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We both really enjoyed spending a few days in Travnik. It’s a relaxed small town in central Bosnia and Herzegovina, perfect for slowing down and enjoying local life. With its Ottoman architecture, historic centre and fortress overlooking the town, Travnik feels very different from many other places in the country.
Travnik sits about 90 kilometres west of Sarajevo and was once the capital of the Ottoman province of Bosnia. Much of that history is still visible today, with old mosques, traditional houses and even two clock towers surviving throughout the town.
One of the more unusual sights is the old steam locomotive displayed in the centre. A spark from a train is said to have caused a devastating fire in 1903 that destroyed much of Travnik, and the locomotive now serves as a reminder of that event.
If you’re planning a visit, here’s our Travnik travel guide covering what to do, where to eat and why we think this underrated town is worth a stop.
Where to stay in Travnik
We stayed at Apartment Aid, a 2 bedroom apartment in the center of Travnik. Modern, clean, great place to stay and the host was lovely, sharing all his recommendations.
What to do in Travnik
There aren’t loads of tourist attractions in Travnik, but that was part of the city’s charm for us. Rather than rushing between sights, we found ourselves enjoying the slower pace of life, wandering around town and stopping for coffee.
That said, there are still a handful of interesting places worth visiting during your stay, which we’ve listed below.
Stari Grad Castle
Travnik Castle dates back to the period before the Ottoman Empire ruled Bosnia and Herzegovina. The fortress has been well preserved over the years and remains one of the town’s most impressive landmarks.
We particularly enjoyed the views from the top, which stretch across Travnik and the surrounding hills. If you’re visiting the town, it’s definitely worth making the climb, if only for the scenery and a few good photos.
Plava Voda
Plava Voda, or ‘blue water’ trickles along the stream to the east of Travnik Castle. Wooden bridges crisscross over the water and restaurants and bars line the water’s edge, it’s a popular spot to relax and enjoy a coffee. The Lutvina Kahva Coffeehouse is of historical significance after the Hapsburg Prince dropped in here in 1887 and left a gold coin to keep the place open. Grab a Lutvina Kaffe (basically a Bosnian coffee with a Turkish Delight, a cigarette and a box of matches) and listen to the clear blue water gurgle past you.
Stari Grad
Stari Grad means old town. Travnik’s old town is situated on the hillside of the city, and it is the perfect place to just walk around and get lost in small alleys.
Where to eat in Travnik
Hari ćevabdžinica
After traveling around Bosnia, there’s one thing that everyone agrees upon. The best Ćevapi is from Travnik and the best restaurant to get it at is at Hari. It is without doubt the best we’ve ever tasted. The bread is fresh with a light dusting of sesame seeds. The meat is perfectly cooked with no lumps or gristle. Grab a seat round the back outside next to the river, it’s the perfect accompliment to this national dish. Of course any place serving the best Ćevapi in Bosnia will be a little busy, but went there twice and didn’t have to wait at all. The staff are super friendly and speak very good English.
Kod Seje
If Burek is your bag, drop into Kod Seje just opposite the ‘Colorful Mosque’. The burek is cooked over an open fire and is very fresh. The menu is tiny, they serve three types of burek, but when something is this good who needs choice. Inside is stone walls decorated with old Bosnian paraphenalia.