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Sam

I design and execute structured, scalable digital ecosystems that integrate SEO, AEO, UX and analytics into commercially focused marketing strategies. I also travel full-time!

Livia enjoys the peaceful journey through the Java countryside
Indonesia

Jakarta to Yogyakarta by Train: Our Experience & Travel Tips

by Sam July 12, 2018
written by Sam

Latest update: June 2026

One of our favourite travel experiences in Indonesia was taking the train from Jakarta to Yogyakarta. While flying is faster, the train offers something you simply can’t experience from the air: a chance to watch the landscapes of Java slowly unfold outside your window.

We first travelled this route in 2018 and enjoyed it so much that we took the train again a few years later. While some of the booking processes have become more digital over the years, the overall experience remained largely the same. Comfortable seats, friendly staff and some beautiful scenery make this one of the best train journeys in Indonesia.

If you’re travelling between Jakarta and Yogyakarta, we highly recommend taking the train at least once.

Jakarta to Yogyakarta Train Overview

Distance: Approximately 530 km
Journey Time: Around 6 to 9 hours depending on the train service
Cost: Usually between €15 and €35 depending on class and how far in advance you book (for executive class with air-con).

Departure Stations: Various stations in Jakarta, including Gambir and Pasar Senen

Arrival Station: Yogyakarta Tugu Station

We travelled in Executive Class, which we found well worth the extra cost.

Enjoy the stunning countryside of Java from the train
Enjoy the stunning countryside of Java from the train

How to Book Train Tickets

On both of our journeys we bought our tickets directly at the station.

When travelling from Jakarta, we used Gambir Station. While there may be queues at some ticket windows, there are usually dedicated service counters where staff can help foreign visitors purchase tickets.

You will need your passport when buying tickets, so make sure to bring it with you.

After purchasing our tickets, we were able to check in using the station’s self-service machines before departure.

These days there are also various online booking options available, but we have always found buying tickets at the station to be straightforward and easy. Make sure to book at least a day in advance since they might run out.

If possible, try to reserve a window seat. The scenery is one of the highlights of the journey.

Food and Drinks on the Train

Staff regularly pass through the carriages selling drinks, snacks and simple meals.

There is also a dining car where passengers can buy hot food, coffee and instant noodles.

The food is fairly basic, so we usually bring some extra snacks for the journey. That said, grabbing a bowl of noodles while watching the Javanese countryside roll past the window is part of the experience.

The Journey Through Java

This is where travelling by train really stands out.

Shortly after leaving Jakarta, the urban landscape begins to fade and is replaced by rice fields, villages and endless stretches of green countryside. As the journey continues, volcanic peaks begin appearing in the distance and the scenery becomes increasingly dramatic.

The route offers a fascinating glimpse into everyday life in Java. Small towns, local markets, farms and railway stations pass by throughout the day, giving you a perspective you would completely miss if you flew.

The journey is long enough to feel like an adventure but comfortable enough that the hours pass surprisingly quickly.

Restaurant Car on the train from Jakarta to Yogyakarta
Restaurant Car on the train from Jakarta to Yogyakarta

Is the Train Better Than Flying?

Flying is undoubtedly faster, especially if you are short on time.

However, if you have a flexible schedule, we think the train is by far the more enjoyable way to travel between Jakarta and Yogyakarta. Also getting to the airport in Jakarta can be a pain depending on time of day and traffic.

The cost is comparable, the seats are comfortable and the scenery alone makes the journey worthwhile. Rather than spending half a day navigating airports, you can simply sit back and watch Java unfold outside your window.

Livia enjoys the peaceful journey through the Java countryside
Livia enjoys the peaceful journey through the Java countryside

Would We Take the Train Again?

Absolutely.

In fact, we already have.

After taking the train for the first time in 2018, we chose to travel the same route again a few years later. That alone probably says more than any review could.

For us, the Jakarta to Yogyakarta train is more than just transportation. It is one of the best ways to experience the landscapes, culture and atmosphere of Java, and we would happily choose it again on a future trip.

July 12, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

Where to Eat in Jakarta: Best Restaurants & Local Food Spots

by Sam July 10, 2018
written by Sam

Latest update: June 2026

Jakarta doesn’t always get much love from food-focused travellers.

Many visitors use Indonesia’s capital as a transit point before heading to Bali, Yogyakarta or the islands further east. That’s a mistake. Jakarta has some of the best food in Indonesia, from tiny street-side warungs to historic restaurants and modern rooftop bars.

Livia lived in Jakarta for six months in 2014 while working in the city and we have returned several times since. During that time, we spent a lot of our free time doing what we do best: eating.

These are some of our favourite restaurants, coffee shops and local food experiences in Jakarta.

Looking for more Jakarta travel tips? Check out our guides to Things to Do in Jakarta and Why You Should Visit Jakarta.

Indonesian Classics

Restoran Garuda Sabang

If you’ve never tried Padang food before, a cuisine originating from West Sumatra, Restoran Garuda is one of the best introductions.

As soon as you sit down, dozens of small dishes are placed on your table. You only pay for what you eat, allowing you to sample a wide variety of flavours. Expect rich rendang, spicy curries, fried chicken and vegetable dishes packed with flavour.

Located close to Jalan Sabang, it’s also an easy stop while exploring one of Jakarta’s most famous food streets.

Padang food at Restoran Garuda Sabang
Padang food at Restoran Garuda Sabang, Jakarta

Sate Kambing Jaya Agung

For a more local experience, head to Sate Kambing Jaya Agung.

Their speciality is lamb satay served with sweet soy sauce, chilli and onions. It’s simple, affordable and usually filled with local diners rather than tourists.

Sate Khas Senayan

One of Indonesia’s most recognisable restaurant chains, Sate Khas Senayan is a reliable option for first-time visitors.

The menu covers dishes from across the archipelago and is a good place to sample several Indonesian favourites in one meal. While it may not be the most adventurous choice in Jakarta, the food is consistently good and easy to recommend.

Warung MJS

Warung MJS is a popular Indonesian restaurant in Kuningan known for its wide selection of traditional dishes. It’s a great place to sample a variety of local flavours in a casual setting.

Guests choose their food before sitting down, making it easy to mix and match different dishes. If you’re visiting with others, we recommend ordering several plates to share.

The restaurant can get busy during peak meal times, particularly with local diners, so you may need to wait for a table.

The garden at Warung MJS, Jakarta
Sate Kambing Jaya Agung

Street Food & Local Favourites

While Jakarta has plenty of excellent restaurants, some of our favourite meals are always from simple street food stalls and local eateries.

Many of Indonesia’s most beloved dishes are sold from small carts, roadside warungs and family-run restaurants. Don’t be put off by the plastic stools and basic surroundings. Some of the best food in Jakarta comes from places that barely look like restaurants at all.

A few of our personal favourites include bakso, mie ayam and tongseng. You’ll find them all over the city, often at places packed with local customers.

Bakso Populer

This small local spot in Thamrin serves excellent bakso and is a great introduction to one of Indonesia’s favourite dishes.

Bakso Rusuk Samanhudi Sabang

Located near Jalan Sabang, this is another good spot to try bakso, one of Indonesia’s most popular comfort foods. It’s a simple local place serving a dish you’ll find all over Jakarta.

Bakmi Cong Sim

Located in Mangga Besar, Bakmi Cong Sim serves simple but delicious bakmi noodles. It’s not a fancy restaurant, but the flavours speak for themselves. We still find ourselves thinking about these noodles years later.

Bakso Rusuk Samanhudi Sabang
Bakmi Cong Sim
Street food BBQ chicken

Historic & Special Occasion Restaurants

Cafe Batavia

Located on Fatahillah Square in Jakarta’s Old Town, Cafe Batavia is one of the city’s most iconic restaurants. Yes, it’s touristy. But it’s also beautiful.

Housed inside a restored colonial-era building, the restaurant is filled with old photographs, antiques and historic charm. Grab a table upstairs for views across the square and enjoy one of the most atmospheric dining experiences in the city. We tend to come here for a drink rather than a meal, but the atmosphere alone makes it worth visiting.

Plataran Dharmawangsa

If you’re looking for a special meal, Plataran Dharmawangsa is hard to beat.

Traditional Indonesian architecture, lush gardens and excellent food combine to create an oasis in the middle of Jakarta. The setting alone is worth a visit, but the food more than lives up to the surroundings.

It’s one of our favourite places for introducing visitors to Indonesian cuisine.

Cafe Batavia
Cafe Batavia
Plataran Dharmawangsa

Coffee Shops

Saudagar Kopi Sabang

Indonesia produces some of the world’s best coffee and Saudagar Kopi is one of our favourite places to enjoy it.

Located near Jalan Sabang, this cosy café is a great place to escape Jakarta’s traffic and heat for a while. The coffee is excellent and it’s an easy addition to an afternoon spent exploring central Jakarta.

Tanamera Coffee

Tanamera helped introduce many visitors to Indonesian speciality coffee and remains one of the city’s most popular coffee chains.

Their beans come from different regions across Indonesia, making it a great place to explore the country’s incredible coffee culture.

Anomali Coffee

Another long-time favourite, Anomali focuses on Indonesian-grown beans and offers coffees from regions including Sumatra, Java, Bali and Sulawesi.

If you’re curious about the differences between Indonesian coffee-producing regions, this is a great place to start.

Rooftops & Views

Kosenda Hotel Rooftop

The rooftop at Kosenda Hotel offers fantastic city views in a more relaxed setting. It’s a great place for sunset drinks while watching the skyline light up for the evening.

ARTOTEL roof top

ARTOTEL’s rooftop bar is another good option for views over central Jakarta. The atmosphere is laid-back and attracts a mix of locals, expats and visitors looking for a drink above the busy streets below.

Skye

Located high above the city centre, SKYE is one of Jakarta’s most famous rooftop venues. The views across the skyline are impressive, particularly after dark when the city’s skyscrapers begin to light up. It’s more upscale than Kosenda or ARTOTEL, making it a popular choice for sunset drinks or a special night out.

Kosenda
ARTOTEL

Food Neighbourhoods Worth Exploring

Jalan Sabang (Jl. H. Agus Salim)

One of Jakarta’s most famous food streets, Jalan Sabang (Jl. H. Agus Salim) comes alive after dark with street food stalls, local restaurants and coffee shops. It’s a great place to try a wide range of Indonesian dishes in a single evening and remains one of our favourite places to wander whenever we’re back in the city. It’s also right next door to Artotel Tharmin where we’ve stayed many times while in Jakarta.

Pantjoran PIK

Pantjoran PIK in Pantai Indah Kapuk has become one of Jakarta’s most popular food destinations. Inspired by old Chinese-Indonesian architecture, the area is packed with restaurants, cafés and street food stalls. It’s particularly good for Chinese and Chinese-Indonesian food and makes for a fun evening of eating and exploring.

Baywalk Area

The waterfront around Baywalk Mall is one of Jakarta’s best areas for seafood. Along the coast you’ll find a number of restaurants serving fresh fish, prawns, crab and other seafood dishes, often with views across Jakarta Bay.

If you’re a seafood lover, this is a great alternative to the Indonesian and Chinese restaurants found elsewhere in the city.

PIK area
Jalan Sabang (Jl. H. Agus Salim)

Final Thoughts

Jakarta is one of Southeast Asia’s most underrated food cities.

The city brings together cuisines from across Indonesia, allowing you to try dishes from Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi and beyond without ever leaving the capital. Whether you’re eating Padang food on Jalan Sabang, tucking into a bowl of bakso from a local stall or watching the skyline from a rooftop bar, Jakarta rewards travellers who arrive hungry.

If you’re planning a trip, don’t miss our guides to Things to Do in Jakarta and Why you should visit Jakarta for more ideas on exploring Indonesia’s fascinating capital.

July 10, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

Best Cafés in Jakarta: Our Favourite Coffee Shops in the City

by Sam July 9, 2018
written by Sam

Who makes the best coffee in Jakarta? When you’re travelling coffee becomes a basic human necessity. You need a kick to get you up and off on the good foot.

On our recent visits to Jakarta my mission as Captain Coffee was to locate some of the best roasteries, brewers and purveyors of the dark brown elixir. Not as easy as you think considering that the island is called Java, Coffee is called Kopi and most people want to serve you a milky iced beverage.

#1 Tanamera Coffee

Modern, chilled coffee bar in the center of Jakarta, Thamrin. Guys in leather aprons have been proudly brewing coffee since 2013. They work with local Indonesian farmers to produce and roast a piquant coffee that is exquisite and distinctive. They serve all your favorite coffee combinations as well as cold brews, pastries and sandwiches.

The interior of red and black matching their branding is comfy and welcoming. Of course there is free wi-fi
Tanamera Coffee now have eight outlets throughout Indonesia. Quite possibly the best coffee in Jakarta.

Tanamera Coffee Jakarta, Indonesia
At Tanamera Coffee relax in the knowledge your coffee will be good.

#2 Kopi Es Tak Kie

Before you get yourself too involved with Jakarta’s famous Chinatown or nearby “Ghost City”, get yourself down to Kopi Es Tak Kie.

Being Jakarta’s oldest coffee house they’ve perfected their brewing skills over the last 90 years (yes since 1929) and offer a no frills brew at a really good price. There are tables and chairs and there is coffee… but that’s about it. As their name suggests they make Ice Coffee, but you can ask for hot brews, with or without milk, just don’t start asking for a de-caff soy latte OK?!

#3 Coffeebeerian

Coffee AND Craft Beer?.. yes it’s possible at Coffeebeerian. It’s a simple place with a few back rooms and a few comfy sofas. All kinds of hot/cold filter brews, specialty beans and a guy who just loves to make coffee. Not fancy, nor Instagrammable but great. It’s also a nice area (Senopati) to walk around with large houses and gardens.

#4 Toko Kopi TUKU – Pasar Santa

Ok, you don’t even get a table at this place, find a place to sit down on a nearby wall. At Toko Kopi TUKU you order your coffee through a sliding glass window, you can jump the queue of Go-Jek drivers. Mostly serving Ice Coffee with a plastic sealed lid and a straw it’s hard to beat on a hot day in Jakarta. Go check out the local market, upstairs are loads of cool independent shops selling toys, records, graffiti supplies and more.

Toko Kopi Kuku, Jakarta
Toko Kopi Kuku is not romantic by far.. but it’s damn fine coffee!

#5 Cafe Batavia

Yes it’s expensive, yes you have to get past the crowds of students wanting interviews and selfies.. but as soon as you cross the threshold of Cafe Batavia you are transported back to the Colonial Jakarta of days gone by. Sip on your coffee and look out over the square with people riding colorful rent-a-bikes and enjoy the history.

What do you think of my best coffee in Jakarta hot spots? Let me know in the comment section below.

Many people dismiss Jakarta as a tourist destination which is such a shame as it has so much to offer the traveler, even if you’re just passing through, read our post “Why you should visit Jakarta” and our other Jakarta posts for more on this great city.

Grand interior of cafe Batavia
July 9, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

Hidden Jakarta Tour: Our Experience & Is It Ethical?

by Sam June 19, 2018
written by Sam

Before booking the Hidden Jakarta Tour, we spent quite a bit of time discussing whether we actually felt comfortable doing it.

Tours that take visitors into low-income communities are controversial, and understandably so. At their worst, they can turn people’s everyday lives and difficult circumstances into a tourist attraction. We didn’t want to spend an afternoon simply walking around looking at how other people lived.

But the more we read about Hidden Jakarta, the more interested we became in how this particular tour worked. It was presented as a community-based initiative, with money from the tours supporting projects within the communities and local people involved in the organisation.

Eventually, we decided to go.

There were moments when we felt uncomfortable and initially weren’t quite sure how to behave. But the experience turned out to be very different from what we’d feared, and gave us an insight into a side of Jakarta we’d never experienced before.

What Is the Hidden Jakarta Tour?

Hidden Jakarta is a community-based initiative that takes visitors into some of Jakarta’s kampungs to meet residents and learn more about everyday life in these communities.

Today, Hidden Jakarta describes its approach around three principles: Emergency, Education and Empowerment, or the 3Es. Tour fees and donations help fund emergency assistance, school supplies, meals and education, as well as support for small businesses and other community initiatives.

The organisation also emphasises local guides, small groups and community consent as part of its approach to responsible tourism.

We took the Hidden Jakarta Tour in 2018, so some of the practical details may have changed since our visit. Everything below is based on our own experience at the time.

Starting at Fatahillah Square

Our day started somewhere much more familiar to visitors: Fatahillah Square in Jakarta’s Old Town.

The square is one of Jakarta’s main sightseeing spots and was busy with visitors, street vendors and groups of students.

As foreigners, we were regularly approached by students wanting to practise their English. The routine was usually similar: your name, where you’re from and why you’ve come to Indonesia, often recorded on camera, followed by a selfie.

We stopped for coffee at the famous Café Batavia overlooking the square. The food was fine, but you’re definitely paying partly for the historic setting and location. The coffee, however, was excellent, with different coffees from across Indonesia to choose from.

From there, we met our guide at a local café just around the corner.

Over lunch and iced tea, we talked about what we were going to see and, importantly, about taking photos. This was something we’d been concerned about beforehand. Walking into someone’s neighbourhood and immediately pulling out a camera didn’t feel right. Our guide explained that we should judge each situation individually and that he could check with people when necessary. As it turned out, some of the people we met actively asked us to take their photos.

Drinking Coffee at Cafe Batavia Jakarta
Drinking Coffee at Cafe Batavia Jakarta

Leaving Tourist Jakarta Behind

After lunch, the three of us climbed into a microlet, one of Jakarta’s small local buses, and headed off.

We got out near Jembatan Kota Intan, Jakarta’s historic Dutch drawbridge. After dodging the traffic, we ducked into a narrow alley and continued towards the railway tracks.

This was where the experience became very different from the Jakarta we’d seen until then.

Visiting the Communities

One of our first meetings was with a woman living in a small, dark space beneath the railway. She explained to our guide that she lived there with her husband, who worked nearby as a parking attendant and earned around $2 a day at the time. Their belongings were carefully arranged around the small room. They had electricity, a fridge and a fan moving the hot Jakarta air around the space.

This first meeting felt awkward. Not because of anything she did, but because we weren’t entirely sure how we were supposed to act. We were standing inside someone’s home, seeing living conditions completely different from our own and very aware that we were there as visitors.

But as the day continued, we relaxed.

Back in the narrow corridor, we climbed a ladder and walked along a thin plywood floor between different homes before eventually emerging back into the daylight.

We passed people chatting, cooking and cleaning, while children ran around playing. We said hello as we passed and gradually the whole experience began to feel less awkward and more about simply meeting people.

Dark alleyway leading down underneath the railway tracks
Dark alleyway leading down underneath the railway tracks

Heading Towards the Docks

From there, we continued towards the docks.

This time we climbed into a bicycle tuk-tuk and travelled through a low-income, working-class part of northern Jakarta. Eventually, we reached a small local ferry crossing a waterway. It was essentially a covered wooden platform pulled from one side to the other using a rope. On the other side, we climbed into an even smaller wooden boat.

A local man took us out through the harbour towards an old green lighthouse, with his young grandson sitting proudly at the front.

We passed dozens of boats and ships in different states of repair. After around half an hour, we reached more open water, with the lighthouse ahead and enormous container ships scattered across the horizon.

Sitting in our little wooden boat surrounded by them certainly put their size into perspective.

Walking through the back streets near the docks in Jakarta
Walking through the back streets near the docks in Jakarta
Livia in a bicycle tuk-tuk
Livia in a bicycle tuk-tuk

Life Around the Docks

Back on land, our guide took us through an area beside the docks where families were living in makeshift homes constructed from whatever materials were available.

The ground was covered with rubble, bricks, concrete and pieces of cable. Homes had been built using timber, metal sheets, tarpaulins and other materials, with some floors and beds raised above the ground.

One of the women we met lived there with her six children. At the time, she told us that her husband worked on a cargo boat travelling between Indonesia and the UAE and returned every few months.

Our guide also explained that the homes in this area weren’t officially permitted and that residents faced the possibility of them being demolished. This was what we were told during our visit in 2018, and we can’t comment on the situation there today.

We sat down with one family and spent some time talking. And the questions certainly weren’t all coming from us. Were we married? Where did we live? Where were we from? How much did we earn? How much did we pay in rent? Some of those questions would probably feel very personal back home, but here they were asked with genuine curiosity.

It was one of the things that stayed with us from the day. These weren’t completely one-sided encounters where we arrived, asked questions and left. The people we met were often just as interested in our lives as we were in theirs.

Seeing a Different Side of Jakarta

We’d already spent quite a bit of time in Jakarta before taking the tour, but this was completely different from the city we’d experienced until then.

Jakarta is a city of enormous contrasts. Modern shopping malls, skyscrapers and luxury hotels exist alongside communities where people live with very little security. The tour made those contrasts much harder to ignore. Our guide also talked to us about how little visibility some of these communities had within Jakarta itself and why he believed bringing visitors into the area could help raise awareness.

We can only describe what we personally saw and what we were told during our visit in 2018, but it certainly gave us a different perspective on the city.

Is the Hidden Jakarta Tour Ethical?

After actually taking the tour, did we feel differently about the ethical concerns we’d had beforehand? Yes, although we still don’t think there’s a simple answer when it comes to this type of tourism.

What made the difference for us was how much of the day involved interaction rather than observation. We sat and talked with people, answered their questions as well as asking our own, travelled around with a local guide and discussed photography and consent before entering the communities. Some people even asked us to take their photos or took photos of us.

It didn’t feel as though we were simply being led around to look at poverty, which had been our biggest concern before booking.

The community-based model was also an important part of why we chose Hidden Jakarta. Today, the organisation continues to state that its tours are run with community consent and that tour fees contribute directly to its Emergency, Education and Empowerment programmes.

That doesn’t mean every tour involving low-income communities is automatically ethical, or that there aren’t uncomfortable aspects to being a relatively wealthy visitor in someone else’s neighbourhood.

If you’re considering this type of tour, we think it’s worth looking at where the money goes, whether the community is involved in running the experience, how photography is handled and, importantly, whether residents actually want visitors there.

Based on the tour we experienced in 2018, we’re glad we went.

Our Reflections on the Hidden Jakarta Tour

Parts of the day were difficult. Seeing such different living conditions up close inevitably made us think about the circumstances we were born into and how dramatically those circumstances can shape someone’s opportunities. But some of our assumptions were also challenged.

Before the tour, we’d worried about how people would react to us being there. In reality, many of our interactions were warm, curious and surprisingly ordinary. People chatted. Children played. Someone wanted a photo. Someone else wanted to know if we were married. Those everyday interactions were ultimately what stayed with us most.

It was also another reminder of why we’d grown to enjoy Jakarta so much. “Why did you come to Jakarta?” was a question we were asked constantly during our time in the city. Our answer was usually simple: the food and the people. After taking the Hidden Jakarta Tour, that felt even more true.

Would We Recommend the Hidden Jakarta Tour?

Based on our experience in 2018, yes. The Hidden Jakarta Tour showed us a part of the city we would never have experienced travelling independently and led to conversations and encounters we wouldn’t otherwise have had. However, we’d still recommend doing your own research before booking. Organisations, communities and tours can change, and our experience was several years ago.

Hidden Jakarta currently describes itself as a community-based tourism initiative operating with local guides, small groups and community consent, with tour fees helping fund its 3E programmes.

If that’s the kind of experience you’re looking for, we’d recommend reading more about how Hidden Jakarta operates today before deciding whether it’s right for you.

For us, the tour wasn’t about seeing the “real Jakarta”, because there isn’t one single version of a city this enormous. It was about understanding another part of it.

June 19, 2018 0 comments
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