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Latest updated: June 2026
Our first stop in Serbia was Niš, a city in the south of the country. To be honest, it wasn’t our favourite stop on this trip. Compared to some of the other places we visited in the Balkans, Niš felt quite industrial and a little rough around the edges. The bus journey there took us through a number of grey, post-industrial towns, which probably didn’t help our first impression.
That said, Niš has an interesting history and a handful of sights that make it worth considering if you’re passing through southern Serbia.
We spent three nights in Niš, which felt like enough time to see the main attractions and get a feel for the city. We didn’t do a huge amount while we were there, partly because we visited in December when the weather was cold and grey. Perhaps on a sunny spring day we would have seen the city a little differently.
Where to stay in Niš
We stayed at NAR Royalton Accommodation, a comfortable place within walking distance of the city centre. It worked well as a base for exploring Niš for a few days and was a good option for our 3 nights in Niš.
What to do in Niš
Old Fortress
One of the nicest areas in Niš is the old fortress. Today, it’s less of a fortress and more of a large park surrounded by historic walls. Inside you’ll find walking paths, a few historical monuments and plenty of open space to relax.
It’s a pleasant place for a stroll, especially on Sundays when many locals come here to walk, meet friends and enjoy the outdoors. There are also a few cafés within the grounds and even a small petting zoo.
Cost: Free of charge.
Visit the Local Market
Next to the entrance of the fortress you’ll find a local market, mostly selling fresh fruit and vegetables. It’s a lively place to wander around and get a glimpse of everyday life in Niš.
Alongside the produce stalls, there are also a handful of vendors selling souvenirs, local products and handmade crafts, making it a worthwhile stop while exploring this part of the city.
Visit the Crveni Krst/Red Cross Concentration Camp
Niš has a dark and complex history, and one of the most important places to learn about it is the former Red Cross Concentration Camp (Crveni Krst).
Visiting the camp is not an easy experience, but it is an important one. Before arriving in Niš, we had no idea that there had been concentration camps in Serbia during World War II. This camp was used by the occupying Nazi forces to imprison thousands of people, including Serbs, Jews, Roma and members of the resistance movement. Many of those held here never left alive.
Today, the site serves as a memorial and museum, helping visitors understand a difficult chapter of both Serbian and European history. While it was one of the hardest places we visited in Niš, it was also one of the most meaningful.
Cost: Small entrance fee. (Check current prices before visiting.)
Skull Tower
Another reminder of Niš’s turbulent past is the Skull Tower (Ćele Kula). Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit, so we didn’t get the chance to see it for ourselves.
The tower is one of the city’s most famous landmarks and has a rather grim history. Following a battle against the Ottoman Empire in 1809, the skulls of Serbian rebels were built into a stone tower as a warning to others who might resist Ottoman rule.
Today, the remaining skulls are preserved inside a chapel, and the site serves as an important historical monument. Even though we missed it, it would be high on our list for a future visit to Niš.
Visit Kazandžijsko Sokače/Tinkers Alley
One of the nicest areas in Niš is Kazandžijsko Sokače, also known as Tinkers Alley. This small historic street is one of the few parts of the city that survived the destruction of the Second World War and gives a glimpse of what Niš once looked like.
Today, the street is lined with cafés, bars and restaurants, making it a pleasant place to stop for a drink or a meal. While it’s not a large attraction, it has far more character than many other parts of the city and is worth a short visit while exploring the centre of Niš.
Where to eat in Niš
Dve krigle pivnica (Permanently closed)
This place was highly recommended by our host, so naturally we had to give it a try. It was a lively local bar serving beer and chicken wings sold by weight, a concept we hadn’t come across before. The atmosphere was fun, the prices were low and it was always busy with locals, making it a great spot for a casual night out.
Update 2026: It appears that this bar has permanently closed since our visit. It’s a shame, as it was one of our favourite places in Niš, but hopefully another local favourite has taken its place.
Galija
Galija is a traditional Serbian restaurant serving generous portions of local favourites. It felt a little more tourist-oriented than some of the places we usually seek out, but the food was tasty, the portions were huge and it’s a good option if you’d like to try some classic Serbian dishes during your stay in Niš.