Japan

Matsue was one of the easiest cities to enjoy on our 23 day slow train route through western Japan. After smaller stops like Masuda and Izumo, Matsue felt a little more substantial, but still calm, historic and very manageable.

We stayed two nights, which gave us enough time to visit Matsue Castle, walk through the old samurai district, stop at a fox shrine, eat cold soba, find GREAT coffee, enjoy a great lunchtime BBQ deal and watch the sunset over Lake Shinji.

It’s also close enough to Izumo Taisha that you can visit the shrine from Matsue, especially if you’d rather base yourself in a larger city with more food and hotel options.

Why Visit Matsue?

Matsue is well worth visiting if you like historic cities with a slower pace. It has one of Japan’s few remaining original castles, a moat, old streets, awesome samurai history, lakeside views and a quieter atmosphere than the more famous historic cities.

It doesn’t feel like tourist-heavy Japan. Instead, Matsue gives you castles, shrines, tea, soba, water views and old neighbourhoods without the rush.

For us, it was one of the many enjoyable stops on the San-In Line.

Where to Stay in Matsue

We stayed at Matsue New Urban Hotel, which worked well for our two-night stay. The hotel was walking distance from Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station and also close enough to walk to Matsue Castle, which made the location much better than we first expected.

It wasn’t near to the JR Matsue Station, so when we left the city we needed to take a bus back to the main station. Even so, we were glad we stayed in this area because it felt more appealing for actually enjoying Matsue.

The hotel also had a tattoo-friendly onsen, which was a big plus for us.

A small bonus of staying near Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station is the public foot spa just outside the station. Bring a small towel if you want to soak your feet after a day of exploring.

Visiting Izumo Taisha from Matsue

Matsue is close enough to Izumo Taisha to use as a base. You can catch the electric train from Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station towards Izumo and continue to Izumotaisha-mae Station with a change along the way.

The train ride itself is part of the experience. When we travelled this route, it felt slow, local and scenic, especially where the line runs near the lake.

One important thing to know: IC cards were not accepted on this train when we travelled, so buy a paper ticket before boarding.

If you’re planning this trip yourself, we’ve written a separate guide covering exactly how to get to Izumo Taisha from Matsue, Izumoshi Station and even Hiroshima, including bus and train options. You can read our full Izumo Taisha transport guide here.

Things to Do in Matsue

Visit Matsue Castle

Matsue Castle is the city’s main historic sight and one of Japan’s few remaining original castles. It’s surrounded by a moat and sits in a lovely area for walking, with old streets and water views nearby.

The castle has a darker, more solid look than some reconstructed castles, which gives it real presence. The detail inside is wonderful, Each floor with it’s solid wooden beams, impecible joinery and and the views keep getting better as you go up. Even if you don’t go inside (shich you absolutely should as you just paid to get in the grounds), the surrounding grounds are worth your time.

Stop at Jozan Inari Shrine

Jozan Inari Shrine is close to Matsue Castle , just head down the path at the rear of the castle and follow the road round. It’s known for its fox statues. It’s a quiet, atmospheric shrine and a good short stop while exploring the castle area. We were the only people there when we visited.

We always enjoy smaller shrines like this because they add texture to a city. Matsue has a nice mix of big sights and small details.

Walk Around Shiomi Nawate

Just outside the castle area, Shiomi Nawate is one of the prettiest streets in Matsue. It has old houses, canals, trees and a quiet historic feel.

This is where Matsue really started to click for us. It feels atmospheric without being overrun, and it pairs perfectly with the castle, former samurai residence and nearby tea shops.

Visit the Former Samurai Residence

The Former Samurai Residence is just outside the castle area on Shiomi Nawate, it gives you a small but interesting look at Matsue’s samurai history. You can walk inside the house and learn all about Samurai history. The gardens are pretty and covered in gravel, so the samurai can hear the footsteps of course!

It’s an easy stop while walking around Shiomi Nawate, and it helps give more context to the old district around the castle.

Have Matcha by the River at Shiomi Cyaho

Near the castle area, Shiomi Cyaho is a lovely place to stop for matcha. It’s actually a souvinir shop, but you can go to the back and sit by the river, order matcha and matcha mochi, and watch the boats pass by.

It’s a simple moment, but exactly the kind of thing that makes Matsue feel special. Don’t fortget to wave at people passing by in the boats.

Visit Gogin Karakoro Museum

The Gogin Karakoro Museum is housed in an old bank, which already makes it more interesting than expected. Downstairs, you can visit the old vault, while upstairs there are handicrafts and local products.

It’s not a huge museum, but it’s a fun and slightly unusual stop between the castle area, coffee and lunch.

Watch Sunset at Shirakata Park

For sunset, head to Shirakata Park by Lake Shinji. Matsue is known for its lakeside views, and this is a peaceful place to slow down at the end of the day.

If the weather is clear, it’s a lovely way to finish your sightseeing before heading out for dinner.

Coffee and Food in Matsue

LITTLE COURT COFFEE

リトルコートコーヒー / LITTLE COURT COFFEE was our favourite coffee stops in Matsue. It’s next to the Kyobashi River, in a nice area for a slow wander.

If you like finding good coffee while travelling like we do, add this one to your map. They have an upstairs room with tatami mats or you can sit outside by the river.

Mingei Sabo Sasaki

One street down from the river is a walking street with shops, cafés and places to eat. On this street, Mingei Sabo Sasaki is a good place to try cold soba noodles. It’s hidden at the back of an antique shop and has lots of interesting knick knacks everywhere. The noodles are delicious and the service is very friendly.

Matsue and the wider region are known for soba, so this felt like the right place to lean into it.

Yakiniku Ginzan Wagyu Karakoro Branch

Yakiniku Ginzan Wagyu Karakoro Branch was a great lunch stop. They had a good-value lunchtime set meal, and it was a fun way to enjoy Japanese BBQ without turning it into a big expensive dinner. Located in the food court behind the Gogin Karakoro Museum.

Outside, look for the Good Fortune Pink Postbox too. It’s silly, cheerful and very easy to photograph.

Oideyasu Ookiniya

Oideyasu Ookiniya was a friendly izakaya where we sat at the bar and watched the chef cook. That kind of setup always makes a meal more memorable. The food was delicious, the chef always had a smile on his face and they had an unlimited drinks package which lasted for an hour, totally worth it!

It had the warm, local feeling we like in Japan: casual, welcoming and not overly polished with super firendly clientele.

How Long Do You Need in Matsue?

We stayed two nights in Matsue, and that felt just right.

With two nights, you can visit Matsue Castle, walk around Shiomi Nawate, see the former samurai residence, stop at Jozan Inari Shrine, have matcha by the river, visit the Gogin Karakoro Museum and enjoy sunset by Lake Shinji.

If you also want to visit Izumo Taisha from Matsue, two nights can still work, but three would give you a more relaxed pace.

Final Thoughts on Matsue

Matsue was one of the easiest stops to enjoy on our western Japan route. It had enough to do without feeling overwhelming, and the area around Matsue Castle, Shiomi Nawate and Lake Shinji gave the city a strong sense of place.

We liked staying near Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station because it put us close to the lake, castle area, coffee shops and restaurants, even if it meant a bus ride back to JR Matsue Station when we left.

For us, Matsue was only a two-night stop, but it became one of the most enjoyable cities on our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.

23 Day Japan Slow Travel Itinerary by Train

A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.

Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine was one of the most important cultural stops on our 23 day slow regional train journey through western Japan. We only stayed one night in Izumo, but that was enough time to visit the shrine, wander the approach street and continue onwards to Matsue the next morning.

Izumo Taisha, also known as Izumo Ōyashiro, is one of Japan’s most important Shinto shrines. It is often considered one of the oldest shrines in Japan, and the official shrine access page lists its location in Izumo, Shimane Prefecture.

For us, the appeal was not just its history. It was also the atmosphere. Compared with the famous shrine and temple stops in Kyoto, Nara or Tokyo, Izumo Taisha felt calmer and far less crowded with international tourists. It still had plenty of Japanese visitors, but it never felt like the big tourist trail.

Why Visit Izumo Taisha?

Izumo Taisha is an incredible shrine and one of the most meaningful places we visited in Japan. The grounds are large, peaceful and atmospheric, with forested paths, smaller shrine buildings and the famous huge shimenawa sacred rope.

This is not a hidden place, but it does feel different from Japan’s more obvious tourist-heavy shrines. It has weight, history and space to breathe.

If you are travelling through western Japan, Shimane Prefecture, Matsue or Izumo, we think it is absolutely worth making time for.

Where We Stayed in Izumo

We arrived at JR Izumoshi Station and stayed at Super Hotel Izumo Ekimae.

The hotel was very close to the south entrance of the station, which made it easy for a one-night stop. It also had a free two-hour drinks bar in the evening, including a surprisingly good range of sake, and a very good breakfast the next morning.

For visiting Izumo Taisha, staying near Izumoshi Station worked well because both the bus and train options are nearby.

How to Get to Izumo Taisha from JR Izumoshi Station

The easiest way to get from JR Izumoshi Station to Izumo Taisha is by bus.

From JR Izumoshi Station, take the Ichibata Bus bound for Izumo Taisha / Hinomisaki. The official Izumo Taisha English access page says to take the bus from bus stop number 1 and get off at Seimon-mae, which takes about 25 minutes.

This is the simplest option because it gets you close to the shrine entrance without needing to change trains.

Useful Bus Pass for Matsue and Izumo

If you’re visiting both Matsue and Izumo, it’s worth checking the local 3-day bus pass. It allows you to ride the Ichibata Bus and Matsue City Bus freely for three days, which can be useful if you’re using buses around Matsue and travelling out to Izumo Taisha.

You can find the English PDF here: https://matsue-bus.jp/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/English.pdf

At the time of our visit, the pass was available from places including the Matsue City Traffic Office and Twin Leaves Hotel Izumo.

You’ll need your foreign passport, and if you have an ICOCA card, bring it with you because it can make the pass cheaper.

Can You Get to Izumo Taisha by Train?

Yes, you can also get there by train using the Ichibata Electric Railway.

From Dentetsu-Izumoshi Station, take the Ichibata Electric Railway and change at Kawato Station for the train to Izumotaisha-mae Station. From there, it is a short walk to the shrine approach.

This route is slightly more involved than the bus, but the local trains are part of the charm in this region. If you enjoy small regional railways, it’s a nice way to travel.

One important note: on our trip, IC cards were not accepted on the Ichibata Electric Railway, so we bought a paper ticket at the office.

How to Get to Izumo Taisha from Matsue

If you are staying in Matsue, you can reach Izumo Taisha by using the Ichibata Electric Railway from Matsue Shinjiko-Onsen Station.

The railway connects Matsue and Izumo, and you can travel towards Izumotaisha-mae with a change along the way. It’s not the fastest transport in Japan, but it is scenic, relaxed and very fitting for this part of the country.

We travelled the opposite direction the next day, from Izumo towards Matsue, and the ride along the lake was delightful.

How to Get to Izumo Taisha from Hiroshima

You can also visit Izumo from Hiroshima by long-distance bus.

The official Izumo Taisha access page lists Hiroshima Bus Center to JR Izumo City Station as around 3 hours. From JR Izumo City Station, you then take the Ichibata Bus to Izumo Taisha, which takes about 25 minutes.

That makes Izumo Taisha possible from Hiroshima, though we’d personally rather stay overnight if you have the time. It gives the shrine more breathing room and avoids turning the day into a transport mission.

Walking the Approach to Izumo Taisha

After getting off the bus, make your way towards the Izumo Taisha Grand Gate of Seidamari, then follow the shrine approach through the third torii and onwards to the Bronze Torii, the fourth torii. When you leave the shrine area, look back down the main street and you’ll see the large torii at Uga Bridge in the distance.

The street has places to eat, drink and buy souvenirs, so don’t rush straight in and out. It’s a pleasant shrine town atmosphere and worth giving a little time.

Coffee Near Izumo Taisha

We stopped at Taisha Coffee, which had a cosy atmosphere, friendly staff and good coffee. The upstairs seating was especially nice, overlooking the street below.

It made a perfect pause after visiting the shrine before heading back towards Izumo city.

Eating Back Near Izumoshi Station

Back in Izumo city, we ate at Sukiya Izumoshi Station South.

It wasn’t fancy, but Sukiya is a Japanese staple: quick, cheap, reliable and very useful after a travel day. Sometimes that’s exactly what you need.

How Long Do You Need for Izumo Taisha?

You can visit Izumo Taisha as a day trip from Matsue or as part of a longer journey through western Japan.

We stayed one night in Izumo, and that felt right for us. It gave us enough time to arrive by regional train, visit the shrine, stay close to the station and continue to Matsue the next morning without rushing.

If you are coming from Hiroshima, we’d consider staying overnight rather than trying to squeeze everything into one long day.

Is Izumo Taisha Worth Visiting?

Yes, Izumo Taisha is absolutely worth visiting.

It is one of Japan’s most important shrines, but it doesn’t feel overrun in the way some famous shrine and temple areas can. For us, that made it even more special.

If you want a meaningful cultural stop in Japan without the overwhelming tourist crowds, Izumo Taisha is a brilliant place to add to a western Japan itinerary.

Izumo is well worth adding as a short stop along the way. We only stayed for one night, but it fitted perfectly into our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.

23 Day Japan Slow Travel Itinerary by Train

A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.

Masuda was one of the most practical stops on our 23 day slow regional train journey through western Japan. It isn’t a famous destination, and it’s not somewhere we’d suggest going far out of your way for, but it worked well as a pause between Mojiko and Izumo.

This was the kind of place where people asked us, “Why Masuda?” and honestly, that was fair. There isn’t a huge list of things to do, but what we found was a quiet, local city with friendly people, a good hotel, a tattoo-friendly onsen, a lovely art museum, simple food and one of the warmest little travel moments of the whole trip.

Masuda was part of our 23 day slow regional train route through western Japan, travelling from Fukuoka across Kyūshū and along the San-Yō and San-In lines towards Tottori and Okayama.

Why Visit Masuda?

Masuda is worth visiting if it fits naturally into your train route. It makes sense as a stop between Shimonoseki, Mojiko, Izumo and Matsue, especially if you’re travelling slowly by regional train and don’t want long travel days.

It is not a polished tourist town, and that’s both the limitation and the charm. We saw no other tourists while we were there, and the city felt very local, very quiet and very ordinary in the best possible way.

If you’re looking for big sights, nightlife or a packed itinerary, Masuda probably isn’t the place. But if you want a useful stop with a few gentle things to do, it can work nicely.

Where to Stay in Masuda

We stayed at Mascos Hotel, which was one of the better hotel choices on this part of the trip. It was modern, comfortable and had an onsen, which made it a very easy place to recover after another regional train day.

The best part for us was that the onsen was tattoo-friendly. The staff understood we were foreign tourists, and tattoos were not an issue, which made the stay much more relaxing.

For a short visit to Masuda, we’d stay here again.

Things to Do in Masuda

Visit Iwami Art Museum

The Iwami Art Museum was our main planned stop in Masuda and a good way to spend part of the day. It had an interesting exhibition, including clothing from the famous Japanese designer Hanae Mori.

It’s not a huge museum, but it was peaceful, well-presented and gave us something worthwhile to do in a city where sightseeing options are limited. If you enjoy museums and slower travel days, it’s worth adding to your Masuda stop.

Visit Ebisu Shrine

Our visit to Ebisu Shrine became one of those unexpected travel memories that we could never have planned properly. Livia met a local woman in the hotel onsen, and after chatting as best they could, she offered to drive us to the shrine because it would have been difficult to reach by public transport.

The shrine sits on a small coastal island and reminded us a little of a mini Mont Saint-Michel, though much smaller and simpler. It’s only accessible at certain times depending on the tide, which made it feel even more special.

The whole thing was incredibly kind, especially as we had only just met her, and she even insisted on buying us McDonald’s on the way back. Too funny, and very memorable.

Where to Eat in Masuda

Takenoya

Takenoya was where we had our first taste of cold soba noodles on this trip. It was simple, local and exactly the kind of meal that suited Masuda.

Cold soba became a bit of a theme for us along this part of Japan, and this was a good introduction.

Kasuri Izakaya

Kasuri was one of those local izakaya experiences where nobody spoke English and the menu was handwritten in Japanese. Google Translate struggled hugely, but we still managed to order, eat and enjoy ourselves.

It wasn’t polished or easy, but it was memorable. Sometimes those are the meals you remember most.

Important Train Ticket Tip for Masuda

One thing you really need to know before arriving in Masuda: the train station does not have an electronic ticket barrier, so you should buy a paper ticket from your departure station.

We learned this the awkward way.

We had tapped in with our ICOCA card earlier in the journey, but when we arrived in Masuda there was nowhere to tap out. The station master quickly realised we were not locals, asked where we were travelling next, and kindly let us through the gate.

A couple of days later, our IC cards had been frozen because the journey had never been completed properly. When we arrived in Izumo, the Masuda station master had already called ahead, explained what had happened, and the staff there helped us calculate the correct fare and fix the cards.

It was all handled with patience, very little English and a bit of Google Translate, but it would have been easier if we had bought a paper ticket in the first place.

How Long Do You Need in Masuda?

One or two nights is enough for Masuda.

We stayed two nights, which gave us time to visit the Iwami Art Museum, use the hotel onsen, eat locally and make the unexpected trip to Ebisu Shrine.

If you are only using Masuda as a route break, one night would also be fine.

Is Masuda Worth Visiting?

Masuda is worth visiting only if it makes sense for your route. We wouldn’t suggest going out of your way for it, and it isn’t one of the best places to visit in Japan if you’re planning a first trip.

But as part of a slow regional train journey through western Japan, it worked well. It gave us a quiet pause, a good hotel, a tattoo-friendly onsen, a couple of local meals and one of the kindest encounters of the whole trip.

Sometimes that’s enough.

If you’re on the San-in Line, Masuda is well worth adding as a relaxed stop along the way. Masuda made a great little stopover point for our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.

23 Day Japan Slow Travel Itinerary by Train

A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.

Mojiko, also known as Mojiko Retro, is a small port town at the northern tip of Kyūshū, just across the Kanmon Strait from Honshu. It isn’t the kind of place we’d tell you to cross Japan for on its own, but as a short stop before heading towards the San-yō or San-in Line, it worked beautifully.

Mojiko was our second stop on our 23 day slow regional train route through western Japan, and it made a charming pause before crossing from Kyūshū to Honshu.

It has a beautifully restored old train station, retro streets, sea views, banana-themed everything, curry, museums, a wharf, and one of the best-value hotel rooms we had on the whole trip. It’s compact, easy to explore, and ideal for one or two relaxed nights.

Why Visit Mojiko?

Mojiko is worth visiting if you enjoy small historic towns, retro architecture, quiet waterfronts and slightly quirky places. It doesn’t have the scale or drama of Japan’s major tourist cities, but that is part of the charm.

The town is branded as “Mojiko Retro”, and the area around the station and waterfront has a nostalgic, early 20th-century feel. You’ll find old buildings, sea views, museums, cafés, curry restaurants and the famous Bananaman statue.

It’s also a practical stop if you’re travelling by regional train. From Mojiko, it’s easy to continue towards Honshu and connect with Shimonoseki before heading along the San-yō or San-in route.

Where to Stay in Mojiko

We stayed at Premier Hotel Mojiko, and it was the biggest and best-value room of our entire 23 day slow regional train trip through western Japan.

The hotel is right by the waterfront, close to Mojiko Station, the wharf, restaurants and the main retro area. Our room had lovely views over the port, and the location made everything easy to reach on foot.

For a short stay in Mojiko, we’d recommend staying close to the station or waterfront. The town is small, so being central means you can arrive by train, drop your bags and start exploring almost immediately.

Things to Do in Mojiko

Take Your Time at Mojiko Station

Mojiko Station is one of the loveliest things about arriving here, so don’t rush off the platform as soon as your train pulls in. Take a moment to turn around, look back and enjoy the retro station atmosphere before heading out.

The station building itself is beautiful from the outside too, with a restored historic design that sets the tone for the rest of Mojiko Retro. It’s not just a transport stop; it’s part of the experience.

Wander Around Mojiko Retro

The main Mojiko Retro area is compact and easy to explore on foot. You’ll find old buildings such as the Former Moji Customs Office, waterfront views, small museums, cafés, restaurants and plenty of banana-themed details scattered around town.

It’s a nice place to wander without a strict plan. The charm is mostly in the atmosphere: the old station, the wharf, the sea air and the slightly unusual retro branding.

Find the Bananaman Statue

One of Mojiko’s quirkiest claims to fame is its banana connection. Bananas became linked with the town because Mojiko was once an important port for imported bananas, especially from Taiwan and Southeast Asia. Over time, banana selling and “banana叩き売り” street performances became part of the town’s identity.

Today, that history shows up in a much sillier way: banana souvenirs, banana curry, banana signs and the Bananaman statue near the waterfront. It’s odd, but fun, and very Mojiko.

Visit Mojiko Retro Observation Gallery

The Mojiko Retro Observation Gallery is one of the best places to get a proper view over the town and the Kanmon Strait. From above, you can see Mojiko’s waterfront, the bridge, the sea traffic and Honshu across the water.

It’s especially useful early in your visit because it helps you understand how the town sits between Kyūshū and Honshu. Mojiko is small, but from the observation deck, the location feels much more dramatic.

Visit the Kanmon Strait Museum

The Kanmon Strait Museum is close to the waterfront and focuses on the history and culture of the strait between Kyūshū and Honshu. We especially liked that you can go up to the café area for free and enjoy the views.

Even if you don’t spend much time in the museum itself, the building is worth stopping by for the location. The café views make it an easy and low-effort break while walking around Mojiko.

Stop at Retro Mojiko Old Street Museum

Adjoining the Kanmon Strait Museum is The Retro Mojiko Old Street Museum, also known as 海峡レトロ通り, is free to visit and gives you a small glimpse into the town’s nostalgic side. It’s not a huge attraction, but it fits well with the retro theme of the area.

For a short Mojiko itinerary, it’s a good quick stop between the station, wharf and observation area. You can walk quite easily to all three.

Hike to Mt. Kazagashira Observatory

If you want a proper walk, continue towards Mt. Kazagashira Observatory. The hike is worth it for the views over the strait, Mojiko and the surrounding coastline.

It’s a good option if you have an extra half day in town and want to do more than just the retro waterfront. The views from the top made Mojiko feel much bigger and more scenic than it first appeared.

To start, Walk to Kifune Shrine and follow the path and signs up the hill. We like adding small shrines like this to our routes because they break up the sightseeing and give you a better sense of everyday Japan away from the main tourist corners.

Consider the Kyushu Railway History Museum

Mojiko also has the Kyushu Railway History Museum, though we didn’t visit it ourselves. If you like trains, it could be worth adding to your itinerary.

There is even a small train you can drive around, which looked like the kind of slightly odd but fun activity Japan does so well.

Where to Eat in Mojiko

Curry Honpo Mojiko Retro

Mojiko is known for banana curry, and Curry Honpo Mojiko Retro is one of the obvious places to try it. Banana curry sounds strange, but in Mojiko it makes sense because of the town’s banana history.

It’s the kind of local speciality that is definately worth trying once, especially when a place has built so much of its identity around it.

Mojiko Teppan Tiger

We also ate at 門司港鉄板タイガー, or Mojiko Teppan Tiger, a teppanyaki restaurant in Mojiko. It was a good casual meal and a nice option if you want something hot, filling and straightforward after walking around town. It’s right on the waterfront, which makes a great spot for a sundowner.

Mojiko isn’t a huge food destination, but for a short stay, there are enough good options around the retro area and waterfront.

How Long Do You Need in Mojiko?

Mojiko works best as a short stop. We stayed two nights, which felt just right for seeing the retro waterfront, taking in the views and adding a walk up to Mt. Kazagashira Observatory.

1 Night

One night is enough if you arrive early, explore Mojiko Retro, see the station, visit the observation gallery, eat curry, grab aphoto with Bananaman and continue onwards the next day.

2 Nights

Two nights gives you a more relaxed visit. You can add the Kanmon Strait Museum, Kifune Shrine, the hike to Mt. Kazagashira Observatory and still have time to enjoy the waterfront without rushing.

How to Get from Mojiko to Honshu

Mojiko sits just across the Kanmon Strait from Honshu. You can take a ferry across the water, which sounds like the more scenic option, but it isn’t necessarily the cheapest or most practical route.

For us, the easier and cheaper option was to take the train back to Moji, then continue through to Shimonoseki on Honshu. From there, you can connect with the San-yō Line and continue your journey west or east.

If you’re travelling by regional train, Mojiko makes a neat pause before crossing from Kyūshū to Honshu.

Is Mojiko Worth Visiting?

Mojiko is worth visiting if it fits naturally into your route. It’s not a place we’d build an entire Japan trip around, but as a short retro port stop before Honshu, it was charming, easy and memorable.

The old station, banana theme, waterfront views, observation deck, quiet streets and good-value hotel made it a fun break between bigger travel days.

If you’re heading towards Shimonoseki, the San-yō Line or the San-in Line, Mojiko is well worth adding as a relaxed stop along the way. Mojiko made a great stopover point for our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.

23 Day Japan Slow Travel Itinerary by Train

A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.

Is Fukuoka worth visiting? We think so, especially if you want a calmer and less touristy Japan experience before heading deeper into Kyūshū or along the Sanin Line. This Fukuoka travel guide covers where to stay in Fukuoka, things to do in Fukuoka, where to eat in Fukuoka, how long in Fukuoka is enough, and practical tips for visiting Fukuoka.

Fukuoka was the starting point for our slow travel route through western Japan, and it turned out to be a gentle, easy introduction back into the country. Located on Kyūshū, Japan’s southern main island, Fukuoka has everything you want from a Japanese city without feeling overwhelming.

At first glance, it can look like another modern Japanese city: grey buildings, convenience stores, shopping streets, ramen shops and busy stations. But once we slowed down, Fukuoka became much more enjoyable. We found peaceful parks, excellent coffee, friendly neighbourhoods, shrines, castle ruins, easy transport and some seriously good food.

It may not have the obvious drama of Kyoto or Tokyo, but that’s exactly why we liked it. Fukuoka felt practical, relaxed and very liveable, making it a great first stop in Japan or a useful base before exploring more of Kyūshū.

Fukuoka was also the starting point for our 23 day regional train route through western Japan, which followed the Sanin Line from Kyūshū towards Tottori and Okayama.

Why Visit Fukuoka?

Fukuoka is one of the easiest large cities in Japan to enjoy. It has a good metro system, a compact centre, excellent food and a more relaxed atmosphere than many of Japan’s better-known destinations.

The city is especially famous for Hakata ramen, and if you love noodles, you’ll be very happy here. It’s also a great place for coffee, casual restaurants and late-night food, with plenty of places where you can eat well without spending a fortune.

What we liked most was the balance. Fukuoka doesn’t feel like classic tourist Japan: it’s smaller, calmer and far less crowded, with fewer visitors than the country’s big-name cities. One minute you can be eating ramen in the city, and the next you can be walking around Ohori Park, visiting a shrine, exploring castle ruins or taking a boat to a nearby island.

Fukuoka also works well as a starting point for a longer Japan itinerary. From here, you can continue deeper into Kyūshū, head north towards Mojiko and the Sanin Line, or connect easily to other parts of Japan by Shinkansen.

Where to Stay in Fukuoka

We stayed at APA Hotel Fukuoka Tenjin Nishi, which worked well for our visit. The location was convenient for getting around the city, with access to metro stations, restaurants, coffee places and shops nearby.

For most visitors, staying around Tenjin, Akasaka or Hakata makes the most sense. Tenjin and Akasaka are good if you want restaurants, cafés and a slightly more central city feel, while Hakata is useful if you want to be close to the main train station.

If it’s your first time in Fukuoka, we’d choose somewhere with easy metro access. The city is simple to get around, but being near a station makes day-to-day exploring much easier.

Best Things to Do in Fukuoka

Visit Fukuoka Prefecture Gokoku Shrine

Fukuoka Prefecture Gokoku Shrine is a peaceful place to visit if you want a quiet break from the city. It has a large wooden torii gate, open grounds and a calm atmosphere that makes it feel removed from the surrounding streets.

We liked that it didn’t feel overly busy or touristy. It’s the kind of place you can visit without needing a long plan: walk through, slow down for a moment and enjoy the setting.

It also pairs well with a visit to Ohori Park, as both are close enough to combine in the same relaxed morning or afternoon.

Walk Around Ohori Park

Ohori Park is one of the best places in Fukuoka to slow down. The large pond, walking paths and open views make it a lovely place for a gentle wander, especially if you’ve just arrived in Japan and want an easy first day.

It’s popular with locals walking, running, cycling or sitting by the water, which gives the park a nice everyday feel. We always enjoy places like this because they show you how a city actually lives, not just what it offers tourists.

If you want a calm start to your Fukuoka visit, Ohori Park is a good place to begin.

Visit Ohori Park Japanese Garden

Next to the park, the Ohori Park Japanese Garden is worth visiting if you enjoy landscaped gardens and quiet spaces. It’s not huge, but it’s beautifully arranged and makes a peaceful contrast to the city outside. On the hour they flood the small lake with fog which looks incredible.

You’ll find traditional garden design, carefully shaped trees, water features and places to pause rather than rush. It’s the kind of stop that fits well into a slower Fukuoka itinerary.

We wouldn’t build an entire day around it, but combined with Ohori Park and nearby cafés, it makes a very pleasant couple of hours.

Stop at &LOCALS Ohori Park Shop

&LOCALS Ohori Park Shop is a lovely little stop near the park, especially if you want a drink or snack in a peaceful setting. It has that clean, simple Japanese design we always enjoy, and it fits perfectly with a slower day around Ohori.

It’s not a major attraction, but it’s exactly the kind of small place that makes wandering in Japan so enjoyable. Sometimes the best travel moments are just a good drink, a nice view and nowhere urgent to be.

Cross Chamura Bridge

Chamura Bridge is a small but pretty stop while exploring the Ohori Park area. It’s not somewhere you need to go out of your way for, but it adds to the charm of wandering around this part of Fukuoka.

We liked this whole area because it was easy to explore without a strict route. You can move between the park, shrine, garden, cafés and small sights at a relaxed pace. After exploring the Shine, Park, Shop and bridge it’s an easy metro ride back from Ohori Park (Fukuoka Art Museum) Stop ID: K06.

Explore the Korokan Ruins Museum

The Korokan Ruins Museum gives you a glimpse into Fukuoka’s older history and its role as a place of exchange with the Asian mainland. It’s a small museum, but an interesting stop if you want to understand more about the city beyond food and shopping.

Because it’s near Maizuru Park, it’s easy to include while exploring the castle ruins and surrounding green spaces. We wouldn’t call it a must-see for everyone, but if you enjoy history, it’s worth a short visit.

Walk Through Maizuru Park and the Plum Garden

Maizuru Park is home to the remains of Fukuoka Castle, and it’s a good place to walk, especially if you like castle ruins rather than fully reconstructed buildings. The stone walls and elevated viewpoints give you a sense of the city’s past without feeling too formal.

The plum garden is especially nice if you visit during the right season. Even outside peak bloom, this is a pleasant area to wander and a good reminder that Fukuoka has plenty of quieter corners.

Take a Boat Trip to Nokonoshima Island

One of our favourite things to do in Fukuoka was taking the ferry to Nokonoshima Island. To get there, take the ferry from Meinohama Ferry Passenger Terminal, then continue across to the island for a very different side of the city.

Once we arrived, we rented electric bikes and made our way to Nokonoshima Island Park. The entrance fee was ¥1,500 per person. There were also a few cute animals, such as rabbits and goats, which was really nice to see! Aside from the flowers and animals there are shops and restaurants in an old village with traditional Japanese houses. The island felt peaceful and scenic, with sea views, open spaces and a slower pace than the city.

It’s an easy day trip from Fukuoka and a great option if you want a break from urban sightseeing. If the weather is good, we’d definitely recommend adding it to your itinerary.

Where to Eat in Fukuoka

Fukuoka is a brilliant food city. It’s best known for Hakata ramen, but we also found good izakayas, coffee shops, gyoza, sushi and casual places that made eating out easy.

These are some of the places we tried or marked during our stay.

Ippudo Daimyo Branch

If you’re going to eat ramen in Fukuoka, Ippudo is an obvious place to start. The Ippudo Daimyo branch is close to where the original Ippudo story began, and it’s a fun stop if you enjoy ramen history as much as the food itself.

It’s popular, but for good reason. A bowl of rich tonkotsu ramen here feels like a proper Fukuoka introduction. Also head here for lunchtime specials. If you’re super hungry you can usually get a free refill, just ask.

博多珍珍 赤坂店

This was our spicy ramen (Dan Dan noodle) stop in Akasaka. If you want something with more heat and flavour, it’s a good option to add to your food list.

As with many smaller restaurants in Japan, don’t worry too much if English is limited. A little patience, pointing and translation help usually gets you there.

大衆とり酒場 とりいちず 福岡赤坂店

This casual chicken izakaya was a good option for an easy meal in Akasaka. They have great fried chicken and big glasses of cold beer and highballs. It’s a kind of working mans izakaya. Places like this are useful when you want something relaxed, filling and not too expensive.

Fukuoka has plenty of these casual restaurants, which is one of the reasons it’s such an easy city to spend a few days in.

Kadono Uguisu Akasaka

Kadono Uguisu Akasaka is another good food option in the area. It has the kind of local restaurant feel we enjoy when travelling in Japan: casual, atmospheric and focused on good food rather than fuss. The seared tuna pictured above was insane! We highly reccommend you drop in during the day and make an evening reservation. It gets quite busy,

Gyoza Ittetsu

After visiting the Fukuoka Prefecture Gokoku Shrine Gyoza Ittetsu is a good choice if you’re craving ramen and dumplings. Even better if you visit at lunchtime as they have a great special. Japan does gyoza very well, and this is the kind of simple meal that always works after a day of walking around the city.

KURA Sushi

For a cheap sushi fix, KURA Sushi is always useful. It’s not fancy, but it’s fun, affordable and easy, especially if you want a low-effort meal.

Sometimes conveyor belt sushi is exactly what you need.

光珈琲 HIKARU COFFEE

HIKARU COFFEE was one of the coffee stops we enjoyed in Fukuoka. It’s a bit bougie, our iced coffee came in a large wine glass. The city has a good coffee scene, and finding independent cafés became part of our daily routine.

Petrol Blue

Petrol Blue is another good coffee option, it’s also a bar in the evening too. It plays downtempo jazz and leftfield, classic furniture, concrete walls and lots and lots of vinyl. It’s worth adding to your Fukuoka map if you like seeking out hidden cafés while travelling. Note: it’s upstairs, so you have to get in the smoke smelling elevator to get up there.

British Pub MORRIS’ BLACK SHEEP

Sometimes, after a lot of travel, you just want a pub. MORRIS’ BLACK SHEEP gave us that familiar break, and it’s a good option if you fancy a drink somewhere casual in the evening.

How Long in Fukuoka Is Enough?

If you’re wondering how long in Fukuoka is enough, we think most travellers will be happy with two to four days depending on their pace.

We stayed 7 nights in Fukuoka, but that was longer than most visitors need. We used the time to catch up on work, sort photos and ease into our Japan trip before continuing towards Mojiko and the Sanin Line.

For most travellers, 2 to 4 days is enough, depending on how slowly you like to travel.

2 Days

With 2 days in Fukuoka, focus on the city highlights. Spend time around Ohori Park, visit Gokoku Shrine, explore Maizuru Park and the castle ruins, then enjoy ramen and a few casual food stops in the evening.

This is enough time for a quick introduction, especially if Fukuoka is part of a longer Japan itinerary.

3 Days

Three days is a better amount of time for most visitors. You can see the main city sights without rushing and still have time for good food, coffee and a slower afternoon.

With 3 days, we’d include Ohori Park, Maizuru Park, the Korokan Ruins Museum, a few ramen stops and some relaxed neighbourhood wandering.

4+ Days

With 4 days or more, add a trip to Nokonoshima Island. This gives you a completely different experience from the city and makes the itinerary feel more balanced.

If you like slow travel, Fukuoka is an easy place to stay longer. It may not be packed with famous attractions, but it’s comfortable, practical and enjoyable to live in for a few days.

Practical Tips for Visiting Fukuoka

Getting from Fukuoka Airport to the City Centre

One of the best things about Fukuoka is how close the airport is to the city. Getting from Fukuoka Airport to the city centre is quick and straightforward by metro.

This makes Fukuoka one of the easiest arrival cities in Japan. You can land, get through the airport and be in the centre without a long transfer.

Getting Around Fukuoka by Metro

Fukuoka’s metro is simple to use and connects many of the places visitors are likely to need. We used it to move around the city and found it reliable, clean and easy to understand.

If you’re staying near a metro station, you’ll have no trouble getting around without a car.

ICOCA, Suica and IC Cards

IC cards such as ICOCA and Suica make travelling around Japan much easier. If you have an iPhone, you can usually add one digitally to your wallet, which makes tapping in and out very simple.

On Android, it can be more complicated depending on where you purchased your device, so getting a physical IC card may be easier. Once you have one, you can use it for metro journeys, many trains, convenience stores and vending machines.

At the airport head to the Fukuoka Airport Subway Station and use the cash-only kiosks. You can purchase a local IC card (such as Hayakaken, nimoca, or Sugoca) for a minimum of ¥1,500 which includes a ¥500 refundable deposit.

Best Time to Visit Fukuoka

Spring and autumn are generally the best times to visit Fukuoka. The weather is more comfortable for walking, parks are pleasant, and it’s easier to enjoy the city without the heat and humidity of summer.

Spring is especially nice if you catch plum or cherry blossom season, while autumn usually brings milder temperatures and good conditions for exploring. We visited in September and it was HOT!

That said, Fukuoka is a year-round city. If you’re using it as a starting point for a longer Japan trip, it’s still a practical and enjoyable place to begin.

Internet, Payments and Apps

Japan is easy to travel with the right basic tools. We recommend having mobile data, either through an eSIM, pocket Wi-Fi or local SIM, as you’ll use maps, translation apps and transport information constantly.

Google Maps works well for metro and walking routes, while translation apps are useful in smaller restaurants where menus may not be in English.

For payments, Japan is much more card-friendly than it used to be, but it’s still worth carrying some cash. IC cards such as Suica and ICOCA are also useful for transport and small purchases. We use our Wise cards where we can, but Japan is a mostly cash society and you will need cash at almost all ramen stores throughout the country.

Final Thoughts on Visiting Fukuoka

Fukuoka was a great introduction to this part of Japan. It didn’t overwhelm us with major sights, but that was part of the appeal. Instead, it gave us good food, easy transport, peaceful parks, interesting history and a gentle start to our slow journey through western Japan.

We wouldn’t say Fukuoka is the most dramatic city in Japan, but it is one of the easiest to enjoy. It’s relaxed, practical and full of small moments that make travel in Japan so satisfying.

If you’re starting a Kyūshū trip, heading towards the Sanin Line, or simply looking for a Japanese city that feels approachable and liveable, Fukuoka is well worth adding to your itinerary and also made a great starting point for our 23 day slow train route through western Japan.

23 Day Japan Slow Travel Itinerary by Train

A 23 day Japan slow travel itinerary by train, following the San-Yo and San-In Line from Fukuoka to Tottori before heading south to Okayama.