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Masuda was one of the most practical stops on our 23 day slow regional train journey through western Japan. It isn’t a famous destination, and it’s not somewhere we’d suggest going far out of your way for, but it worked well as a pause between Mojiko and Izumo.
This was the kind of place where people asked us, “Why Masuda?” and honestly, that was fair. There isn’t a huge list of things to do, but what we found was a quiet, local city with friendly people, a good hotel, a tattoo-friendly onsen, a lovely art museum, simple food and one of the warmest little travel moments of the whole trip.
Masuda was part of our 23 day slow regional train route through western Japan, travelling from Fukuoka across Kyūshū and along the San-Yō and San-In lines towards Tottori and Okayama.
Why Visit Masuda?
Masuda is worth visiting if it fits naturally into your train route. It makes sense as a stop between Shimonoseki, Mojiko, Izumo and Matsue, especially if you’re travelling slowly by regional train and don’t want long travel days.
It is not a polished tourist town, and that’s both the limitation and the charm. We saw no other tourists while we were there, and the city felt very local, very quiet and very ordinary in the best possible way.
If you’re looking for big sights, nightlife or a packed itinerary, Masuda probably isn’t the place. But if you want a useful stop with a few gentle things to do, it can work nicely.
Where to Stay in Masuda
We stayed at Mascos Hotel, which was one of the better hotel choices on this part of the trip. It was modern, comfortable and had an onsen, which made it a very easy place to recover after another regional train day.
The best part for us was that the onsen was tattoo-friendly. The staff understood we were foreign tourists, and tattoos were not an issue, which made the stay much more relaxing.
For a short visit to Masuda, we’d stay here again.
Things to Do in Masuda
Visit Iwami Art Museum
The Iwami Art Museum was our main planned stop in Masuda and a good way to spend part of the day. It had an interesting exhibition, including clothing from the famous Japanese designer Hanae Mori.
It’s not a huge museum, but it was peaceful, well-presented and gave us something worthwhile to do in a city where sightseeing options are limited. If you enjoy museums and slower travel days, it’s worth adding to your Masuda stop.
Visit Ebisu Shrine
Our visit to Ebisu Shrine became one of those unexpected travel memories that we could never have planned properly. Livia met a local woman in the hotel onsen, and after chatting as best they could, she offered to drive us to the shrine because it would have been difficult to reach by public transport.
The shrine sits on a small coastal island and reminded us a little of a mini Mont Saint-Michel, though much smaller and simpler. It’s only accessible at certain times depending on the tide, which made it feel even more special.
The whole thing was incredibly kind, especially as we had only just met her, and she even insisted on buying us McDonald’s on the way back. Too funny, and very memorable.
Where to Eat in Masuda
Takenoya
Takenoya was where we had our first taste of cold soba noodles on this trip. It was simple, local and exactly the kind of meal that suited Masuda.
Cold soba became a bit of a theme for us along this part of Japan, and this was a good introduction.
Kasuri Izakaya
Kasuri was one of those local izakaya experiences where nobody spoke English and the menu was handwritten in Japanese. Google Translate struggled hugely, but we still managed to order, eat and enjoy ourselves.
It wasn’t polished or easy, but it was memorable. Sometimes those are the meals you remember most.
Important Train Ticket Tip for Masuda
One thing you really need to know before arriving in Masuda: the train station does not have an electronic ticket barrier, so you should buy a paper ticket from your departure station.
We learned this the awkward way.
We had tapped in with our ICOCA card earlier in the journey, but when we arrived in Masuda there was nowhere to tap out. The station master quickly realised we were not locals, asked where we were travelling next, and kindly let us through the gate.
A couple of days later, our IC cards had been frozen because the journey had never been completed properly. When we arrived in Izumo, the Masuda station master had already called ahead, explained what had happened, and the staff there helped us calculate the correct fare and fix the cards.
It was all handled with patience, very little English and a bit of Google Translate, but it would have been easier if we had bought a paper ticket in the first place.
How Long Do You Need in Masuda?
One or two nights is enough for Masuda.
We stayed two nights, which gave us time to visit the Iwami Art Museum, use the hotel onsen, eat locally and make the unexpected trip to Ebisu Shrine.
If you are only using Masuda as a route break, one night would also be fine.
Is Masuda Worth Visiting?
Masuda is worth visiting only if it makes sense for your route. We wouldn’t suggest going out of your way for it, and it isn’t one of the best places to visit in Japan if you’re planning a first trip.
But as part of a slow regional train journey through western Japan, it worked well. It gave us a quiet pause, a good hotel, a tattoo-friendly onsen, a couple of local meals and one of the kindest encounters of the whole trip.
Sometimes that’s enough.
If you’re on the San-in Line, Masuda is well worth adding as a relaxed stop along the way. Masuda made a great little stopover point for our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.
A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.
