Kilifi was love at first sight. Well, almost.
When we first arrived, we weren’t entirely convinced. The town didn’t seem particularly exciting, everything was quite spread out, and we weren’t sure what we’d find here. But it didn’t take long for Kilifi to win us over.
After spending two weeks here, it became one of our favourite places along the Kenyan coast. Beautiful, almost empty beaches, a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere, friendly people and some really lovely places to eat and hang out.
Unlike some of Kenya’s more popular beach destinations, Kilifi doesn’t feel particularly touristy. It’s a real, working town rather than somewhere built around tourism, and that’s part of its charm.
The town itself doesn’t have much in the way of tourist attractions, but that’s not really why you come to Kilifi. You come for the beaches, the creek, the peaceful surroundings and the chance to slow down for a while.
Getting to Know Kilifi
One thing worth knowing before visiting Kilifi is that it’s quite spread out, with several different areas offering slightly different experiences.
Bofa Beach is where you’ll find the long stretch of beautiful sandy beach, a handful of resorts and accommodation options. It’s peaceful and a great choice if you’re looking for a relaxing beach stay.
Kilifi Creek offers a different setting, with calm water, waterfront restaurants, sailing and sunset dhow cruises.
The Plantation area is greener and more rural, with some lovely restaurants, creative spaces and quiet countryside roads.
Then there’s Kilifi town, which is a normal Kenyan town with local shops, markets and everyday life. It’s useful for shopping and getting things done, but there’s not much specifically aimed at tourists.
Although the different areas are spread out, getting around is fairly easy. There are plenty of motos (motorbike taxis) and tuk-tuks, and we never had trouble finding transport.
We also walked quite a bit, particularly around Bofa Beach and the Plantation area.
Where to Stay in Kilifi
Where you stay in Kilifi really depends on what kind of experience you’re looking for.
If you want long beach walks, beautiful sea views and a peaceful atmosphere, we’d recommend looking around Bofa Beach. If you’d rather be closer to water sports, restaurants and the creek, the Kilifi Creek area might suit you better.
We spent two weeks in Kilifi, staying in two different apartments in the same building along Bofa Road. The building itself was a little dated, but both apartments were comfortable and offered really good value for money.
The second apartment was particularly lovely, with absolutely beautiful sea views. We spent a lot of time working and relaxing while looking out over the ocean, which was pretty hard to beat.
The area was quiet, with not a huge amount within immediate walking distance. But that wasn’t really a problem. We could walk to a few places, and there were always motos available when we wanted to go further.
For us, it was a great base, especially since we were staying for two weeks rather than just a couple of nights.
Best Places to Eat in Kilifi
We found some really lovely places to eat in Kilifi, from casual beach restaurants to more unusual spots tucked away in the countryside.
Here are the places we tried, including a few that we kept returning to.
Indigo Vibe Café
If there’s one place we could recommend in Kilifi, it’s Indigo Vibe.
We went there multiple times during our two-week stay!
It’s a lovely, relaxed café with excellent coffee, lighter meals and some seriously good sandwiches. After weeks of travelling, a really good sandwich was exactly what we wanted.
The service was always fantastic, and the owner, Seb, was incredibly kind and helpful. He even helped us organise our sunset dhow cruise.
They also have happy hour drinks on Fridays, making it a nice place to spend an afternoon or early evening.
Definitely one of our favourite spots in Kilifi.
Salty’s on the beach
Salty’s is a lovely beachfront restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere, good food and super friendly staff. Located within Salty’s Kitesurf Village
It’s a great place to stop for lunch or drinks while spending the day at Bofa Beach. We really liked the vibe here, and the beachfront setting makes it an easy place to spend a few hours.
They also have a floating restaurant on the creek, but we didn’t get a chance to try it.
Salt and Smoke
If you’re in the mood for something a little different, Salt and Smoke is an Argentinian restaurant specialising in grilled meats and steaks. The steaks were really good, and it made a nice change from the seafood and Swahili dishes we’d been eating along the coast.
We did find it a little overpriced for what it was, but it’s worth considering if you’re craving a good steak.
White Star
White Star is a relaxed restaurant right by Kilifi Creek.
The food was reasonably priced, with plenty of seafood options and other grilled dishes. I ordered the grilled chicken, which came in a huge portion!
It’s a nice, casual place to enjoy a meal overlooking the creek, particularly after a sunset dhow cruise. The dhow can even drop you off right at the restaurant.
Local Beach Restaurants Near Salty’s
Along the beach near Salty’s, you’ll find a few small local restaurants serving food right by the ocean. They’re simple places with a lovely atmosphere, and we’d definitely recommend trying one.
However, we did have one slightly frustrating experience here.
A guy approached us on the beach and convinced us to eat at one of the restaurants. We were tired, hungry and clearly not thinking straight, because we ended up paying far more than we should have. The food itself was okay, but we were massively overcharged. We’re also pretty sure it wasn’t even his restaurant, as the food appeared to come from somewhere else nearby.
Our advice? Absolutely try one of the local restaurants, but choose the place yourself, ask to see a menu and confirm the prices before ordering. And be cautious about following someone who approaches you on the beach.
The Food Movement
We didn’t actually eat at The Food Movement, but we stopped by for coffee and really liked the place.
It’s a creative little space in the Plantation area, with food, shops and a relaxed atmosphere.
Even if you’re not planning to eat here, it’s worth stopping by for a look around, particularly if you’re exploring this part of Kilifi.
Twisted Fig / Underneath the Baobab
This is one of the most unusual restaurant settings we visited along the Kenyan coast.
The restaurant sits beneath an enormous baobab tree, overlooking a beautiful green valley. It’s a really impressive setting, and the atmosphere alone makes it worth visiting.
We thought the food was okay rather than amazing, but the surroundings more than made up for it.
And if you’re coming from the Plantation side, you get to enter via a drawbridge, which makes the whole experience even more memorable.
We combined our visit with a walk through the countryside from The Food Movement, which we’d highly recommend.
Things to Do in Kilifi
Kilifi isn’t a destination packed with major tourist attractions, and that’s exactly what we liked about it.
Most of our time was spent enjoying the beaches, trying different restaurants, working with beautiful sea views and generally taking things slowly.
But there are still some lovely things to do if you feel like exploring.
Spend a Day at Bofa Beach
Bofa Beach is easily one of the highlights of Kilifi.
It’s a long, beautiful stretch of sand, and during our visit in September, it was almost completely empty. We could walk for ages without seeing many other people.
There were a handful of beach boys around, but nowhere near as many as we’d encountered elsewhere along the coast. For the most part, we could enjoy our walks without being approached constantly.
Our favourite section of the beach was around The Palm House, which you can find on Google Maps. The beach was particularly beautiful here during our visit, although conditions naturally change with the tides and seasons.
You can simply walk along the sand until you find a spot you like, or take a moto to one of the public beach access points.
If you’re looking for a peaceful beach without crowds, Bofa is a fantastic choice.
High Tide, Low Tide and Seagrass at Bofa Beach
Like much of the Kenyan coast, Bofa Beach changes quite dramatically with the tides.
At low tide, the water retreats and exposes a huge stretch of sand, making it a lovely time for long beach walks. At high tide, the water comes much closer to shore, and the beach can look completely different.
If you’re planning a beach day, it’s worth checking the local tide times beforehand, especially if you want to swim or go for a long walk.
Another thing to be aware of is seagrass and seaweed. During our visit in September, some sections of Bofa Beach had quite a lot of washed-up seagrass, while others were almost completely clear.
The difference was quite noticeable, even along the same beach. So if you arrive somewhere with lots of seagrass, don’t be put off! Walk a little further or try another section of the beach, and you might find a much clearer stretch.
Seagrass is a natural and important part of the coastal ecosystem, and conditions vary depending on the tides, currents and time of year.
Take a Sunset Dhow Cruise on Kilifi Creek
One of our favourite experiences in Kilifi was taking a sunset dhow cruise on the creek.
The creek is a beautiful place to explore, with calm water, green surroundings and lovely views as the sun begins to set. It’s a completely different atmosphere from the open beaches around Bofa.
We arranged our cruise with help from Seb at Indigo Vibe Café.
If you’re spending a few days in Kilifi, we’d definitely recommend making time for a sunset cruise.
Explore the Plantation Area
One afternoon, we decided to walk from The Food Movement to Twisted Fig through the Plantation area. It turned out to be one of our favourite little adventures in Kilifi.
The scenery was beautiful, with quiet countryside paths, lots of greenery and a completely different feel from the beachfront.
We did manage to get a little lost at one point, so we knocked on someone’s door to ask for directions.
A lovely man came out to help us, and rather than simply pointing us in the right direction, he walked with us for about ten minutes to make sure we found the correct path.
Such a kind gesture, and one of those little travel moments that stays with you.
We walked more or less straight from The Food Movement towards Twisted Fig, but this route eventually reaches a dead end where you need to find your way through some smaller paths. It’s a beautiful walk, but not particularly straightforward.
If you’d prefer an easier route, follow the map below, which takes you along roads and larger paths towards the drawbridge entrance.
Either way, it’s a lovely area to explore if you enjoy walking and seeing a different side of Kilifi.
Enjoy a Pool Day at Silver Palm Spa & Resort
If you fancy a change from the beach, there are a few resorts around Kilifi where you can pay to visit as a day guest.
We spent a day at Silver Palm Spa & Resort on Bofa Beach.
The resort has a beautiful, large swimming pool, and it was a really nice place to relax for the day.
During our visit, day access cost KES 2,000 per person, which we thought was a little pricey. The food wasn’t particularly impressive either, but we still enjoyed our day there.
The beachfront area also looked lovely, so it’s worth considering if you want to combine a pool day with some beach time.
Check the current day-pass price and conditions before visiting.
Relax by the Creek at Mnarani Beach Club
Another lovely spot for a relaxing day is the beach area around Mnarani Beach Club and 3 Degrees South.
Unlike Bofa Beach, this beach is on Kilifi Creek, so the water can be much calmer when the open sea is rough.
It’s a cute, peaceful little spot where you can spend a few hours swimming, relaxing or enjoying the views.
You don’t need to be staying at the resort to visit the beach area, and there are options to pay for pool access.
During our visit, beach chairs cost KES 300 per person, even if you were ordering food.
We also found the food rather expensive and not particularly good, so we wouldn’t come here specifically for a meal.
But the setting is lovely, and it’s a nice place to spend a quiet afternoon.
Try Water Sports at 3 Degrees South
If you’re looking for something more active, 3 Degrees South is a sailing and water sports centre on Kilifi Creek.
They offer a range of water-based activities, making it a good option if you’d rather be out on the water than lying on the beach.
We were quite happy taking it easy, but it’s worth checking out if you enjoy sailing or other water sports.
How Long Should You Stay in Kilifi?
We spent two weeks in Kilifi and could easily have stayed longer.
Of course, you don’t need that much time to explore the area.
If you’re travelling along the Kenyan coast, three to five days would give you enough time to enjoy Bofa Beach, explore the creek, take a sunset dhow cruise and try a few of the restaurants.
But if you’re travelling slowly, working remotely or simply looking for somewhere peaceful to spend a little longer, Kilifi is a great choice.
We loved having time to settle into a routine, find our favourite cafés and enjoy the beautiful surroundings without feeling like we needed to do something every day.
In fact, we could easily see ourselves coming back for a month or two while working online.
How to Get to Kilifi
Kilifi is located along the Kenyan coast, north of Mombasa, and there are several ways to get here depending on your budget and where you’re travelling from.
The easiest option is to arrange a private taxi or drive yourself if you have a rental car.
For a more affordable option, there are also shared minibuses running from Mombasa SGR train station to Kilifi. These are a great choice for tourists, especially if you’re travelling with luggage.
They drop you off in Kilifi town, near Naivas supermarket, from where you can easily grab a moto or tuk-tuk to your accommodation.
Alternatively, you can travel by local matatu, which is generally the cheapest option.
How we got to Kilifi: We travelled from Diani by shared minibus to Mombasa SGR train station, where we changed to another shared minibus heading to Kilifi.
It was a convenient way to make the journey without paying for a private transfer all the way. It did take a little longer, as we had to wait at the station for about an hour before continuing to Kilifi.
How to Get Around Kilifi
Kilifi is quite spread out, so unless you’re staying somewhere with everything you need nearby, you’ll probably want to use local transport occasionally.
We mostly got around by moto (motorbike taxi), simply flagging one down outside our apartment on Bofa Road. They were easy to find and a convenient way to get between the beach, town and restaurants.
Tuk-tuks are another option, particularly if you’re travelling with someone or don’t fancy getting on a motorbike. We noticed more tuk-tuks around Kilifi town than along Bofa Road.
Whichever you choose, make sure to agree on the price before getting on, so there are no surprises when you arrive.
Bolt is also available in Kilifi, giving you another option for arranging transport.
We also did quite a bit of walking, particularly along Bofa Beach and around the Plantation area. However, distances between the different parts of Kilifi can be quite long, so it’s worth checking the location of your accommodation before booking.
Is Kilifi Worth Visiting?
Absolutely!
Kilifi really surprised us. It feels like a bit of a hidden gem, without the mass tourism you’ll find in some other destinations along the Kenyan coast.
It might not make the strongest first impression, especially if you’re expecting a lively beach resort town with lots of shops, restaurants and tourist attractions.
But give it a little time, and you’ll discover what makes it special.
The beautiful, largely empty beach, the lovely creek, the friendly people and the fact that it still feels like a normal Kenyan town rather than a destination built entirely for tourists.
We spent two wonderful weeks here, and it turned out to be one of our favourite stops along the Kenyan coast.
If you love quiet beaches, slow travel and places that haven’t been completely taken over by tourism, Kilifi might just win you over too.
