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Kathmandu can feel overwhelming when you first arrive. The traffic is busy, the streets around Thamel form a maze, and there always seems to be another temple, courtyard or momo restaurant waiting around the next corner.
Spending seven days in Kathmandu gave us enough time to explore without rushing. We visited the major stupas, took a day trip to Patan, learned how to make momos, ate our way around Thamel, enjoyed a proper spa day and even found time for an eight-hour tattoo session.
This seven-day Kathmandu itinerary covers where we stayed, what we did, our favourite places to eat and a few practical things worth knowing before you arrive.
Is Seven Days in Kathmandu Too Long?
Seven days in Kathmandu worked well for us because we did not want to race between attractions. The extra time allowed us to have slower mornings, revisit restaurants and enjoy experiences such as a cooking class, spa treatment and tattoo appointment.
You could see the main sights in three or four days, but a full week gives you time to explore Kathmandu and Patan at a much more comfortable pace.
We also visited Bhaktapur, but that deserves its own post and itinerary.
Getting a SIM Card at Kathmandu Airport
You can buy a local tourist SIM card after arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport. We picked ours up at the airport so that we had mobile data before travelling to our hotel.
Bring:
- Your original passport
- Cash in US dollars
- An unlocked mobile phone
The staff at the counter will register and activate the SIM for you. Check that mobile data is working before leaving the airport.
Ncell currently offers both tourist SIM cards and eSIMs. Its official tourist packages are available at Tribhuvan International Airport, with a passport required for registration. If your phone supports eSIM, you can also ask about that option. You can check the current Ncell tourist SIM packages before travelling.
Airport packages and payment requirements can change, so bring cash rather than relying entirely on your bank card.
Where We Stayed in Kathmandu
Kantipur Temple House
Kantipur Temple House is a beautiful heritage-style hotel within walking distance of Thamel.
One of our favourite parts of staying here was the complimentary morning yoga on the rooftop. It was a peaceful way to start the day before stepping out into the energy of Kathmandu.
The buffet breakfast was also excellent. Tea, coffee and juice were included, along with local and Western breakfast items cooked to order. The staff were genuinely lovely and made the hotel feel welcoming rather than formal.
Its location worked well because we could walk into Thamel for restaurants and bars while still having somewhere calm to return to.
Hotel Ganesh Himal
We also stayed at Hotel Ganesh Himal, in Chhetrapati on the edge of Thamel.
It is a practical location for exploring the older streets of Kathmandu while remaining close to the restaurants, shops and services around Thamel. The hotel has a more relaxed, traditional feel and makes a useful alternative if you want to stay close to the tourist centre without being right in its busiest streets.
Our Seven-Day Kathmandu Itinerary
This itinerary is intentionally relaxed. Kathmandu is much more enjoyable when every day is not packed with several major attractions.
Day 1: Explore Thamel and Join a Kathmandu Food Tour
After collecting your luggage, buy your SIM card at the airport before taking a taxi to your hotel. Once you have checked in, spend some time exploring Thamel on foot and getting used to the area.
Thamel is busy, colourful and sometimes confusing. Its narrow streets are filled with restaurants, rooftop bars, outdoor shops, bakeries, tattoo studios and small local businesses.
Start Your Trip with a Kathmandu Food Tour
We joined the Kathmandu Food and Drink Walking Tour on our first day and highly recommend it.
The three-hour walking tour includes at least nine tastings and introduces you to local restaurants, market streets and small food businesses that would be easy to miss when exploring alone. We tried a wide variety of Nepali food while learning more about the dishes, ingredients and culture behind them.
It was also a brilliant way to get our bearings. Walking through Thamel, Asan Bazaar and the surrounding streets with a local guide helped us understand how the different parts of central Kathmandu connected.
Most importantly, the tour gave us several trusted places to return to during the rest of our stay. Instead of guessing which restaurants and food stalls to try, we already had a good idea of where to eat and what we wanted to order next.
Do this tour at the beginning of your visit, arrive hungry and avoid arranging a large meal afterwards. There is plenty of food included.
Day 2: Visit Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple
Swayambhunath Mahachaitya, better known as the Monkey Temple, is one of Kathmandu’s most recognisable religious sites.
The complex sits on a hill overlooking the city. The main stupa, prayer wheels, temples, flags and views make it worth taking your time rather than treating it as a quick photo stop.
Take a taxi to the top and walk down
The easiest way to visit is to take a taxi to the upper entrance, explore the temple complex and then walk down the main staircase.
This saves you from beginning the visit with a long uphill climb, while still allowing you to experience the famous staircase on the way back down.
Stop at Cafe Lisa-T
Stop at Cafe Lisa-T for one of the best close-up views of the stupa.
The rooftop is a brilliant place for a drink and photos. Your rooftop order even comes with the free use of a monkey stick, which is exactly what it sounds like: a stick to discourage any overly confident monkeys from getting too close.
Keep food, sunglasses and loose belongings secure around the monkeys. They are extremely quick when they see something interesting.
Day 3: Visit Boudhanath Stupa
Boudhanath Stupa is one of the largest and most important Buddhist stupas in Nepal.
The stupa dominates the surrounding square, but the atmosphere is quite different from Swayambhunath. Visitors and worshippers walk clockwise around the structure while prayer flags stretch overhead and incense drifts through the surrounding streets.
Give yourself time to walk around at ground level and then choose one of the rooftop cafés overlooking the stupa. The elevated view helps you appreciate its scale and provides a very different perspective.
Early morning and late afternoon are particularly atmospheric, but Boudhanath is worth visiting at any time of day.
Coffee with a View at Gallery by Himalayan Java
For good coffee and an excellent view of Boudhanath Stupa, stop at Gallery by Himalayan Java.
Its elevated seating overlooks the stupa and the surrounding square, making it a great place to pause after walking around Boudhanath. You can watch worshippers and visitors circling below while enjoying one of the best-known local coffee brands in Nepal.
Try to get a table facing the stupa. The view is particularly atmospheric later in the day when the light begins to soften.
Day 4: Explore Patan
Patan, also known as Lalitpur, sits south of central Kathmandu and is easily reached by taxi.
Its historic centre is compact enough to explore on foot, with temples, courtyards, old buildings and quieter lanes leading away from the main square.
Patan Durbar Square
Patan Durbar Square is the centrepiece of the old city.
The square contains an extraordinary collection of Newari architecture, carved wooden buildings, temples and palace courtyards. Allow time to look beyond the main monuments because much of Patan’s appeal is found in the smaller details.
Patan Durbar Square Entrance Fee
Entrance to Patan Durbar Square costs NPR 1,000 for international visitors, which is approximately US$6.50 at current exchange rates. The ticket includes admission to the excellent Patan Museum inside the former royal palace. You’ll get your ticket from a little kiosk at the entrance to the square, so don’t be put off when someone calls at you to pay to enter.
Do not skip the museum. Its collection of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, metalwork and religious art adds useful context to the temples and architecture around the square. Allow at least an hour for the museum, in addition to the time you plan to spend exploring the square itself.
Ticket prices differ for SAARC nationals and Nepali visitors, and exchange rates can change. The NPR 1,000 international admission price is confirmed by the Nepal Tourism Board.
Krishna Mandir
Krishna Mandir is one of the most distinctive temples in Patan Durbar Square.
Unlike many of the surrounding brick and timber buildings, the temple is built from carved stone. Its layered design and position in the centre of the square make it one of Patan’s most recognisable structures.
Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, the Golden Temple
A short walk north of Patan Durbar Square brings you to Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, also known as the Golden Temple or Kwa Baha.
Hidden inside a courtyard reached through the surrounding streets, this historic Newar Buddhist monastery feels quite different from the open monuments around Durbar Square. Its gilded façade, detailed metalwork, prayer wheels and statues make it one of the most beautiful places we visited in Patan.
The monastery dates back to around the 12th century and remains an active religious site, so visit respectfully and follow any instructions about photography or where you may walk. It is only around 200 metres from Patan Durbar Square and is easy to include before continuing towards Pimbahal Pukhu.
Pimbahal Pukhu
From the main square, continue through the old streets to Pimbahal Pukhu.
This historic pond is surrounded by shrines, local homes and small places to eat. It feels much quieter than Durbar Square and is a lovely place to slow down after visiting the main attractions.
Day 5: Learn How to Make Momos
After eating momos across Kathmandu, we wanted to learn how to make them ourselves.
Kathmandu Cooking Academy offers practical Nepali cooking classes, including a dedicated momo-making class. It is a hands-on experience rather than a demonstration, so you learn how to prepare the filling, fold the dumplings and cook them properly.
The academy currently lists a 90-minute momo class as well as longer cooking sessions covering several Nepali dishes. Check the available menus and times before booking.
It is a fun way to understand more about one of Nepal’s most popular foods, and you get to eat what you make afterwards.
Keep the rest of the day flexible. A cooking class pairs well with a slower afternoon exploring Thamel or visiting one of Kathmandu’s cafés.
Day 6: Have a Spa Day
After several days of walking around Kathmandu, book a treatment at Paradise Spa.
Paradise Spa offers massages as well as facilities and packages that can include a sauna, Jacuzzi, body scrub and facial. We had a great massage here, and the pools and other facilities make it somewhere you can spend longer than a standard one-hour appointment.
Book ahead if you want a particular treatment or a longer package.
If you are planning to get a tattoo during the same trip, schedule the spa first. Swimming pools, Jacuzzis, saunas and massages should be avoided while a new tattoo is healing.
Day 7: Get a Tattoo in Kathmandu
Kathmandu offers excellent value for high-quality tattoo work, and both of us decided to get some new ink during our stay.
Fine-Line Tattoo at Suminu Tattoo
Livia was tattooed by Sumina Shrestha at Suminu Tattoo, who specialises in delicate fine-line work. Her style is particularly well suited to smaller, detailed designs where clean lines and precision matter.
If you want a fine-line tattoo, contact Sumina in advance and send her your ideas, preferred size and placement. This gives her time to discuss the design and confirm how long the appointment is likely to take.
A Full-Day Session with Kamal Dulal
Sam was tattooed by Kamal Dulal at Mystic Ink Nepal in Thamel. He was amazing, Sam went in a few days before, discussed designs, placement and returned on our last day to to get it done. It’s usual to leave a 50% deposit during consulation, so be prepared.
This was a full eight-hour session and cost approximately US$250, which represented excellent value for the amount and quality of work involved. It was a proper full-day appointment, so eat a substantial meal beforehand, take water and snacks, and wear clothing that gives the artist easy access to the area being tattooed.
Tattoo prices depend on the artist, design, placement, size and time required. Contact the artist directly for a quotation rather than assuming your tattoo will cost the same as ours.
Both experiences also showed how varied Kathmandu’s tattoo scene is. Livia chose a specialist in precise fine-line work, while Sam booked a long custom session with Kamal. Look through each artist’s portfolio and choose someone whose existing work matches the style you want.
If your Kathmandu itinerary also includes a massage, sauna, swimming pool or Jacuzzi, visit the spa before your tattoo appointment. Afterwards, follow your artist’s aftercare instructions and avoid soaking the fresh tattoo while it heals.
Where to Eat in Kathmandu
Eating was a major part of our week in Kathmandu. These were some of the places we enjoyed.
Eat Momo
Eat Momo served the best momos we ate in Kathmandu.
It is located on Chaksibari Marg in Thamel and is an easy, casual stop for lunch or dinner. If you are trying momos for the first time, this is where we would begin.
Address: P876+H3W, Chaksibari Marg, Kathmandu 44600
Joy Momo
Joy Momo in Paknajol is another useful option near Thamel, particularly if you want a quick and inexpensive momo stop.
Thamel Momo Hut
Thamel Momo Hut is conveniently located for anyone staying in central Thamel and gives you another chance to work through Kathmandu’s many momo variations.
Newa Momo Restaurant
Newa Momo Restaurant is another addition to a Kathmandu momo crawl and a good opportunity to try a Newari style of cooking.
Thirsty Newari Restaurant
Thirsty Newari Restaurant is a good choice when you want to move beyond momos and try more traditional Newari food. We visited here as port of our food tour.
Roadhouse Cafe, Thamel
Roadhouse Cafe provides a change from Nepali food and is a reliable option for pizza and other familiar dishes.
Third Eye Restaurant
Third Eye Restaurant is a long-established Thamel restaurant and works well for a more relaxed sit-down evening meal.
Sam’s Bar
Sam’s Bar is a straightforward place for an evening drink in Thamel. It has a relaxed atmosphere and none of the polish of a hotel bar, which is part of its appeal.
Sweet Lassi
Sweet Lassi served the best lassi we found in Kathmandu. We visited here as port of our food tour.
It is simple, refreshing and well worth seeking out while exploring the city.
Should You Visit Bhaktapur from Kathmandu?
Yes, but we are keeping Bhaktapur separate from this seven-day Kathmandu guide.
Bhaktapur has enough temples, squares, courtyards and old streets to justify a dedicated day and its own article. It feels different from central Kathmandu and should not be reduced to a couple of hurried paragraphs inside a larger itinerary.
If you only have seven days and want to include it, replace the spa or tattoo day with a full day in Bhaktapur.
Use inDrive for Taxis and Price Estimates
We used inDrive to book taxis around Kathmandu. It was particularly useful because it gave us an idea of what a journey should cost before we travelled.
With inDrive, you enter your pickup point and destination, then review the suggested fare and offers from available drivers. This made it easier to compare prices and avoid guessing what a reasonable fare should be.
Even when we took a taxi without booking through the app, we could check the same journey in inDrive first and use the estimated price as a guide. Always confirm the final fare with the driver before setting off, especially if you are not completing the booking through the app.
Allow extra time for traffic. A journey that looks short on the map can take considerably longer during busy periods in Kathmandu.
Allow extra time for traffic
Distances that look short on a map can take longer than expected. Avoid planning attractions back-to-back with no room for delays.
Walk around Thamel
Thamel is best explored on foot. The narrow streets can be confusing, but walking allows you to find restaurants and small businesses that you would miss from a taxi.
Keep food secure around monkeys
Do not carry visible food at Swayambhunath, and keep sunglasses, bottles and other loose items close to you.
Schedule treatments before a tattoo
If your itinerary includes a spa and tattoo appointment, visit the spa first. Give the new tattoo time to heal and follow the artist’s aftercare instructions.
Final Thoughts on Spending Seven Days in Kathmandu
Seven days in Kathmandu allowed us to experience much more than a checklist of temples.
We watched the city from Swayambhunath, walked around Boudhanath, explored the historic streets of Patan, learned to make momos, found our favourite lassi, enjoyed an excellent massage and spent a full day getting tattooed in Thamel.
There is plenty to see, but Kathmandu is also a city that rewards slower days. Leave time for rooftop cafés, unexpected courtyards and yet another plate of momos.
