Tag:

Guide

A Short Guide to Novi Sad

by Livia June 13, 2026

written by Livia

After spending over two weeks in Belgrade, we headed north to Novi Sad, Serbia’s second-largest city. Located on the banks of the Danube, Novi Sad offers a more relaxed atmosphere than the capital and makes for an enjoyable stop while travelling through northern Serbia.

We only spent a few days here, but enjoyed exploring the old town, visiting Petrovaradin Fortress and discovering some great cafés and restaurants along the way.

This is our short guide to Novi Sad.

Visit Petrovaradin Fortress

Petrovaradin Fortress is Novi Sad’s most famous landmark and definitely worth a visit. Perched above the Danube, it offers fantastic views across the river and over the city.

We visited during winter, when the fortress was quiet and easy to explore. The grounds are large enough to spend a couple of hours wandering around, and there are plenty of viewpoints where you can stop and take in the scenery.

Today the fortress is best known as the home of the EXIT Festival, but even outside festival season it’s one of the highlights of Novi Sad.

Explore the Old Town

Novi Sad’s old town is compact, walkable and easy to explore in a day.

The city centre is filled with cafés, restaurants, churches and attractive squares, making it a pleasant place to wander around without any particular destination in mind. We spent much of our time simply walking through the centre, stopping for coffee and enjoying the slower pace of life.

Compared to Belgrade, Novi Sad felt quieter and more laid-back, making it a nice change of pace after the Serbian capital.

Where to Eat in Novi Sad

Loft Downtown, Coffee & Food Bar

Loft Downtown is a great café in Novi Sad. Located in the heart of the city, it’s a great place to stop for coffee, breakfast or a light lunch while exploring the old town.

The atmosphere is modern and relaxed, making it easy to spend an hour or two watching the world go by.

Restoran Kafanica

For traditional Serbian food, we can recommend Restoran Kafanica.

The restaurant serves generous portions of local dishes in a welcoming setting and was one of our favourite meals in Novi Sad. If you’re looking to try Serbian cuisine before leaving the country, this is a great place to do it.

Final Thoughts

While Novi Sad may not have the energy or size of Belgrade, we really enjoyed our time here. The combination of a relaxed city centre, good food and impressive fortress makes it a worthwhile stop while travelling through Serbia.

For us, Novi Sad was a pleasant place to slow down for a few days before continuing our journey north.

June 13, 2026 0 comments

Serbia

Belgrade: Our Favourite City in Serbia

by Livia June 13, 2026

written by Livia

Updated June 2026. Originally visited in December 2018.

Belgrade ended up being one of our favourite stops during our travels through the Balkans. We originally planned to stay for a couple of weeks and quickly found ourselves settling into a comfortable routine of cafés, walks, good food and exploring different neighbourhoods.

We visited in December and even experienced a snowstorm while we were there, before celebrating Christmas with visiting family in the Serbian capital. The combination of lively streets, historic architecture, excellent food and welcoming atmosphere made it a city we genuinely enjoyed spending time in.

Belgrade’s food scene deserves its own article. If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations, have a look at our guide to where to eat in Belgrade.

Where to stay in Belgrade

Belgrade is a large city, but most visitors will probably want to stay somewhere close to the city centre. We found that being within walking distance of Knez Mihailova, Dorćol and Belgrade Fortress made it easy to explore much of the city without relying on public transport.

If you’re planning to stay for a few days, we’d recommend looking for accommodation in the city centre or nearby neighbourhoods such as Dorćol, Savamala or Vračar. Each area has its own character and gives easy access to restaurants, cafés and many of Belgrade’s main attractions.

We booked our accommodation through Booking.com, where you’ll find plenty of options throughout Belgrade, from budget apartments to boutique hotels.

Explore Belgrade’s Different Neighbourhoods

One of the things we enjoyed most about Belgrade was simply wandering around its different districts.

Knez Mihailova, the city’s main pedestrian street, quickly became one of our favourite places for a walk. Lined with shops, cafés and historic buildings, it acts as the heart of the city centre and connects many of Belgrade’s major attractions.

We also spent plenty of time in Skadarlija, Belgrade’s bohemian quarter and Dorćol, a neighbourhood filled with cafés, bars, restaurants and creative spaces. It felt slightly more relaxed than the city centre and quickly became one of our favourite parts of Belgrade.

For a completely different side of the city, we crossed the river to Novi Beograd. The wide boulevards, large apartment blocks and socialist-era architecture create a very different atmosphere. While there, we made a point of seeing the famous Genex Tower, one of the most iconic examples of Yugoslav brutalist architecture.

Visit Belgrade Fortress

No visit to Belgrade is complete without spending some time at Belgrade Fortress.

Located where the Sava and Danube rivers meet, the fortress offers fantastic views across the city and is one of the most important historical sites in Serbia. The surrounding park is also a pleasant place for a walk, especially on a clear winter day.

Temple of Saint Sava

The Temple of Saint Sava is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world and is impossible to miss when visiting Belgrade.

The building dominates the skyline and is impressive both inside and out. Even if you’re not particularly interested in religious sites, it’s worth visiting simply to appreciate the scale of the architecture.

House of Flowers

One of the more interesting places we visited was the House of Flowers, the mausoleum of former Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito.

Whether you’re interested in Yugoslav history or not, the museum provides a fascinating glimpse into a period that shaped much of the Balkans. It also helps explain some of the history and politics that continue to influence the region today.

Markets, Cafés and Everyday Life

We always enjoy visiting local markets when travelling, and Kalenić Market was one of our favourite places in Belgrade. It’s a lively market where locals shop for fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese and other produce.

Belgrade also has a fantastic café culture. Some of our favourite places included Pržionica D59B, Café Amelie, Hotel Moskva and Zaokret. We often found ourselves stopping for coffee between sightseeing, especially on cold winter days.

For an evening drink, Blaznavac was one of our favourite bars, with a fun atmosphere and plenty of character.

A Strange Visit to BIGZ

One of the more memorable places we explored was BIGZ, a huge former publishing house that had partially transformed into an artists’ and creative space.

At the time of our visit, much of the building felt semi-abandoned. There was security at the entrance and we were told before arriving that visitors are not supposed to enter, but we walked in confidently and somehow found ourselves exploring the building without any problems.

It was one of those slightly surreal travel experiences that you remember long after the more famous attractions have faded from memory.

Final Thoughts

Belgrade isn’t the prettiest city in Europe, but it has an energy that’s difficult to describe until you’ve spent some time there.

The mix of history, café culture, food, architecture and neighbourhood life makes it a city that’s easy to settle into. What started as a two-week stop became one of the highlights of our Balkan trip, and it’s a city we’d happily return to one day.

June 13, 2026 0 comments

Netherlands

Visiting the Jordaan: Amsterdam’s Most Beautiful Neighbourhood

by Sam June 11, 2026

written by Sam

When most people think of Amsterdam, they picture canals, bicycles and narrow houses leaning slightly towards the water. What many don’t realise is that some of the city’s most charming streets, best cafés and hidden corners are all tucked away in one neighbourhood: the Jordaan.

Originally built as a working-class district in the 17th century, the Jordaan has transformed into one of Amsterdam’s most desirable neighbourhoods while somehow managing to retain much of its local character. Wander through the area today and you’ll find quiet canals, independent cafés, historic pubs, hidden courtyards and some of the prettiest streets in the city.

If you’re visiting Amsterdam, make sure you set aside at least half a day to explore the Jordaan properly.

Start at the Anne Frank House

No visit to the Jordaan is complete without seeing the Anne Frank House.

Located on the Prinsengracht canal, this is one of Amsterdam’s most important historical sites. The museum tells the story of Anne Frank and her family during the Second World War and includes the famous secret annex where they spent more than two years in hiding.

Tickets often sell out weeks in advance, so book ahead if visiting is a priority.

Even if you don’t go inside, the surrounding canals are worth exploring and provide a good starting point for discovering the rest of the neighbourhood also you can spot the Anne Frank Monument outside the Westerkerk.

The Anne Frank Monument

The Westerkerk and One of Amsterdam’s Best Photo Spots

Just around the corner stands the impressive Westerkerk, one of Amsterdam’s most recognisable churches.

The church tower dominates the skyline and can be seen from all over the city. Rembrandt is believed to be buried here, although the exact location of his grave remains unknown.

For photographers, one of our favourite viewpoints is the junction of Eerste Leliedwarsstraat and Nieuwe Leliestraat. Looking towards the church from here creates a classic Amsterdam scene, with bicycles, canal houses and the Westerkerk tower framed perfectly at the end of the street.

It’s one of those places that somehow feels more Amsterdam than Amsterdam itself.

Westerkerk Toren is visible all over the Jordaan

Wander the Canals and Hidden Streets

The best way to experience the Jordaan is simply to get lost.

The neighbourhood is packed with narrow streets, tiny bridges and beautiful canals. Around almost every corner you’ll find flower-covered bicycles, historic facades or small cafés tucked into old buildings.

One of our favourite spots is the bridge at the intersection of Bloemgracht and Eerste Bloemdwarsstraat.

The Bloemgracht is often called one of the most beautiful canals in Amsterdam, and standing on the bridge here gives you a perfect view of the canal stretching away between rows of traditional Dutch houses.

If you’re into photography, this is one location you definitely shouldn’t miss.

Keep an eye out for the area’s street art as well. The Jordaan isn’t known as a graffiti district like Amsterdam Noord, but you’ll still find murals, stickers and small pieces of urban art hidden throughout the neighbourhood.

Typical Amsterdam views

Visit Rembrandt’s Final Home

Many visitors know about the famous Rembrandt House Museum in the city centre, but fewer realise that the painter spent the final years of his life in the Jordaan.

After financial difficulties forced him to sell his grand residence, Rembrandt moved to a more modest house on Rozengracht.

Today the building remains a private residence, but a memorial plaque marks the location and offers a small glimpse into the artist’s later years.

It’s an easy stop while exploring the neighbourhood and a nice reminder that some of Amsterdam’s greatest history is hidden in plain sight.

Where to Eat in the Jordaan

One of the best things about the Jordaan is the food.

Unlike some parts of central Amsterdam, the neighbourhood still has plenty of places that cater to locals rather than tourists.

Kessens

If you’re looking for breakfast or lunch, make your way to Kessens.

Known for excellent sandwiches, fresh ingredients and great coffee, it’s one of our favourite places to eat in the area. The atmosphere is relaxed, the food is consistently good and it feels very much like a neighbourhood spot rather than a tourist attraction.

Kafenion

For coffee, head to Kafenion.

This small Greek-inspired café serves excellent coffee and is the kind of place where you can easily lose an hour watching local life drift by outside the window.

Have a Drink at Amsterdam’s Oldest Pub

If you’re in the mood for a beer, make your way to Café Chris.

Founded in 1624, it is often considered Amsterdam’s oldest pub.

Despite its age, it remains refreshingly unpretentious. You’ll find locals chatting at the bar, traditional Dutch beers on tap and an atmosphere that feels a world away from the city’s more touristy drinking spots.

It’s one of those places that reminds you Amsterdam was a living city long before it became a popular destination.

Great food and Drink in the Jordaan

Visit One of Amsterdam’s Original Coffeeshops

No guide to the Jordaan would be complete without mentioning Paradox Coffeeshop.

Located just a short walk from the canals, Paradox is one of Amsterdam’s original local coffeeshops and has been part of the neighbourhood for decades.

Unlike some of the larger tourist-focused coffeeshops in the city centre, Paradox has always maintained a more local atmosphere.

If you’re lucky, you’ll meet Ludo. He’s a walking encyclopedia of Jordaan history and can tell you stories not only about the coffeeshop itself but also about the building, the surrounding streets and how the neighbourhood has changed over the years.

Even if you’re simply curious about Amsterdam’s coffeeshop culture, it’s worth stopping by for a chat.

The best (and most authentic) Coffeeshop in the Jordaan

Why We Always Return to the Jordaan

The Jordaan isn’t home to Amsterdam’s biggest attractions or busiest shopping streets, and that’s exactly why we love it.

This is where you’ll find the Amsterdam of canals lined with bicycles, hidden courtyards, historic pubs, local cafés and quiet streets that seem untouched by time.

Whether you’re visiting the Anne Frank House, photographing the Westerkerk, enjoying lunch at Kessens or simply wandering along the Bloemgracht, the Jordaan offers a side of Amsterdam that many visitors never properly discover.

If you only have time to explore one neighbourhood in Amsterdam, make it the Jordaan.

June 11, 2026 0 comments

Namibia

Namibia Self Drive Safari vs Guided Tour: Which Is Better?

by Sam June 2, 2026

written by Sam

What’s the best way to travel around Namibia?

One of the most common questions we get after travelling in Namibia is whether it’s better to join a guided safari tour or rent a 4×4 and drive yourself.

The short answer?

We’ve done both, and honestly, neither is better. They’re just different.

What We Actually Did

Before comparing costs, comfort and flexibility, it’s worth looking at what we actually did on each trip. Although both adventures took place in Namibia, they ended up being very different experiences. The Cameleon Safaris tour covered ALOT of ground and it would be extremely tiring to drive the distances they did, if you want to see as much as possible, we would highly reccommend taking one of their tours.

Our 9-Day Chameleon Safaris Tour

The guided tour focused on many of Namibia’s most famous highlights. Over nine days we visited:

Etosha National Park
Swakopmund
Dune 45
Sossusvlei
Dead Vlei
Sesriem Canyon
Klein-Aus Vista
Kolmanskop Ghost Town
Lüderitz
Fish River Canyon
Quiver Tree Forest

This trip was very much about seeing Namibia’s headline attractions. The biggest surprise for us was just how much ground we covered in such a short amount of time. Looking back, it’s hard to believe everything that was packed into nine days.

We expected Dead Vlei and Sossusvlei to be impressive, but they completely exceeded our expectations. Dead Vlei in particular is one of the most extraordinary places we’ve ever visited.

The biggest surprise of the entire guided tour was Kolmanskop. Before arriving, we thought it would be a quick stop to photograph an abandoned town. Instead, it became one of the highlights of our time in Namibia. The combination of history, abandoned buildings and drifting desert sand creates an atmosphere unlike anywhere else we’ve visited. If you’re interested in photography, history or unusual places, Kolmanskop alone is worth the journey.

📌 We booked our Nambia Tour directly with Chameleon Safaris and we think you should too. We even have a discount code you can use if you want 10% off any of their tours, just use code PADDINGTON10 at checkout.

Our 8-Day Namibia Self Drive Safari

After the guided tour, we rented a fully equipped 4×4 and headed off on our own adventure. Rather than revisiting places we’d already seen, we focused on areas we had missed during the tour:

Spitzkoppe
Brandberg Mountain
The White Lady hike
Vingerklip
Ugab Terraces
Waterberg

This trip felt completely different. Instead of trying to see as much as possible, we slowed down and spent more time in fewer places.

The biggest surprise was Spitzkoppe. We had heard good things about it beforehand, but neither of us expected it to become one of our favourite places in Namibia. The granite peaks, hiking trails, rock formations and night skies were absolutely incredible.

Waterberg was another surprise. We booked the rhino tracking experience hoping to see a few rhinos from a vehicle. We certainly didn’t expect to be walking alongside them only a few metres away.

Here’s our full itinerary of our Namibia Self Drive with all the best tips / do’s and don’t

If you’re trying to decide between a Namibia self drive safari and a guided tour, here’s our honest take.

Cost Comparison

Let’s start with the big one.

The Chameleon Safaris tour cost approximately N$48,000 (€2,592) per person and included transport, accommodation, camping, meals, guides, park fees and activities.

At first glance, that’s a lot of money and our 8-day self drive safari was significantly cheaper. But you are paying for comfort, zero stress and not having to book lodges and camp grounds.

The 4×4 rental cost us approximately N$20,650 (€1,100) for two people. Adding fuel, campsites, food and a couple of lodge stays brought our total to roughly €2,100 for two people, depending on how many restaurant meals and upgrades you choose.

Financially, the self drive option wins comfortably. On first glance for the price of one guided tour, two people can complete a substantial self drive adventure.

Wildlife Viewing: Guided Tour Wins

This one wasn’t even close.

When we visited Etosha National Park with Chameleon Safaris, our guide seemed capable of spotting animals from another continent.

Within minutes, they were finding lions, elephants, giraffes, birds and creatures we would never have noticed ourselves.

Later, while driving around Namibia, we saw plenty of self-drive tourists driving around Etosha looking slightly confused and often stopping randomly in the hope of finding wildlife.

The guides know where animals were last seen, understand behaviour patterns and communicate with other guides throughout the day.

If wildlife is your number one priority, especially in Etosha, we would strongly recommend paying for a local guided safari. They will pick you up at the lodge in an open sided raised 4×4 and take you around the park while you take photos.

You can’t beat sitting in the back of an open sided 4×4 taking photos while the guides do the spotting.

Freedom: Self Drive Wins

The biggest advantage of renting your own 4×4 is freedom.

Want to spend an extra hour photographing a sunset? Go for it.

Found a campsite you love and want to stay another night? No problem.

Fancy stopping every ten minutes for photos? Nobody is going to complain.

With a self drive safari, you completely control the pace.

Some of our favourite moments in Namibia happened simply because we decided to take a random gravel road or stop somewhere unexpected. That being said our Chameleon Safaris guide told us we only have to ask if we want to stop. They also know great photo spots and how far it is to the next toilet.

That spontaneity doesn’t really exist on an organised tour.

Freedom and the open road.

Stress Levels: Guided Tour Wins

Driving in Namibia isn’t difficult, but it does require concentration.

Distances are huge.
Fuel stations can be hundreds of kilometres apart.
Gravel roads demand attention.
Tyres puncture.
Equipment breaks.
Water containers leak.

Trust us, we experienced some of these ourselves.

On the guided tour, somebody else handled all of that. We could sit back, watch the scenery and enjoy the experience without worrying about navigation, campsite bookings or whether we had enough fuel to reach the next town.

For many travellers, particularly first-time visitors to Africa, that’s worth paying for.

With a guided tour everything is organized, your food, tours and accommodation.

Accommodation and Comfort

This one depends on your travel style.

On the guided tour, we stayed in a mix of lodges, hotels and campsites. Everything was organised for us and meals were prepared by our guides.

The self drive trip required more effort.

We had to set up camp, cook, clean and organise ourselves every day.

That said, we also had complete freedom to choose where we stayed.

Some nights we camped under spectacular star-filled skies, while other nights we upgraded ourselves into comfortable lodges.

Call this one a draw.

Cooking for youself can be a pain if the BBQ doesn’t get hot enough, but having a nice hotel with a pool has a lot going for it.

Which Trip Saw More of Namibia?

For us the Chameleon Safaris Guided tour covered more ground and our Self Drive was a much slower pace.

In just nine days, we visited Etosha, Swakopmund, Sossusvlei, Dead Vlei, Sesriem Canyon, Fish River Canyon, Kolmanskop and the Quiver Tree Forest.

That’s an enormous amount of Namibia packed into a relatively short time and personally I wouldn’t want to drive those distances AND have the energy to hike up dunes, worry about toilets and gas stations. It’s nice to sit back and relax and have someone else do the work for you.

Our self drive trip was slower and more focused. Instead of trying to see everything, we concentrated on Spitzkoppe, Brandberg, Vingerklip and Waterberg.

The result was a deeper experience in fewer places.

Neither approach is wrong. It simply depends on whether you prefer breadth or depth.

Out on your own, or enjoying a group trip, it’s really down to your own travel style.

Who Should Choose a Guided Tour?

We would recommend a guided tour if:

It’s your first visit to Namibia
Wildlife is your main priority
You don’t want to drive long distances
You enjoy meeting other travellers
You want everything organised for you
You have limited time

The Chameleon tour showed us some of the most spectacular places we’ve ever visited and removed virtually all of the planning and logistics. It’s also more social, so for solo travelers that can be really nice if you want to meet other people.

Who Should Choose a Self Drive Safari?

A self drive safari is probably better if:

You enjoy road trips
You like travelling independently
You want maximum flexibility
You want to choose your own accommodation
You’re travelling on a tighter budget

There is something incredibly satisfying about driving your own vehicle across Namibia’s vast landscapes and creating your own adventure.

What We’d Change Next Time

Having now experienced both a guided safari and a self-drive adventure in Namibia, there are a few things we’d do differently.

If we were booking the guided tour again, we’d probably choose one with an extra day in Etosha or Swakopmund and perhaps skip Fish River Canyon. While it was certainly impressive, the long detour didn’t quite justify the time investment for us. We’d happily trade that day for more time exploring the coast or the desert landscapes around Sossusvlei. That being said, Chameleon Safaris offers a broad spectrum of safari experiences, someting for everyone if you like.

For the self-drive safari, we’d definitely allow more time. Eight days was enough to see some incredible places, but we often felt like we were arriving somewhere just as it was time to leave again. Namibia is enormous, and the distances between destinations are much greater than they appear on a map.

We’d also book our vehicle and accommodation earlier. Leaving things until the last minute limited our options and meant we had to be more flexible with our route than we’d originally planned.

If someone asked us how to travel Namibia, we’d recommend exactly what we ended up doing. Start with a guided safari to visit places like Etosha, Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei, where local knowledge makes a huge difference. Then rent a 4×4 and spend a week exploring some of the country’s quieter corners at your own pace.

Looking back, the guided tour and self-drive safari weren’t competing experiences. They complemented each other perfectly and together gave us a much more complete picture of Namibia than either trip could have done on its own.

Our Verdict

If we had to choose just one?

We honestly couldn’t. The guided safari gave us access to incredible wildlife encounters, expert local knowledge and many of Namibia’s most famous attractions. The self drive safari gave us freedom, flexibility and some of our most memorable moments on the open road.

If your budget allows, we genuinely think the perfect Namibia itinerary combines both.

Use a guided tour to experience places like Etosha and Sossusvlei, then rent a 4×4 afterwards and explore some of the country’s quieter corners at your own pace.

That’s exactly what we did.

And looking back, we wouldn’t change a thing.

June 2, 2026 0 comments

Indonesia

Best Satay in Yogyakarta: Where to Eat Sate in Jogja

by Sam February 28, 2023

written by Sam

Latest update: June 2026

Yogyakarta, also know as Jogja, was one of our favourite food destinations in Indonesia. From street food stalls to family-run restaurants, we ate incredibly well during our time in the city.

One dish we kept coming back to was satay (or sate), grilled skewers of meat cooked over charcoal and served with a variety of sauces and seasonings. If you’re looking for the best satay in Yogyakarta, these are the places we would recommend.

Ingredients used in Yogyakarta’s Satay

In Yogyakarta you’ll find satay made from chicken, beef, goat and lamb. Many restaurants brush the meat with kecap manis, Indonesia’s sweet soy sauce, while it cooks over charcoal, giving it a slightly smoky and caramelised flavour.

Best Places to Enjoy Satay in Yogyakarta

There are many places to enjoy satay in Yogyakarta, but some of the best places include:

1. Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu

Warung Sop & Sate Sapi Pak Bayu was our favourite satay restaurant in Yogyakarta and the one we’d return to without hesitation. Located around 30 minutes north of the city in the Sinduharjo area, it is best known for its excellent beef satay and a huge dish they call the “Dinosaur Ribs”.

Everything is cooked over charcoal and served with a rich sauce made from the meat juices and kecap manis. The food is fantastic, the service is quick and friendly, and the atmosphere feels genuinely local. It’s well worth the short taxi ride from the city centre.

2. Satay Klathak Pak Pong

Satay Klathak Pak Pong serves various types of satay, including chicken, beef, goat, and lamb. The meat is grilled over charcoal and served with a special sauce made from coconut milk, lemongrass, and other herbs and spices. The restaurant is located in the Klathak area, about 30 minutes south from the city center.

3. Ayam Goreng Jawa Mbah Cemplung

Ayam Goreng Jawa Mbah Cemplung is located in the Prawirotaman area, this restaurant is known for its delicious chicken and goat satay. The meat is marinated in a special blend of spices and grilled over charcoal. The peanut sauce served with the satay is made from roasted peanuts, chili, and other spices, giving it a rich and savory flavor.

4. Sate Kambing Sari Cempe Neng Lia

Sate Kambing Sari Cempe Neng Lia is famous for its lamb satay, which is grilled to perfection and served with a spicy sauce made from peanuts and chili. The restaurant is located in the Tegalrejo area, not far from the city center.

Tips for Eating Satay in Yogyakarta

One thing we quickly learned in Yogyakarta is that no two satay restaurants are exactly the same. Some specialise in beef, others in goat or chicken, and the sauces can vary just as much as the meat. If you’re a fan of grilled food, don’t stop at just one restaurant.

Many of the best satay places are local restaurants rather than tourist attractions, so carrying some cash is a good idea. We also found that satay is often best enjoyed in the evening, when the charcoal grills are firing and the restaurants are full of local families and groups of friends.

Final thoughts

In our opinion, the best satay in Yogyakarta has to be Pak Bayu, not just because of the quality of the food, but also the traditional atmosphere and friendly staff.

That said, Yogyakarta has no shortage of excellent places to eat satay, whether you prefer chicken, beef, goat or lamb. If you’re visiting the city, trying satay should be high on your food list, and hopefully this guide helps you find a new favourite.

If you want to read more about food in Yogyakarta see our previous post ‘Where to eat in Yogyakarta‘

February 28, 2023 0 comments

Dominican Republic

How to Hike to Salto El Limón Without a Guide

by Sam April 19, 2022

written by Sam

Hiking to Salto El Limón waterfall in the Dominican Republic is one of the best things to do near Las Terrenas, and you absolutely do not need to join a tour to do it.

This guide shows exactly how to hike to Salto El Limón without a guide, using a local guagua to reach Casa Nega and follow a quieter back route that avoids crowds, saves money, and gives you a better overall experience of this famous Dominican Republic waterfall.

In simple terms, the route is: Las Terrenas → guagua to Casa Nega → hike down to Salto El Limón → exit via the standard El Limón trail → guagua back to Las Terrenas.

Salto El Limón hike quick facts

Route type: one-way / loop-style route
Start point: Casa Nega
Finish point: El Limón village
Nearest town: Las Terrenas / El Limón
Guide needed: No, but the route is easier with offline maps
Difficulty: Moderate
Best time to arrive: Early morning
Can you swim: Yes
Transport: Guagua from Las Terrenas and back

Quick Overview: Hiking to Salto El Limón from Las Terrenas

Location: Samaná Peninsula, Dominican Republic
Distance: ~8–10 km
Time: ~4 hours
Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Suggested Itinerary

07:15 Guagua from Las Terrenas
07:45 Start hiking
08:30 Arrive at Salto El Limón waterfall
08:30–09:30 Swim and explore
09:30–10:30 Hike out
10:30 Return

What You Need for the Hike

Phone with offline maps
~500 DOP cash
Water + snacks
Swimwear + towel
Sun protection
Light rain jacket

Save These Map Points Before You Go

When hiking to Salto El Limón, mobile signal is unreliable.

Use Google Maps:

Search Salto El Limón
Download offline map

Optional: Mapy.cz for better hiking trails.
It shows smaller trails that Google often misses.
Mapy.cz for iPhone
Mapy.cz for Android

The Route

Salto El Limón hiking route without a guide from Casa Nega

This is the route to the waterfall from the drop off point (2)
Download this route as GeoJSON

1. Guagua Pickup in Las Terrenas

The ‘Parrada Guagua El Limón‘ outside La Bodega, opposite the cemetery
https://goo.gl/maps/agc9ze4kxdeFFSZC9

2. Guagua to Casa Nega (Start of the Hike)

Casa Nega drop-off
https://goo.gl/maps/p8r7F2u2yHnzwojv6
Approx. 4km after the town of El Limón. Known as ‘Casa Nega‘ at the 19km road marking

From Las Terrenas:

Take the early guagua
Cost: ~150 DOP
Ask for: Casa Nega after El Limón

This drop-off sets you up for a mostly downhill hike to Salto El Limón waterfall, which is far easier than the standard route.

Tell the driver:
“Casa Nega, después de El Limón.”

You’ll be dropped about 4 km past El Limón village, near a roadside sign and a dirt track.

3. Hiking to the Waterfall (Back Route)

From the main road:

Cross the road carefully and walk in the same direction as the guagua
You will see the signs for “Cascada El Limón” and “Casa Nega”
Follow the signs and take a left up the dirt road uphill

At the top of the hill:

Spot a small wooden house
Look for a fence crossing (stile)
Enter the field and follow the worn trail

Bonus: First Viewpoint

Climb slightly to the ridge for a wide, cinematic view over the rainforest. Worth the 2-minute detour.

From here, the trail becomes clear:

Descend gradually
Follow the main path
Cross a shallow river

Turn left shortly after → waterfall entrance.

First Viewpoint over the subtropical rainforest of El Limón in Samaná

Walk directly down to the path and keep following it all the way until you hit your first river crossing. It’s shallow and has a small path across it. Immediately after you can turn left and head to the waterfall entrance.

4. Arrive Early and Beat the Crowds

Salto El Limón waterfall
https://maps.app.goo.gl/SnEFrwcGc4mhbfjf6

If you took the 07:15 guagua, you might arrive before ticket staff.

Early arrival: often free entry
Later arrival: ~50 DOP

Arriving early has advantages:

Fewer tourists at the waterfall
Cooler temperatures for hiking
Sometimes no entrance fee

Pro tip

Before heading down:

Walk behind the souvenir stand
You’ll get a direct top-down view of the waterfall

Then descend to the base.

Swimming at Salto El Limón Waterfall

The payoff: a 40-metre cascade crashing into a natural pool.

The highlight of hiking to Salto El Limón is reaching the waterfall itself.

Height: ~40 metres
Natural pool for swimming
You can swim directly under the waterfall

This is one of the most scenic waterfalls in the Dominican Republic, and arriving early makes a huge difference.

Expect strong spray and slippery rocks
Water is cool, refreshing, and deep enough for a proper dip

This is the moment the effort pays off.

Salto El Limon — Salto El Limón the 40m high waterfall with natural pool

5. The Exit Route (Standard Path Out)

Instead of going back the same way:

Cross the wooden bridge
Follow the path to the right downstream
Pass a smaller waterfall
Begin a steady uphill climb

You will see people walking the opposite direction, don’t be worried.
You’ll then reach:

A clearing with views over the falls on your left
A gift shop area
Mule parking zone

From here:

Continue forward and descending, you will see poeple on mule back riding the opposite direction
Cross the river
Follow the water line briefly (~100 m)

You’ll exit near:

The river crossing – A water pump and pipe and a dirt track leading to the left
Keep walking past the official entrance road
Keep walking past houses to the main road
Turn right → walk back downhill to El Limón village on the main road

View over Salto El Limon in the Dominican Republic — View over Salto El Limón on the walk OUT!

6. Return to Las Terrenas

Return guagua stop in El Limón
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RxGRoHNB7UkJjFUW8

Catch a guagua from El Limón:

Same route back
Similar cost (~150 DOP)
Frequency: regular but not fixed

Guagua Dropoff in Las Terrenas
https://maps.app.goo.gl/u73v4h4f5SdVys8B9

Why This Route Works Better

Most people:

Start in El Limón
Ride horses
Climb uphill both ways

You:

Descend into the jungle
Arrive early
Avoid crowds
Pay less
Get better views

It’s the same waterfall, just approached intelligently.

FAQ: Hiking to Salto El Limón

Is it safe to hike without a guide?

Yes. The trail is clear, well-used, and easy to follow with offline maps.

Do I need good fitness?

Moderate fitness is enough. One uphill section on the way out is the only challenge.

Can you swim at the waterfall?

Yes. Swimming is one of the highlights.

Is it worth it without a tour?

Absolutely. You save money, avoid crowds, and control your pace.

Do You Need a Guide for Salto El Limón?

No, not for this route if you’re confident with offline maps.
A guide may be useful if you’re nervous, travelling solo, or uncomfortable navigating rural trails.
You do not need to take a horse tour.Go early and be respectful around local access points.

Final Take

This isn’t just a hike. It’s a small logistical puzzle that rewards initiative.

We’re not saying tours are wrong, but if you prefer walking independently, this quieter route gives you a completely different experience.

And for a brief window, Salto El Limón feels like it belongs to you.

April 19, 2022 0 comments

Serbia

Where We Ate in Belgrade

by Livia January 15, 2020

written by Livia

Latest updated: June 2026

We spent just over two weeks in Belgrade and absolutely loved the city. One of the main reasons was the food.

Belgrade has a surprisingly diverse food scene. You’ll find everything from traditional Serbian restaurants and street food stalls to excellent Asian cuisine and more upscale European dining. No matter your budget or taste, there’s plenty to choose from.

It’s also a great city to explore on foot, stopping for coffee, pastries or a meal as you go. During our stay, we tried quite a few places, and these were some of our favourites.

Here’s our guide to where to eat in Belgrade.

Where to Eat Traditional Serbian Food in Belgrade

Zavičaj

This was one of our favourite places in Belgrade for traditional Serbian food. Located in the Savamala district, close to the bus station, it’s easy to reach and conveniently situated near many of the city’s attractions.

The atmosphere is lively and welcoming, and the food was consistently delicious. One detail we particularly liked was that the beer was served in traditional clay mugs, which added a nice local touch to the experience.

It may be a little more touristy than some other restaurants in Belgrade, but the quality of the food was excellent and the prices remained very reasonable.

Znak Pitanja (Question Mark)

This is said to be the oldest restaurant in Belgrade and is well worth a visit for the atmosphere alone. While it attracts plenty of tourists, we still had a very enjoyable meal here.

The setting feels historic and full of character, making it a great place to experience a piece of Belgrade’s past while enjoying traditional Serbian cuisine.

Prices were a little higher than at Zavičaj, but still reasonable by Western European standards. It’s also conveniently located just off the main pedestrian street, making it an easy stop while exploring the city centre.

Tri Šešira

This is one of the more famous restaurants in Skadarlija and, as a result, quite touristy. Despite that, we enjoyed the food and thought it was a good place to try some traditional Serbian dishes.

One thing to keep in mind is that several nearby restaurants have very similar names, so double-check that you’re heading to the right one before sitting down. It’s a popular spot for a reason, and while it’s firmly on the tourist trail, we still had a good meal here.

Where to Find Great Asian Food in Belgrade

中华食府 X.WANG’S KITCHEN

This was our favourite restaurant in Belgrade, and we lost count of how many times we ate here during our stay.

Run by a Chinese family, the restaurant specialises in authentic Sichuan cuisine and serves some of the best Chinese food we’ve had outside of China. Our favourite dish was the Sichuan beef, a generous portion that’s easily large enough to share. Add a bowl of rice and a couple of side dishes, and you have a fantastic meal.

It’s located in the Savamala district, making it easy to reach from most parts of the city. If you enjoy Chinese food, this would be one of our top recommendations in Belgrade.

Wok Republic

This is technically a fast-food restaurant, but it has a comfortable seating area and a fun atmosphere that makes it a great place to stop for a quick meal.

If you’re looking for affordable and tasty noodles in Belgrade, this is an excellent choice. The portions are generous, the prices are low and the food is packed with flavour.

We enjoyed it so much that we ended up coming back several times during our stay.

The cool Asian street style interior at Wok Republic

MOON Sushi & Fusion Food

Our server told us that this was the first sushi restaurant in Belgrade, and whether that’s true or not, it’s certainly one of the city’s more established Asian restaurants.

The menu features a mix of sushi and Asian fusion dishes, all served in a stylish setting by friendly and attentive staff.

Prices are on the higher side compared to many restaurants in Belgrade, but if you’re craving good sushi or a break from Balkan cuisine, it’s definitely worth considering.

Great Western Food in Belgrade

Homa Bistrot

Located close to Saint Sava Church, this restaurant serves a mix of Serbian and Western European dishes, making it a good choice if you’re dining with people who have different tastes.

Everything we tried was well prepared and full of flavour, and the quality of the food was consistently high.

It was particularly popular with local families, especially at weekends. If you’re planning to visit on a Saturday, it’s worth making a reservation or arriving outside the busy lunch hours.

Fat Boys Food co.

If you’re craving a good burger, this is the place to go. The burgers aren’t the cheapest in Belgrade, but they’re definitely worth the price. Portions are huge, and you’ll almost certainly leave feeling full.

The restaurant is located in the Dorćol neighbourhood, one of our favourite parts of Belgrade. The area is full of interesting cafés, bars and independent shops, making it a great place to spend a few hours before or after your meal.

January 15, 2020 0 comments

Serbia

Niš: Our Unexpected Introduction to Serbia

by Livia January 13, 2020

written by Livia

Latest updated: June 2026

Our first stop in Serbia was Niš, a city in the south of the country. To be honest, it wasn’t our favourite stop on this trip. Compared to some of the other places we visited in the Balkans, Niš felt quite industrial and a little rough around the edges. The bus journey there took us through a number of grey, post-industrial towns, which probably didn’t help our first impression.

That said, Niš has an interesting history and a handful of sights that make it worth considering if you’re passing through southern Serbia.

We spent three nights in Niš, which felt like enough time to see the main attractions and get a feel for the city. We didn’t do a huge amount while we were there, partly because we visited in December when the weather was cold and grey. Perhaps on a sunny spring day we would have seen the city a little differently.

Where to stay in Niš

We stayed at NAR Royalton Accommodation, a comfortable place within walking distance of the city centre. It worked well as a base for exploring Niš for a few days and was a good option for our 3 nights in Niš.

What to do in Niš

Old Fortress

One of the nicest areas in Niš is the old fortress. Today, it’s less of a fortress and more of a large park surrounded by historic walls. Inside you’ll find walking paths, a few historical monuments and plenty of open space to relax.

It’s a pleasant place for a stroll, especially on Sundays when many locals come here to walk, meet friends and enjoy the outdoors. There are also a few cafés within the grounds and even a small petting zoo.

Cost: Free of charge.

Visit the Local Market

Next to the entrance of the fortress you’ll find a local market, mostly selling fresh fruit and vegetables. It’s a lively place to wander around and get a glimpse of everyday life in Niš.

Alongside the produce stalls, there are also a handful of vendors selling souvenirs, local products and handmade crafts, making it a worthwhile stop while exploring this part of the city.

Visit the Crveni Krst/Red Cross Concentration Camp

Niš has a dark and complex history, and one of the most important places to learn about it is the former Red Cross Concentration Camp (Crveni Krst).

Visiting the camp is not an easy experience, but it is an important one. Before arriving in Niš, we had no idea that there had been concentration camps in Serbia during World War II. This camp was used by the occupying Nazi forces to imprison thousands of people, including Serbs, Jews, Roma and members of the resistance movement. Many of those held here never left alive.

Today, the site serves as a memorial and museum, helping visitors understand a difficult chapter of both Serbian and European history. While it was one of the hardest places we visited in Niš, it was also one of the most meaningful.

Cost: Small entrance fee. (Check current prices before visiting.)

A very emotional, but important place to visit

Skull Tower

Another reminder of Niš’s turbulent past is the Skull Tower (Ćele Kula). Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit, so we didn’t get the chance to see it for ourselves.

The tower is one of the city’s most famous landmarks and has a rather grim history. Following a battle against the Ottoman Empire in 1809, the skulls of Serbian rebels were built into a stone tower as a warning to others who might resist Ottoman rule.

Today, the remaining skulls are preserved inside a chapel, and the site serves as an important historical monument. Even though we missed it, it would be high on our list for a future visit to Niš.

Visit Kazandžijsko Sokače/Tinkers Alley

One of the nicest areas in Niš is Kazandžijsko Sokače, also known as Tinkers Alley. This small historic street is one of the few parts of the city that survived the destruction of the Second World War and gives a glimpse of what Niš once looked like.

Today, the street is lined with cafés, bars and restaurants, making it a pleasant place to stop for a drink or a meal. While it’s not a large attraction, it has far more character than many other parts of the city and is worth a short visit while exploring the centre of Niš.

Where to eat in Niš

Dve krigle pivnica (Permanently closed)

This place was highly recommended by our host, so naturally we had to give it a try. It was a lively local bar serving beer and chicken wings sold by weight, a concept we hadn’t come across before. The atmosphere was fun, the prices were low and it was always busy with locals, making it a great spot for a casual night out.

Update 2026: It appears that this bar has permanently closed since our visit. It’s a shame, as it was one of our favourite places in Niš, but hopefully another local favourite has taken its place.

Galija

Galija is a traditional Serbian restaurant serving generous portions of local favourites. It felt a little more tourist-oriented than some of the places we usually seek out, but the food was tasty, the portions were huge and it’s a good option if you’d like to try some classic Serbian dishes during your stay in Niš.

January 13, 2020 0 comments

Macedonia

Skopje: Bizarre, Fascinating and Worth a Visit

by Livia August 16, 2019

written by Livia

Our second and final stop in North Macedonia was Skopje. We didn’t quite know what to expect and were surprised by this eclectic capital. Skopje seems to have a bit of everything: a historic Old Bazaar, brutalist architecture, and a city centre packed with statues and monuments. And when we say packed, we mean they’re everywhere.

We spent a week in Skopje, renting an Airbnb within walking distance of the centre, and really enjoyed our time there. It was also the cheapest capital city we visited during our journey through the Balkans, making it an easy place to slow down and explore at our own pace.

Where to stay in Skopje

We stayed in an Airbnb on Aminta Treti Street, which was a great location for exploring Skopje on foot. There were plenty of restaurants, cafés and shops nearby, and we could easily walk to the city centre and many of the main sights.

There are also plenty of hotels and guesthouses across central Skopje, with lots of options within walking distance of the main attractions. You can browse accommodation in Skopje here.

What to do in Skopje

Stari Grad

The Old Bazaar is one of the main attractions in Skopje and is well worth a wander. While it wasn’t our favourite old town in the Balkans, it felt more authentic and lived-in than many others we visited.

Instead of being packed with souvenir shops and tourist restaurants, much of the area is still used by locals. You’ll find cafés, bakeries and traditional restaurants alongside historic buildings and narrow streets. This may be partly because North Macedonia still receives far fewer tourists than some of its Balkan neighbours.

Go on a brutalist architecture walk

Skopje is also known for its abundance of brutalist architecture. If you’re interested in architecture, especially the bold and often unusual designs that emerged during the Yugoslav era, you’ll find plenty to explore here.

Many of these concrete structures stand in stark contrast to the city’s newer monuments and historic areas, adding to Skopje’s eclectic character. A few notable examples include:

Undergraduate Dormitories ”Goce Delcev”: student housing building:

Post office: another good example of brutalist architecture in Skopje

Beyond the well-known landmarks, we recommend simply wandering through some of the residential neighbourhoods outside the city centre. This is where you’ll find many of Skopje’s remaining examples of brutalist and socialist-era architecture.

Much of the city’s historic modernist character has already been replaced or hidden by newer developments, and many of these buildings are gradually disappearing. If you’re interested in this architectural style, now is a good time to see it before more of it is gone.

Street art

Sam is always on the lookout for street art, and Skopje turned out to be a surprisingly good city for it. While you can find murals and graffiti scattered throughout the city, there are a few areas that stand out.

One of our favourites was the area around the Autonomous Cultural and Social Center. It can be a little difficult to find, but you don’t need to locate the centre itself. Simply explore the surrounding blocks and you’ll come across plenty of interesting artwork.

We also found some great pieces between the arena and City Park, as well as along the riverside walkway, where long stretches of walls are covered in colourful murals and graffiti. If you enjoy urban art, it’s worth setting aside some time to wander and see what you discover.

Street art by the Autonomous Cultural and Social Center

Old building filled with Graffiti by the stadium

Go to an Abandoned factory

We have always been drawn to abandoned places. There’s something fascinating about seeing how nature, time and people slowly reclaim a space once it has been left behind.

A graffiti shop owner near our apartment recommended an abandoned factory on the outskirts of the city as a good place to see street art, so one afternoon we decided to check it out for ourselves.

The factory grounds were easy to access and covered a surprisingly large area. Several buildings had already partially collapsed, while others still looked relatively intact. We chose not to go inside any of them, as it was impossible to know how structurally safe they were, but even exploring the exterior was well worth the visit. The combination of decaying industrial buildings and colourful graffiti made for an interesting contrast.

It was a really interesting place to explore and offered plenty of unique photo opportunities. There’s something about abandoned places that we find strangely beautiful. The mix of decay, history and nature slowly taking over creates an atmosphere that’s hard to describe.

We weren’t completely alone, though. A man was also living on the factory grounds and, as he didn’t speak English, we couldn’t really communicate with him. We later learned from the owner of the graffiti shop that a few people were known to stay there and generally kept to themselves.

At the time, however, we had no idea who he was or what his intentions were, so we kept our distance. When he picked up an axe and started walking around the site, we decided that our visit had come to a natural end and headed back towards the city.

A quick word of caution: abandoned buildings are never completely safe. There was broken glass everywhere, unstable structures and buildings in various states of collapse throughout the site.

We chose to stay outside and did not enter any of the buildings. Access rules can also change over time, and entering abandoned properties may be illegal or considered trespassing. If you decide to visit, use common sense and do so at your own risk.

Count all the statues

As we mentioned earlier, the city centre is absolutely packed with statues. They are impossible to miss and are one of the things that make Skopje feel so unusual.

Most of these monuments were added as part of the Skopje 2014 project, a large redevelopment initiative launched by the Macedonian government. The aim was to give the city centre a more classical appearance through the construction of new museums, government buildings and monuments. While the new buildings are certainly noticeable, it is the sheer number of statues that most visitors remember.

The project proved highly controversial and divided public opinion. Some people welcomed the redevelopment and felt it gave the city a stronger identity, while others argued that the money could have been spent on more pressing priorities. Originally budgeted at around €80 million, the final cost reportedly grew to well over €500 million, adding to the debate surrounding the project.

The exact number of statues is unclear, but there are hundreds of them scattered throughout the city centre. In many ways, they have become a tourist attraction in their own right.

Walking through central Skopje is a surreal experience. Grand classical-style buildings, many of them relatively new, stand alongside countless statues of historical figures, national heroes and the occasional monument that simply leaves you scratching your head. To add to the atmosphere, there are even two pirate ship-style buildings floating in the river.

Whether you love it or hate it, it’s certainly memorable. For us, the city centre was fascinating to see, but we found ourselves preferring other parts of Skopje, particularly neighbourhoods beyond the main tourist area.

Where to eat in Skopje

We cooked a lot ourselves in Skopje, especially dinners. So we didn’t try that many restaurants, but we have a couple to recommend.

Kafana Gostilnica Ka

We went here a couple of times. A great little BBQ place serving traditional food for very affordable prices. This is out of the city centre (still central) so it’s a local place.

Turist Grill

Despite the name, this is a good go-to in the old town for affordable ćevapi.

August 16, 2019 0 comments

Macedonia

Exploring Ohrid: North Macedonia’s Lakeside Gem

by Livia August 15, 2019

written by Livia

Latest update: May 2026

We initially planned to stay in Ohrid for just a couple of nights, but kept extending our stay and eventually spent a full week there. It didn’t take long for us to fall in love with this lakeside town. Staying in an apartment near the waterfront, we spent our days walking along the lake, exploring the old town and lingering over coffee while watching daily life go by.

We visited in late November and early December, firmly in the off-season, and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. The crowds had disappeared, the atmosphere was relaxed, and although the weather was mixed, we still had several beautiful sunny days spent sitting outside at cafés overlooking the lake.

One downside of visiting at this time of year is that some restaurants, shops and attractions in the old town close for the season. For us, however, that wasn’t much of a drawback. Most of the closures were in the more tourist-focused areas, and visiting in winter gave us a chance to experience a quieter, more local side of Ohrid.

There really is some magical about Lake Ohrid and I would love to come back to explore more of the area around it.

Where to stay in Ohrid

We stayed in an Airbnb near Old Bazar Street, which was a great location for exploring the area on foot. There were plenty of restaurants, cafés and shops within walking distance, and we could easily walk to many of the main sights.

There are also plenty of hotels and guesthouses around the Old Bazaar and elsewhere in central Ohrid, making it easy to find somewhere within walking distance of the main sights. You can browse accommodation in Ohrid here.

What to do in Ohrid

Ohrid isn’t a large place, but between the lakeside walks, historic sights and café culture, we had no trouble filling our days.

St. John church

This is probably the most famous sight in Ohrid: a beautiful church perched on a cliff overlooking the lake. It’s easy to see why it has become the town’s most photographed landmark.

We can imagine it gets very busy during the summer months, but during our visit we often had the area almost entirely to ourselves, occasionally sharing it with just another couple or two. Sitting there overlooking the lake in the quiet winter sunshine felt pretty magical.

Walking bridge

A wooden lakeside walkway connects the old town with the path leading towards St. John at Kaneo. We found ourselves returning here again and again, especially in the early morning and late afternoon when the light over the lake was at its most beautiful.

The views along this stretch are some of the best in Ohrid, and there are also a handful of cafés and restaurants where you can sit and enjoy the scenery while watching the boats drift across the water.

@abearcalledpaddington enjoying a walk on the bridge.

Walk around Ohrid Old town

We didn’t spend as much time in the old town as we normally would, mainly because many of the cafés, restaurants and shops were closed for the season. Even so, it was still a lovely area to explore on foot.

The old town is home to several historic churches, narrow cobbled streets and plenty of traditional houses overlooking the lake. It’s the kind of place where it’s worth putting away the map and simply wandering around to see what you stumble across.

One of the sights in the old town is the Ancient Theatre of Ohrid. During our visit it was a peaceful place to sit for a while and take in the surroundings, although we imagine it becomes much busier during the summer months.

The theatre also became a regular stop for us for another reason. A small family of stray dogs had made the area their home, and we often stopped by to check on them during our stay. If they’re still around when you visit, perhaps spare a thought for them. A little kindness, some fresh water or a snack can go a long way.

Green market

Ohrid also has a large local market that is well worth a visit. We enjoyed wandering between the stalls, sampling local produce and picking up fresh vegetables to cook back at our apartment.

It’s a great place to get a glimpse of everyday life in the city and, if you’re anything like us and enjoy visiting local markets when you travel, you’ll probably end up spending longer here than planned.

Surrounding area

There are also plenty of places to visit beyond Ohrid itself, including mountain viewpoints, historic monasteries, lakeside villages and some beautiful scenery around the lake.

We didn’t explore much of the surrounding area, mainly because we didn’t have a car and were perfectly happy spending our time in Ohrid itself. With the lakeside walks, cafés and historic sights, we never felt short of things to do.

Where to eat in Ohrid

One thing that surprised us about Ohrid was just how many restaurants there were. Despite being a relatively small town, we found plenty of places to eat and ended up having several excellent meals during our stay.

The prices were also very reasonable, making it easy to try different cafés and restaurants without worrying too much about the bill. Below are a few of the places we enjoyed and would happily recommend.

Македонска софра (Makedonska Sofra)

This was our first meal in Ohrid, and we enjoyed it so much that we returned several times during our stay. At the time, the restaurant didn’t appear to have an English name, and the staff seemed slightly surprised to see tourists walk through the door.

During the winter months they had a covered outdoor seating area heated by wood-burning stoves, which made it a cosy place to escape the cold. The menu featured traditional North Macedonian dishes, the portions were generous, and the prices were incredibly reasonable. It quickly became one of our favourite places to eat in Ohrid.

The BBQ street

Near the green market you’ll find a street lined almost entirely with barbecue restaurants. We ended up eating here several times, trying a few different places along the way.

Most of the restaurants serve similar Balkan grilled dishes, with generous portions and very affordable prices. If you’re looking for a good, no-frills meal, we can recommend Brioni 2008 and Кебапчиница АДАНА, both of which served tasty food at reasonable prices.

Кебапчиница АДАНА was especially busy at lunchtime on weekends, with tables full of locals enjoying grilled meat, fresh salads and long meals with family and friends. That’s usually a good sign, and it quickly became our favourite of the two restaurants.

The food was simple, tasty and inexpensive, exactly the kind of local place we enjoy finding when we travel.

Restaurant Delikates (permanently closed)

There’s a lot of Greek food in North Macedonia, especially in the areas close to the border. This little greek restaurant in Ohrid was great. We enjoyed lots of food and wine here one rainy afternoon, and the owners were super sweet and helpful. It was also very cheap.

Update May 2026: unfortunately this restaurant seems to be permanently closed now

Kaneo Restaurant

Located right by the lake near St. John at Kaneo, this restaurant enjoys one of the best settings in Ohrid. We expected it to be a bit of a tourist trap given the location, but were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food.

It was more expensive than most of the places we ate in Ohrid, but still good value considering the location and experience. If you’re planning to treat yourself to one special meal while you’re in town, this is a great choice.

August 15, 2019 0 comments

Newer Posts

Older Posts