Indonesia

Latest update: June 2026

If you search for Jakarta travel advice online, you’ll quickly find plenty of people telling you to skip it.

Many travellers only pass through Jakarta on their way to Bali or other destinations in Indonesia. Some never leave the airport at all.

We completely disagree.

After living in Jakarta and returning many times over the years, it remains one of our favourite cities in Indonesia. It’s not a city that immediately reveals its charm. In fact, my first impression wasn’t particularly positive. But once I started exploring beyond the main roads and shopping malls, I discovered a side of Jakarta that most visitors never see.

Jakarta certainly has its challenges. The traffic can be frustrating, the heat can be intense and it isn’t a city designed around tourism. But that’s also part of what makes it interesting. Jakarta feels real. It’s a city where people live, work, eat and socialise, and spending time there offers a fascinating glimpse into modern Indonesia.

These are some of the reasons we think Jakarta is worth visiting.

The People

One of the things we love most about Jakarta is the people.

Indonesians are incredibly friendly in general, but Jakarta has its own atmosphere. Unlike some tourist destinations, you’re rarely hassled by sellers or tour operators. Instead, people are often simply curious. Don’t be surprised if someone starts a conversation, asks where you’re from or wants to take a selfie with you.

Most interactions feel genuine rather than transactional, and that makes a huge difference.

The Atmosphere

Jakarta isn’t traditionally beautiful.

You won’t find endless historic streets, famous viewpoints or postcard-perfect scenery. The beauty of Jakarta lies elsewhere.

For us, it’s the atmosphere. Despite being one of the largest cities in the world, Jakarta often feels surprisingly relaxed. People still stop to chat, food vendors gather on street corners and neighbourhood life unfolds everywhere around you.

It’s difficult to explain until you’ve experienced it yourself, but Jakarta has an energy that keeps drawing us back.

Walking Around

This may sound strange, but one of our favourite things to do in Jakarta is simply walk.

Most visitors spend their time moving between malls, hotels and attractions by taxi or ride-sharing apps. While that’s understandable, it also means they miss a lot of what makes the city interesting.

Choose a neighbourhood and explore on foot. Wander down side streets, stop at local food stalls, browse small shops and watch daily life unfold around you.

Some of our best memories of Jakarta come from completely unplanned walks through neighbourhoods we knew nothing about.

The Food

ndonesia has some of the best food in the world, and Jakarta is one of the best places in the country to experience it.

Because people from all over Indonesia live in the capital, you’ll find dishes from almost every region. Whether you’re looking for street food, traditional warungs, modern cafés or fine dining restaurants, Jakarta has something for every budget.

Don’t be afraid to eat where the locals eat. Some of our favourite meals in Jakarta have come from tiny roadside stalls and family-run restaurants.

For more inspiration, check out our guide to Indonesian food and our favourite places to eat in Jakarta.

The Diversity

Jakarta really does have something for everyone.

You can spend the morning in a luxury hotel, have lunch at a street-side warung and finish the evening at a rooftop bar overlooking the skyline.

Modern skyscrapers stand next to traditional neighbourhoods. Expensive shopping malls sit beside bustling local markets. The city constantly changes depending on where you are, and exploring those contrasts is part of the experience.

Few cities in Southeast Asia offer such a wide range of experiences in one place.

For more specific tips on what to do in Jakarta, check out this blog post.

Jakarta Isn’t for Everyone

Let’s be honest: Jakarta won’t appeal to every traveller.

If you’re looking for beaches, rice terraces or quiet tropical scenery, you’ll probably enjoy other parts of Indonesia more.

But if you enjoy cities, food, people-watching and experiencing everyday life, Jakarta can be incredibly rewarding. It’s a destination that requires a little patience, but those who give it a chance are often surprised by how much they enjoy it.

If you’re planning a wider Indonesia trip beyond the capital, this guide to Kalimantan, Indonesia is a useful read for exploring a very different side of the country.

Final Thoughts

I’ve visited many places across Indonesia since first moving away from Jakarta, yet I still find myself returning whenever I can.

Partly it’s to see friends, but it’s also because Jakarta continues to surprise me. Every visit reveals a different side of the city, and after all these years I still feel like there is more to discover.

If you’re considering whether Jakarta is worth visiting, our answer is simple: yes.

Give it a chance, explore beyond the obvious and don’t judge it too quickly. You might find yourself falling in love with the city just as we did.

Latest update: June 2026

Jakarta doesn’t always get much love from food-focused travellers.

Many visitors use Indonesia’s capital as a transit point before heading to Bali, Yogyakarta or the islands further east. That’s a mistake. Jakarta has some of the best food in Indonesia, from tiny street-side warungs to historic restaurants and modern rooftop bars.

Livia lived in Jakarta for six months in 2014 while working in the city and we have returned several times since. During that time, we spent a lot of our free time doing what we do best: eating.

These are some of our favourite restaurants, coffee shops and local food experiences in Jakarta.

Looking for more Jakarta travel tips? Check out our guides to Things to Do in Jakarta and Why You Should Visit Jakarta.

Indonesian Classics

Restoran Garuda Sabang

If you’ve never tried Padang food before, a cuisine originating from West Sumatra, Restoran Garuda is one of the best introductions.

As soon as you sit down, dozens of small dishes are placed on your table. You only pay for what you eat, allowing you to sample a wide variety of flavours. Expect rich rendang, spicy curries, fried chicken and vegetable dishes packed with flavour.

Located close to Jalan Sabang, it’s also an easy stop while exploring one of Jakarta’s most famous food streets.

Sate Kambing Jaya Agung

For a more local experience, head to Sate Kambing Jaya Agung.

Their speciality is lamb satay served with sweet soy sauce, chilli and onions. It’s simple, affordable and usually filled with local diners rather than tourists.

Sate Khas Senayan

One of Indonesia’s most recognisable restaurant chains, Sate Khas Senayan is a reliable option for first-time visitors.

The menu covers dishes from across the archipelago and is a good place to sample several Indonesian favourites in one meal. While it may not be the most adventurous choice in Jakarta, the food is consistently good and easy to recommend.

Warung MJS

Warung MJS is a popular Indonesian restaurant in Kuningan known for its wide selection of traditional dishes. It’s a great place to sample a variety of local flavours in a casual setting.

Guests choose their food before sitting down, making it easy to mix and match different dishes. If you’re visiting with others, we recommend ordering several plates to share.

The restaurant can get busy during peak meal times, particularly with local diners, so you may need to wait for a table.

Street Food & Local Favourites

While Jakarta has plenty of excellent restaurants, some of our favourite meals are always from simple street food stalls and local eateries.

Many of Indonesia’s most beloved dishes are sold from small carts, roadside warungs and family-run restaurants. Don’t be put off by the plastic stools and basic surroundings. Some of the best food in Jakarta comes from places that barely look like restaurants at all.

A few of our personal favourites include bakso, mie ayam and tongseng. You’ll find them all over the city, often at places packed with local customers.

Bakso Populer

This small local spot in Thamrin serves excellent bakso and is a great introduction to one of Indonesia’s favourite dishes.

Bakso Rusuk Samanhudi Sabang

Located near Jalan Sabang, this is another good spot to try bakso, one of Indonesia’s most popular comfort foods. It’s a simple local place serving a dish you’ll find all over Jakarta.

Bakmi Cong Sim

Located in Mangga Besar, Bakmi Cong Sim serves simple but delicious bakmi noodles. It’s not a fancy restaurant, but the flavours speak for themselves. We still find ourselves thinking about these noodles years later.

Historic & Special Occasion Restaurants

Cafe Batavia

Located on Fatahillah Square in Jakarta’s Old Town, Cafe Batavia is one of the city’s most iconic restaurants. Yes, it’s touristy. But it’s also beautiful.

Housed inside a restored colonial-era building, the restaurant is filled with old photographs, antiques and historic charm. Grab a table upstairs for views across the square and enjoy one of the most atmospheric dining experiences in the city. We tend to come here for a drink rather than a meal, but the atmosphere alone makes it worth visiting.

Plataran Dharmawangsa

If you’re looking for a special meal, Plataran Dharmawangsa is hard to beat.

Traditional Indonesian architecture, lush gardens and excellent food combine to create an oasis in the middle of Jakarta. The setting alone is worth a visit, but the food more than lives up to the surroundings.

It’s one of our favourite places for introducing visitors to Indonesian cuisine.

Coffee Shops

Saudagar Kopi Sabang

Indonesia produces some of the world’s best coffee and Saudagar Kopi is one of our favourite places to enjoy it.

Located near Jalan Sabang, this cosy café is a great place to escape Jakarta’s traffic and heat for a while. The coffee is excellent and it’s an easy addition to an afternoon spent exploring central Jakarta.

Tanamera Coffee

Tanamera helped introduce many visitors to Indonesian speciality coffee and remains one of the city’s most popular coffee chains.

Their beans come from different regions across Indonesia, making it a great place to explore the country’s incredible coffee culture.

Anomali Coffee

Another long-time favourite, Anomali focuses on Indonesian-grown beans and offers coffees from regions including Sumatra, Java, Bali and Sulawesi.

If you’re curious about the differences between Indonesian coffee-producing regions, this is a great place to start.

Rooftops & Views

Kosenda Hotel Rooftop

The rooftop at Kosenda Hotel offers fantastic city views in a more relaxed setting. It’s a great place for sunset drinks while watching the skyline light up for the evening.

ARTOTEL roof top

ARTOTEL’s rooftop bar is another good option for views over central Jakarta. The atmosphere is laid-back and attracts a mix of locals, expats and visitors looking for a drink above the busy streets below.

Skye

Located high above the city centre, SKYE is one of Jakarta’s most famous rooftop venues. The views across the skyline are impressive, particularly after dark when the city’s skyscrapers begin to light up. It’s more upscale than Kosenda or ARTOTEL, making it a popular choice for sunset drinks or a special night out.

Food Neighbourhoods Worth Exploring

Jalan Sabang (Jl. H. Agus Salim)

One of Jakarta’s most famous food streets, Jalan Sabang (Jl. H. Agus Salim) comes alive after dark with street food stalls, local restaurants and coffee shops. It’s a great place to try a wide range of Indonesian dishes in a single evening and remains one of our favourite places to wander whenever we’re back in the city. It’s also right next door to Artotel Tharmin where we’ve stayed many times while in Jakarta.

Pantjoran PIK

Pantjoran PIK in Pantai Indah Kapuk has become one of Jakarta’s most popular food destinations. Inspired by old Chinese-Indonesian architecture, the area is packed with restaurants, cafés and street food stalls. It’s particularly good for Chinese and Chinese-Indonesian food and makes for a fun evening of eating and exploring.

Baywalk Area

The waterfront around Baywalk Mall is one of Jakarta’s best areas for seafood. Along the coast you’ll find a number of restaurants serving fresh fish, prawns, crab and other seafood dishes, often with views across Jakarta Bay.

If you’re a seafood lover, this is a great alternative to the Indonesian and Chinese restaurants found elsewhere in the city.

Final Thoughts

Jakarta is one of Southeast Asia’s most underrated food cities.

The city brings together cuisines from across Indonesia, allowing you to try dishes from Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi and beyond without ever leaving the capital. Whether you’re eating Padang food on Jalan Sabang, tucking into a bowl of bakso from a local stall or watching the skyline from a rooftop bar, Jakarta rewards travellers who arrive hungry.

If you’re planning a trip, don’t miss our guides to Things to Do in Jakarta and Why you should visit Jakarta for more ideas on exploring Indonesia’s fascinating capital.

Who makes the best coffee in Jakarta? When you’re travelling coffee becomes a basic human necessity. You need a kick to get you up and off on the good foot.

On our recent visits to Jakarta my mission as Captain Coffee was to locate some of the best roasteries, brewers and purveyors of the dark brown elixir. Not as easy as you think considering that the island is called Java, Coffee is called Kopi and most people want to serve you a milky iced beverage.

#1 Tanamera Coffee

Modern, chilled coffee bar in the center of Jakarta, Thamrin. Guys in leather aprons have been proudly brewing coffee since 2013. They work with local Indonesian farmers to produce and roast a piquant coffee that is exquisite and distinctive. They serve all your favorite coffee combinations as well as cold brews, pastries and sandwiches.

The interior of red and black matching their branding is comfy and welcoming. Of course there is free wi-fi
Tanamera Coffee now have eight outlets throughout Indonesia. Quite possibly the best coffee in Jakarta.

#2 Kopi Es Tak Kie

Before you get yourself too involved with Jakarta’s famous Chinatown or nearby “Ghost City”, get yourself down to Kopi Es Tak Kie.

Being Jakarta’s oldest coffee house they’ve perfected their brewing skills over the last 90 years (yes since 1929) and offer a no frills brew at a really good price. There are tables and chairs and there is coffee… but that’s about it. As their name suggests they make Ice Coffee, but you can ask for hot brews, with or without milk, just don’t start asking for a de-caff soy latte OK?!

#3 Coffeebeerian

Coffee AND Craft Beer?.. yes it’s possible at Coffeebeerian. It’s a simple place with a few back rooms and a few comfy sofas. All kinds of hot/cold filter brews, specialty beans and a guy who just loves to make coffee. Not fancy, nor Instagrammable but great. It’s also a nice area (Senopati) to walk around with large houses and gardens.

#4 Toko Kopi TUKU – Pasar Santa

Ok, you don’t even get a table at this place, find a place to sit down on a nearby wall. At Toko Kopi TUKU you order your coffee through a sliding glass window, you can jump the queue of Go-Jek drivers. Mostly serving Ice Coffee with a plastic sealed lid and a straw it’s hard to beat on a hot day in Jakarta. Go check out the local market, upstairs are loads of cool independent shops selling toys, records, graffiti supplies and more.

#5 Cafe Batavia

Yes it’s expensive, yes you have to get past the crowds of students wanting interviews and selfies.. but as soon as you cross the threshold of Cafe Batavia you are transported back to the Colonial Jakarta of days gone by. Sip on your coffee and look out over the square with people riding colorful rent-a-bikes and enjoy the history.

What do you think of my best coffee in Jakarta hot spots? Let me know in the comment section below.

Many people dismiss Jakarta as a tourist destination which is such a shame as it has so much to offer the traveler, even if you’re just passing through, read our post “Why you should visit Jakarta” and our other Jakarta posts for more on this great city.

Latest update: June 2026

Jakarta rarely appears on lists of must-visit destinations in Indonesia. Most travellers arrive, spend a night near the airport and continue on to Bali, Yogyakarta or one of Indonesia’s many islands.

We think that’s a mistake.

We first visited Jakarta in 2014 when Livia spent six months living and working in the city. Since then we’ve returned several times and continue to discover new sides of Indonesia’s capital. While Jakarta can feel chaotic, crowded and overwhelming at first, it is also one of the most fascinating cities in Southeast Asia.

Behind the traffic and skyscrapers you’ll find incredible food, excellent coffee, fascinating history and some of the friendliest people in Indonesia.

Is Jakarta Worth Visiting?

Absolutely.

Jakarta is not a city that immediately reveals its charm. Unlike Bangkok, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, there are relatively few obvious tourist attractions. What makes Jakarta interesting is the atmosphere, the food, the neighbourhoods and the endless contrasts between old and new.

One moment you’re exploring a centuries-old Chinese temple, the next you’re standing on a rooftop overlooking one of the largest skylines in Asia.

For a deeper look at why we think Jakarta deserves more attention, read our guide to Why You Should Visit Jakarta.

Where to stay in Jakarta

Jakarta is enormous, so choosing the right area can make a big difference.

Thamrin & Central Jakarta

For first-time visitors, this is our favourite area and where we usually stay when visiting Jakarta.

Staying around Thamrin puts you close to shopping malls, restaurants, cafés and many of the city’s main attractions. One of our favorite hotels in the area is Artotel Thamrin and for a cheaper hotel Cool Living is a solid option, simple but clean. Both being excellent bases for exploring the city.

If you’re looking for an apartment in Thamrin I would suggest Thamrin Residences and Thamrin Executive residence, where we have stayed multiple times.

Menteng & Cikini

Menteng is one of Jakarta’s most pleasant neighbourhoods, filled with trees, cafés and historic buildings.

We stayed in an apartment in Cikini and found it to be a great area for longer stays. It feels slightly calmer than central Jakarta while still offering easy access to the rest of the city.

Luxury Hotels

Jakarta has some of the best-value luxury hotels in Asia. Compared to Europe, five-star hotels are often surprisingly affordable. We loved our stay at the Four Seasons Jakarta, but there are many excellent luxury options throughout the city.

Getting Around Jakarta

Jakarta is famous for its traffic, and the reputation is well deserved. Fortunately, ride-hailing apps such as Grab and Gojek make getting around surprisingly easy. We never rented vehicles ourselves and instead relied on taxis and ride-hailing apps throughout our visits.

We tend to use Grab or Blue Bird most. There is also a metro in Jakarta now, which has made it much easier to go north – south.

Best Things to Do in Jakarta

Explore Chinatown (Glodok)

Located north of the city centre, Glodok is Jakarta’s historic Chinatown and one of our favourite parts of the city.

The area is packed with markets, temples, food stalls and small shops. Wandering through the narrow streets is one of the best ways to experience a different side of Jakarta.

Two of the most interesting attractions are the Chinese temples hidden among the busy streets. Visitors are welcome to enter and learn more about local traditions and culture.

Don’t miss Kopi Es Tak Kie, one of Jakarta’s oldest coffee shops.

Visit Kota Tua (Old Town)

Kota Tua is Jakarta’s historic colonial centre and home to some of the city’s most recognisable buildings.

The area around Fatahillah Square contains museums, cafés and restored Dutch colonial architecture. One of the best places to take a break is Café Batavia, which overlooks the square and feels like stepping back in time.

While the main square is well maintained, simply wandering through the surrounding streets reveals a fascinating mix of restored buildings, abandoned colonial structures and modern Jakarta life.

Visit the National Museum

The National Museum is one of the best places to learn about Indonesia’s history and cultural diversity.

Its collection covers everything from ancient kingdoms and archaeological discoveries to traditional art and regional cultures. Visiting before travelling elsewhere in Indonesia provides useful context for understanding the country.

Explore Taman Mini Indonesia Indah

If you only have time for one cultural attraction in Jakarta, make it Taman Mini.

This enormous park showcases traditional houses, architecture and cultural traditions from all over Indonesia. Each province has its own area, making it feel like a miniature version of the entire country.

The park is huge, so allow a full day if you want to explore it properly.

Discover Jakarta’s Street Food

One of our favourite things to do in Jakarta is simply eat.

Street food stalls can be found on almost every corner, serving everything from satay and noodles to soups and grilled meats.

Some of our favourite local spots include Bakso Populer, Bakso Rusuk Samanhudi Sabang, Mie Ayam Gajah Mungkur and Sate Kambing Jaya Agung.

Don’t be afraid to follow the crowds. If a stall is packed with locals, there’s usually a good reason.

Discover Jakarta’s Modern Skyline

Many first-time visitors are surprised by how modern parts of Jakarta feel. The area around SCBD (Sudirman Central Business District) is filled with skyscrapers, luxury hotels, rooftop bars and some of Indonesia’s most important business headquarters.

One of our favourite places to explore is ASHTA District 8. The development combines restaurants, cafés, shops and public spaces, all surrounded by some of Jakarta’s most impressive architecture. Walking through the area feels completely different from wandering through Glodok or Kota Tua and offers a glimpse into Jakarta’s rapidly changing future.

If you’ve seen photos of Jakarta that look more like New York or Singapore than Indonesia, there’s a good chance they were taken around SCBD.

Enjoy Jakarta’s rooftop bars

Rooftop bars, restaurants and hotels offer spectacular views across the city. Watching the lights come on as the sun sets over the skyscrapers is one of our favourite ways to spend an evening in Jakarta.

The rooftop at Kosenda Hotel or Artotel is a great budget-friendly option, while luxury hotels such as the Four Seasons offer a more upscale experience. Skye is also a good option for both food and the bar.

Explore Jakarta’s Malls

Love them or hate them, Jakarta’s malls are part of the city experience.

Jakarta has long been claimed to have one of the highest numbers of shopping malls per capita in the world. They aren’t simply places to shop. They function as community spaces where people meet friends, eat, watch films, work, exercise and escape the heat and traffic outside.

At the luxury end you’ll find enormous complexes such as Grand Indonesia and Plaza Indonesia, while places like ITC Mangga Dua feel more like giant indoor markets. Many malls contain hundreds of shops, food courts, cinemas and entertainment venues, making them destinations in their own right.

Another favourite of ours is Sarinah, Jakarta’s oldest department store. Recently renovated, it combines shopping, restaurants, cafés and Indonesian brands under one roof. It’s a great place to browse local products and get a feel for modern Jakarta.

We often found ourselves retreating to a mall after a long day exploring the city. Air conditioning, good coffee and excellent food are hard to argue with when Jakarta temperatures start climbing.

Visit Pantjoran PIK and Pantai Maju

One of the newer areas we enjoyed exploring was Pantjoran PIK in Pantai Indah Kapuk.

This modern development combines Chinese-Indonesian influences, restaurants, cafés and attractive architecture. Nearby Pantai Maju showcases yet another side of Jakarta’s constant transformation.

Experience Jakarta’s Coffee Culture

Indonesia produces some of the best coffee in the world and Jakarta has fully embraced café culture.

Some of our favourite coffee spots include Kopi Es Tak Kie in Glodok and Saudagar Kopi Sabang in central Jakarta.

Whether you prefer traditional Indonesian coffee or modern specialty cafés, Jakarta has plenty to offer.

Where to Eat in Jakarta

One of the biggest reasons we keep returning to Jakarta is the food.

From tiny street food stalls and local warungs to upscale restaurants, the city offers an incredible variety of dining options. Some of our favourite places include Restoran Garuda, Tesate Sam Ratulangi and the many food stalls scattered throughout the city.

For more recommendations, read our full guide to Where to Eat in Jakarta.

Why We Keep Returning to Jakarta

Jakarta is not the easiest city to love.

The traffic can be frustrating, the heat can be intense and it lacks the obvious tourist attractions found elsewhere in Indonesia.

Yet somehow we keep coming back.

Perhaps it’s the food, the coffee, the fascinating mix of cultures or simply the energy of the city itself. Whatever the reason, Jakarta has become one of our favourite places in Indonesia and a city we believe deserves far more attention from travellers.

We discussed “slum tourism” as a couple quite a few times when we found out about the Hidden Jakarta Tour. Whether it would be ethical or not to go on this tour. Their TripAdvisor reviews seemed positive. Not only would we get to see the another completely different side of Jakarta, we would actually be contributing to a community in a sustainable and responsible way. It’s a touchy subject as most people would consider it a day looking at poor people in a very depressing human zoo. Ultimately it depends on the tour itself, which way you look at it and how it affects you as another human being.

In the end we decided to go on the tour as it wasn’t a look-at-these-poor-people-tour as many tours like these turn into. The people who run this tour are mainly doing it to raise money for these communities (all money goes directly to their different projects) and to show this part of Jakarta to Indonesian people. To make a change. This is where the importance is for us, why they run the tour. They want to make a change, this is something the government doesn’t want you to see, thereof the name Hidden Jakarta tour. But by having this tour, they raise awareness of the issue which is the first step for change. Also, many of the people working for the tour are living in these areas themselves, which we really liked. It’s also a way to give back to these communities.

The Hidden Jakarta Tour not only gives you an insight into the disparity of the city, we had a real opportunity to connect with people who were as interested in us as we were in them. “Why do you come to Jakarta?“, is a very popular question whenever we are in Jakarta. Our answer is mostly “The food and the people”. This tour made this even more true for us.

Fatahillah Square

We started our day by heading off in a BlueBird taxi to Fatahillah Square. It’s a on most tourists’ to do list in Jakarta, and a main sightseeing spot. It’s also a popular place for students to grab an interview with the tourists. They ask you your name, where you’re from and why you came to Indonesia, that’s usually in front of a camera. Then they want a selfie with you, then the next person ask the same thing. You could do this all day.

We grabbed a coffee at the famous Cafe Batavia. The food was OK, but as always in Indonesia you can get better for cheaper, essentially you’re paying for the location and the interior of the cafe. It’s well worth the visit for the location. Coffee was excellent, they have different coffee from all around Indonesia and hits a spot in my Top 5 Best Coffee in Jakarta blog post.

Our guide meets us at a local cafe, Kantin Mega Rasa, just around the corner. We grabbed lunch and an ice tea, while discussing what’s in store for the day. It’s also a great time to ask anything you’d like to know and about taking photos, as that was something we viewed as a potential awkward/embarrassing, or not at all normal social behaviour. The best thing was to take it by ear, our guide would check, or as it turned out people would ask us to take their photo. Well it is Indonesia, and they do love their selfies.

The three of us jumped in a microlet (small buss for local transportation) and headed off. We jumped out at Jembatan Kota Intan, an original Bascule bridge, and after dodging the traffic we ducked into a side alley and headed off into the dark and towards the train lines.

Dark Places

This was our first meeting. She explained to our guide how she lives in this space, her husband earns about $2 a day as a parking attendant nearby. This place is ‘rented’ from a Chinese criminal gang who collect about $30 a month from them. As you can see in the pic they have electricity and a fridge, their possessions are hung around or neatly packed against the wall. The fan blasts 40°c hot air around the room, it’s hot as hell, but we all smile for an awkward turtle moment. Yes the first meeting was a bit awkward for us, as we wasn’t sure how to act. But it got better throughout the tour and we relaxed a bit more.

Back in the dark corridor, we climb one of the ladders and walked along the thin plywood floor/ceiling and past a few doors to sunlight and a gasp of ‘fresh’ air. Before we head back down and onwards to the bridge, greeting mostly women who were chatting or cleaning/cooking and children who are running around playing and being shy when we say hello.

Boat Trip

When we arrived back our guide led us out into the wasteland next to the docks. The ground was rubble, bricks, concrete, bits of cable. Dotted across the debris were makeshift tents, built from whatever could be found, tarpaulin, wood, sheet metal, whatever worked. Floors were on stilts, beds were either on the floor or raised where the whole family would sleep together. By family, I mean in this case a woman with six children, her husband works on a cargo boat sailing between Indonesia and the UAE. She see him once every three or so months when he brings her a few hundred dollars after his expenses.

This time we jumped into an bicycle tuk-tuk (illegal in Jakarta, but no one cared in this area) and disappear off towards the docks. This is a very working class, low income area. Our guide had us pulled across the water way by a family working this “ferry”/boat/raft. It was covered from the sun by some tarp with a piece of rope to pull it left or right. One of the family members guided us into a thin wooden boat. His son took us out to the old lighthouse and back with his grandson sitting up front all proud of his new passengers whilst he played on a broken mobile phone. We passed dozens of ships in different states of repair and after about 30 minutes we were out in open water, the old green lighthouse in view and massive container ships dotting the horizon. We headed back feeling slightly smaller in our 4 meter long wooden boat.

When we arrived back our guide led us out into the wasteland next to the docks. The ground was rubble, bricks, concrete, bits of cable. Dotted across the debris were makeshift tents, built from whatever could be found, tarpaulin, wood, sheet metal, whatever worked. Floors were on stilts, beds were either on the floor or raised where the whole family would sleep together. By family, I mean in this case a woman with six children, her husband works on a cargo boat sailing between Indonesia and the UAE. She see him once every three or so months when he brings her a few hundred dollars after his expenses.

These houses are illegal, in the sense that they’re not allowed to build anything on these grounds. Ever so often the government sends bulldozers to take it all down. And these families have to rescue what they can and start over, once the bulldozers left.

We sat down with a family and had a really nice chat with them. We were asked a ton of questions, If we were married, where we live, where we come from, How much we earn? How much we pay for rent?. You quickly realize these are huge almost inconceivable sums of money for these people.

Reflections

The Indonesian government doesn’t want to admit to this problem. Many Indonesians have never seen these areas. That’s also a reason why we found it important to go. To go here and show that these people matters. That’s an issue in this area, the guide told us that many of the people living here doesn’t think they matter as not even their own countrymen comes here. He continued to explain how happy it made the people here to have foreigners come, just for a small chat. We got so many smiles from people we were passing saying hello, Livia in Indonesian, which made them smile even more.

It hit me hard, it was difficult to hold back the tears once we left the dockland. Us with so much, so “wealthy”, even though we have to work to live and are about one or two paychecks away from being on the street ourselves. But you can’t imagine having to survive like that and still be able to smile. It’s a rough hand to be dealt in life, it makes you tough. You look at the first photo in this post, now look at the last. Its was a sobering experience for everyone.

There are countless guides to Bali online, most of them focusing on the same beaches, temples and tourist hotspots. This guide is a little different. Instead of covering Bali’s most famous attractions, we want to share a few places that helped us see a different side of the island.

The first time I visited Bali, I didn’t really understand why everyone loved it so much. After spending several months living in Jakarta, Bali felt expensive and far more tourist-focused than other parts of Indonesia I had visited. It wasn’t until I started exploring beyond the busy southern beaches and central Ubud that I began to appreciate what makes Bali special.

If you’re looking for beach clubs, nightlife and backpacker hangouts, you’ll probably love the southern parts of Bali and central Ubud. But if you prefer quieter places, beautiful landscapes and a slower pace of life, there are still plenty of areas where you can escape the crowds.

I haven’t explored every corner of Bali, but these are a few places that have stood out to us over the years.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces

Yes, Jatiluwih is a tourist attraction. However, it feels very different from the much busier rice terraces around Ubud.

The terraces stretch across a huge area, meaning it’s easy to find quiet corners even when other visitors are around. During our visit, we spent much of our time simply walking through the landscape and enjoying the views.

The scenery here is spectacular and, in our opinion, well worth the journey from the more popular parts of Bali.

Ubud Beyond the Centre

We wouldn’t skip Ubud completely. The area is beautiful and there’s plenty to see. The trick is not staying right in the middle of town.

Instead, look for accommodation in the villages and rice fields surrounding Ubud. You’ll still be close enough to visit the attractions, restaurants and markets, but without the traffic and crowds.

During one of our visits we stayed at Hati Padi Cottages, a small property surrounded by rice fields. At the time we were the only guests, and it remains one of the most peaceful places we’ve stayed anywhere in Indonesia.

The property is run by two French owners and a local Balinese woman, all of whom were incredibly welcoming. We spent our mornings drinking coffee while looking out across the rice fields and our evenings watching the sunset over the surrounding countryside.

It was the kind of place that makes you slow down and appreciate where you are.

📌 Looking for even more things to do in Ubud? Our friend Juan from Planet of Adventures has put together a fantastic guide featuring 13 great things to do in and around Ubud.

The Beautiful Landscapes of Sidemen

Our visit to Sidemen was completely unplanned.

While exploring the island, our driver suggested taking the scenic road through the area and promised it was worth the detour. He was right.

The road winds through rice fields, villages and beautiful mountain scenery. During our visit we watched locals harvesting crops, children walking home from school and farmers working in the fields.

Sidemen has become more popular with travellers over the years, but it still feels far quieter and more relaxed than many of Bali’s better-known destinations.

We only stopped for lunch and a short walk, but it immediately went onto our list of places to stay during a future visit.

The Sleepy Town of Klungkung

Klungkung was probably the biggest surprise of our trip.

When I told our driver I wanted to visit, he looked at me rather strangely and asked why. He said very few foreign visitors ever requested a stop there.

The reason was simple: one of my friends grew up in Klungkung, and I wanted to see her hometown.

What we found was a charming Balinese town with very few tourists, a beautiful Hindu temple and a busy local market. Life seemed to move at a slower pace here than in the tourist centres further south.

If you’re curious about everyday life in Bali and want to spend some time somewhere that isn’t built around tourism, Klungkung is well worth a visit.

Its location also makes it easy to combine with a trip to Sidemen.

Final Thoughts

Bali may be famous for its beaches, beach clubs and busy tourist towns, but some of our favourite memories come from the quieter parts of the island.

Places like Jatiluwih, Sidemen and Klungkung offer a slower pace of life and a chance to experience a different side of Bali. Even around Ubud, simply staying a little further from the centre can completely change your experience.

If you’re willing to venture beyond the most popular tourist areas, you’ll discover that Bali is much more than Kuta, Seminyak and central Ubud.

📌 How about making your own chocolate in beautiful Bali? Our friends at twopassportspacked did just that!