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I design and execute structured, scalable digital ecosystems that integrate SEO, AEO, UX and analytics into commercially focused marketing strategies. I also travel full-time!

NamibiaTravel Itineraries

Our 9-Day Namibia Tour with Chameleon Safaris: An Honest Review

by Sam June 23, 2025
written by Sam

Thinking about joining a Namibia group tour? We spent nine incredible days travelling across the country with Chameleon Safaris on their Canyons, Dunes & Wildlife tour. From the wildlife of Etosha National Park and the towering dunes of Sossusvlei to the abandoned ghost town of Kolmanskop, this tour packed some of Namibia’s most iconic sights into one unforgettable adventure.

We booked the tour because we wanted to experience Namibia without the stress of driving ourselves, and it turned out to be one of the best tours we have ever done.

📌 We booked directly with Chameleon Safaris and we think you should too. We even have a discount code you can use if you want 10% off any of their tours, just use code PADDINGTON10 at checkout.

Where to stay in Windhoek

Before the tour started, we flew from Cape Town to Windhoek and stayed at Chameleon Backpackers. This turned out to be a fantastic choice. The hostel has a relaxed atmosphere, great staff, a swimming pool, bar, regular social events and daily walking tours. It was the perfect place to meet fellow travellers before setting off into the Namibian wilderness.

This place was so great! It’s a wonderful place to meet other travelers, share stories and relax before or after your tour. The have incredible staff who are always ready to help, the organize BBQ nights, quiz nights, they have a great bar and pool. They have daily walking tours in the city , they can do your laundry and even store your bags whilst you go exploring.

Day 1: Windhoek to Etosha National Park

We chose the 9 day Canyons, Dunes & Wildlife Camping & Accommodated Safari An interesting note is that Chameleon Safaris don’t have a minimum number to run each tour, so you might be on your own or within a group. The adventure began with a pickup from Chameleon Backpackers before heading to the Chameleon Safaris offices for a briefing. Over coffee, tea and cake, we met our driver, guide and fellow travellers. For the first section of our tour, we were joined by a lovely retired couple from New Zealand.

After loading up the truck, we began the long journey north towards Etosha National Park. It is roughly 500 kilometres from Windhoek, so there were several stops along the way to stretch our legs and use the bathroom, grab supplies and stock up on snacks and drinks. The scenery gradually became more remote as we headed deeper into Namibia. Even before reaching the national park we were spotting wildlife alongside the road, including giraffes and warthogs.

By late afternoon we arrived at Etosha National Park through Namutoni Gate and immediately started spotting animals. Within a short time we had already seen elephants, giraffes, zebras and various antelope species.

Our accommodation for the night was Halali Resort, operated by Namibia Wildlife Resorts inside the national park. We were pleasantly surprised by the facilities. The rooms were twin-share with private bathrooms, and after a long day on the road it was nice to settle in before dinner which was served buffet style and included grilled game meat, chicken, pasta, salads and fresh bread. Soft drinks were included, while alcoholic drinks could be purchased separately. After dinner, we headed to on-site watering hole to see if we could glimpse any animals, but it was mostly just birds. After that was bed and we were excited for our first full day of safari.

Day 2: Exploring Etosha National Park

We were up before sunrise for one of the highlights of the trip. After breakfast, we climbed aboard an open-sided safari vehicle and headed into Etosha National Park. There is something special about being in the park at sunrise. The air is cool, the light is beautiful and the animals are at their most active.

Our guide was incredible. We quickly realised that safari guides possess a completely different level of eyesight than the rest of us. Animals that looked invisible to us suddenly appeared after a quick point into the distance. Throughout the day we saw lions, elephants, giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, springbok, jackals and countless birds. Whenever a large number of vehicles gathered along the road, it usually meant there was something exciting to see. More often than not, it was worth stopping.

One thing worth mentioning is that Etosha is not technically home to the Big Five, as Cape buffalo are absent from the park. Leopards are also notoriously difficult to spot. Even so, the wildlife viewing was exceptional and far exceeded our expectations.

In the afternoon we left through Anderson Gate and travelled to our next accommodation, Okutala Etosha Lodge. This beautiful lodge felt considerably more luxurious than our previous stop. Along with a lovely pool, comfy beds and a amazing views, it features resident giraffe and a pair of rhinos that wander to the watering hole at dusk. After settling into our room, we enjoyed an excellent à la carte dinner before turning in for the night.

Day 3: Etosha to Swakopmund

Day three was another long travel day, covering roughly 500 kilometres as we crossed Namibia from north to west. We left Etosha after breakfast and headed towards the coastal town of Swakopmund. Along the way we stopped in Outjo, which proved to be a great place to pick up supplies, pastries and snacks for the journey ahead.

The landscape gradually changed as we entered Damaraland. The roads became rougher, the scenery more dramatic and the sense of isolation much stronger.

One of the more interesting stops along the route was meeting members of the Himba and Herero communities. The Himba visit was the most in-depth, giving us an opportunity to learn about traditional lifestyles, housing and culture. Another stop was some roadside craft stalls run by the Herero communities which also offered a chance to support local artisans and purchase some souvenirs.

Eventually the Atlantic Ocean appeared on the horizon. The moment we reached the coast, the temperature dropped noticeably. Namibia’s desert heat quickly gave way to cool sea air, and for the first time on the trip we reached for our fleece jackets.

Before arriving in Swakopmund we stopped at the famous Zeila Shipwreck, one of the most photographed landmarks on the Skeleton Coast. Sitting rusting against the shoreline, it provides a dramatic introduction to this rugged stretch of coastline.

That evening we checked into Hotel A La Mer, a comfortable and modern hotel within walking distance of the town centre.

It was nice to spend some time with cafés, restaurants and a bit of civilisation and dinner was left entirely up to the group. We ended up at Kücki’s Pub, where we enjoyed hearty German food, cold beer and plenty of conversation. Swakopmund has a fascinating German influence and nowhere is that more obvious than in its restaurants and bakeries. Another other great place we found was the Altstadt Restaurant, very informal, great German beer selection and great bar food. There’s so many great places to eat and enjoy a good coffee here. You can also get cash from an ATM (we found FNB was the most reliable and had at the time no fees for foreign cards)

Day 4: Swakopmund to Sesriem

Unlike previous mornings, there was no rush to leave. The hotel provided a buffet breakfast and we had plenty of time to make any last-minute purchases so we visited the supermarket and stocked up on snacks, it was also a great opportunity to have a wander around town, have a coffee and take some photos before heading off into the desert.

As we entered the camping part of our tour, so our group also changed. We said goodbye to our original guide, driver, truck and New Zealand travel companions and met our new driver and guide and truck for the southern half of the journey., also joining us was a solo traveller.

The drive to Sesriem covered approximately 350 kilometres and included several memorable stops. One of the highlights was crossing the Tropic of Capricorn, where we stopped for the obligatory photo at the roadside sign. Further south we reached Solitaire, a tiny settlement famous for McGregor’s Bakery. Their apple pie absolutely lived up to the hype. Fresh, rich and generously sized, it was exactly the kind of treat needed before continuing deeper into the Namib Desert.

By late afternoon we arrived at Sesriem Campsite, located on the edge of the national park. This would be our first proper camping experience of the trip. Everyone helps pitch the tents which is actually a great way to get to know the group and quickly became part of the experience.

Once camp was set up, we headed to Elim Dune for sunset. If you’ve never climbed a sand dune before, prepare yourself. Walking on soft sand is surprisingly exhausting. Every step forward feels like half a step backwards. The effort was totally worth it. Watching the sun set across the red dunes was our first real introduction to the landscapes that make Namibia famous.

After sunset we returned to camp for dinner prepared by our guide before settling into our tents for the night, ready for an extremely early start the next morning.

Day 5: Dune 45, Dead Vlei and Sossusvlei

If there was one day we had been looking forward to more than any other, it was this one.

The alarm went off long before sunrise and there was no time for breakfast. We grabbed a bottle of water, the camera and a museli bar before climbing into the truck in complete darkness. Our destination was Dune 45.

Named simply because it sits 45 kilometres from Sesriem, Dune 45 is one of the most famous sand dunes in Namibia. By the time we arrived, dozens of people were already beginning the climb towards the summit. The climb can take anything from 20 minutes to an hour, but this is depending on your fitness level and how often you stop to admire the view from exhaustion. Walking on soft sand is hard work, but reaching the top just before sunrise is worth every step.

As the sun rose over the Namib Desert, the dunes glowed shades of orange, red and gold. It was one of those moments where photographs simply don’t do it justice.

After climbing back down, we were greeted by our guide, who had somehow magically prepared breakfast while we were up on the dune. Coffee, breakfast and incredible desert scenery. Not a bad way to start the day. Next, we continued deeper into the park towards Sossusvlei. From there, we transferred into a 4×4 shuttle for the final stretch to Dead Vlei.

Dead Vlei is one of the most surreal landscapes we have ever visited. Ancient camel thorn trees stand frozen in time on a bright white clay pan, surrounded by towering red dunes and deep blue skies. The contrast of colours is almost unbelievable.

There are a few ways to approach Dead Vlei. You can take the easy flat walk, climb part of Big Daddy dune before descending into the pan, or tackle the entire climb to the summit of Big Daddy. We chose the middle option, climbing part of the dune before dropping into Dead Vlei. It gave us spectacular views without completely destroying our legs.

We spent a few hours wandering around, taking photographs and simply appreciating how unique the landscape was. It is easy to see why so many professional photographers make the journey here.

After returning to camp, we cooled off in the pool and relaxed with a cold drink before heading out again to visit Sesriem Canyon.

While interesting, the Sesriem Canyon wasn’t nearly as impressive as the dunes and Dead Vlei. It was a pleasant stop, but the desert landscapes remained the true stars of the day. That evening we enjoyed another excellent campfire dinner before sitting around the fire swapping travel stories under a sky full of stars.

Day 6: Sesriem to Klein-Aus Vista

After packing up camp, we set off south towards Klein-Aus Vista. The drive covered around 350 kilometres through increasingly remote landscapes. Namibia has a remarkable ability to make you feel very small. Hour after hour passes with almost nothing visible except mountains, gravel roads and endless horizons.

We expected another night of camping, instead, we were treated to a great suprise.

Rather than tents, we were staying in a cabin tucked into the mountainside at Klein-Aus Vista Desert Horse Campsite.

The cabin was comfortable, secluded and surrounded by beautiful scenery. Nearby stood the rusting remains of an old Hudson car from the 1930s, still peppered with bullet holes from an infamous diamond smuggling shootout. According to local stories, the smugglers still haunt the nearby Ghost Canyon. Whether you believe the ghost stories or not, it certainly added atmosphere to the location.

With a free afternoon ahead of us, we headed out on a walk to the Desert Horse Geoglyph viewpoint. The route winds through rocky terrain and offers fantastic views across the surrounding landscape. The sunset that evening was one of our favourites from the entire trip.

As darkness fell, the Milky Way emerged once again overhead. Namibia consistently delivered some of the clearest night skies we have ever seen.

Day 7: Kolmanskop and Lüderitz

Another early start brought us to one of the most fascinating places in Namibia. Kolmanskop.

If you’ve ever watched the Fallout television series, you may already recognise it. The abandoned town has appeared in countless films, documentaries and photography books. The story behind it is extraordinary.

In 1908, diamonds were discovered in the area, triggering a rush of German settlers who built a thriving desert town complete with a hospital, ballroom, theatre, school, casino, ice factory and even Africa’s first tram system. For a brief period, Kolmanskop was one of the richest settlements in the world.

Then the diamonds began to run out. By the 1920s, residents started leaving and the desert slowly reclaimed everything they had built.

Today, drifting sand fills abandoned homes while peeling wallpaper hangs from crumbling walls. Every room feels like a scene from a post-apocalyptic movie. For photographers, it’s paradise. There is also a guided tour which we enjoyed before spending a few hours exploring the buildings and taking photographs on our own.

From there we continued to Lüderitz, one of Namibia’s more unusual towns. Its colourful German colonial architecture feels completely out of place against the surrounding desert landscape. After lunch by the coast and a quick supermarket stop, we visited Diaz Point, named after Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias, who landed here in 1487, the site contains a replica of the stone cross erected during his voyage.

Strong Atlantic winds and sea spray quickly convinced us it was time to head back inland. That evening we returned to our cabin at Klein-Aus Vista for another peaceful night in the desert.

Day 8: Fish River Canyon and Quiver Tree Forest

This was our longest travel day of the tour. Our destination was the Quiver Tree Forest, but first we made a significant detour to Fish River Canyon.

Often described as the second-largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon, Fish River Canyon is certainly impressive in terms of scale, the viewpoints offer spectacular panoramas stretching far into the distance. However, if we’re being completely honest, this was probably our least favourite stop of the trip, only because of the long detour.

The canyon is viewed from above and, unless you’re visiting during hiking season you cannot enter. you would also most likely need an extra night here to do that. We had a great lunch on the rim overlooking the canyon afterwards we continued back towards the Quiver Tree Forest.

This place felt almost alien. Despite the name, quiver trees are actually giant succulents rather than true trees. Their unusual shapes create one of Namibia’s most distinctive landscapes. Once camp was set up, we spent the evening wandering through the forest taking photographs as the setting sun transformed the landscape into shades of gold and orange, the atmosphere here was wonderfully peaceful.

Apart from a handful of other visitors, we largely had the place to ourselves. As darkness fell, the stars returned once again. Looking up at the Milky Way from our final campsite was the perfect way to spend our last evening in Namibia’s wilderness.

Day 9: Quiver Tree Forest to Windhoek

The final day arrived far too quickly. After breakfast, we packed away our tents for the last time and began the journey back to Windhoek. About halfway through the drive, our guide organised a surprise roadside celebration.

It happened to be my (Sam’s) birthday. Unknown to me, our guide, driver and Livia had secretly organised cake, drinks and a few extra treats. It was such a thoughtful gesture and a perfect example of the kind of people Chameleon Safaris employs.

The remainder of the drive passed quickly and before we knew it we were back in Windhoek.

Nine days earlier we had arrived knowing very little about Namibia, Now we were leaving with thousands of photographs, countless memories and a much deeper appreciation for one of Africa’s most spectacular countries.

What to Pack for This Tour

A few items made our trip significantly more comfortable:

  • Camera with a Zoom Lens – If you enjoy photography, bring the longest lens you own. A lens of at least 300mm is ideal for Etosha.
  • Head Torch – Camping is much easier when both hands are free.
  • Inflatable Travel Pillow – Perfect for long drives and surprisingly useful in the tents.
  • Warm Jacket or Puffer – Evenings can become surprisingly cold, especially in the desert.
  • Binoculars – Not essential, but very useful during wildlife viewing in Etosha.

Group Tour Tips

This is a group tour, which means you won’t know exactly who you’ll be travelling with until the tour begins. Your truck might be full or nearly empty. You may be travelling with couples, solo travellers, retirees or backpackers.

Our advice is simple. Be social. Be helpful. Help pitch tents. Help wash up. Share snacks. Offer to take someone’s photo. The people around you will become part of the experience, and a positive attitude goes a long long way.

Also, don’t underestimate Namibia’s ability to absolutely destroy clothes. Dust, sand, sweat and desert wind get absolutely everywhere. You’ve been warned.

Final Thoughts: Is the Chameleon Safaris 9-Day Tour Worth It?

Yes, absolutely. If we were designing our perfect itinerary, we would probably skip Fish River Canyon.The tour was packed with a lot of impressions in a short time, but totally worth it! If we were to do it again, we’d probably do the slightly longer 10 day camped tour instead of the one we did – as it had a bit more relaxed pace and more stops.

Livia was quite concerened about camping, but as it turned out she loved it. Maybe it was the slower pace, maybe it was the camaraderie, maybe sleeping under canvas just suited us better. Camping also opened the door to our 8 day self-drive around Namibia where we did a mix of rooftop camping and lodges

The reality is that this tour delivered one incredible experience after another.

Etosha gave us unforgettable wildlife encounters. Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei completely exceeded expectations. Kolmanskop was one of the most fascinating abandoned places we have ever visited, and the Quiver Tree Forest provided some of the best night skies we’ve ever seen.

What really made the trip special, however, were the people. Every guide and driver we travelled with was knowledgeable, friendly and genuinely passionate about showing visitors their country. The truck was comfortable, the food was excellent and the itinerary struck a great balance between adventure, wildlife and scenery.

Yes, there are some long driving days. Yes, there is camping. And yes, you’ll probably return home with sand in places you didn’t know sand could reach, but if you’re looking for an affordable way to experience Namibia’s highlights without self-driving, we would happily recommend this tour.

It still remains one of the best organised and most memorable tours we have ever done.

📌 We booked directly with Chameleon Safaris and we think you should too. We even have a discount code you can use if you want 10% off any of their tours, just use code PADDINGTON10 at checkout.

June 23, 2025 0 comments
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Indonesia

Best Satay in Yogyakarta: Where to Eat Sate in Jogja

by Sam February 28, 2023
written by Sam

Latest update: June 2026

Yogyakarta, also know as Jogja, was one of our favourite food destinations in Indonesia. From street food stalls to family-run restaurants, we ate incredibly well during our time in the city.

One dish we kept coming back to was satay (or sate), grilled skewers of meat cooked over charcoal and served with a variety of sauces and seasonings. If you’re looking for the best satay in Yogyakarta, these are the places we would recommend.

Ingredients used in Yogyakarta’s Satay

In Yogyakarta you’ll find satay made from chicken, beef, goat and lamb. Many restaurants brush the meat with kecap manis, Indonesia’s sweet soy sauce, while it cooks over charcoal, giving it a slightly smoky and caramelised flavour.

Best Places to Enjoy Satay in Yogyakarta

There are many places to enjoy satay in Yogyakarta, but some of the best places include:

1. Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu

Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu was our favourite satay restaurant in Yogyakarta and the one we’d return to without hesitation. Located around 30 minutes north of the city in the Sinduharjo area, it is best known for its excellent beef satay and a huge dish they call the “Dinosaur Ribs”.

Everything is cooked over charcoal and served with a rich sauce made from the meat juices and kecap manis. The food is fantastic, the service is quick and friendly, and the atmosphere feels genuinely local. It’s well worth the short taxi ride from the city centre.

2. Satay Klathak Pak Pong

Satay Klathak Pak Pong serves various types of satay, including chicken, beef, goat, and lamb. The meat is grilled over charcoal and served with a special sauce made from coconut milk, lemongrass, and other herbs and spices. The restaurant is located in the Klathak area, about 30 minutes south from the city center.

3. Ayam Goreng Jawa Mbah Cemplung

Ayam Goreng Jawa Mbah Cemplung is located in the Prawirotaman area, this restaurant is known for its delicious chicken and goat satay. The meat is marinated in a special blend of spices and grilled over charcoal. The peanut sauce served with the satay is made from roasted peanuts, chili, and other spices, giving it a rich and savory flavor.

4. Sate Kambing Sari Cempe Neng Lia

Sate Kambing Sari Cempe Neng Lia is famous for its lamb satay, which is grilled to perfection and served with a spicy sauce made from peanuts and chili. The restaurant is located in the Tegalrejo area, not far from the city center.

Tips for Eating Satay in Yogyakarta

One thing we quickly learned in Yogyakarta is that no two satay restaurants are exactly the same. Some specialise in beef, others in goat or chicken, and the sauces can vary just as much as the meat. If you’re a fan of grilled food, don’t stop at just one restaurant.

Many of the best satay places are local restaurants rather than tourist attractions, so carrying some cash is a good idea. We also found that satay is often best enjoyed in the evening, when the charcoal grills are firing and the restaurants are full of local families and groups of friends.

Final thoughts

In our opinion, the best satay in Yogyakarta has to be Pak Bayu, not just because of the quality of the food, but also the traditional atmosphere and friendly staff.

That said, Yogyakarta has no shortage of excellent places to eat satay, whether you prefer chicken, beef, goat or lamb. If you’re visiting the city, trying satay should be high on your food list, and hopefully this guide helps you find a new favourite.

If you want to read more about food in Yogyakarta see our previous post ‘Where to eat in Yogyakarta‘

February 28, 2023 0 comments
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Dominican Republic

How to Hike to Salto El Limon, Las Terrenas

by Sam April 19, 2022
written by Sam

Hiking to Salto El Limón waterfall in the Dominican Republic is one of the best things to do near Las Terrenas.

This guide shows exactly how to hike to Salto El Limón without a guide, using a quieter route that avoids crowds, saves money, and gives you a better overall experience of this famous Dominican Republic waterfall.

Quick Overview: Hiking to Salto El Limón from Las Terrenas

  • Location: Samaná Peninsula, Dominican Republic
  • Distance: ~8–10 km
  • Time: ~4 hours
  • Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Suggested Itinerary

  • 07:15 Guagua from Las Terrenas
  • 07:45 Start hiking
  • 08:30 Arrive at Salto El Limón waterfall
  • 08:30–09:30 Swim and explore
  • 09:30–10:30 Hike out
  • 10:30 Return

What You Need for the Hike

  • Phone with offline maps
  • ~500 DOP cash
  • Water + snacks
  • Swimwear + towel
  • Sun protection
  • Light rain jacket

Step 1: Download Maps Before Hiking

When hiking to Salto El Limón, mobile signal is unreliable.

Use Google Maps:

  • Search Salto El Limón
  • Download offline map

Optional: Mapy.cz for better hiking trails.

It shows smaller trails that Google often misses.
Mapy.cz for iPhone

Mapy.cz for Android

Next, while we are in the application, let’s add the locations of where we will be picked up and dropped off by the local guagua.

Guagua Pickup

Las Terrenas

https://goo.gl/maps/agc9ze4kxdeFFSZC9

The ‘Parrada Guagua El Limon‘ outside La Bodega, opposite the cemetary

Guagua Dropoff

El Limon

https://goo.gl/maps/p8r7F2u2yHnzwojv6

Appx 4km after the town of El limon. Known as ‘Casa Nega‘ at the 19km road marking

Guagua Pickup (Return)

El Limon

https://goo.gl/maps/AnGJX6esadKvLto16

The bus stop in El Limon

Guagua Dropoff

Las Terrenas

https://goo.gl/maps/hG7VF4pjL4D3xakQ6

Cemetery Road

Guagua times
Guagua times
Parrada Guagua
This is where you get the guagua from in Las Terrenas

Step 2: Guagua to Casa Nega (Start of the Hike)

From Las Terrenas:

  • Take the early guagua
  • Cost: ~150 DOP
  • Ask for: Casa Nega after El Limón

This drop-off sets you up for a mostly downhill hike to Salto El Limón waterfall, which is far easier than the standard route.

Tell the driver:
“Casa Nega, después de El Limón.”

You’ll be dropped about 4 km past El Limón village, near a roadside sign and a dirt track.

Casa Nega
Casa Nega

Step 3: Hiking to the Waterfall (Back Route)

From the main road:

  1. Cross carefully
  2. Follow signs for “Cascada El Limón”
  3. Take the dirt road uphill

At the top:

  • Spot a small wooden house
  • Look for a fence crossing (stile)
  • Enter the field and follow the worn trail

Bonus: First Viewpoint

Climb slightly to the ridge for a wide, cinematic view over the rainforest. Worth the 2-minute detour.

From here, the trail becomes clear:

  • Descend gradually
  • Follow the main path
  • Cross a shallow river

Turn left shortly after → waterfall entrance.

First Viewpoint
First Viewpoint
First Viewpoint over the sub tropical rainforest of El Limon in Samaná

Walk directly down to the path and keep following it all the way until you hit your first river crossing. It’s shallow and has a small path across it. Immediately after you can turn left and head to the waterfall entrance.

Hiking Route to El Limon
Hiking Route to El Limon
Our hiking route from Casa Nega back to El Limon via the waterfalls
Altitude Profile
Altitude Profile
Altitude profile of the hike. It’s mostly downhill I promise!

Step 4: Arrive Early and Beat the Crowds

If you took the 07:15 guagua, you might arrive before ticket staff.

  • Early arrival: often free entry
  • Later arrival: ~50 DOP

Arriving early has advantages:

  • Fewer tourists at the waterfall
  • Cooler temperatures for hiking
  • Sometimes no entrance fee

Pro tip

Before heading down:

  • Walk behind the souvenir stand
  • You’ll get a direct top-down view of the waterfall

Then descend to the base.

Step 5: Swimming at Salto El Limón Waterfall

The payoff: a 40-metre cascade crashing into a natural pool.

The highlight of hiking to Salto El Limón is reaching the waterfall itself.

  • Height: ~40 metres
  • Natural pool for swimming
  • You can swim directly under the waterfall

This is one of the most scenic waterfalls in the Dominican Republic, and arriving early makes a huge difference.

  • Expect strong spray and slippery rocks
  • Water is cool, refreshing, and deep enough for a proper dip

This is the moment the hike cashes out.

Salto El Limon
Salto El Limon the 40m high waterfall with natural pool

Step 6: The Exit Route (Standard Path Out)

Instead of going back the same way:

  1. Cross the wooden bridge
  2. Follow the path downstream
  3. Pass a smaller waterfall
  4. Begin a steady uphill climb

You’ll reach:

  • A clearing with views over the falls
  • A gift shop area
  • Mule parking zone

From here:

  • Continue descending
  • Cross the river again
  • Follow the water line briefly (~100 m)

You’ll exit near:

  • A water pump and pipe
  • The official entrance road

Turn right → walk back to El Limón village.

View over Salto El Limon in the Dominican Republic
View over Salto El Limon on the walk OUT!

Step 7: Return to Las Terrenas

Catch a guagua from El Limón:

  • Same route back
  • Similar cost (~150 DOP)
  • Frequency: regular but not fixed

Why This Route Works Better

Most people:

  • Start in El Limón
  • Ride horses
  • Climb uphill both ways

You:

  • Descend into the jungle
  • Arrive early
  • Avoid crowds
  • Pay less
  • Get better views

It’s the same waterfall, just approached intelligently.

FAQ: Hiking to Salto El Limón

Is it safe to hike without a guide?

Yes. The trail is clear, well-used, and easy to follow with offline maps.

Do I need good fitness?

Moderate fitness is enough. One uphill section on the way out is the only challenge.

Can you swim at the waterfall?

Yes. Swimming is one of the highlights.

Is it worth it without a tour?

Absolutely. You save money, avoid crowds, and control your pace.

Final Take

This isn’t just a hike. It’s a small logistical puzzle that rewards initiative.

Skip the horse caravans. Take the back door into the jungle. Arrive before the noise.

And for a brief window, Salto El Limón feels like it belongs to you.

April 19, 2022 0 comments
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Montenegro

Why We Didn’t Love Montenegro (Our Honest Experience)

by Sam March 21, 2019
written by Sam

Montenegro was the country that many of our friends and family thought we would love. This small Balkan nation attracts huge numbers of visitors each year, especially during the summer months, thanks to its beautiful coastline, picturesque towns and dramatic scenery.

However, after just a few days we decided to change our plans and move on earlier than expected. In the end, we only spent four days in Montenegro and never really connected with it the way we had hoped.

So, is Montenegro worth visiting?

Is it worth going to Montenegro?

Absolutely.

Just because Montenegro wasn’t the right fit for us doesn’t mean it isn’t worth visiting. In fact, we can completely understand why so many people love it.

We know it isn’t entirely fair to judge a country based on only two destinations, but after visiting Herceg Novi and Kotor, we felt ready to continue our journey elsewhere.

If you’re looking for a relaxing holiday with beautiful scenery, easy transport and plenty of tourism infrastructure, Montenegro is a fantastic choice. However, if you’re seeking something a little more adventurous or less visited, we would personally recommend Bosnia and Herzegovina or Albania instead.

Both countries felt more off the beaten path, attracted fewer tourists and were noticeably cheaper. We also ended up falling completely in love with both of them.

Why we didn’t fall in love with Montenegro

Don’t get us wrong. Montenegro is stunning.

Both places we visited were beautiful, and the scenery we saw from the bus window was spectacular. The mountains, coastline and views across the Bay of Kotor were some of the most impressive landscapes of our Balkan trip.

The issue wasn’t the scenery.

When we crossed the border from Bosnia, everything suddenly felt very different. English was widely spoken, the currency changed to the Euro and prices increased significantly. None of these things are negative, but they changed the feeling of the trip.

We tend to enjoy places that feel a little rough around the edges, where tourism hasn’t completely shaped the local experience. Compared to Bosnia, Montenegro’s coast felt much more developed and much more focused on tourism.

Had we arrived from Croatia, or visited Montenegro first, we might have had a completely different impression. In fact, we probably would have considered it relatively affordable. Instead, we arrived directly from Bosnia, which felt more authentic to us, was considerably cheaper and matched our travel style better. Because of that comparison, neither Herceg Novi nor Kotor quite clicked with us.

Will We Return?

Probably. Looking back, we know we judged Montenegro quite quickly. Four days isn’t enough time to fully understand any country, and there are plenty of places we didn’t get to visit.

At the time, though, moving on to Albania made sense both from a budget perspective and because we were looking for somewhere that felt a little less geared towards tourism.

Montenegro simply wasn’t the right destination for us on that particular trip. That said, we’d happily give it another chance in the future.

March 21, 2019 0 comments
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Montenegro

A Short Guide to Kotor, Montenegro

by Sam March 18, 2019
written by Sam

Kotor is a beautiful little town on the shores of the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. Known for its medieval old town, dramatic mountain backdrop and large population of cats, it attracts visitors from all over the world.

We arrived by bus from Herceg Novi, a journey that turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip, with stunning views across the bay almost the entire way.

This is our short guide to Kotor.

We visited in November, during the off-season, when the town was pleasantly quiet, especially in the evenings. Many restaurants were closed for the winter and prices were higher than we expected, so we cooked most of our meals at home. Because of that, we don’t have any restaurant recommendations for Kotor, but we do have a few tips on what to see and do while you’re there.

Walking the streets of Kotor

Where to stay in Kotor

We rented a studio apartment in the old town of Kotor, clean, great location and now they also have a beautiful roof top terrace with views over the bay.

What to do in Kotor

We only spent two nights in Kotor and didn’t pack our days with activities. Simply wandering through the old town was enough for us. The narrow streets, historic buildings and beautiful views around every corner make Kotor a pleasure to explore on foot.

The old town is quite small, so it’s easy to get around, and of course there are plenty of cats to keep you company along the way. 

Visit the fort

A walk up to the fort is definitely worth it for the views alone. Just make sure to wear comfortable shoes, as the climb is steep and takes a bit of effort.

The standard entrance fee is quite expensive, so here’s a tip we wish we’d known beforehand. If you leave the old town and follow the small dirt path used by local farmers, you can reach the fort from the back without paying the entrance fee (this was the case in 2018 at least, not sure now).

To be honest, the fort itself isn’t particularly impressive. The real reason to make the climb is for the spectacular views over Kotor, the bay and the surrounding mountains.

Enjoy a Slow Morning in Kotor

One of our favourite ways to spend time in Kotor was simply slowing down and enjoying the atmosphere. Find a seat at Caffe Bar Perper, order a coffee, and watch life unfold in the square around you.

Kotor isn’t a place that needs a packed itinerary. Between the old stone buildings, wandering cats and mountain views, it’s easy to spend an hour or two doing very little at all, which is part of its charm.

Kotor Boat Tours

📌 Looking for something more to do in Kotor?
See our friend Natalie’s post about the Best Kotor Bay Boat Tours for Half-Day Trips in 2026

March 18, 2019 0 comments
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Bosnia-Herzegovina

What to Eat in Bosnia and Herzegovina: Must-Try Dishes

by Sam March 12, 2019
written by Sam

One of the biggest surprises during our month in Bosnia and Herzegovina was just how good the food was. Before arriving, we knew very little about Bosnian cuisine, but it quickly became one of our favourite food destinations in the Balkans.

Traditional Bosnian food is hearty, filling and often centred around meat, slow-cooked stews and freshly baked bread. Meals are typically made from local and seasonal ingredients and generous portions are the norm. You’ll also notice influences from both the Ottoman Empire and neighbouring Balkan countries throughout the cuisine.

We also loved the café culture. Whether it was strong Bosnian coffee served with Turkish delight, a cold local beer or a glass of homemade rakija, food and drink seemed to play a central role in everyday life.

There are countless dishes worth trying, but these were some of our favourites from our month travelling around Bosnia and Herzegovina, along with where we enjoyed them most.

1. Ćevapi

Bosnia and Herzegovina is the land of ćevapi, and trying them is practically mandatory while visiting the country. These small grilled sausages are usually served inside soft flatbread with a generous helping of raw onions, although some places also offer ajvar or a yoghurt-based sauce.

During our month in Bosnia, we ate more ćevapi than we care to admit, and after plenty of research, we finally found our favourite. That honour goes to Haris in Travnik. In fact, several locals in Sarajevo told us that Haris in Travnik was the place to go for the best ćevapi in Bosnia, and after trying them ourselves, we completely agree. They were juicy, full of flavour and easily the best we had during our trip.

Cevapi at Haris in Travnik

2. Mućkalica

Mućkalica is a rich meat stew cooked in a tomato-based sauce and one of our favourite dishes we tried in Bosnia and Herzegovina. While it originates from Serbia, you’ll find plenty of Serbian influences in the cuisine of Bosnia and Herzegovina, particularly in the Republika Srpska region.

The dish consists of tender pieces of meat cooked in a flavourful tomato-based sauce and is the perfect comfort food after a day of exploring.

The best version we had was in Sarajevo at a small restaurant with one very unusual feature for Bosnia: it was completely non-smoking (October 2018). The tiny kitchen at the back was constantly buzzing with activity as the cooks prepared everything from scratch.

The restaurant was popular with both locals and visitors, so we’d recommend booking a table in advance. The staff spoke excellent English and were incredibly welcoming. While the mućkalica was the highlight for us, the homemade bread crown and excellent steaks were also worth mentioning.

3. Bosanski Lonac

Bosanski Lonac quickly became Livia’s favourite dish in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This traditional slow-cooked stew is typically made with meat, cabbage, carrots, onions and other vegetables, all cooked together for hours until the flavours combine into something wonderfully rich and comforting.

The best version we tried was at Kod Asima in Jajce, located above the entrance to the old town (Update May 2026: we can’t find this restaurant on Google Maps anymore). The interior is a little dated and dark, but there is also a pleasant rooftop terrace if the weather is nice.

What made this Lonac so memorable was the texture. It was thick, rich and packed with flavour, unlike some of the thinner versions we encountered elsewhere. We ended up talking about this meal long after leaving Jajce.

One interesting thing we noticed during our travels was that Bosanski Lonac seemed much more common in the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. We don’t remember seeing it on menus during our time in Republika Srpska, although that may simply have been the places we visited.

4. Mix grill

Grilled meat is a huge part of Bosnian cuisine, and you’ll find mixed grill platters on menus all over the country. We ordered them more times than we can remember during our month in Bosnia, and rarely had a bad meal.

One of the best mixed grills we found was at Irma in Mostar‘s Old Town. Everything is cooked over a charcoal grill, and watching the chef work is almost as entertaining as the meal itself. At one point she was pulling meat from the flames with her bare hands before piling it onto enormous platters.

We ordered the mixed grill for two and were genuinely shocked when it arrived. For around 30 KM (October 2018), we received a mountain of grilled meat, vegetables, ajvar, bread, cream cheese and, of course, a generous helping of raw onions. It was a mountain of joy. If you visit Mostar, arrive hungry. We made the mistake of eating earlier in the day and quickly realised that was a rookie error.

Mostar Irma Grill Livia
Mostar Irma Grill

5. Burek

Burek is one of the most popular snacks in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and you’ll find it everywhere. Made from thin layers of pastry and filled with different ingredients, it’s the perfect quick meal whether you’re grabbing breakfast, lunch or a late-night snack.

Our favourite version was the traditional meat-filled burek, although you’ll also find varieties filled with cheese, spinach and potatoes. Most bakeries (pekara) sell fresh burek throughout the day, and many stay open late into the evening, making it one of the easiest foods to find when travelling around the country.

The best burek we had was in Travnik, but honestly, we don’t remember ever having a bad one. If you’re visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina, eating burek at least once is practically a requirement. 

6. Bosnian Coffee

No visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina would be complete without trying Bosnian coffee. Strong, rich and traditionally served in a small copper pot alongside a cup and often a piece of Turkish delight, drinking coffee here is as much about the experience as the coffee itself.

We quickly fell in love with Bosnia’s café culture. No matter where we went, cafés were full of people chatting, reading the newspaper or simply watching the world go by. Unlike many countries where coffee is something you drink quickly before moving on, in Bosnia it is often something to be enjoyed slowly.

Some of our favourite coffee experiences came from the smaller towns. In Jajce, a café owner even brought us cushions to sit on while we enjoyed our coffee in the autumn sunshine. Moments like these became some of our favourite memories from Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Whether you drink it with sugar, Turkish delight or a glass of water on the side, Bosnian coffee is a must-try experience while travelling through the country.

7. Biftek

While biftek isn’t a traditional Bosnian dish in the same way as ćevapi or burek, Bosnia and Herzegovina is known for its excellent meat, making a good steak well worth trying.

We didn’t order biftek too often, mainly because it was usually one of the more expensive items on the menu, but whenever we did, we were rarely disappointed. The quality of the meat was consistently excellent and portions were generous.

One of the best steaks we had during our trip was at MGs restaurant in Trebinje, where it arrived perfectly cooked and packed with flavour. If you’ve spent a few days eating ćevapi and stews, a good biftek makes for a nice change.

March 12, 2019 0 comments
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Bosnia-Herzegovina

Trebinje, Bosnia’s Relaxed Southern Town

by Sam March 6, 2019
written by Sam

Latest update: May 2026

Trebinje, a gem in Hercegovina. Not many cities is Bosnia-Hercegovina are very pretty, but Trebinje really is. The climate was also quite different, much more mediterranean. In general, the landscape of Hercegovina is quite different from the rest of the country, less mountains and less green but still very beautiful. There are also many wineries around the region. This is our Trebinje travel guide, the super picturesque city of Hercegovina.

Where to stay in Trebinje

We stayed at City Apartments, central location within walking distance to the center of town. A pretty yard, clean and comfortable with a little kitchen. We were also welcomed by our host with Rakija shots at 10 in the morning.

What to do in Trebinje

Trebinje is not a touristy city so it doesn’t cater to tourists, which we found very nice. But it also means there arean’t loads of places that you should go and see. We do like to visit these kind of places to get a real feel for a place rather than just ticking off attractions.

Walk Around

Just walking around the city and stumble upon random places is the best thing to do in Trebinje. We love doing that wherever we go and Trebinje is perfect for that. There’s not too much traffic and small enough to walk around. Make sure to stroll along the river, there are some great photo spots with beautiful views over the old town and the old bridge.

Visit Arslanagic Bridge

If you walk further along the river you will find the Arslanagic Bridge, a beautiful old bridge. We found this bridge on par with the one in Mostar, but without tourists. Definitely worth a visit.

Visit Hercegovacka Gracanica

This orthodox church is located on a hill overlooking the whole city. It is walkable but a steep walk up. The church is beautiful, but you really want to come here for the views, they are breathtakingly beautiful. You can see the whole city with the mountains as a backdrop. Make sure to head up here if you visit Trebinje. Also stay for a coffee at the cafe next to the church.

Visit the Church of St. Archangel Michael

This is another orthodox church on a hill. The church itself was closed or under construction when we visited, but you can climb up on the stairs on the outside and you get beautiful views over the city and the surrounding area. The walk up is quite steep, but beautiful. You walk through a villa area on a hill, where life happens.

Visit the Pijaca, the central Market

Come on a Saturday before lunch to see this market at its busiest. People come in from all the surrounding villages to sell their local produce. You will find loads of vegetables, but also home made cheese, honey and other products. As it’s a local market, the prices are also very affordable. After strolling through the market, sit down at one of the cafes on the square for some people watching.

Stari Grad

Walk around old town in Trebinje, it’s not as beautiful as other old towns in Bosnia-Hercegovina, but this is where many people meet for drinks or coffee during weekends. Join the locals and sit down at one of the many cafes or bars and just soak in the vibes.

Drink coffee

As everywhere else in Bosnia-Hercegovina, there’s a strong coffee culture in Trebinje. There’s many nice places around the main square and in old town. But our favourite ones was Botanik, with great coffee just outside the centre of town. Kafe bar Jaz was another favourite, a very nice spot for a coffee by the river, close to the old bridge.

Inside cafe Botanik

Where to Eat in Trebinje

Trebinje was the only place in Bosnia where we had issues finding good food. It seems like people here doesn’t really go out to eat, so evenings were pretty dead (at least when we were there Saturday and Sunday evening in November). It was mainly hotels that served food, but they were overpriced and not great. Other than that mostly pizza places. According to google many good restaurants are located quite a bit outside the city, but as we didn’t have a car we didn’t visit these. But if you do have a car, try them out.

MG’s

We did manage to find one really nice restaurant, Restoran MG. Located close to the main square. The interior looks like it’s coming straight out of a 70s movie, but they served really nice traditional food and the waiter very friendly. The prices was higher than what we were used to in other places in Bosnia-Hercegovina.

March 6, 2019 0 comments
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Bosnia-Herzegovina

Why Visit Travnik, Bosnia and Herzegovina?

by Sam October 17, 2018
written by Sam

We both really enjoyed spending a few days in Travnik. It’s a relaxed small town in central Bosnia and Herzegovina, perfect for slowing down and enjoying local life. With its Ottoman architecture, historic centre and fortress overlooking the town, Travnik feels very different from many other places in the country.

Travnik sits about 90 kilometres west of Sarajevo and was once the capital of the Ottoman province of Bosnia. Much of that history is still visible today, with old mosques, traditional houses and even two clock towers surviving throughout the town.

One of the more unusual sights is the old steam locomotive displayed in the centre. A spark from a train is said to have caused a devastating fire in 1903 that destroyed much of Travnik, and the locomotive now serves as a reminder of that event.

If you’re planning a visit, here’s our Travnik travel guide covering what to do, where to eat and why we think this underrated town is worth a stop.

Where to stay in Travnik

We stayed at Apartment Aid, a 2 bedroom apartment in the center of Travnik. Modern, clean, great place to stay and the host was lovely, sharing all his recommendations.

What to do in Travnik

There aren’t loads of tourist attractions in Travnik, but that was part of the city’s charm for us. Rather than rushing between sights, we found ourselves enjoying the slower pace of life, wandering around town and stopping for coffee.

That said, there are still a handful of interesting places worth visiting during your stay, which we’ve listed below.

Stari Grad Castle

Travnik Castle dates back to the period before the Ottoman Empire ruled Bosnia and Herzegovina. The fortress has been well preserved over the years and remains one of the town’s most impressive landmarks.

We particularly enjoyed the views from the top, which stretch across Travnik and the surrounding hills. If you’re visiting the town, it’s definitely worth making the climb, if only for the scenery and a few good photos.

Amazing views from up top of Stari Grad Castle

Plava Voda

Plava Voda, or ‘blue water’ trickles along the stream to the east of Travnik Castle. Wooden bridges crisscross over the water and restaurants and bars line the water’s edge, it’s a popular spot to relax and enjoy a coffee. The Lutvina Kahva Coffeehouse is of historical significance after the Hapsburg Prince dropped in here in 1887 and left a gold coin to keep the place open. Grab a Lutvina Kaffe (basically a Bosnian coffee with a Turkish Delight, a cigarette and a box of matches) and listen to the clear blue water gurgle past you.

Stari Grad

Stari Grad means old town. Travnik’s old town is situated on the hillside of the city, and it is the perfect place to just walk around and get lost in small alleys.

Stari Grad in Travnik
Stari Grad in Travnik

Where to eat in Travnik

Hari ćevabdžinica

After traveling around Bosnia, there’s one thing that everyone agrees upon. The best Ćevapi is from Travnik and the best restaurant to get it at is at Hari. It is without doubt the best we’ve ever tasted. The bread is fresh with a light dusting of sesame seeds. The meat is perfectly cooked with no lumps or gristle. Grab a seat round the back outside next to the river, it’s the perfect accompliment to this national dish. Of course any place serving the best Ćevapi in Bosnia will be a little busy, but went there twice and didn’t have to wait at all. The staff are super friendly and speak very good English.

Kod Seje

If Burek is your bag, drop into Kod Seje just opposite the ‘Colorful Mosque’. The burek is cooked over an open fire and is very fresh. The menu is tiny, they serve three types of burek, but when something is this good who needs choice. Inside is stone walls decorated with old Bosnian paraphenalia.

October 17, 2018 0 comments
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Jajce Falls
Bosnia-Herzegovina

Jajce Travel Guide: Bosnia’s Waterfall Town

by Sam October 16, 2018
written by Sam

Jajce is a charming little town in central Bosnia and Herzegovina. With its mix of Ottoman architecture, stone streets and historic buildings, parts of it almost feel like a small Italian hill town. At the same time, reminders of the Bosnian War are still visible, with bullet holes remaining on some buildings throughout the town.

We loved the slower pace of life in Jajce. It felt like the kind of place where you could spend a few days wandering around, drinking coffee and getting pleasantly lost in the old town.

In this Jajce travel guide, we’ll share our favourite things to do, where to eat and why we think this underrated town is worth adding to your Bosnia itinerary.

Where to stay in Jajce

We stayed at Jajce Youth Hostel, which was the cheapest accommodation we found at the time. Location was great, just outside one of the gates to old town and within walking distance to the waterfall, as well as bus station.

What to do in Jajce

There isn’t a huge amount to do in Jajce, but there are enough sights and attractions to fill a couple of days. The real highlight, however, is simply slowing down and enjoying the town itself. Grab a coffee at one of the many cafés, wander the old streets and soak up the relaxed atmosphere.

Jajce Waterfalls

The main attraction in Jajce is the famous waterfall right in the centre of town. It’s definitely worth seeing and one of the most unusual landmarks in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

There is an entrance fee if you want to walk down to the base of the waterfall, but personally we didn’t think it was necessary. The views from above were already excellent and gave us a great perspective of the falls.

There is also a viewpoint on the opposite side of the river that many visitors miss. You can see it from the town side, a small open area with a picnic table overlooking the waterfall. To get there, simply cross the bridge and follow the road. There isn’t a pavement on that side and traffic can move quite quickly, so take care and stay as far to the side as possible.

In our opinion, this viewpoint offered one of the best views of the waterfall and was well worth the short walk.

Jajce Falls
Jajce Falls

Visit Jajce Fort

One place you shouldn’t miss is Jajce Fortress. Sitting on top of the hill above town, it offers fantastic views over Jajce and the surrounding countryside. If we’re being honest, we found the views far more impressive than the fortress itself, the panoramic views alone made the climb worthwhile. Entry is inexpensive (October 2018), making it a great stop if you’re travelling on a budget.

Selfies at Jajce Fort
Selfies at Jajce Fort

Get Lost on Purpose

Jajce isn’t the kind of place where you’ll get lost for hours, but it’s still worth taking the time to wander around the small streets surrounding the fortress and old town.

Once you step away from the main street, you’ll get a glimpse of everyday life in Jajce. The winding alleys, old houses and quiet corners give the town an almost village-like feel. It’s the perfect place for a slow stroll and a chance to enjoy the relaxed pace of life.

Drink Coffee

Like everywhere else we visited in Bosnia, Jajce has no shortage of cafés serving traditional Bosnian coffee.

Our favourite was a small café next to the catacombs, where we had some of the best Bosnian coffee of our entire month travelling through the country. There wasn’t any sun on the outdoor terrace when we visited, so we sat on the stone wall outside instead. The owner noticed this and kindly brought us cushions to sit on, before serving our coffee alongside Turkish delight.

It was a small gesture, but one that perfectly summed up the friendliness and hospitality we experienced throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina. The coffee was excellent and very reasonably priced too. Not sure if it’s there anymore, but if it is sit down and enjoy a coffee.

Visit the Catacombs

The catacombs are another of the few attractions in Jajce, but we thought they were worth a visit. Having never visited any other catacombs, we don’t really have anything to compare them to, but they were larger than we expected and even have two levels to explore.

They won’t be the highlight of your trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, but if you’re already heading up to the fortress they’re well worth a quick stop. They’re also nice and cool inside, making it a good escape from the summer heat.

If you have a little time to spare while exploring Jajce, we’d recommend taking a look.

Where to Eat in Jajce

Kod Asim

This place is really nice, a little touristy but definitely worth a visit. A must try is the Lonac, a specialty for the region. It is served in a claypot and it is divine!

Update May 2026: We can no longer find this restaurant on Google Maps and are unsure whether it is still operating. We’re leaving it in this guide as we really enjoyed eating here during our visit. It is possibly called “Restoran Omerbegova kuća” now.

Kristal Grill

Good place for lunch on the main street. They serve grill dishes and some cooked meals too. The food is good and affordable.

October 16, 2018 0 comments
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Pliva River BosniaHerzegovina
Bosnia-Herzegovina

A Slow Travel Experience by the Pliva River

by Sam October 15, 2018
written by Sam

We spent a week in a small village on the banks of the Pliva River and it ended up being one of our favourite experiences in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Surrounded by forests, crystal-clear water and fresh mountain air, Pliva was exactly what we needed after weeks of travelling. It was a place to slow down, clear our heads, catch up on some work and simply enjoy being somewhere peaceful for a while.

Walking the Pliva River in BosniaHerzegovina
Walking the Pliva River with our guide Leo in Bosnia Herzegovina

Staying by the River

We stayed at the Vacation Home Pliva, Brđani, a simple but beautiful riverside house with everything we needed. The family owning the property immediately made us feel welcome and treated us more like family than customers. The family dog tended to come out with us on walks around the countryside, which was lovely. They also took us with them when they went mushroom picking in the forest.

Life in Pliva

Life moves slowly here. There are a few small local shops selling basic groceries like eggs, milk, butter and of course beer if you need it. Do any bigger shopping before arriving here. The local restaurant charges about double what you’d expect to pay in the city, but the food is well prepared any very tasty.

Instead, you come for the river, the nature and the peace and quiet.

Fly Fishing on the Pliva River

The Pliva River is famous for fly fishing.  Groups coming from all over the world to spend time wading up and down the river perfecting their cast. It’s common to see fishing tourists relaxing in the local “bar” (a kiosk with some tables outside) telling their stories of ‘the one that got away’.

During our stay we met Paul Arden from sexyloops.com (world renowned fly fisherman) who was great fun to chat with, not only about Fly fishing, but also about life in general.

Walking the Pliva River in BosniaHerzegovina
Walking the Pliva River in Bosnia Herzegovina

Walk to the Source of the River

One of our favourite walks was following the river upstream to its source. In fact, there are two sources, where the water emerges from caves and beneath the rocks. Seeing such a beautiful river begin as a small trickle of water was surprisingly fascinating.

Along the way we stumbled across a group of locals making homemade rakija. Before we knew it, we had been invited over to see what they were doing and were handed a glass to try. Politely declining wasn’t really an option. As a woman, Livia managed to get away with a single shot. Sam wasn’t so lucky and had to drink three before they were willing to let us continue our walk.

After a chat, a few laughs and a rather strong taste of homemade rakija, we continued on towards the source of the river, only to discover it was about five minutes away. The problem, of course, was that we also had to walk back the same way. Sure enough, we were spotted immediately and invited over for another round. By the time we finally escaped, Sam was relying on a walking stick for balance during the hour-long walk back along the river.

Moments like this ended up becoming some of our favourite memories from Bosnia and Herzegovina.

How to Get to Pliva

We took a taxi from Banja Luka directly to Pliva which cost us €38 (October 2018). You can also catch a bus to the nearest town of Šipovo and take a short 10 minute taxi ride for about €7,50 (October 2018).

Update May 2026: Transport prices have likely changed since our visit in 2018.

Final Thoughts

Pliva isn’t somewhere most tourists visit, and that’s exactly why we loved it.

If you’re looking for a few days of nature, fresh air and slow travel in Bosnia and Herzegovina, we’d happily recommend spending some time by the Pliva River.

October 15, 2018 0 comments
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    • How to Deal with Travel Burnout (And Start Enjoying Travel Again)
    • Sam’s Fulltime Travel Packing List
    • Using Trusted House Sitters to Support Your Travels
    • Trusted House Sitters Promo Code: Save on Your Membership
  • About Us
    • About Sam & Livia
    • The Story Behind Our Full-Time Travel Life
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