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Latest update: May 2026
We initially planned to stay in Ohrid for just a couple of nights, but kept extending our stay and eventually spent a full week there. It didn’t take long for us to fall in love with this lakeside town. Staying in an apartment near the waterfront, we spent our days walking along the lake, exploring the old town and lingering over coffee while watching daily life go by.
We visited in late November and early December, firmly in the off-season, and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. The crowds had disappeared, the atmosphere was relaxed, and although the weather was mixed, we still had several beautiful sunny days spent sitting outside at cafés overlooking the lake.
One downside of visiting at this time of year is that some restaurants, shops and attractions in the old town close for the season. For us, however, that wasn’t much of a drawback. Most of the closures were in the more tourist-focused areas, and visiting in winter gave us a chance to experience a quieter, more local side of Ohrid.
There really is some magical about Lake Ohrid and I would love to come back to explore more of the area around it.
What to do in Ohrid
Ohrid isn’t a large place, but between the lakeside walks, historic sights and café culture, we had no trouble filling our days.
St. John church
This is probably the most famous sight in Ohrid: a beautiful church perched on a cliff overlooking the lake. It’s easy to see why it has become the town’s most photographed landmark.
We can imagine it gets very busy during the summer months, but during our visit we often had the area almost entirely to ourselves, occasionally sharing it with just another couple or two. Sitting there overlooking the lake in the quiet winter sunshine felt pretty magical.
Walking bridge
A wooden lakeside walkway connects the old town with the path leading towards St. John at Kaneo. We found ourselves returning here again and again, especially in the early morning and late afternoon when the light over the lake was at its most beautiful.
The views along this stretch are some of the best in Ohrid, and there are also a handful of cafés and restaurants where you can sit and enjoy the scenery while watching the boats drift across the water.
Walk around Ohrid Old town
We didn’t spend as much time in the old town as we normally would, mainly because many of the cafés, restaurants and shops were closed for the season. Even so, it was still a lovely area to explore on foot.
The old town is home to several historic churches, narrow cobbled streets and plenty of traditional houses overlooking the lake. It’s the kind of place where it’s worth putting away the map and simply wandering around to see what you stumble across.
One of the sights in the old town is the Ancient Theatre of Ohrid. During our visit it was a peaceful place to sit for a while and take in the surroundings, although we imagine it becomes much busier during the summer months.
The theatre also became a regular stop for us for another reason. A small family of stray dogs had made the area their home, and we often stopped by to check on them during our stay. If they’re still around when you visit, perhaps spare a thought for them. A little kindness, some fresh water or a snack can go a long way.
Green market
Ohrid also has a large local market that is well worth a visit. We enjoyed wandering between the stalls, sampling local produce and picking up fresh vegetables to cook back at our apartment.
It’s a great place to get a glimpse of everyday life in the city and, if you’re anything like us and enjoy visiting local markets when you travel, you’ll probably end up spending longer here than planned.
Surrounding area
There are also plenty of places to visit beyond Ohrid itself, including mountain viewpoints, historic monasteries, lakeside villages and some beautiful scenery around the lake.
We didn’t explore much of the surrounding area, mainly because we didn’t have a car and were perfectly happy spending our time in Ohrid itself. With the lakeside walks, cafés and historic sights, we never felt short of things to do.
Where to eat in Ohrid
One thing that surprised us about Ohrid was just how many restaurants there were. Despite being a relatively small town, we found plenty of places to eat and ended up having several excellent meals during our stay.
The prices were also very reasonable, making it easy to try different cafés and restaurants without worrying too much about the bill. Below are a few of the places we enjoyed and would happily recommend.
Македонска софра (Makedonska Sofra)
This was our first meal in Ohrid, and we enjoyed it so much that we returned several times during our stay. At the time, the restaurant didn’t appear to have an English name, and the staff seemed slightly surprised to see tourists walk through the door.
During the winter months they had a covered outdoor seating area heated by wood-burning stoves, which made it a cosy place to escape the cold. The menu featured traditional North Macedonian dishes, the portions were generous, and the prices were incredibly reasonable. It quickly became one of our favourite places to eat in Ohrid.
The BBQ street
Near the green market you’ll find a street lined almost entirely with barbecue restaurants. We ended up eating here several times, trying a few different places along the way.
Most of the restaurants serve similar Balkan grilled dishes, with generous portions and very affordable prices. If you’re looking for a good, no-frills meal, we can recommend Brioni 2008 and Кебапчиница АДАНА, both of which served tasty food at reasonable prices.
Кебапчиница АДАНА was especially busy at lunchtime on weekends, with tables full of locals enjoying grilled meat, fresh salads and long meals with family and friends. That’s usually a good sign, and it quickly became our favourite of the two restaurants.
The food was simple, tasty and inexpensive, exactly the kind of local place we enjoy finding when we travel.
Restaurant Delikates (permanently closed)
There’s a lot of Greek food in North Macedonia, especially in the areas close to the border. This little greek restaurant in Ohrid was great. We enjoyed lots of food and wine here one rainy afternoon, and the owners were super sweet and helpful. It was also very cheap.
Update May 2026: unfortunately this restaurant seems to be permanently closed now
Kaneo Restaurant
Located right by the lake near St. John at Kaneo, this restaurant enjoys one of the best settings in Ohrid. We expected it to be a bit of a tourist trap given the location, but were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food.
It was more expensive than most of the places we ate in Ohrid, but still good value considering the location and experience. If you’re planning to treat yourself to one special meal while you’re in town, this is a great choice.