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Livia

Indonesia

What Living in Jakarta Taught Me: Lessons from Indonesia’s Capital

by Livia June 14, 2018
written by Livia

I lived in Jakarta for six months while completing an internship with UNDP. It was my first time in Indonesia and only my second time in Asia. Until then, my experience of the continent had mainly been limited to tourist areas in Thailand, so moving to Jakarta was a huge culture shock.

Living in Indonesia’s capital taught me a lot, not just about the country and its people, but also about myself.

Since moving back to Europe, I’ve continued returning to Jakarta whenever I can. Every visit teaches me something new, but these are some of the lessons that have stayed with me over the years.

None of this is based on hard facts or research. These are simply observations and experiences from everyday life while living in Jakarta.

Shopping at Grand Indonesia
Shopping at Grand Indonesia
Work life in Jakarta
Work life in Jakarta

Things Don’t Always Run on a Strict Schedule

As a Swede, I am used to being on time. Usually early.

One of the first things I had to adjust to in Jakarta was that social plans often ran on a more flexible schedule than I was used to. Friends might arrive later than planned, meetings could start a little behind schedule and traffic often had a say in everyone’s plans.

At first I found it frustrating. Eventually, I learned to relax and go with the flow.

Always Allow Extra Time for Traffic

Jakarta’s traffic is legendary.

Fortunately, I could walk to work most days, but whenever I needed to travel across the city I learned to leave earlier than I thought necessary.

Sometimes you’ll arrive far too early. Other times you’ll be grateful you left when you did.

Bring a Sweater

This sounds ridiculous considering Jakarta’s tropical climate, but trust me.

Shopping malls, conference centres, hotels and office buildings often have extremely powerful air conditioning. I once spent an entire day in a conference room wishing I’d brought a jacket.

Even in one of the hottest cities I’ve ever lived in, I regularly carried a light sweater.

Choose Your Air Carefully

One thing I quickly noticed was how different the air quality could feel from one street to the next.

Busy main roads filled with traffic often felt noticeably more polluted than quieter residential streets. Whenever possible, I preferred walking through neighbourhoods and side streets rather than sticking to the main roads.

Not only was the air usually better, but it was also a far more interesting way to experience the city.

People Will Be Curious About You

If you’re a foreign visitor, especially outside the main tourist areas, don’t be surprised if people look at you, say hello or ask to take a photo with you.

In my experience, this was almost always done with genuine friendliness and curiosity. Some of my favourite interactions in Jakarta started with a simple smile or greeting from a stranger.

Dress Conservatively

Jakarta is a huge and diverse city, and you’ll see all kinds of fashion styles.

That said, dressing modestly is generally appreciated, particularly outside shopping malls, expat areas and nightlife districts. It also helps you blend in a little more and avoid unwanted attention.

Check the Ingredients in Beauty Products

This was one of the more unexpected things I discovered.

Many beauty and skincare products in Indonesia contain whitening ingredients, including products that wouldn’t necessarily advertise it prominently to Western consumers. Even some deodorants contain whitening agents.

If that’s not something you’re looking for, it’s worth checking the labels before buying.

Gojek Drivers Are Everywhere

If you’ve spent any time in Indonesia, you’ll know Gojek.

At one point I was convinced the same drivers followed me around the neighbourhood every day. No matter how many times I walked past, someone would ask if I needed a ride.

Nowadays, apps like Gojek and Grab make getting around Jakarta much easier than when I first arrived.

It Is Hot. Very Hot.

And humid. You will sweat. No matter how much you try to prepare yourself, you’ll probably still underestimate just how humid Jakarta can feel.

Jakarta Rewards Patience

This is probably the biggest lesson Jakarta taught me. My first impression of the city wasn’t particularly positive. It felt overwhelming, chaotic and difficult to understand.

But the longer I stayed, the more I appreciated it. I learned to enjoy the food, the neighbourhoods, the atmosphere and the people. Jakarta isn’t a city that immediately reveals its best side, but if you give it time, it has a way of growing on you.

Final Thoughts

Living in Jakarta changed the way I travel. It taught me to slow down, be more patient and look beyond first impressions. It’s a city that many travellers skip, but one that has left a lasting impression on me.

Even after moving away, I continue to return whenever I can. Partly to see friends, but also because Jakarta remains one of my favourite cities in Indonesia.

Further Reading

If you’re planning a trip to Indonesia, you might also enjoy our guide on why Jakarta is worth visiting and our favourite places to eat in the city.

📌 Our friends Aimee and Paul at snaphappytravel.com have a great post about The Best Apps and Websites We Used When Traveling Through Bali which we think will help any traveller visiting Indonesia (not just Bali).

June 14, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

A Quieter Side of Bali: Jatiluwih, Sidemen & Other Places We Loved

by Livia June 10, 2018
written by Livia

There are countless guides to Bali online, most of them focusing on the same beaches, temples and tourist hotspots. This guide is a little different. Instead of covering Bali’s most famous attractions, we want to share a few places that helped us see a different side of the island.

The first time I visited Bali, I didn’t really understand why everyone loved it so much. After spending several months living in Jakarta, Bali felt expensive and far more tourist-focused than other parts of Indonesia I had visited. It wasn’t until I started exploring beyond the busy southern beaches and central Ubud that I began to appreciate what makes Bali special.

If you’re looking for beach clubs, nightlife and backpacker hangouts, you’ll probably love the southern parts of Bali and central Ubud. But if you prefer quieter places, beautiful landscapes and a slower pace of life, there are still plenty of areas where you can escape the crowds.

I haven’t explored every corner of Bali, but these are a few places that have stood out to us over the years.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces

Yes, Jatiluwih is a tourist attraction. However, it feels very different from the much busier rice terraces around Ubud.

The terraces stretch across a huge area, meaning it’s easy to find quiet corners even when other visitors are around. During our visit, we spent much of our time simply walking through the landscape and enjoying the views.

The scenery here is spectacular and, in our opinion, well worth the journey from the more popular parts of Bali.

Man working in his field at Jatiluwih rice paddies
Beautiful Jatiluwih

Ubud Beyond the Centre

We wouldn’t skip Ubud completely. The area is beautiful and there’s plenty to see. The trick is not staying right in the middle of town.

Instead, look for accommodation in the villages and rice fields surrounding Ubud. You’ll still be close enough to visit the attractions, restaurants and markets, but without the traffic and crowds.

During one of our visits we stayed at Hati Padi Cottages, a small property surrounded by rice fields. At the time we were the only guests, and it remains one of the most peaceful places we’ve stayed anywhere in Indonesia.

The property is run by two French owners and a local Balinese woman, all of whom were incredibly welcoming. We spent our mornings drinking coffee while looking out across the rice fields and our evenings watching the sunset over the surrounding countryside.

It was the kind of place that makes you slow down and appreciate where you are.

📌 Looking for even more things to do in Ubud? Our friend Juan from Planet of Adventures has put together a fantastic guide featuring 13 great things to do in and around Ubud.

Not a super traditional Ayam Taliwang, but still really good!
Our cottage at Hati Padi cottages
Beautiful sunsets over the rice fields

The Beautiful Landscapes of Sidemen

Our visit to Sidemen was completely unplanned.

While exploring the island, our driver suggested taking the scenic road through the area and promised it was worth the detour. He was right.

The road winds through rice fields, villages and beautiful mountain scenery. During our visit we watched locals harvesting crops, children walking home from school and farmers working in the fields.

Sidemen has become more popular with travellers over the years, but it still feels far quieter and more relaxed than many of Bali’s better-known destinations.

We only stopped for lunch and a short walk, but it immediately went onto our list of places to stay during a future visit.

Harvest time in Sideman
Children making their way home from school through the rice fields in Sideman

The Sleepy Town of Klungkung

Klungkung was probably the biggest surprise of our trip.

When I told our driver I wanted to visit, he looked at me rather strangely and asked why. He said very few foreign visitors ever requested a stop there.

The reason was simple: one of my friends grew up in Klungkung, and I wanted to see her hometown.

What we found was a charming Balinese town with very few tourists, a beautiful Hindu temple and a busy local market. Life seemed to move at a slower pace here than in the tourist centres further south.

If you’re curious about everyday life in Bali and want to spend some time somewhere that isn’t built around tourism, Klungkung is well worth a visit.

Its location also makes it easy to combine with a trip to Sidemen.

The hindu temple in Klungkung
The Hindu temple in Klungkung

Final Thoughts

Bali may be famous for its beaches, beach clubs and busy tourist towns, but some of our favourite memories come from the quieter parts of the island.

Places like Jatiluwih, Sidemen and Klungkung offer a slower pace of life and a chance to experience a different side of Bali. Even around Ubud, simply staying a little further from the centre can completely change your experience.

If you’re willing to venture beyond the most popular tourist areas, you’ll discover that Bali is much more than Kuta, Seminyak and central Ubud.

June 10, 2018 0 comments
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Bosnia-Herzegovina

Is Banja Luka Worth Visiting?

by Livia February 22, 2018
written by Livia

Banja Luka was our first stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina after arriving by bus from Croatia. On the way, we passed through a police checkpoint and when the officer asked where we were headed, he looked slightly puzzled when we replied, “Banja Luka.” He even asked us why we were going there.

Looking back, we can understand why. Banja Luka rarely appears on tourist itineraries. There aren’t many famous landmarks, the city isn’t particularly touristy, and most visitors head straight for places like Sarajevo or Mostar.

Yet we ended up really enjoying it.

Banja Luka felt very liveable, with leafy streets, a strong café culture and some of the best and cheapest food we had during our month in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s greener, more relaxed and offers a very different side of the country from the destinations most travellers visit. Definitely worth a stop here on a bigger Balkan trip.

If you’re wondering whether Banja Luka is worth visiting, here’s what we enjoyed most and where we recommend eating.

What to do in Banja Luka

There aren’t dozens of must-see attractions in Banja Luka, but there are a few places worth visiting. Combined with the city’s café culture, parks and excellent food scene, there’s more than enough to fill a couple of enjoyable days.

Banja Luka Fort

To be honest, there isn’t much of the fortress itself to see. What remains today is mostly the old walls rather than a grand castle or fort.

We still enjoyed visiting though. We climbed up onto the walls and spent some time watching the river flow past and local life unfold below. It was peaceful, quiet and felt far removed from the city centre.

We visited twice during our stay and had the place entirely to ourselves both times. Best of all, it’s free to visit, making it a great stop if you’re travelling on a budget.

Drink Coffee

You’ll probably find this recommendation in most of our Bosnia guides, but that’s because Bosnia and Herzegovina has a fantastic coffee culture. No matter where you go, you’ll find cafés packed with locals sitting over coffee for hours.

Our favourite coffee stop in Banja Luka was Kafe Bar Kancelarija. It’s a modern coffee bar with friendly staff and excellent coffee (Update May 2026: unfortunately it seems this coffee shop is permanently closed). Finding it can be a little confusing at first, as it’s tucked away behind an office building, but once you know where to look it’s easy enough to find.

Another place we enjoyed was the restaurant inside the fortress grounds, which is also listed in our recommendations below. The outdoor terrace overlooks the river and is a lovely spot to sit with a coffee and watch the world go by. Prices were slightly higher than elsewhere in the city, but still very affordable compared to Western Europe.

Go to Bars

One thing that quickly stood out to us in Banja Luka was how much of daily life seemed to revolve around cafés and bars. From morning coffees to evening beers, the terraces were always full of people meeting friends, chatting and watching the world go by.

One of the best things to do in Banja Luka is simply pick a bar, order a drink and soak up the atmosphere. If you’re feeling ambitious, you could even spend an afternoon or evening hopping between a few of them.

Walking Around Banja Luka

One of our favourite things to do in Banja Luka was simply wander around the city centre and see where we ended up. The city has a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere.

The main pedestrian street is lined with cafés, shops and bars, making it a great place to start exploring. As you walk around, you’ll notice a mix of architectural styles, from Austro-Hungarian buildings and religious landmarks to more modern and Soviet-era architecture.

Two buildings that stood out to us were the Orthodox Cathedral and the nearby mosque, both of which are worth stopping by while exploring the city centre. Neither takes long to visit, but together they help tell part of the story of Banja Luka’s diverse history.

Like much of the city, this isn’t about ticking off major sights. It’s about slowing down, wandering around and enjoying the atmosphere.

Where to eat in Banja Luka

Obelix Grill

Obelix grill restaurant, north of the center is a great Balkan Grill place with affordable prices. This was the cheapest mix grill we had in Balkans, and still very good and made on order. Definitely worth a visit whether your on a budget or not.

Restaurant Kazamat

We really enjoyed this restaurant, and were lucky enough to get a table on a weekend. We had a three course dinner with lots of wine for 60 euros in total (October 2018). It’s not the best food you will have in Bosnia, but the experience was worth it. The restaurant is set inside the fort with stone walls and big wooden tables. There was also a live band that played traditional music. We had a great evening here and would recommend for a visit. Just know that the portions are huge and make sure to book in advance as it most likely will be booked, at least during the weekend.

Kod Muje

There are two Kod Muje in Banja Luka, one next to the mosque and one just over the bridge by the river. It’s the same food and owners so visit either of them. We went to the one next to the Mosque and had some amazing Cevapi.

February 22, 2018 0 comments
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