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Volcanic landscape in the mountains of North Sumatra, Indonesia
IndonesiaTravel Itineraries

North Sumatra Itinerary: Bukit Lawang, Berastagi & Lake Toba

by Livia August 22, 2026
written by Livia

North Sumatra was one of the most varied parts of our Indonesia trip. Within a relatively short distance, we went from trekking through rainforest looking for orangutans to climbing an active volcano for sunrise and relaxing beside the enormous Lake Toba.

We spent around two weeks travelling through the region, but we were moving slowly and stayed much longer in some places than you need to. If you’re short on time, this same North Sumatra route could easily be done in around one week.

Our North Sumatra Route

We travelled between the main stops by taxi or private/shared transfer, which made this route very straightforward without needing to hire a car.

We flew into Medan, travelled directly to Bukit Lawang and then continued south through Berastagi to Lake Toba before returning to Medan.

If you’re following the same route, we’d recommend travelling in this direction rather than returning to Medan between each destination.

Our route looked like this:
Medan → Bukit Lawang → Berastagi → Lake Toba & Samosir Island → Medan

Bukit Lawang: 8 Nights

For a shorter trip: 3 nights

Bukit Lawang was our first stop and also where we spent the most time.

Most people visit for just a couple of days to go orangutan trekking in Gunung Leuser National Park, but we stayed for eight nights and were very happy that we did.

The orangutan trek was the main event. We did a one-day trek with a guide from Green Hill, climbing up and down through the rainforest before returning to Bukit Lawang by river on a raft made from large inner tubes.

But Bukit Lawang was also somewhere we enjoyed simply being. We walked along the river, explored the village and market and spent plenty of time doing very little surrounded by rainforest.

We stayed at three different places during our time here: Sam’s Bungalows, Garden Inn and On The Rocks. On The Rocks was our favourite, right on the edge of the rainforest, where we even had an orangutan and her baby nesting outside our room.

If you’re travelling North Sumatra in one week, we’d give Bukit Lawang three nights. That gives you time to arrive, do a full-day orangutan trek and still have some time to enjoy the village.

Read our full Orangutan Trekking and Bukit Lawang Travel Guide.

Orangutang trekking Bukit Lawang
Views over the rainforest from Sam's Bungalow in Bukit Lawang
River going through Bukit Lawang

Berastagi: 1 Night

From Bukit Lawang, we travelled by taxi to Berastagi.

The journey itself was beautiful, taking us through the increasingly mountainous landscape of North Sumatra.

We stayed for just one night at Nachelle Homestay, where the lovely owners also arranged our Mount Sibayak sunrise hike.

We left while it was still dark and reached the top of Mount Sibayak at around 6:15 am. The hike wasn’t particularly difficult, and at the top we were surrounded by volcanic rock, steam rising from the crater and views across the mountains.

It was surprisingly chilly before sunrise, so our thin puffer jackets came in very handy.

After hiking back down, we stopped at the sulfur hot springs before returning to Berastagi.

One night worked perfectly for what we wanted to do, although you could easily add another if you want to explore more of the surrounding area.

Read about our Mount Sibayak Sunrise Hike and stay in Berastagi.

Sunrise view from Mount Sibayak near Berastagi
Looking into the steaming Mount Sibayak crater in North Sumatra
Volcanic landscape on the Mount Sibayak hiking trail

Lake Toba & Samosir Island: 5 Nights

For a shorter trip: 2–3 nights

From Berastagi, we travelled to Parapat, where we caught the ferry across Lake Toba to Samosir Island.

We stayed for five nights at Tabo Cottages in Tuk Tuk.

Lake Toba is spectacularly beautiful, and we spent one day taking a tour up into the hills of Samosir for views across the lake and surrounding landscape.

Another day, we walked from Tuk Tuk towards Huta Siallagan in Ambarita, where you can see traditional Batak houses and the ancient stone chairs associated with the village’s history. Along the way, we also passed some of the elaborate Batak tombs found across the island.

Despite the scenery, Lake Toba was the place we connected with least on this route. The atmosphere felt a little off to us, and we generally found interactions less warm than we’d experienced elsewhere in Indonesia.

We’re still glad we visited. The landscape and Batak culture make Samosir very different from the other stops on this itinerary, but if we did the trip again, we’d probably spend three nights rather than five.

Read more about our experience in Lake Toba & Samosir Island: Is It Worth Visiting?.

Historic Batak village of Huta Siallagan on Samosir Island
View across the volcanic landscape of Lake Toba
Mountain scenery surrounding Lake Toba in North Sumatra

Returning to Medan

From Lake Toba, we returned towards Medan for our onward journey.

We didn’t actually spend time exploring Medan itself, so we can’t give you recommendations for the city based on our own experience.

However, if you have an extra day or two, you could easily add Medan at either the beginning or end of this itinerary.

We did spend a couple of nights at Hotel Deli River and Restaurant Omlandia when we needed to be closer to Medan airport. It was a very relaxing place to stay, with a pool and even a floating breakfast, and worked well when we didn’t want to head straight into another journey. It’s a bit outside the city and we only used it as a place to relax for a couple of days before leaving. So if you want to explore Medan city, this hotel might be a little far out.

How to Travel Around North Sumatra

We travelled between the main destinations by taxi or shared/private transfer.

This was more expensive than using local buses, but with our luggage it made the route very easy. We could travel directly from Bukit Lawang to Berastagi and then from Berastagi towards Lake Toba without having to return to Medan. It’s easy to arrange with your accommodation.

For Lake Toba, we travelled to Parapat and then took the ferry across to Samosir Island.

Once we’d arrived at each destination, we mostly walked, joined locally organised tours or used local transport when needed.

Don’t judge travel times purely by the distances on Google Maps. Journeys around North Sumatra can take longer than you might expect, so we wouldn’t plan tight connections on travel days.

Can You Do This North Sumatra Itinerary in One Week?

Yes.

Although we spent around two weeks travelling this route, you could comfortably see the main highlights in seven days.

A shorter version could look something like:

Day 1: Medan → Bukit Lawang
Day 2: Orangutan trekking
Day 3: Bukit Lawang → Berastagi
Day 4: Mount Sibayak sunrise hike → Lake Toba
Day 5: Explore Samosir Island
Day 6: Lake Toba / Huta Siallagan
Day 7: Return to Medan

Would we personally travel this quickly? Probably not.

One of the things we enjoyed most about our trip was having time to slow down, particularly in Bukit Lawang. But if you only have one week in North Sumatra, you don’t need to choose between the orangutans, Mount Sibayak and Lake Toba.

If You Have 10 Days or Two Weeks

With more time, we’d keep the same route and simply slow it down.

We wouldn’t necessarily add more destinations.

For 10 days, we’d add a couple of extra nights in Bukit Lawang and another night at Lake Toba.

With two weeks, you can travel at a similar pace to us, although knowing what we know now, we’d redistribute our nights slightly.

We’d happily spend five or more nights in Bukit Lawang, keep Berastagi at one or two nights and spend around three or four nights at Lake Toba.

You could also add a night or two in Medan if you want to explore the city.

What We’d Change

The route itself worked really well.

If we did it again, the main thing we’d change would be how we divided our time.

We’d still stay longer than most travellers in Bukit Lawang. Having several days there beyond the orangutan trek gave us time to enjoy the river, rainforest and village without constantly having something planned.

We’d keep Berastagi as a short stop. One night was enough for us to hike Mount Sibayak and visit the sulfur hot springs.

We’d probably shorten Lake Toba from five nights to around three. We’re glad we visited, but it wasn’t somewhere we felt we needed as much time.

We would add some beach time onto this itinerary, we were thinking of it, but it was quite far and our visa permitted time in Indonesia was running out. But there are many beautiful islands around North Sumatra to visit.

Is North Sumatra Worth Visiting?

Definitely.

The three main stops on this route couldn’t have felt more different.

In Bukit Lawang, we trekked through dense rainforest looking for Sumatran orangutans. In Berastagi, we stood beside the steaming crater of Mount Sibayak as the sun came up. And at Lake Toba, we explored traditional Batak villages surrounded by one of Indonesia’s most impressive landscapes.

You can experience all three in a week, but if you have longer, North Sumatra is also a great place to slow down.

For us, Bukit Lawang was the place we’d happily have stayed even longer, Berastagi was the perfect short stop, and Lake Toba was beautiful even though we didn’t connect with it in quite the same way.

If we were planning the trip again, we’d follow almost exactly the same route. We’d just move a couple of those Lake Toba nights back to the rainforest.

August 22, 2026 0 comments
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Looking out over Lake Toba from Samosir Island in North Sumatra
Indonesia

Lake Toba & Samosir Island: Is It Worth Visiting?

by Livia August 22, 2026
written by Livia

Lake Toba was probably the place we connected with least during our time in North Sumatra.

That’s not to say it isn’t beautiful. It absolutely is. The enormous volcanic lake, green hills and traditional Batak villages make this one of the most distinctive landscapes in Indonesia. But after spending five nights on Samosir Island we came away with mixed feelings.

For some reason, the atmosphere just felt a little off to us. We also found people noticeably less friendly than elsewhere we’d travelled in Indonesia, where we’d become so used to incredibly warm and welcoming interactions.

We’re still glad we visited, though. Lake Toba gave us a completely different experience from Bukit Lawang and Berastagi and introduced us to the culture and traditions of the Batak people.

Traditional Batak houses at Huta Siallagan on Samosir Island
Exploring the countryside on Samosir Island
Mountain scenery surrounding Lake Toba in North Sumatra

Getting to Lake Toba from Berastagi

After hiking Mount Sibayak in Berastagi, our next stop was Lake Toba.

We travelled by road from Berastagi to Parapat, the main gateway for reaching Samosir Island. From there, we took the ferry across Lake Toba to Samosir.

The ferry journey is a lovely introduction to the lake. Once you leave Parapat behind, you begin to appreciate just how enormous Lake Toba actually is, with mountains and green hills surrounding the water in almost every direction.

Most travellers staying on Samosir head to Tuk Tuk, where you’ll find plenty of guesthouses, restaurants and accommodation along the lakeshore.

Ferry from Parapat to Samosir Island on Lake Toba
Crossing Lake Toba by ferry to Samosir Island

Where We Stayed on Samosir Island

We stayed at Tabo Cottages in Tuk Tuk for five nights.

It’s a well-established place with gardens, a pool and a lovely setting beside Lake Toba. There are different accommodation options spread around the property, and it’s an easy base for exploring this part of Samosir.

There’s also a strong German influence, including plenty of German food on the menu, which wasn’t necessarily what we expected to find in the middle of Sumatra!

The location worked well for us because we could spend quieter days around Tuk Tuk and explore parts of the island on foot, while also arranging a tour to see some of the places further into Samosir.

Tabo Cottages beside Lake Toba on Samosir Island
Tabo Cottages beside Lake Toba on Samosir Island
room at Tabo Cottages beside Lake Toba on Samosir Island

Exploring Samosir Island

We spent one day taking a tour further into Samosir and up into the hills.

Getting away from the lakeshore gives you a completely different perspective on the island. The roads climb above Lake Toba, opening up views across the water, surrounding mountains and villages below.

The scenery was probably what we enjoyed most about our time here. Lake Toba is beautiful from the water, but seeing it from higher up really gives you a sense of the scale of the lake and the volcanic landscape surrounding it.

If you’re staying around Tuk Tuk, we’d recommend spending at least one day exploring beyond the immediate area rather than staying beside the lake for your entire visit.

View across the volcanic landscape of Lake Toba
View across the volcanic landscape of Lake Toba
Traditional Batak architecture on Samosir Island

Walk from Tuk Tuk to Huta Siallagan

Another day, we explored independently on foot.

From Tuk Tuk, we walked towards Ambarita and Huta Siallagan, a traditional Batak village and one of the better-known cultural sites on Samosir Island.

The village is known for its traditional Batak houses and ancient stone chairs, which were historically used for meetings and judicial proceedings by local rulers.

The walk itself was part of the experience. Rather than simply travelling directly to the site, we could see more of everyday life on Samosir along the way.

We also passed some of the distinctive Batak tombs and graves found around the island. Batak burial traditions are very visible on Samosir, with elaborate tombs appearing beside roads and around villages. Some are surprisingly large and ornate, while others are older and rather eerie.

After exploring Huta Siallagan, we didn’t particularly fancy walking the whole way back, so we hailed one of the local motorbike taxis for the return journey to Tuk Tuk.

Traditional Batak architecture on Samosir Island
Historic Batak village of Huta Siallagan on Samosir Island
Exploring the countryside on Samosir Island
Traditional Batak graves near Lake Toba
Batak burial site beside the road on Samosir Island

Batak Culture on Samosir Island

One of the most interesting aspects of visiting Lake Toba is learning a little about Batak culture.

Traditional Batak architecture is immediately recognisable, particularly the houses with their dramatic curved roofs. Around Samosir, you’ll see both preserved traditional villages and Batak architectural influences incorporated into newer buildings.

Huta Siallagan gives some historical context to what you’re seeing elsewhere around the island, while the tombs, villages and traditional houses make Batak culture a visible part of travelling around Samosir rather than something confined to a museum.

This was quite different from the other places we’d visited in Indonesia and was one of the reasons we were glad we’d included Lake Toba in our North Sumatra route.

Traditional Batak houses on Samosir Island
Traditional Batak houses on Samosir Island
Tabo Cottages beside Lake Toba on Samosir Island

How Long Do You Need at Lake Toba?

We stayed for five nights, which gave us plenty of time.

That allowed us to spend a day touring further around Samosir, walk to Huta Siallagan and still have time to simply enjoy the lake and our accommodation.

For most travellers, we’d say 2-3 nights would probably be enough to get a good introduction to Samosir Island without rushing.

If you want to explore much more of the island, spend time hiking or simply want somewhere to stay for a while beside the lake, you could easily stay longer.

For us personally, five nights was enough.

Getting from Lake Toba to Medan

Our departure from Samosir was unfortunately not quite as straightforward as our arrival.

We’d arranged a shared taxi back to Medan and arrived at the departure point around 30 minutes early, only to be told that our taxi had already left.

When we questioned what had happened, the man we were dealing with became extremely rude and started shouting at us. It was completely unlike the interactions we’d had almost everywhere else during our many travels in Indonesia.

Eventually another man came and helped us and we made our way onwards in another shared taxi, but it wasn’t a particularly pleasant way to finish our time at Lake Toba.

If you’re arranging a shared transfer back to Medan, we’d make sure you confirm the departure arrangements and pick-up point beforehand. If you have a flight to catch, we’d also leave yourself plenty of extra time rather than relying on a tight connection.

Our Mixed Feelings About Lake Toba

It’s difficult to explain exactly why you connect with some places and not others.

There wasn’t one particular incident that shaped our opinion of Lake Toba. Even before the unpleasant experience when we left, we simply hadn’t felt as comfortable here as we had elsewhere in Indonesia.

We found interactions generally less warm than we’d experienced in other parts of the country, and the atmosphere never quite clicked with us.

That’s obviously a very subjective experience. Another traveller could arrive the following week, meet completely different people and come away feeling entirely differently.

And none of that changes the fact that Lake Toba itself is spectacular.

The scenery, Batak villages, traditional architecture and enormous volcanic lake make it a fascinating place to see while travelling through North Sumatra.

Is Lake Toba Worth Visiting?

Despite our mixed experience, we’re glad we went.

Lake Toba is unlike anywhere else we visited during our time in Indonesia, and Samosir Island offers an opportunity to experience Batak culture alongside some genuinely beautiful scenery.

But we also wouldn’t pretend we loved somewhere simply because it’s a popular destination.

Of the main stops on our North Sumatra route, Bukit Lawang was somewhere we could happily have stayed longer, while Lake Toba was somewhere we were ready to leave.

That doesn’t mean we’d tell other travellers to skip it. Lake Toba is absolutely worth seeing and you may have a completely different experience from us.

For our trip, though, three or four nights would probably have been enough.

August 22, 2026 0 comments
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Hiker at the Mount Sibayak crater near Berastagi, North Sumatra
Indonesia

Mount Sibayak Sunrise Hike: Our Experience in Berastagi, Sumatra

by Livia August 22, 2026
written by Livia

On our Northern Sumatra trip we spent one night in Berastagi, and there was one main reason for stopping here: to climb Mount Sibayak for sunrise.

After several days relaxing in Bukit Lawang, we travelled by taxi through the mountains to Berastagi. The drive itself was beautiful, taking us through the green landscapes of northern Sumatra before reaching the town.

The following morning, we were up long before sunrise and heading towards Mount Sibayak, an active volcano just outside Berastagi.

Getting from Bukit Lawang to Berastagi

We travelled directly from Bukit Lawang to Berastagi by taxi, which was an easy way to make the journey between the two.

It’s also a very scenic drive. As you head towards Berastagi, the landscape becomes increasingly mountainous, with plenty of views along the way.

If you’re travelling through northern Sumatra, combining Bukit Lawang and Berastagi works particularly well. We went from orangutan trekking and rainforest in Bukit Lawang to climbing a volcano in Berastagi, despite the two being relatively close to each other.

North Sumatra volcano views
North Sumatra volcano views

Where We Stayed in Berastagi

We stayed at Nachelle Homestay for our one night in Berastagi and found the owners incredibly sweet and welcoming.

They also offer Mount Sibayak trekking, which made everything very easy. We joined a small group of 3 from the homestay and went with the husband of the family as our guide rather than arranging a separate tour in advance.

With such an early start, being able to organise everything directly where we were staying was particularly convenient. We could simply get up, meet the group and head out together.

Room at Nachelle Homestay in Berastagi

Where to Eat Near Nachelle Homestay

Another advantage of staying at Nachelle Homestay was having plenty of good local food right outside the door.

There are several bakso warungs nearby, where you can try the Indonesian meatball soup you’ll see all over the country. We also ate at Cafe J.Vayona, just a short walk from the homestay.

We were only in Berastagi for one night, so we didn’t explore the wider restaurant scene, but we certainly didn’t need to travel far to find somewhere good to eat.

Cafe J.Vayona near Nachelle Homestay in Berastagi with resident cat
Local food stalls near Nachelle Homestay in Berastagi

Hiking Mount Sibayak for Sunrise

Our hike started well before sunrise while it was still completely dark outside and we reached the top at around 6:15 am, as the morning light was beginning to appear over the surrounding landscape.

We didn’t find the Mount Sibayak hike particularly difficult. There is some climbing involved, but compared with some of the other hikes we’ve done, it was relatively manageable.

Having a guide also meant we didn’t need to think about navigating the trail in the dark. We could simply follow the group and concentrate on the walk.

Trail leading up Mount Sibayak near Berastagi
Volcanic landscape on the Mount Sibayak hiking trail
Volcanic landscape on the Mount Sibayak hiking trail

Sunrise at Mount Sibayak

Once we reached the top, the landscape opened up around us.

Mount Sibayak is an active volcano, and the crater gives the summit a completely different feel from a normal mountain viewpoint. Steam and volcanic gases rise from parts of the crater, surrounded by rugged volcanic rock and mountains in the distance.

It was also noticeably colder at the top than we’d been used to in Sumatra. We wore our thin puffer jackets and were glad we’d brought them, particularly while standing around waiting for the sun to come up.

Watching the landscape slowly appear as the morning light came in was worth the early start.

Even without the sunrise, the volcanic landscape around the crater makes the hike interesting in its own right.

Looking into the steaming Mount Sibayak crater in North Sumatra
Sunrise view from Mount Sibayak near Berastagi
Hikers at the Mount Sibayak crater near Berastagi, North Sumatra

Visit the Sulfur Hot Springs After the Hike

The morning wasn’t quite finished once we’d climbed back down.

On our way back to Berastagi, we stopped at the sulfur hot springs near Mount Sibayak.

After getting up in the middle of the night and hiking up and down a volcano, sitting in the warm water was a very welcome way to finish the morning.

The pools are naturally heated by the geothermal activity around Mount Sibayak, with views of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

If your Mount Sibayak tour includes the hot springs, bring swimwear with you. We’d definitely recommend adding them rather than heading straight back to Berastagi after the hike.

Sulfur hot springs near Mount Sibayak in Berastagi
Natural hot spring pools near Mount Sibayak

Do You Need a Guide to Hike Mount Sibayak?

We hiked Mount Sibayak with a guide arranged through Nachelle Homestay, and for a sunrise hike we’d happily do the same again.

Starting in complete darkness makes navigating an unfamiliar trail more difficult, and having someone who knew the route meant we didn’t have to worry about finding our way.

It also made the whole experience incredibly easy to arrange. We didn’t book a separate Mount Sibayak tour before arriving in Berastagi. We organised the hike through our accommodation and joined a group from there.

If you’re staying elsewhere in Berastagi, it’s worth asking your accommodation whether they can arrange a Mount Sibayak sunrise hike.

What to Bring for a Mount Sibayak Sunrise Hike

You don’t need huge amounts of equipment for the hike, but there are a few things we’d recommend bringing:

  • Comfortable shoes with decent grip
  • A light jacket or thin puffer jacket
  • Water
  • A headtorch or torch
  • Swimwear if you’re visiting the sulfur hot springs afterwards
  • A small towel
  • Camera or phone

Don’t assume that because you’re in Sumatra it will be hot. Berastagi sits at a higher elevation, and before sunrise on Mount Sibayak it can feel surprisingly cool.

How Long Do You Need in Berastagi?

We only stayed for one night, which was enough for what we’d come to Berastagi to do.

We arrived from Bukit Lawang, stayed at Nachelle Homestay, explored a little around the area and got up early the following morning to hike Mount Sibayak. After the hike and a stop at the sulfur hot springs, we continued our journey.

There are other things to see around Berastagi if you want to stay longer, but we didn’t visit them, so we can’t tell you whether they’re worth adding.

If Mount Sibayak is your main reason for visiting, an overnight stop can work well.

Berastagi church
sunrise view from Mount Sibayak near Berastagi

Is the Mount Sibayak Sunrise Hike Worth It?

For us, yes.

We didn’t spend enough time in Berastagi to write a complete guide to the town, but stopping here for one night worked perfectly as part of our journey through northern Sumatra.

The hike wasn’t particularly difficult, the volcanic landscape around the crater was beautiful, and soaking in the sulfur hot springs afterwards was a great way to finish the morning.

After the rainforest and orangutans of Bukit Lawang, spending a night in the mountains and starting the next morning on top of an active volcano gave us a completely different side of northern Sumatra.

If you’re travelling through the region, Mount Sibayak is well worth adding to your route, even if, like us, you only have one night in Berastagi.

August 22, 2026 0 comments
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Indonesia

Orangutan Trekking and Bukit Lawang Travel Guide

by Livia August 22, 2026
written by Livia

Most people come to Bukit Lawang for one reason: to trek into the Sumatran rainforest in search of orangutans.

That was the main reason we came too, but after spending a week here we discovered that Bukit Lawang is also a lovely place to simply stay for a while and relax in nature.

Set alongside the Bohorok River on the edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, the village is surrounded by dense green rainforest. Away from the orangutan trekking, there isn’t a huge list of things you need to see or do, and that’s part of the appeal. We spent our days walking along the river, exploring the village, eating at small restaurants and enjoying being surrounded by nature.

If your North Sumatra itinerary allows it, we’d recommend staying a little longer rather than arriving, doing the trek and immediately leaving again.

How to Get to Bukit Lawang from Medan airport

We flew into Medan, the main gateway to Bukit Lawang and northern Sumatra, and arranged a private pick-up from the airport with our hotel.

The drive from Kualanamu International Airport (Medan) to Bukit Lawang usually takes around 3.5–4.5 hours, depending on traffic.

As you get closer to Bukit Lawang, the busy city streets gradually give way to smaller towns, plantations and increasingly green countryside.

Once you arrive, it’s worth knowing that parts of Bukit Lawang are pedestrian-only. Depending on where you’re staying, you may need to walk the final section to your accommodation with your luggage. As we booked our pick up with the hotel, the hotel staff were there meeting us and helping us with our luggage to the hotel.

Where to Stay in Bukit Lawang

We stayed in three different places during our eight nights in Bukit Lawang, which gave us a good feel for the different accommodation available around the village.

Sam’s Bungalows

Our first stay was at Sam’s Bungalows, towards the end of the village beside the river.

The location is lovely, with the river and rainforest right outside, and we found the staff very friendly. There’s also a restaurant serving good food, so you don’t necessarily need to walk back into the main part of the village whenever you want to eat.

Being towards the end of the village also means you’re away from some of the busier areas.

Rainforest view from Sam's Bungalow in Bukit Lawang
Rainforest view from Sam's Bungalow in Bukit Lawang
Restaurant view from Sam's Bungalow in Bukit Lawang

Garden Inn

We also stayed at Garden Inn, which has beautiful views across the surrounding greenery.

The rooms were quite simple and we found it a little hot and noisy at times as you are more in the middle of the village, but the setting is lovely. If you’re mainly looking for somewhere inexpensive with great views and don’t mind fairly basic accommodation, it can be a good option.

Rainforest view from Garden Inn in Bukit Lawang
Rainforest view from Garden Inn in Bukit Lawang

On The Rocks

Our favourite place we stayed in Bukit Lawang was On The Rocks.

It’s set higher up amongst the trees, right on the edge of the rainforest, so reaching it involves a bit of a walk uphill, but the location is worth the effort.

There are several different types of accommodation at different price points. We stayed in one of the cheapest options, a simple little thatched cottage, and absolutely loved it. The more expensive rooms are beautiful, but you don’t need to spend a lot to enjoy the setting, so there are options for different budgets.

You’re surrounded by rainforest here, and it feels much more secluded than staying down beside the main path through the village. We even had a female orangutan with her baby nesting in the trees outside our room. The food is also good here.

If we returned to Bukit Lawang, this is where we’d stay again.

Thatched cottage at On The Rocks in Bukit Lawang
Mother and baby orangutan in the trees at Bukit Lawang
Thatched cottage at On The Rocks in Bukit Lawang

Orangutan Trekking in Bukit Lawang

Seeing Sumatran orangutans in the wild is the main reason most travellers visit Bukit Lawang.

The village sits beside Gunung Leuser National Park, part of the wider Leuser Ecosystem and one of the remaining places where Sumatran orangutans live in the wild.

You can choose anything from a one-day trek to multi-day jungle expeditions, with longer treks taking you deeper into the rainforest and usually involving camping overnight.

We chose a one-day trek, which was plenty challenging enough for us.

Thomas monkey in the rainforest near Bukit Lawang
Sumatran orangutan in the rainforest near Bukit Lawang
Orangutan trekking in Gunung Leuser National Park near Bukit Lawang

How Difficult Is the Orangutan Trek?

Don’t underestimate the terrain.

The trekking involves a lot of steep ups and downs through humid rainforest. There were sections where we were pulling ourselves uphill using vines and tree roots, followed by steep descents where you really need to watch where you’re putting your feet.

It was tough at times, but also incredibly rewarding. The rainforest itself is beautiful, quite apart from the wildlife you’re there to see.

You don’t need to race through it either. A good guide will adapt the trek to your ability and let you take breaks when needed.

Hiking through the rainforest on a Bukit Lawang orangutan trek
Hiking through the rainforest on a Bukit Lawang orangutan trek

Choosing an Ethical Orangutan Trekking Guide

Choosing the right guide was particularly important to us.

There are rules around encounters with orangutans, including maintaining an appropriate distance and never feeding or touching them. Before booking, we wanted to make sure we went with guides who respected those rules rather than prioritising close-up photographs for tourists.

Most accommodation in Bukit Lawang can arrange orangutan trekking, but you don’t have to book through the place you’re staying. Green Hill is another guesthouse in the village, and although we weren’t staying there, we simply walked over after we arrived in Bukit Lawang and asked about arranging a trek.

We ended up trekking with Randa Armando from Green Hill, who was excellent. He took the trek at our pace, helped us through the more difficult sections and was respectful of the wildlife we encountered.

After later staying at On The Rocks and getting to know the place a little, we would also have been very happy trekking with their guides. If we returned, we’d probably arrange our trek directly through them.

Whichever company or guesthouse you choose, we’d recommend asking about their approach to wildlife before booking. Guides should maintain the required distance from orangutans and shouldn’t feed them, touch them or encourage tourists to get closer for photographs.

Rafting Back to Bukit Lawang

At the end of many jungle treks, you’ll have the option of returning to Bukit Lawang by river rather than walking all the way back.

The “rafting” is done using large inner tubes tied together to create a simple raft.

I was a little hesitant about this part before we did it, but it turned out to be really enjoyable. After hours of climbing up and down through the hot rainforest, getting onto the river was a pretty good way to finish the trek.

You float downstream through the jungle before eventually arriving back in Bukit Lawang.

If you’re unsure about adding the rafting to your trek, we’d do it again.

What Else Is There to Do in Bukit Lawang?

Not much. And we mean that in a good way.

Bukit Lawang isn’t somewhere you need an itinerary packed with attractions. We spent plenty of time simply walking along the river and through the village. You can follow the riverside paths, cross the suspension bridges and walk into the main town away from the more tourist-oriented accommodation beside the national park.

There’s also a small market area by the river, which is worth wandering through while you’re exploring. You can also walk further into the main town, away from the guesthouses and restaurants clustered closer to the national park.

For us, the appeal of staying longer was having nowhere in particular we needed to be. It’s a good place to slow down, read, sit beside the river and enjoy being surrounded by nature.

Bohorok River running through Bukit Lawang
Bukit Lawang village
Bohorok River running through Bukit Lawang

Where to Eat in Bukit Lawang

There are plenty of small restaurants and guesthouse restaurants along the river in Bukit Lawang, so finding somewhere to eat is easy.

We found that many of the menus were quite similar, usually with a mixture of Indonesian dishes and familiar Western options aimed at travellers.

We mostly ate at our accommodation, particularly Sam’s Bungalows and On The Rocks, simply because it was convenient and the food was good. With many of the guesthouses and restaurants spread along the river, there wasn’t much reason to go searching for a particular restaurant every evening.

We wouldn’t come to Bukit Lawang specifically for the food, but there are more than enough options for a stay of several days.

How Long Should You Stay in Bukit Lawang?

Many travellers spend just two or three nights in Bukit Lawang, giving them enough time to arrive, complete an orangutan trek and continue their journey through Sumatra.

We stayed for eight nights and were very happy that we did.

You certainly don’t need that long to see the main attraction, but Bukit Lawang is worth considering as somewhere to slow down for a few days, particularly if you’re travelling for a longer period.

After the trek, having a few days to relax beside the river and enjoy the rainforest without another activity planned was exactly what we wanted.

If you’re on a shorter Indonesia trip, we’d suggest 2-3 nights. If you have more time and enjoy nature, adding a few extra nights gives you the chance to experience Bukit Lawang beyond the orangutan trek.

Staying Near Medan Airport

If your flight times mean you need a night in Medan before or after visiting Bukit Lawang, we stayed at Hotel Deli River and Restaurant Omlandia for a couple of nights.

It was a really relaxing place to stay, particularly after travelling. There’s a pool, plenty of space to unwind and we even had a floating breakfast served in the pool.

Rather than trying to squeeze the journey between Bukit Lawang and the airport around a flight, spending a night or two here made the journey much more relaxed.

Hotel Deli River and Restaurant Omlandia in Medan
Hotel Deli River and Restaurant Omlandia in Medan, near airport
Floating breakfast in pool at Hotel Deli River and Restaurant Omlandia

Is Bukit Lawang Worth Visiting?

If seeing Sumatran orangutans in the wild is something you want to experience, Bukit Lawang is an obvious addition to a Indonesia itinerary.

The orangutan trek was challenging, beautiful and incredibly rewarding, but we also really enjoyed our longer stay in Bukit Lawang, having time to simply walk beside the river, waking up surrounded by rainforest and watching an orangutan and her baby in the trees outside our room.

You can come for the orangutans.

But you might want to stay a little longer for Bukit Lawang itself.

August 22, 2026 0 comments
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A Short Guide to Solo, Indonesia: Palaces, Street Food & Where We Stayed

by Livia August 22, 2026
written by Livia

Solo, also known as Surakarta, is a city in Central Java that often gets overlooked by travellers heading to nearby Yogyakarta. We didn’t spend a huge amount of time here, but we had enough time to explore some of the city, visit one of its palaces and, of course, eat plenty of Javanese food.

Solo (or Surakarta) has a very different feel from Indonesia’s bigger tourist destinations. There are fewer international visitors, plenty of street food and a strong connection to traditional Javanese culture. If you’re travelling through Central Java, it’s an easy place to add to your route for a couple of days.

Where to Stay in Solo

The Royal Surakarta Heritage

We stayed at The Royal Surakarta Heritage, right in the centre of Solo.

The location worked well for our short stay, with plenty of the city within easy reach. The hotel itself has a grand, traditional style with lots of Javanese details throughout the interiors.

For a first visit to Solo, staying centrally made exploring much easier, particularly when we only had a limited amount of time in the city.

The Royal Surakarta Heritage hotel in central Solo
The Royal Surakarta Heritage hotel in central Solo

Things to Do in Solo (Surakarta)

Visit Mangkunegaran Palace

If you only have time for a few sights in Solo, Mangkunegaran Palace (Pura Mangkunegaran) is well worth including.

Built in the 18th century, the palace is particularly interesting because Solo’s royal traditions aren’t simply part of its past. The Mangkunegaran royal family still exists today, and the palace remains their official residence, with the current ruler continuing the Mangkunegaran dynasty.

Parts of the palace are open to visitors, giving you a glimpse into both Solo’s royal history and a tradition that is still very much alive today. The complex combines traditional Javanese architecture with European influences, with large pavilions, courtyards and beautifully decorated interiors.

Allow some time to walk around rather than treating it as a quick photo stop. The details in the buildings, collections and interiors are a big part of the experience.

Traditional Javanese interior at Mangkunegaran Palace
Mangkunegaran Palace in Solo, Central Java
Traditional Javanese interior at Mangkunegaran Palace

Wander Through Central Solo (Surakarta)

Solo is also an interesting city to explore on foot, particularly around the centre where you’ll come across a mix of traditional Javanese buildings and architecture dating from the Dutch colonial period. Old façades, grand public buildings and newer developments sit alongside busy streets, markets and small local businesses.

We enjoyed simply walking around and taking in the architecture between the city’s main sights. It’s another reminder of the different layers of history that have shaped Solo.

Dutch colonial architecture in central Solo, Indonesia

Where to Eat in Solo (Surakarta)

Food was a big part of our time in Solo, from a more formal meal inside the Mangkunegaran complex to eating our way through the city’s street food.

Pracimasana Mangkunegaran

While visiting Mangkunegaran Palace, we also ate at Pracimasana Mangkunegaran, located within the palace complex.

The restaurant serves traditional Javanese dishes in a beautiful setting within the palace complex. It makes a great addition to a visit to Mangkunegaran Palace, particularly if you want to try regional food surrounded by Solo’s royal heritage.

Traditional Javanese food at Pracimasana Mangkunegaran
Traditional Javanese food at Pracimasana Mangkunegaran
Pracimasana Mangkunegaran restaurant in Solo

Try Solo’s Street Food

At the other end of the spectrum, don’t leave Solo without trying some of its street food.

Once evening arrives, food stalls and small roadside eateries appear across the city. This was a completely different experience from eating at Pracimasana and gave us another side of Solo’s food culture. There were plenty on the streets near The Royal Surakarta Heritage hotel.

Rather than searching for particular restaurants, we enjoyed simply walking around, seeing what was being cooked and trying different things along the way.

Street food in Solo, Central Java
Street food in Solo, Central Java

Have a Drink at the Alila Solo Rooftop

For a completely different view of the city, head up to the rooftop at Alila Solo (which would also be a good place to stay, but a little more outside the center).

The hotel is one of the tallest buildings in the city, and its rooftop gives you a fantastic view across Solo and the surrounding landscape.

We came here for drinks rather than staying at the hotel, and it’s a good place to finish the day, particularly around sunset when you can watch the city change from day to night below you.

View across Solo from the rooftop at Alila Solo
Roof top bar in Solo at Alila Solo
View across Solo from the rooftop at Alila Solo

How Long Do You Need in Solo?

For a first visit, we’d suggest one or two full days in Solo.

That gives you enough time to visit Mangkunegaran Palace, explore the centre, try some of the city’s food and spend an evening wandering around without rushing.

If you’re particularly interested in Javanese history and culture, you could easily stay longer and explore more of the palaces, museums and traditional neighbourhoods around the city.

Is Solo Worth Visiting?

Solo isn’t packed with major attractions, and that’s partly why we enjoyed including it in our trip.

Our time here was more about getting a feel for the city: walking around, eating street food, visiting Mangkunegaran Palace and seeing Solo from above with a drink at Alila.

If you’re travelling through Central Java and have a couple of days to spare, Solo is an easy addition to an Indonesia itinerary, particularly if you want to experience somewhere that sees fewer international tourists than nearby Yogyakarta.

August 22, 2026 0 comments
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Best Satay in Yogyakarta: Where to Eat Sate in Jogja

by Sam February 28, 2023
written by Sam

Latest update: June 2026

Yogyakarta, also know as Jogja, was one of our favourite food destinations in Indonesia. From street food stalls to family-run restaurants, we ate incredibly well during our time in the city.

One dish we kept coming back to was satay (or sate), grilled skewers of meat cooked over charcoal and served with a variety of sauces and seasonings. If you’re looking for the best satay in Yogyakarta, these are the places we would recommend.

Ingredients used in Yogyakarta’s Satay

In Yogyakarta you’ll find satay made from chicken, beef, goat and lamb. Many restaurants brush the meat with kecap manis, Indonesia’s sweet soy sauce, while it cooks over charcoal, giving it a slightly smoky and caramelised flavour.

Best Places to Enjoy Satay in Yogyakarta

There are many places to enjoy satay in Yogyakarta, but some of the best places include:

1. Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu

Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu was our favourite satay restaurant in Yogyakarta and the one we’d return to without hesitation. Located around 30 minutes north of the city in the Sinduharjo area, it is best known for its excellent beef satay and a huge dish they call the “Dinosaur Ribs”.

Everything is cooked over charcoal and served with a rich sauce made from the meat juices and kecap manis. The food is fantastic, the service is quick and friendly, and the atmosphere feels genuinely local. It’s well worth the short taxi ride from the city centre.

2. Satay Klathak Pak Pong

Satay Klathak Pak Pong serves various types of satay, including chicken, beef, goat, and lamb. The meat is grilled over charcoal and served with a special sauce made from coconut milk, lemongrass, and other herbs and spices. The restaurant is located in the Klathak area, about 30 minutes south from the city center.

3. Ayam Goreng Jawa Mbah Cemplung

Ayam Goreng Jawa Mbah Cemplung is located in the Prawirotaman area, this restaurant is known for its delicious chicken and goat satay. The meat is marinated in a special blend of spices and grilled over charcoal. The peanut sauce served with the satay is made from roasted peanuts, chili, and other spices, giving it a rich and savory flavor.

4. Sate Kambing Sari Cempe Neng Lia

Sate Kambing Sari Cempe Neng Lia is famous for its lamb satay, which is grilled to perfection and served with a spicy sauce made from peanuts and chili. The restaurant is located in the Tegalrejo area, not far from the city center.

Tips for Eating Satay in Yogyakarta

One thing we quickly learned in Yogyakarta is that no two satay restaurants are exactly the same. Some specialise in beef, others in goat or chicken, and the sauces can vary just as much as the meat. If you’re a fan of grilled food, don’t stop at just one restaurant.

Many of the best satay places are local restaurants rather than tourist attractions, so carrying some cash is a good idea. We also found that satay is often best enjoyed in the evening, when the charcoal grills are firing and the restaurants are full of local families and groups of friends.

Final thoughts

In our opinion, the best satay in Yogyakarta has to be Pak Bayu, not just because of the quality of the food, but also the traditional atmosphere and friendly staff.

That said, Yogyakarta has no shortage of excellent places to eat satay, whether you prefer chicken, beef, goat or lamb. If you’re visiting the city, trying satay should be high on your food list, and hopefully this guide helps you find a new favourite.

If you want to read more about food in Yogyakarta see our previous post ‘Where to eat in Yogyakarta‘

February 28, 2023 0 comments
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6 Traditional Indonesian Dishes You Must Try

by Livia July 20, 2018
written by Livia

Trying to narrow Indonesia’s incredible food scene down to just a few dishes is almost impossible. Most of our favourites happen to be Javanese dishes, which makes sense as we’ve spent most of our time exploring Yogyakarta and Jakarta specifically. Many of our friends live there, and despite several visits, we still feel like we’ve only scratched the surface of what the island has to offer.

Indonesia is one of our favourite countries for food. Every region has its own specialities and local flavours. Whenever we visit a new part of the country, our Indonesian friends always have a list of dishes we need to try. Food is an important part of Indonesian culture, and you’ll never have to go hungry.

Between the two of us, these are the six Indonesian foods we keep coming back to.

1. Bakso

We both absolutely love this simple noodle soup with meatballs. It’s probably our favourite Indonesian dish.

The best bakso is usually found at small street stalls rather than restaurants. We’ve only had it in a restaurant once, and it wasn’t nearly as good. Bakso is especially popular in Central Java, and some of the best bowls we’ve had were around Yogyakarta.

My personal favourite bakso stall is in Mendut, a small town close to Borobudur that we visited while exploring Central Java.. The soup itself isn’t particularly spicy, but every stall will have sambal and kecap manis on the table so you can customise it to your taste. It’s cheap, filling and incredibly comforting.

Bakso-soup
Bakso at it’s best at street stall Pak Min Wonogiri in Mendut.

2. Tongseng

Tongseng has been a favourite of mine ever since my first trip to Indonesia. It was the first street food I tried from a small stall outside my office in Jakarta, and from that moment I was completely sold on Indonesian street food.

This rich and flavourful dish originates from Central Java, particularly around Solo. The broth is made with coconut milk and is traditionally cooked with goat or lamb, although many places also offer chicken. I always choose lamb, while Sam usually goes for chicken.

It’s often quite spicy and packed with flavour. Like bakso, the best tongseng is usually found at street stalls rather than restaurants.

My first even Tongseng

3. Ayam taliwang

Indonesia does chicken dishes exceptionally well, and Ayam Taliwang is one of Sam’s favourites.

Originally from Lombok, this grilled chicken dish is coated in a spicy chilli-based sauce that packs a serious kick. Unlike bakso and tongseng, Ayam Taliwang is more commonly found in restaurants and warungs rather than street stalls.

If you enjoy spicy food, this is one dish you shouldn’t miss.

Not a traditional Ayam Taliwang, but still really good!

4. Sate

You can’t travel around Indonesia without encountering sate stalls.

Depending on where you are in the country, the meat on offer will vary. In Bali and parts of eastern Indonesia you’ll often find pork, chicken or fish sate, while on Java you’ll commonly see chicken, beef and goat.

Sate is one of Indonesia’s ultimate street foods. It’s inexpensive, widely available and almost always delicious. Whether served with peanut sauce or sweet kecap manis, it’s a dish we never get tired of eating.

If you’re visiting Yogyakarta, we’ve also put together a guide to our favourite places to eat sate in the city.

5. Nasi uduk

Nasi Uduk isn’t really a dish on its own. Instead, it’s fragrant rice cooked with coconut milk and spices.

You’ll often see Nasi Uduk Komplit on menus, where the rice is served alongside chicken, tempeh, eggs and various side dishes. The dish originates from Jakarta but can now be found throughout Indonesia.

I’m a huge fan of rice in general, but Nasi Uduk is in a league of its own. The coconut flavour and aromatic spices make it one of my favourite Indonesian comfort foods.

6. Sambal

Sambal is the reason Indonesian food is never boring.

At its simplest, sambal is a chilli-based sauce, but there are countless regional variations throughout the country. Every city, island and family seems to have their own version.

One of my favourites is Sambal Colo-Colo from Maluku. It’s traditionally served with fish, but works just as well with chicken. We love trying different sambals whenever we travel around Indonesia, and honestly, we could probably write an entire article just about sambal.

Three different types of sambal at restaurant Bebek Bengil, in Jakarta.
Three different types of sambal at restaurant Bebek Bengil, in Jakarta.

Conclusion

Indonesia is one of our favourite countries in the world for food. Every region offers something different, and even after multiple trips we still discover new dishes and flavours.

If it’s your first visit, start with bakso, tongseng, sate and nasi uduk. Then follow the locals’ recommendations and be adventurous. Some of our best meals in Indonesia have come from random roadside stalls that never appeared in any guidebook.

July 20, 2018 0 comments
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What to Do in Borobudur: Hidden Gems Beyond the Temple

by Livia July 14, 2018
written by Livia

Latest update: June 2026

When most people think of Borobudur, they think of the famous temple. And for good reason. It’s one of Indonesia’s most impressive landmarks and well worth visiting, especially at sunrise. It’s also a place that holds special memories for us, as it’s where Sam proposed to me.

We’ve visited Borobudur three times now and, while the monument is undoubtedly the main attraction, it’s the surrounding villages, friendly locals and fantastic food that keep drawing us back.

Most visitors only stay long enough to watch the sunrise and explore the site before moving on. We did the same on our first visits, but after spending more time in the area, we’ve come to appreciate everything beyond Borobudur just as much.

Borobudur Temple at Sunrise

If you’re visiting Borobudur for the first time, we highly recommend doing a sunrise tour. Watching the sun rise over the mist-covered landscape of Central Java is a memorable experience and one of the reasons the temple has become so famous.

Yes, it can be busy, but we still think it’s worth it. The temple itself is magnificent, and the views across the surrounding countryside are beautiful.

One thing worth checking before your visit is whether visitors are currently allowed to climb the temple. During our three visits, we were able to go up onto the monument twice, as the rules have changed several times over the years.

If reaching the top is important to you, make sure to check the latest regulations before travelling. That said, we still think Borobudur is worth visiting even if access to the upper levels is restricted.

Explore the Villages Around Borobudur

One of our favourite things to do around Borobudur is simply wander through the villages surrounding the temple. The area is incredibly green, peaceful and full of friendly people.

Don’t be afraid to leave the main tourist areas behind and explore the small back roads. During our walks we stumbled across local festivals, small coffee shops and plenty of everyday village life. Even if you don’t share a language, a smile and a few words of Bahasa Indonesia go a long way.

For us, this is where the real charm of Borobudur lies.

Explore by Bicycle

Another great way to see the area is by bicycle. Many hotels and guesthouses offer rentals, making it easy to explore the countryside at your own pace.

Our only advice? Don’t do what we did and head out in the middle of the day. The Central Java sun is no joke, and I somehow managed to sunburn my hands for the first time in my life.

Visit Mendut Temple

While Borobudur gets most of the attention, don’t miss nearby Mendut Temple. Many visitors stop here on their way to or from Borobudur, but it’s worth taking the time to explore properly.

The temple itself is small, consisting of a single chamber, but inside you’ll find an impressive seated Buddha statue. The atmosphere is peaceful and it offers an interesting contrast to its much larger neighbour.

Inside Mendut temple

Where to Eat Like a Local

We had some of the best food we’ve ever eaten in Indonesia around Mendut, particularly Bakso and Tongseng. If you’re interested in Indonesian food, this area is worth visiting for the restaurants alone.

Bakso & Mie Ayam Pak Min Wonogiri

This small street-stall-style restaurant serves the best Bakso I’ve eaten in Indonesia so far. We ended up having lunch here almost every day during one of our stays.

A bowl costs very little, but the flavour is incredible. Don’t be put off by the simple interior. We ate here many times without any issues, and the staff were always friendly and welcoming despite speaking very little English.

Rumah Makan Sate Dan Tongseng Mbak Ning

Possibly the best Tongseng in the area.

This is another very local restaurant where the focus is entirely on the food. The sate is grilled to order, the portions are generous and the prices are extremely affordable.

Making Sate

Nak Djadi

Nak Djadi serves both Tongseng and Sate and is slightly more polished than some of the other local restaurants nearby.

The owner was incredibly friendly and came over to make sure we enjoyed our meal, which we definitely did. It may be slightly more expensive than some of the other options in the area, but by Western standards it is still very affordable.

How Long Should You Stay?

Most visitors stay for a single night, but we think Borobudur deserves at least two or three nights if your itinerary allows.

That gives you enough time to visit the temple, explore the surrounding villages, enjoy the local food and experience a slower side of Java that many travellers miss.

Where to Stay near Borobudur

There are plenty of accommodation options around Borobudur, ranging from simple guesthouses to luxury resorts and we’ve stayed in several different places around Borobudur over the years, ranging from simple resorts to luxury villas.

Manohara BCC

If your main goal is to visit the temple and catch the sunrise, then Manohara BCC is hard to beat. Located within the Borobudur complex itself, it offers unmatched convenience and is perfect for a short one-night stay focused on the temple.

Amata Borobudor Resort

For travellers looking for a comfortable mid-range option, we enjoyed our stay at Amata Borobudur Resort. It offers excellent value for money, friendly staff and a peaceful setting surrounded by nature. We stayed here for almost a week and loved our time at this small resort and it’s also close to all the restaurants we recommend here.

Plataran Heritage Borobudur

We’ve also stayed at Plataran Heritage Borobudur, a luxury hotel located a short distance from the temple. The property offers spacious rooms, beautiful views and excellent service. If you’re looking for a more upscale hotel experience, this is a fantastic choice.

Plataran Borobudur Villas

For something truly special, we stayed at Plataran Borobudur’s private villas. This was easily one of the most luxurious places we’ve stayed in Indonesia. The villas offer privacy, beautiful surroundings and exceptional service, making them perfect for a special occasion or a relaxing getaway. This is one of our favorite hotels we’ve ever stayed at.

The pool at Amata Resort Borobudur
Plataran Heritage Borobudor
Plataran private villa

Is Borobudur Worth More Than a Day Trip?

Borobudur may be famous for its temple, but for us the real magic lies in the surrounding countryside. The villages, local restaurants and warm hospitality are what keep bringing us back.

If you have the time, stay a little longer, wander beyond the main tourist areas and see a different side of Borobudur. You might find, like we did, that the area becomes one of your favourite places in Indonesia.

July 14, 2018 0 comments
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Where to Eat in Yogyakarta: Our Favourite Restaurants & Cafés

by Sam July 14, 2018
written by Sam

Latest update: June 2026

Yogyakarta has some of our favourite food in Indonesia. Over several visits we have eaten our way through both the busy streets of central Yogyakarta and the quieter villages north of the city towards Mount Merapi.

From traditional Javanese restaurants and roadside satay stalls to modern coffee shops overlooking rice fields, there is no shortage of great places to eat. Some of our favourite discoveries were found completely by accident, while others became regular stops that we returned to again and again.

In this guide you’ll find our favourite restaurants, cafés and local food spots in Yogyakarta, organised by area to help you decide where to eat whether you’re staying in the city centre or exploring the countryside around Merapi.

One local speciality you should definitely try is Gudeg. This traditional Yogyakarta dish is made from young jackfruit slowly cooked in coconut milk and palm sugar. The result is a unique sweet and savoury stew that is unlike anything else in Indonesia. You’ll find Gudeg restaurants throughout the city, and whether you love it or not, it’s an essential part of the Yogyakarta food experience.

Travel Tip: Never walk past a long queue at a street food stall without stopping to investigate. If it smells good, looks good and dozens of locals are waiting for a plate, there’s a good chance you’ve just found one of the best meals in town.

Central Yogyakarta

Most visitors spend the majority of their time in central Yogyakarta, and for good reason. The area around Malioboro, Prawirotaman and the city’s main attractions is packed with restaurants, cafés and street food stalls.

Waroeng SS

Waroeng SS became one of our first food discoveries in Yogyakarta and remains one of our favourites. There are a couple of locations around Yogyakarta.

The restaurant specialises in sambal, Indonesia’s famous chilli condiment, and offers an incredible variety of different versions. The menu follows the traditional Indonesian style of ordering multiple dishes to share, allowing you to sample a wide range of flavours.

If you enjoy spicy food, this is a must-visit.

Bakso Pak Teguh

Bakso is one of Indonesia’s most popular comfort foods, and Bakso Pak Teguh is a great place to try it. I don’t know how many times we went here during our stay at Adhisthana Hotel, it was just next door and such good food.

The menu focuses on meatball soups and other Indonesian favourites. It may not look fancy, but the food is delicious and the restaurant is usually filled with locals.

Sate Taichan Senayan Yogya

We discovered this place completely by accident after noticing a large crowd of locals gathered around a row of grills.

The menu is simple, focusing mainly on chicken satay served with a spicy sambal. The satay was excellent and easily some of the best chicken satay we have eaten in Indonesia.

For more satay tips read our guide on the best satay in Yogyakarta.

Warung Heru

Warung Heru, near Via Via is also a traveler’s favorite. Good Indonesian food but made for foreigners and not locals. Still a great choice in the area.

Via Via Jogja

Via Via is one of Yogyakarta’s best-known restaurants and has been popular with travellers for years. The menu combines Indonesian dishes with international favourites, making it a good option if you’re travelling with a group that can’t agree on what to eat.

The relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff make it a great place to spend an evening after a day of exploring the city.

Tuang Jaka Coffee

Near Taman Sari you find Tuang Jaka Coffee, a great spot for escaping the heat and enjoying a good cup of coffee while watching daily life pass by outside.

Indonesia produces some of the world’s best coffee and Yogyakarta has a thriving café scene. This was one of our favourite spots in the city centre.

Northern Yogyakarta & Mount Merapi Area

If we could only recommend one restaurant in Yogyakarta, this would probably be it.

Located north of the city, Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu serves some of the best satay we have eaten anywhere in Indonesia. The speciality here is beef satay, cooked over charcoal and served with a rich, flavourful sauce. They are also known for their giant beef ribs, sometimes nicknamed “Dinosaur Ribs” by visitors.

Despite being a little outside the city centre, the restaurant is popular with both locals and visitors. The service is quick, the prices are reasonable and everything we have tried here has been excellent.

If you’re planning a trip to Yogyakarta, this is one place we would happily go out of our way to visit.

For more information, read our full guide to the best satay in Yogyakarta.While central Yogyakarta has plenty of excellent restaurants, many of our favourite food experiences happened north of the city towards Mount Merapi.

We stayed in this area for almost a month and absolutely fell in love with it. The atmosphere here is completely different. Rice fields replace busy streets, temperatures are slightly cooler and meals often come with views of the surrounding countryside.

Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu

If we could only recommend one restaurant in Yogyakarta, this would probably be it.

Located north of the city, Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu serves some of the best food we have eaten anywhere in Indonesia. The speciality here is beef satay, cooked over charcoal and served with a rich, flavourful sauce. They are also known for their giant beef ribs, also called “Dinosaur Ribs”.

Despite being a little outside the city centre, the restaurant is popular with both locals and visitors. The service is quick, the prices are reasonable and everything we have tried here has been excellent. We stayed near this restaurant for almost a month and went countless times.

If you’re planning a trip to Yogyakarta, this is one place we would happily go out of our way to visit.

For more information, read our full guide to the best satay in Yogyakarta.

Oppio

Oppio combines good coffee, food and beautiful views in the middle of a rice field, making it one of our favourite cafés in the area. The architecture reminded us of Greece, such a surprise in this part of Yogyakarta.

Kopi Brug Londo

This café sits in a beautiful location and is well worth visiting for both the scenery and the coffee. We visited this place multiple times. The rooftop has beautiful views over the rice fields as well as Merapi. The owners made us feel super welcome.

Kopi Gajah Tengklek

Another excellent local coffee stop that perfectly captures the slower pace of life north of Yogyakarta. It’s situated in garden with a lake in the middle with multiple seating areas.

Mato Kopi Jakal

Beautiful restaurant and cafe with excellent coffee and a relaxed atmosphere. It’s a great place to spend a few hours working, reading or simply enjoying the surroundings.

Oppio
Kopi Brug Londo

Further North Towards Merapi

Some of our favourite cafés were found even further north, where rice fields, villages and views of Mount Merapi dominate the landscape.

Soto & Sop Mas Poer Pasar Pakem

This became one of our favourite local restaurants north of Yogyakarta.

The restaurant specialises in traditional Indonesian soups and stews and offers an authentic local experience away from the city’s main tourist areas. The food is simple, comforting and full of flavour.

WARUNG MAKAN PAK JAN

Warung Makan Pak Jan is another fantastic local place, located towards Mount Merapi, they served amazing tongseng and satay. It’s just a small house where they cook and have a few tables. Our favorite kind of places in Indonesia.

We stopped here several times and always enjoyed the food. The relaxed atmosphere and consistently good cooking made it one of our regular lunch spots whenever we stayed in the area.

Warung Kopi Klotok

Lovely place surrounded by countryside serving traditional Indonesian dishes and great coffee. The restaurant is often busy with local families and visitors, which is usually a very good sign.

Amurwa Garden & Resto

Great relaxed place by the road towards Merapi. Friendly service and a mix of Indonesian and western cuisine.

Our Favourite Area for Food

While central Yogyakarta has plenty of excellent restaurants, we found ourselves returning again and again to the northern areas around Mount Merapi.

The combination of local restaurants, coffee shops, rice fields and mountain views created a completely different atmosphere from the city centre. Some of our most memorable meals in Yogyakarta were enjoyed here, often with a view of the surrounding countryside rather than busy city streets.

If you’re staying in Yogyakarta for more than a couple of days, we highly recommend spending some time exploring this part of the region. You may end up loving it as much as we did.

July 14, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

Yogyakarta Travel Guide: What to Do, Where to Stay & Why We Love It

by Livia July 13, 2018
written by Livia

Latest update: June 2026

Yogyakarta, Yogya or Jogja (a beloved city has many names) is one of our favourite places in Indonesia. Over several visits we have stayed in the city centre, the northern suburbs and the countryside near Mount Merapi. While many travellers only spend a night or two here on their way to Borobudur or Merapi, we think Yogyakarta deserves much longer.

Beyond the famous temples and attractions, Yogyakarta has excellent food, great coffee shops, friendly locals and a relaxed atmosphere that keeps drawing us back. This guide combines our favourite experiences, places to stay and practical tips for visiting the city.

How Many Days Should You Spend in Yogyakarta?

Many visitors only stay for two or three nights before heading to Borobudur or continuing their trip through Java.

We think Yogyakarta deserves at least three to five days. This gives you enough time to explore the city, visit Borobudur and Prambanan, enjoy the local food scene and spend some time exploring the quieter areas north of the city near Mount Merapi.

If you enjoy cafés, local culture and slower travel, you could easily stay even longer.

Where to Stay in Yogyakarta

One of the reasons we love Yogyakarta is that every area feels different.

Central Yogyakarta

For first-time visitors, staying in the city centre makes the most sense. Most attractions, restaurants and cafés are within easy reach.

We stayed at Adhisthana Hotel, a colourful boutique hotel with a great atmosphere and a convenient location for exploring the city. We have also stayed at Ibis Styles Yogyakarta, which is on Malioboro street, so if you want to be in the middle of all the action, that’s a perfect spot.

Northern Yogyakarta & Mount Merapi Area

Over several visits we found ourselves staying north of the city towards Mount Merapi. While it takes a little longer to reach attractions such as Malioboro and Taman Sari, we quickly fell in love with this part of Yogyakarta.

The area is greener, quieter and noticeably cooler than the city centre. Rice fields, villages, coffee shops and local restaurants replace the busy traffic found in central Yogyakarta, making it an excellent choice for longer stays.

We stayed at both Villa Wirahita and a private Airbnb ca 30 min north of Yogyakarta center in the area and would happily return to either. Some of our favourite restaurants and cafés in Yogyakarta were also located here.

If you’re looking for a more relaxed side of Yogyakarta while still being within easy reach of the city’s attractions, this would be our top recommendation.

Villa Wirahita
Villa Wirahita
Adhisthana Hotel
Adhisthana Hotel
Airbnb
Airbnb

Which Area Did We Prefer?

If it is your first visit, we would recommend staying in central Yogyakarta for a few nights.

However, for longer stays we preferred the northern areas towards Mount Merapi. The rice fields, cafés, local restaurants and slower pace of life suited us much more than the busy city centre.

Best Things to Do in Yogyakarta

Explore Malioboro street

Malioboro is the heart of Yogyakarta and one of the first places most visitors end up. The street is lined with shops, food stalls, street performers and souvenir stores, making it a lively place to spend an afternoon or evening.

This is also where you’re most likely to be approached by locals. Some people simply want to practise their English or ask where you’re from, while others may invite you to visit a batik gallery or souvenir shop. Unlike in many tourist destinations, these conversations are usually friendly and good-natured.

If you’re looking for souvenirs, Hamzah Batik is one of the easiest places to browse. The lower floors are filled with batik clothing while the upper floors stock traditional Indonesian souvenirs, handicrafts and gifts. Even if you don’t plan on buying anything, it’s worth having a look around.

Malioboro can be busy, especially in the evenings, but it remains one of the best places to experience the energy of the city.

Malioboro
Malioboro

Visit Taman Sari (the Watercastle)

Also known as the Water Castle, Taman Sari was once a royal garden and bathing complex used by the Sultan of Yogyakarta. Today it is one of the city’s most interesting historical sites, with hidden courtyards, underground passages and beautiful architecture.

The area around Taman Sari is also worth exploring. Small alleyways, local homes, workshops and street art can be found throughout the surrounding neighbourhoods, making it a great place to wander for a few hours.

Taman Sari
Taman Sari
Taman Sari

Batik Shopping

Yogyakarta is one of the best places in Indonesia to learn about and buy batik.

You will quickly notice people on the streets, especially around Malioboro, offering to guide you to batik galleries and workshops. Many receive a commission for doing so, which can sometimes affect the prices.

The gallery contains thousands of batik paintings created by artists of different skill levels. Visitors can watch the artists at work and learn more about the traditional batik-making process.

One place we particularly enjoyed visiting was Purnomo Batik Art Group.

The staff have always been welcoming and happy to explain the artwork without putting pressure on visitors to buy anything.

Batik Art
Batik Art

Explore the Street Art Scene

Street art can be found throughout Yogyakarta, but some neighbourhoods have far more than others.

One of our favourite areas is around the Cemeti Institute for Art and Society. The surrounding streets and residential alleys are filled with murals, graffiti and creative artwork by both local and visiting artists.

The best way to explore is simply to wander. Pick a direction and follow whichever alleyway catches your eye. Some of our favourite discoveries happened when we accidentally got lost.

Street Art
Street Art
Street Art

Visit Borobudur

No visit to Yogyakarta would be complete without a trip to Borobudur. Located about an hour from the city, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is the largest Buddhist temple in the world and one of Indonesia’s most famous attractions.

Many visitors make the journey as a quick day trip, but we think the surrounding area deserves more attention. Beyond the temple itself you’ll find small villages, beautiful countryside, local restaurants and some excellent places to stay.

We’ve visited Borobudur several times over the years and even got engaged there. If you’re planning a visit, make sure to read our full guide to What to Do in Borobudur: Hidden Gems Beyond the Temple.

Borobudur
Borobudur

Explore Northern Yogyakarta

While most visitors spend their time in the city centre, some of our favourite experiences have been north of Yogyakarta towards Mount Merapi.

The atmosphere here feels completely different. Busy streets give way to rice fields, small villages and winding country roads. The temperatures are slightly cooler and the pace of life feels much slower than in the city.

This area is home to some fantastic cafés and restaurants, including Warung Kopi Klotok, Soto & Sop Mas Poer Pasar Pakem, Warung Makan Pak Jan, Amurwa Garden & Resto, Oppio, Mato Kopi Jakal and Kopi Brug Londo.

Whether you’re looking for a scenic lunch, a quiet coffee shop or simply a chance to see a different side of Java, northern Yogyakarta is well worth exploring. In fact, if we return to Yogyakarta again, this is where we would choose to stay.

Mount Merapi
Mount Merapi
Mount Merapi

Where to Eat in Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta has some of our favourite food in Indonesia. Whether you’re looking for traditional Javanese dishes, local street food or modern cafés, there is no shortage of great places to eat.

In the city centre we enjoyed places such as Via Via Jogja, Warung Heru, Bakso Pak Teguh and Venos Burgers. North of the city, towards Mount Merapi, we found some of our favourite restaurants and coffee shops in all of Java.

For more recommendations, read our full guide to where to eat in Yogyakarta.

restaurants in Yogyakarta
restaurants in Yogyakarta
restaurants in Yogyakarta

Getting to Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta is one of the easiest cities to reach in Java. The city has its own airport and is well connected by train and bus to destinations across Indonesia.

Our favourite way to arrive is by train from Jakarta. The journey is comfortable, affordable and offers some fantastic views across the Javanese countryside.

Read our guide to travelling from Jakarta to Yogyakarta by train.

Why We Love Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta is one of those places we keep returning to. While many travellers visit for Borobudur or Mount Merapi, we found ourselves staying longer each time.

Between the friendly locals, excellent food, creative atmosphere and the beautiful countryside north of the city, Yogyakarta offers far more than just a collection of famous attractions.

If it’s your first visit to Indonesia, Yogyakarta should be high on your list. And if you find yourself extending your stay, don’t be surprised. We did too.

July 13, 2018 0 comments
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