Matsue

If you are staying in Matsue, you can reach Izumo Taisha by using the Ichibata Electric Railway from Matsue Shinjiko-Onsen Station.

The railway connects Matsue and Izumo, and you can travel towards Izumotaisha-mae with a change along the way. It’s not the fastest transport in Japan, but it is scenic, relaxed and very fitting for this part of the country.

We travelled the opposite direction the next day, from Izumo towards Matsue, and the ride along the lake was delightful.

How to Get to Izumo Taisha from Hiroshima

You can also visit Izumo from Hiroshima by long-distance bus.

The official Izumo Taisha access page lists Hiroshima Bus Center to JR Izumo City Station as around 3 hours. From JR Izumo City Station, you then take the Ichibata Bus to Izumo Taisha, which takes about 25 minutes.

That makes Izumo Taisha possible from Hiroshima, though we’d personally rather stay overnight if you have the time. It gives the shrine more breathing room and avoids turning the day into a transport mission.

Walking the Approach to Izumo Taisha

After getting off the bus, make your way towards the Izumo Taisha Grand Gate of Seidamari, then follow the shrine approach through the third torii and onwards to the Bronze Torii, the fourth torii. When you leave the shrine area, look back down the main street and you’ll see the large torii at Uga Bridge in the distance.

The street has places to eat, drink and buy souvenirs, so don’t rush straight in and out. It’s a pleasant shrine town atmosphere and worth giving a little time.

Coffee Near Izumo Taisha

We stopped at Taisha Coffee, which had a cosy atmosphere, friendly staff and good coffee. The upstairs seating was especially nice, overlooking the street below.

It made a perfect pause after visiting the shrine before heading back towards Izumo city.

Eating Back Near Izumoshi Station

Back in Izumo city, we ate at Sukiya Izumoshi Station South.

It wasn’t fancy, but Sukiya is a Japanese staple: quick, cheap, reliable and very useful after a travel day. Sometimes that’s exactly what you need.

How Long Do You Need for Izumo Taisha?

You can visit Izumo Taisha as a day trip from Matsue or as part of a longer journey through western Japan.

We stayed one night in Izumo, and that felt right for us. It gave us enough time to arrive by regional train, visit the shrine, stay close to the station and continue to Matsue the next morning without rushing.

If you are coming from Hiroshima, we’d consider staying overnight rather than trying to squeeze everything into one long day.

Is Izumo Taisha Worth Visiting?

Yes, Izumo Taisha is absolutely worth visiting.

It is one of Japan’s most important shrines, but it doesn’t feel overrun in the way some famous shrine and temple areas can. For us, that made it even more special.

If you want a meaningful cultural stop in Japan without the overwhelming tourist crowds, Izumo Taisha is a brilliant place to add to a western Japan itinerary.

Izumo is well worth adding as a short stop along the way. We only stayed for one night, but it fitted perfectly into our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.

23 Day Japan Slow Travel Itinerary by Train

A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.

Masuda was one of the most practical stops on our 23 day slow regional train journey through western Japan. It isn’t a famous destination, and it’s not somewhere we’d suggest going far out of your way for, but it worked well as a pause between Mojiko and Izumo.

This was the kind of place where people asked us, “Why Masuda?” and honestly, that was fair. There isn’t a huge list of things to do, but what we found was a quiet, local city with friendly people, a good hotel, a tattoo-friendly onsen, a lovely art museum, simple food and one of the warmest little travel moments of the whole trip.

Masuda was part of our 23 day slow regional train route through western Japan, travelling from Fukuoka across Kyūshū and along the San-Yō and San-In lines towards Tottori and Okayama.

Why Visit Masuda?

Masuda is worth visiting if it fits naturally into your train route. It makes sense as a stop between Shimonoseki, Mojiko, Izumo and Matsue, especially if you’re travelling slowly by regional train and don’t want long travel days.

It is not a polished tourist town, and that’s both the limitation and the charm. We saw no other tourists while we were there, and the city felt very local, very quiet and very ordinary in the best possible way.

If you’re looking for big sights, nightlife or a packed itinerary, Masuda probably isn’t the place. But if you want a useful stop with a few gentle things to do, it can work nicely.

Where to Stay in Masuda

We stayed at Mascos Hotel, which was one of the better hotel choices on this part of the trip. It was modern, comfortable and had an onsen, which made it a very easy place to recover after another regional train day.

The best part for us was that the onsen was tattoo-friendly. The staff understood we were foreign tourists, and tattoos were not an issue, which made the stay much more relaxing.

For a short visit to Masuda, we’d stay here again.

Things to Do in Masuda

Visit Iwami Art Museum

The Iwami Art Museum was our main planned stop in Masuda and a good way to spend part of the day. It had an interesting exhibition, including clothing from the famous Japanese designer Hanae Mori.

It’s not a huge museum, but it was peaceful, well-presented and gave us something worthwhile to do in a city where sightseeing options are limited. If you enjoy museums and slower travel days, it’s worth adding to your Masuda stop.

Visit Ebisu Shrine

Our visit to Ebisu Shrine became one of those unexpected travel memories that we could never have planned properly. Livia met a local woman in the hotel onsen, and after chatting as best they could, she offered to drive us to the shrine because it would have been difficult to reach by public transport.

The shrine sits on a small coastal island and reminded us a little of a mini Mont Saint-Michel, though much smaller and simpler. It’s only accessible at certain times depending on the tide, which made it feel even more special.

The whole thing was incredibly kind, especially as we had only just met her, and she even insisted on buying us McDonald’s on the way back. Too funny, and very memorable.

Where to Eat in Masuda

Takenoya

Takenoya was where we had our first taste of cold soba noodles on this trip. It was simple, local and exactly the kind of meal that suited Masuda.

Cold soba became a bit of a theme for us along this part of Japan, and this was a good introduction.

Kasuri Izakaya

Kasuri was one of those local izakaya experiences where nobody spoke English and the menu was handwritten in Japanese. Google Translate struggled hugely, but we still managed to order, eat and enjoy ourselves.

It wasn’t polished or easy, but it was memorable. Sometimes those are the meals you remember most.

Important Train Ticket Tip for Masuda

One thing you really need to know before arriving in Masuda: the train station does not have an electronic ticket barrier, so you should buy a paper ticket from your departure station.

We learned this the awkward way.

We had tapped in with our ICOCA card earlier in the journey, but when we arrived in Masuda there was nowhere to tap out. The station master quickly realised we were not locals, asked where we were travelling next, and kindly let us through the gate.

A couple of days later, our IC cards had been frozen because the journey had never been completed properly. When we arrived in Izumo, the Masuda station master had already called ahead, explained what had happened, and the staff there helped us calculate the correct fare and fix the cards.

It was all handled with patience, very little English and a bit of Google Translate, but it would have been easier if we had bought a paper ticket in the first place.

How Long Do You Need in Masuda?

One or two nights is enough for Masuda.

We stayed two nights, which gave us time to visit the Iwami Art Museum, use the hotel onsen, eat locally and make the unexpected trip to Ebisu Shrine.

If you are only using Masuda as a route break, one night would also be fine.

Is Masuda Worth Visiting?

Masuda is worth visiting only if it makes sense for your route. We wouldn’t suggest going out of your way for it, and it isn’t one of the best places to visit in Japan if you’re planning a first trip.

But as part of a slow regional train journey through western Japan, it worked well. It gave us a quiet pause, a good hotel, a tattoo-friendly onsen, a couple of local meals and one of the kindest encounters of the whole trip.

Sometimes that’s enough.

If you’re on the San-in Line, Masuda is well worth adding as a relaxed stop along the way. Masuda made a great little stopover point for our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.

23 Day Japan Slow Travel Itinerary by Train

A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.