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Cogito Coffee Zagreb
Croatia

Our Favourite Cafés in Zagreb, Croatia

by Sam October 15, 2018
written by Sam

Last updated: May 2026

Where is the Best Coffee in Zagreb?

There are loads of places where you get a cup of black gold in and around Zagreb, but some of the best coffee in Zagreb can be found at the Cogito Coffee Shop, they have several shops dotted around the city and pride themselves in sourcing their coffee with care, emphasizing its seasonality and origin. It’s true. Their coffee is made with passion and served with love.

Check out their HQ ‘In the yard‘. It has a very nice outdoor seating area and is located just off the main street near the Botanical gardens.

Their other branch Deželića is much smaller and has an on street patio which is also nice, but not as relaxing.

Cogito Coffee Deželića Zagreb
Cogito Coffee Deželića Zagreb

Both coffee shops serve their own specialties and have great staff to help you choose from their extensive coffee varieties.

October 15, 2018 0 comments
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View over Zagreb Croatia
Croatia

Zagreb Is Better Than It First Appears

by Livia October 4, 2018
written by Livia

Zagreb is a beautiful city that we both really enjoyed! Many tourists skip Zagreb and only spend time at the coast, however, if you have longer time in Croatia, definitely visit Zagreb, we really enjoyed it. There’s loads of things to do and see and some great places to eat. This Zagreb travel guide is based on our experiences during our five days spent in Zagreb. We will not add the most touristy spots in this guide, as these are easy to find in any guidebook or online.

Beautiful views over Zagreb
Views over Zagreb

Things to See and Do in Zagreb

There is a ton to see and do in Zagreb, and we did not have time for all we wanted to do unfortunately. But these are some of our highlights listed:

Walk around Old Town

Yes, it is touristy, and we try to not do too many touristy things when travelling. But, the old town of any city is nice to stroll through to get glimpses of history. Just don’t eat here, as the prices are much higher than other parts of the city.

The Memorial Centre of the Rocket Attacks on Zagreb 1991/1995

This was probably the most interesting thing to do in Zagreb for us. It was quite emotional, but very interesting. The staff were very helpful and wanted to explain what happened and why. We didn’t know much about the war or the bombings of Zagreb, so we learned a lot. But again, it was quite emotional and many very strong and graphic photos and videos.

It was a little bit tricky to find as it was just in a normal doorway without any big signs. When you find the right door, go up one stair and ring the doorbell on the door with the sign and the staff will let you in.

Entrance: free

Door to The Memorial Centre of the Rocket Attacks on Zagreb 1991/1995
Door to The Memorial Centre of the Rocket Attacks on Zagreb 1991/1995

Mirogoj Cemetery

This cemetery is very beautiful. The beautiful arcade is the highlight of Mirogoj, with it’s beautiful architecture and the resting place for many famous Croats. It’s definitely worth going up to just walk around the arcade and the rest of the cemetery. Take a bus from the cathedral or walk up the hill.

Entrance: free

Tunnel Gric

This former bomb shelter during WWII and in the 90s is today a pedestrian tunnel under the city centre. It is a super cool place to walk through and almost completely empty when we were there. There are a five entrances, some a little tricky to find, but we used Google Maps and got to the right place.

Entrance: free

Inside Tunnel Grič
Inside Tunnel Grič

Park Maksimir

If you need to get out of the city centre for a bit and see some nature, head to the biggest part in Zagreb, Maksimir. It’s only a short tram ride from the centre. This is the perfect place to stroll around for an afternoon. It’s also where the city’s Zoo is located.

Entrance: free

Museum of Broken Relationships

It’s an entire museum about brake ups, some funny, some sad. Overall I think it was worth spending some time there but Sam didn’t enjoy it as much, so it depends on your interests.

Entrance: 40 kuna (ca. €5, October 2018).

Botanical Gardens

The Botanical Gardens was a nice place to walk around. None of us are really into flora and fauna, but it was still a nice walk in the sun. It was also very empty when we were there, and not many tourists at all.

Entrance: free

Botanical Garden in Zagreb
Botanical Garden in Zagreb

Explore all graffiti

Zagreb is full of beautiful, cool graffiti. Just walk around and explore and you will see loads, like a huge open air Art museum.

Graffiti in the Art park, and one of the entrances to the Grič tunnel
Graffiti in the Art park, and one of the entrances to the Grič tunnel

Drink coffee

As anywhere we go, we try to find the best coffee spots. There are loads of places to sit and relax with a hot cup of coffee and watch the world go by. See Sam’s guide to the best coffee in Zagreb.

Where to Eat in Zagreb

There are so many restaurants in Zagreb, as there is in any big city. Below are some places we found and really enjoyed.

Bistro Špajza

A small neighbourhood bistro owned by a super sweet older couple. They serve home made really good food. They have a daily menu, so it varies a bit depending on season etc. When we were there you got a soup and/or salad and could choose between three mains, risotto, pasta bolognese and beef cheeks with mashed potatoes.

Price: we paid €15 in total for 2 salads, 2 mains, water and 2 glasses of wine (October 2018).

Magazinska klet

This place is a typical BBQ restaurants, like the food you would find in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We had the mixed meat platter which was great – all fresh from the BBQ. It has a very homely feel to it and the staff was very friendly and helpful. There are three locations of this place, but we when to this one as it was the closest to our accommodation.

Price: we paid €30 in total for a huge plate of mixed meat, fries, mushrooms, a salad, bread, beans, 2 beers (big) and one baklava (October 2018). Mind you, it was enough food for 3-4 people.

Big meal at Magazinska Klet
Big meal at Magazinska Klet

Pithos

A very nice little lunch restaurant (only open until 17.00). You can choose from a daily menu with 3-4 dishes. It was all homemade nice food.

Price: the most expensive dish was €5 (October 2018).

Lašćinska Klet – Restoran – Ferenčina

This restaurant is a bit out of the city centre, next to Mirogoj Cemetery. It’s a very local place in a residential area, which we just stumbled upon after visiting Mirogoj. The food is very well made and home cooked, super delicious. Definitely worth a visit, especially if you combine it with a visit to Mirogoj.

Price: we paid €27 for two mains, a salad, a glass of wine and a beer (October 2018). It’s not the cheapest place to eat, but still worth a visit due to the quality.

October 4, 2018 0 comments
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The Amphitheater in Pula
Croatia

How to Spend a Few Days in Pula

by Sam October 1, 2018
written by Sam

Last updated: May 2026

Pula feels a little different from the Croatia many people picture. Instead of polished old towns packed with souvenir shops and endless island hopping tours, we found Roman ruins, salty sea air and a quieter, slightly rougher coastal city with a more local feel.

We came to Pula without huge expectations, but ended up really enjoying its relaxed atmosphere. One moment you’re walking past ancient Roman walls and the next you’re sitting by the harbour with a coffee watching everyday life drift by. It’s compact, easy to explore on foot and works well as a slower stop on a Croatia itinerary.

In this guide we’ll share the things we enjoyed most in Pula, from Roman landmarks and sunset walks to cafés, viewpoints and practical travel tips for visiting this historic city on Croatia’s Istrian coast.

What to Do in Pula

The city center is quite small with paved winding walkways, dozens of restaurants catering to the mostly day-time tourists which means in the evening it’s pretty quiet.

The Roman Amphitheater

The amphitheater is small enough to walk around in a half hour. You get a good view inside without having to pay the entrance fee. Infact Pula’s ampitheatre is more intact than it’s cousin in Rome, boasting a near complete ring of walls. It is also in regular use, staging the Film Festival, the opening night of electronic music bash Outlook, Dimensions and other big-name concerts.

The Amphitheater in Pula

Pula Triumphal Arch

The Arch of the Sergii remains the main gateway into what is now Pula’s historic center, virtually intact after more than 2,000 years. Today’s pedestrians walk below its portal to access ulica Sergijevaca. You can still see details relating to the events of 31BC, the names of the Sergii clan inscribed on the columns, and a chariot on the frieze.

Fort Monvidal

There is the old Fort on the hill, again no need to walk in and pay any entrance fee if you’re not really into forts and history. You can walk around the whole fort on the outside and get the same views of the historic center and the cranes of the nearby shipyard for free.

Pula Market

As well as the outside free market there is also the undercover market. It is housed in a historic building with a distinctive architectural style. Constructed out of wrought iron. Traders fill two floors with fish, meat and other local sundry produce, while local fresh fruit, vegetables, honeys, wines and oils can be found in abundance.

Most tourists will happily see all there is to offer in a day, but we stayed a couple of days and really enjoyed a slower pace here, sipping wine on the old Roman squares.

By the harbour in Pula
By the harbour in Pula
October 1, 2018 0 comments
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Bosnia-Herzegovina

Is Banja Luka Worth Visiting?

by Livia February 22, 2018
written by Livia

Banja Luka was our first stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina after arriving by bus from Croatia. On the way, we passed through a police checkpoint and when the officer asked where we were headed, he looked slightly puzzled when we replied, “Banja Luka.” He even asked us why we were going there.

Looking back, we can understand why. Banja Luka rarely appears on tourist itineraries. There aren’t many famous landmarks, the city isn’t particularly touristy, and most visitors head straight for places like Sarajevo or Mostar.

Yet we ended up really enjoying it.

Banja Luka felt very liveable, with leafy streets, a strong café culture and some of the best and cheapest food we had during our month in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s greener, more relaxed and offers a very different side of the country from the destinations most travellers visit. Definitely worth a stop here on a bigger Balkan trip.

If you’re wondering whether Banja Luka is worth visiting, here’s what we enjoyed most and where we recommend eating.

What to do in Banja Luka

There aren’t dozens of must-see attractions in Banja Luka, but there are a few places worth visiting. Combined with the city’s café culture, parks and excellent food scene, there’s more than enough to fill a couple of enjoyable days.

Banja Luka Fort

To be honest, there isn’t much of the fortress itself to see. What remains today is mostly the old walls rather than a grand castle or fort.

We still enjoyed visiting though. We climbed up onto the walls and spent some time watching the river flow past and local life unfold below. It was peaceful, quiet and felt far removed from the city centre.

We visited twice during our stay and had the place entirely to ourselves both times. Best of all, it’s free to visit, making it a great stop if you’re travelling on a budget.

Drink Coffee

You’ll probably find this recommendation in most of our Bosnia guides, but that’s because Bosnia and Herzegovina has a fantastic coffee culture. No matter where you go, you’ll find cafés packed with locals sitting over coffee for hours.

Our favourite coffee stop in Banja Luka was Kafe Bar Kancelarija. It’s a modern coffee bar with friendly staff and excellent coffee (Update May 2026: unfortunately it seems this coffee shop is permanently closed). Finding it can be a little confusing at first, as it’s tucked away behind an office building, but once you know where to look it’s easy enough to find.

Another place we enjoyed was the restaurant inside the fortress grounds, which is also listed in our recommendations below. The outdoor terrace overlooks the river and is a lovely spot to sit with a coffee and watch the world go by. Prices were slightly higher than elsewhere in the city, but still very affordable compared to Western Europe.

Go to Bars

One thing that quickly stood out to us in Banja Luka was how much of daily life seemed to revolve around cafés and bars. From morning coffees to evening beers, the terraces were always full of people meeting friends, chatting and watching the world go by.

One of the best things to do in Banja Luka is simply pick a bar, order a drink and soak up the atmosphere. If you’re feeling ambitious, you could even spend an afternoon or evening hopping between a few of them.

Walking Around Banja Luka

One of our favourite things to do in Banja Luka was simply wander around the city centre and see where we ended up. The city has a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere.

The main pedestrian street is lined with cafés, shops and bars, making it a great place to start exploring. As you walk around, you’ll notice a mix of architectural styles, from Austro-Hungarian buildings and religious landmarks to more modern and Soviet-era architecture.

Two buildings that stood out to us were the Orthodox Cathedral and the nearby mosque, both of which are worth stopping by while exploring the city centre. Neither takes long to visit, but together they help tell part of the story of Banja Luka’s diverse history.

Like much of the city, this isn’t about ticking off major sights. It’s about slowing down, wandering around and enjoying the atmosphere.

Where to eat in Banja Luka

Obelix Grill

Obelix grill restaurant, north of the center is a great Balkan Grill place with affordable prices. This was the cheapest mix grill we had in Balkans, and still very good and made on order. Definitely worth a visit whether your on a budget or not.

Restaurant Kazamat

We really enjoyed this restaurant, and were lucky enough to get a table on a weekend. We had a three course dinner with lots of wine for 60 euros in total (October 2018). It’s not the best food you will have in Bosnia, but the experience was worth it. The restaurant is set inside the fort with stone walls and big wooden tables. There was also a live band that played traditional music. We had a great evening here and would recommend for a visit. Just know that the portions are huge and make sure to book in advance as it most likely will be booked, at least during the weekend.

Kod Muje

There are two Kod Muje in Banja Luka, one next to the mosque and one just over the bridge by the river. It’s the same food and owners so visit either of them. We went to the one next to the Mosque and had some amazing Cevapi.

February 22, 2018 0 comments
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abearcalledpaddington

🌏 7 years full time travel
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I found a mystery in the bush 🐾🐾 While out explori I found a mystery in the bush
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While out exploring, I came across two sets of paw prints. One was nice and big, the other almost exactly the same shape... just much smaller. It looked as though a little one had been following along behind
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The tracks looked wonderfully fresh, which suddenly made me realise I might not be quite as alone as I thought. Perhaps it was time for this sensible little bear to hop back into the safari vehicle rather promptly! 😅
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Today, South Luangwa National Park put on quite a show. Hippos splashed, giraffes wandered gracefully across the plains, elephants ambled past, warthogs sprinted with their tails in the air, a crocodile basked in the sun, and I was lucky enough to spot both lions and a magnificent leopard. I even met a curious little genet on the night drive
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I’ve arrived in Mfuwe, right on the edge of South Luangwa National Park, where I’ll be glamping for the next two days and heading out on plenty of game drives in search of Africa’s incredible wildlife
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The best part? I don’t even have to leave my tent to start my safari. Across the river, a whole pod of hippos has been keeping me company. I always imagined hippos would be rather quiet… turns out they’re some of the noisiest neighbours I’ve ever had! I think tonight might require earplugs!
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