Asia

Lake Toba was probably the place we connected with least during our time in North Sumatra.

That’s not to say it isn’t beautiful. It absolutely is. The enormous volcanic lake, green hills and traditional Batak villages make this one of the most distinctive landscapes in Indonesia. But after spending five nights on Samosir Island we came away with mixed feelings.

For some reason, the atmosphere just felt a little off to us. We also found people noticeably less friendly than elsewhere we’d travelled in Indonesia, where we’d become so used to incredibly warm and welcoming interactions.

We’re still glad we visited, though. Lake Toba gave us a completely different experience from Bukit Lawang and Berastagi and introduced us to the culture and traditions of the Batak people.

Getting to Lake Toba from Berastagi

After hiking Mount Sibayak in Berastagi, our next stop was Lake Toba.

We travelled by road from Berastagi to Parapat, the main gateway for reaching Samosir Island. From there, we took the ferry across Lake Toba to Samosir.

The ferry journey is a lovely introduction to the lake. Once you leave Parapat behind, you begin to appreciate just how enormous Lake Toba actually is, with mountains and green hills surrounding the water in almost every direction.

Most travellers staying on Samosir head to Tuk Tuk, where you’ll find plenty of guesthouses, restaurants and accommodation along the lakeshore.

Where We Stayed on Samosir Island

We stayed at Tabo Cottages in Tuk Tuk for five nights.

It’s a well-established place with gardens, a pool and a lovely setting beside Lake Toba. There are different accommodation options spread around the property, and it’s an easy base for exploring this part of Samosir.

There’s also a strong German influence, including plenty of German food on the menu, which wasn’t necessarily what we expected to find in the middle of Sumatra!

The location worked well for us because we could spend quieter days around Tuk Tuk and explore parts of the island on foot, while also arranging a tour to see some of the places further into Samosir.

Exploring Samosir Island

We spent one day taking a tour further into Samosir and up into the hills.

Getting away from the lakeshore gives you a completely different perspective on the island. The roads climb above Lake Toba, opening up views across the water, surrounding mountains and villages below.

The scenery was probably what we enjoyed most about our time here. Lake Toba is beautiful from the water, but seeing it from higher up really gives you a sense of the scale of the lake and the volcanic landscape surrounding it.

If you’re staying around Tuk Tuk, we’d recommend spending at least one day exploring beyond the immediate area rather than staying beside the lake for your entire visit.

Walk from Tuk Tuk to Huta Siallagan

Another day, we explored independently on foot.

From Tuk Tuk, we walked towards Ambarita and Huta Siallagan, a traditional Batak village and one of the better-known cultural sites on Samosir Island.

The village is known for its traditional Batak houses and ancient stone chairs, which were historically used for meetings and judicial proceedings by local rulers.

The walk itself was part of the experience. Rather than simply travelling directly to the site, we could see more of everyday life on Samosir along the way.

We also passed some of the distinctive Batak tombs and graves found around the island. Batak burial traditions are very visible on Samosir, with elaborate tombs appearing beside roads and around villages. Some are surprisingly large and ornate, while others are older and rather eerie.

After exploring Huta Siallagan, we didn’t particularly fancy walking the whole way back, so we hailed one of the local motorbike taxis for the return journey to Tuk Tuk.

Batak Culture on Samosir Island

One of the most interesting aspects of visiting Lake Toba is learning a little about Batak culture.

Traditional Batak architecture is immediately recognisable, particularly the houses with their dramatic curved roofs. Around Samosir, you’ll see both preserved traditional villages and Batak architectural influences incorporated into newer buildings.

Huta Siallagan gives some historical context to what you’re seeing elsewhere around the island, while the tombs, villages and traditional houses make Batak culture a visible part of travelling around Samosir rather than something confined to a museum.

This was quite different from the other places we’d visited in Indonesia and was one of the reasons we were glad we’d included Lake Toba in our North Sumatra route.

How Long Do You Need at Lake Toba?

We stayed for five nights, which gave us plenty of time.

That allowed us to spend a day touring further around Samosir, walk to Huta Siallagan and still have time to simply enjoy the lake and our accommodation.

For most travellers, we’d say 2-3 nights would probably be enough to get a good introduction to Samosir Island without rushing.

If you want to explore much more of the island, spend time hiking or simply want somewhere to stay for a while beside the lake, you could easily stay longer.

For us personally, five nights was enough.

Getting from Lake Toba to Medan

Our departure from Samosir was unfortunately not quite as straightforward as our arrival.

We’d arranged a shared taxi back to Medan and arrived at the departure point around 30 minutes early, only to be told that our taxi had already left.

When we questioned what had happened, the man we were dealing with became extremely rude and started shouting at us. It was completely unlike the interactions we’d had almost everywhere else during our many travels in Indonesia.

Eventually another man came and helped us and we made our way onwards in another shared taxi, but it wasn’t a particularly pleasant way to finish our time at Lake Toba.

If you’re arranging a shared transfer back to Medan, we’d make sure you confirm the departure arrangements and pick-up point beforehand. If you have a flight to catch, we’d also leave yourself plenty of extra time rather than relying on a tight connection.

Our Mixed Feelings About Lake Toba

It’s difficult to explain exactly why you connect with some places and not others.

There wasn’t one particular incident that shaped our opinion of Lake Toba. Even before the unpleasant experience when we left, we simply hadn’t felt as comfortable here as we had elsewhere in Indonesia.

We found interactions generally less warm than we’d experienced in other parts of the country, and the atmosphere never quite clicked with us.

That’s obviously a very subjective experience. Another traveller could arrive the following week, meet completely different people and come away feeling entirely differently.

And none of that changes the fact that Lake Toba itself is spectacular.

The scenery, Batak villages, traditional architecture and enormous volcanic lake make it a fascinating place to see while travelling through North Sumatra.

Is Lake Toba Worth Visiting?

Despite our mixed experience, we’re glad we went.

Lake Toba is unlike anywhere else we visited during our time in Indonesia, and Samosir Island offers an opportunity to experience Batak culture alongside some genuinely beautiful scenery.

But we also wouldn’t pretend we loved somewhere simply because it’s a popular destination.

Of the main stops on our North Sumatra route, Bukit Lawang was somewhere we could happily have stayed longer, while Lake Toba was somewhere we were ready to leave.

That doesn’t mean we’d tell other travellers to skip it. Lake Toba is absolutely worth seeing and you may have a completely different experience from us.

For our trip, though, three or four nights would probably have been enough.

On our Northern Sumatra trip we spent one night in Berastagi, and there was one main reason for stopping here: to climb Mount Sibayak for sunrise.

After several days relaxing in Bukit Lawang, we travelled by taxi through the mountains to Berastagi. The drive itself was beautiful, taking us through the green landscapes of northern Sumatra before reaching the town.

The following morning, we were up long before sunrise and heading towards Mount Sibayak, an active volcano just outside Berastagi.

Getting from Bukit Lawang to Berastagi

We travelled directly from Bukit Lawang to Berastagi by taxi, which was an easy way to make the journey between the two.

It’s also a very scenic drive. As you head towards Berastagi, the landscape becomes increasingly mountainous, with plenty of views along the way.

If you’re travelling through northern Sumatra, combining Bukit Lawang and Berastagi works particularly well. We went from orangutan trekking and rainforest in Bukit Lawang to climbing a volcano in Berastagi, despite the two being relatively close to each other.

Where We Stayed in Berastagi

We stayed at Nachelle Homestay for our one night in Berastagi and found the owners incredibly sweet and welcoming.

They also offer Mount Sibayak trekking, which made everything very easy. We joined a small group of 3 from the homestay and went with the husband of the family as our guide rather than arranging a separate tour in advance.

With such an early start, being able to organise everything directly where we were staying was particularly convenient. We could simply get up, meet the group and head out together.

Where to Eat Near Nachelle Homestay

Another advantage of staying at Nachelle Homestay was having plenty of good local food right outside the door.

There are several bakso warungs nearby, where you can try the Indonesian meatball soup you’ll see all over the country. We also ate at Cafe J.Vayona, just a short walk from the homestay.

We were only in Berastagi for one night, so we didn’t explore the wider restaurant scene, but we certainly didn’t need to travel far to find somewhere good to eat.

Hiking Mount Sibayak for Sunrise

Our hike started well before sunrise while it was still completely dark outside and we reached the top at around 6:15 am, as the morning light was beginning to appear over the surrounding landscape.

We didn’t find the Mount Sibayak hike particularly difficult. There is some climbing involved, but compared with some of the other hikes we’ve done, it was relatively manageable.

Having a guide also meant we didn’t need to think about navigating the trail in the dark. We could simply follow the group and concentrate on the walk.

Sunrise at Mount Sibayak

Once we reached the top, the landscape opened up around us.

Mount Sibayak is an active volcano, and the crater gives the summit a completely different feel from a normal mountain viewpoint. Steam and volcanic gases rise from parts of the crater, surrounded by rugged volcanic rock and mountains in the distance.

It was also noticeably colder at the top than we’d been used to in Sumatra. We wore our thin puffer jackets and were glad we’d brought them, particularly while standing around waiting for the sun to come up.

Watching the landscape slowly appear as the morning light came in was worth the early start.

Even without the sunrise, the volcanic landscape around the crater makes the hike interesting in its own right.

Visit the Sulfur Hot Springs After the Hike

The morning wasn’t quite finished once we’d climbed back down.

On our way back to Berastagi, we stopped at the sulfur hot springs near Mount Sibayak.

After getting up in the middle of the night and hiking up and down a volcano, sitting in the warm water was a very welcome way to finish the morning.

The pools are naturally heated by the geothermal activity around Mount Sibayak, with views of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

If your Mount Sibayak tour includes the hot springs, bring swimwear with you. We’d definitely recommend adding them rather than heading straight back to Berastagi after the hike.

Do You Need a Guide to Hike Mount Sibayak?

We hiked Mount Sibayak with a guide arranged through Nachelle Homestay, and for a sunrise hike we’d happily do the same again.

Starting in complete darkness makes navigating an unfamiliar trail more difficult, and having someone who knew the route meant we didn’t have to worry about finding our way.

It also made the whole experience incredibly easy to arrange. We didn’t book a separate Mount Sibayak tour before arriving in Berastagi. We organised the hike through our accommodation and joined a group from there.

If you’re staying elsewhere in Berastagi, it’s worth asking your accommodation whether they can arrange a Mount Sibayak sunrise hike.

What to Bring for a Mount Sibayak Sunrise Hike

You don’t need huge amounts of equipment for the hike, but there are a few things we’d recommend bringing:

• Comfortable shoes with decent grip
• A light jacket or thin puffer jacket
• Water
• A headtorch or torch
• Swimwear if you’re visiting the sulfur hot springs afterwards
• A small towel
• Camera or phone

Don’t assume that because you’re in Sumatra it will be hot. Berastagi sits at a higher elevation, and before sunrise on Mount Sibayak it can feel surprisingly cool.

How Long Do You Need in Berastagi?

We only stayed for one night, which was enough for what we’d come to Berastagi to do.

We arrived from Bukit Lawang, stayed at Nachelle Homestay, explored a little around the area and got up early the following morning to hike Mount Sibayak. After the hike and a stop at the sulfur hot springs, we continued our journey.

There are other things to see around Berastagi if you want to stay longer, but we didn’t visit them, so we can’t tell you whether they’re worth adding.

If Mount Sibayak is your main reason for visiting, an overnight stop can work well.

Is the Mount Sibayak Sunrise Hike Worth It?

For us, yes.

We didn’t spend enough time in Berastagi to write a complete guide to the town, but stopping here for one night worked perfectly as part of our journey through northern Sumatra.

The hike wasn’t particularly difficult, the volcanic landscape around the crater was beautiful, and soaking in the sulfur hot springs afterwards was a great way to finish the morning.

After the rainforest and orangutans of Bukit Lawang, spending a night in the mountains and starting the next morning on top of an active volcano gave us a completely different side of northern Sumatra.

If you’re travelling through the region, Mount Sibayak is well worth adding to your route, even if, like us, you only have one night in Berastagi.

Most people come to Bukit Lawang for one reason: to trek into the Sumatran rainforest in search of orangutans.

That was the main reason we came too, but after spending a week here we discovered that Bukit Lawang is also a lovely place to simply stay for a while and relax in nature.

Set alongside the Bohorok River on the edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, the village is surrounded by dense green rainforest. Away from the orangutan trekking, there isn’t a huge list of things you need to see or do, and that’s part of the appeal. We spent our days walking along the river, exploring the village, eating at small restaurants and enjoying being surrounded by nature.

If your North Sumatra itinerary allows it, we’d recommend staying a little longer rather than arriving, doing the trek and immediately leaving again.

How to Get to Bukit Lawang from Medan airport

We flew into Medan, the main gateway to Bukit Lawang and northern Sumatra, and arranged a private pick-up from the airport with our hotel.

The drive from Kualanamu International Airport (Medan) to Bukit Lawang usually takes around 3.5–4.5 hours, depending on traffic.

As you get closer to Bukit Lawang, the busy city streets gradually give way to smaller towns, plantations and increasingly green countryside.

Once you arrive, it’s worth knowing that parts of Bukit Lawang are pedestrian-only. Depending on where you’re staying, you may need to walk the final section to your accommodation with your luggage. As we booked our pick up with the hotel, the hotel staff were there meeting us and helping us with our luggage to the hotel.

Where to Stay in Bukit Lawang

We stayed in three different places during our eight nights in Bukit Lawang, which gave us a good feel for the different accommodation available around the village.

Sam’s Bungalows

Our first stay was at Sam’s Bungalows, towards the end of the village beside the river.

The location is lovely, with the river and rainforest right outside, and we found the staff very friendly. There’s also a restaurant serving good food, so you don’t necessarily need to walk back into the main part of the village whenever you want to eat.

Being towards the end of the village also means you’re away from some of the busier areas.

Garden Inn

We also stayed at Garden Inn, which has beautiful views across the surrounding greenery.

The rooms were quite simple and we found it a little hot and noisy at times as you are more in the middle of the village, but the setting is lovely. If you’re mainly looking for somewhere inexpensive with great views and don’t mind fairly basic accommodation, it can be a good option.

On The Rocks

Our favourite place we stayed in Bukit Lawang was On The Rocks.

It’s set higher up amongst the trees, right on the edge of the rainforest, so reaching it involves a bit of a walk uphill, but the location is worth the effort.

There are several different types of accommodation at different price points. We stayed in one of the cheapest options, a simple little thatched cottage, and absolutely loved it. The more expensive rooms are beautiful, but you don’t need to spend a lot to enjoy the setting, so there are options for different budgets.

You’re surrounded by rainforest here, and it feels much more secluded than staying down beside the main path through the village. We even had a female orangutan with her baby nesting in the trees outside our room. The food is also good here.

If we returned to Bukit Lawang, this is where we’d stay again.

Orangutan Trekking in Bukit Lawang

Seeing Sumatran orangutans in the wild is the main reason most travellers visit Bukit Lawang.

The village sits beside Gunung Leuser National Park, part of the wider Leuser Ecosystem and one of the remaining places where Sumatran orangutans live in the wild.

You can choose anything from a one-day trek to multi-day jungle expeditions, with longer treks taking you deeper into the rainforest and usually involving camping overnight.

We chose a one-day trek, which was plenty challenging enough for us.

How Difficult Is the Orangutan Trek?

Don’t underestimate the terrain.

The trekking involves a lot of steep ups and downs through humid rainforest. There were sections where we were pulling ourselves uphill using vines and tree roots, followed by steep descents where you really need to watch where you’re putting your feet.

It was tough at times, but also incredibly rewarding. The rainforest itself is beautiful, quite apart from the wildlife you’re there to see.

You don’t need to race through it either. A good guide will adapt the trek to your ability and let you take breaks when needed.

Choosing an Ethical Orangutan Trekking Guide

Choosing the right guide was particularly important to us.

There are rules around encounters with orangutans, including maintaining an appropriate distance and never feeding or touching them. Before booking, we wanted to make sure we went with guides who respected those rules rather than prioritising close-up photographs for tourists.

Most accommodation in Bukit Lawang can arrange orangutan trekking, but you don’t have to book through the place you’re staying. Green Hill is another guesthouse in the village, and although we weren’t staying there, we simply walked over after we arrived in Bukit Lawang and asked about arranging a trek.

We ended up trekking with Randa Armando from Green Hill, who was excellent. He took the trek at our pace, helped us through the more difficult sections and was respectful of the wildlife we encountered.

After later staying at On The Rocks and getting to know the place a little, we would also have been very happy trekking with their guides. If we returned, we’d probably arrange our trek directly through them.

Whichever company or guesthouse you choose, we’d recommend asking about their approach to wildlife before booking. Guides should maintain the required distance from orangutans and shouldn’t feed them, touch them or encourage tourists to get closer for photographs.

Rafting Back to Bukit Lawang

At the end of many jungle treks, you’ll have the option of returning to Bukit Lawang by river rather than walking all the way back.

The “rafting” is done using large inner tubes tied together to create a simple raft.

I was a little hesitant about this part before we did it, but it turned out to be really enjoyable. After hours of climbing up and down through the hot rainforest, getting onto the river was a pretty good way to finish the trek.

You float downstream through the jungle before eventually arriving back in Bukit Lawang.

If you’re unsure about adding the rafting to your trek, we’d do it again.

What Else Is There to Do in Bukit Lawang?

Not much. And we mean that in a good way.

Bukit Lawang isn’t somewhere you need an itinerary packed with attractions. We spent plenty of time simply walking along the river and through the village. You can follow the riverside paths, cross the suspension bridges and walk into the main town away from the more tourist-oriented accommodation beside the national park.

There’s also a small market area by the river, which is worth wandering through while you’re exploring. You can also walk further into the main town, away from the guesthouses and restaurants clustered closer to the national park.

For us, the appeal of staying longer was having nowhere in particular we needed to be. It’s a good place to slow down, read, sit beside the river and enjoy being surrounded by nature.

Where to Eat in Bukit Lawang

There are plenty of small restaurants and guesthouse restaurants along the river in Bukit Lawang, so finding somewhere to eat is easy.

We found that many of the menus were quite similar, usually with a mixture of Indonesian dishes and familiar Western options aimed at travellers.

We mostly ate at our accommodation, particularly Sam’s Bungalows and On The Rocks, simply because it was convenient and the food was good. With many of the guesthouses and restaurants spread along the river, there wasn’t much reason to go searching for a particular restaurant every evening.

We wouldn’t come to Bukit Lawang specifically for the food, but there are more than enough options for a stay of several days.

How Long Should You Stay in Bukit Lawang?

Many travellers spend just two or three nights in Bukit Lawang, giving them enough time to arrive, complete an orangutan trek and continue their journey through Sumatra.

We stayed for eight nights and were very happy that we did.

You certainly don’t need that long to see the main attraction, but Bukit Lawang is worth considering as somewhere to slow down for a few days, particularly if you’re travelling for a longer period.

After the trek, having a few days to relax beside the river and enjoy the rainforest without another activity planned was exactly what we wanted.

If you’re on a shorter Indonesia trip, we’d suggest 2-3 nights. If you have more time and enjoy nature, adding a few extra nights gives you the chance to experience Bukit Lawang beyond the orangutan trek.

Staying Near Medan Airport

If your flight times mean you need a night in Medan before or after visiting Bukit Lawang, we stayed at Hotel Deli River and Restaurant Omlandia for a couple of nights.

It was a really relaxing place to stay, particularly after travelling. There’s a pool, plenty of space to unwind and we even had a floating breakfast served in the pool.

Rather than trying to squeeze the journey between Bukit Lawang and the airport around a flight, spending a night or two here made the journey much more relaxed.

Is Bukit Lawang Worth Visiting?

If seeing Sumatran orangutans in the wild is something you want to experience, Bukit Lawang is an obvious addition to a Indonesia itinerary.

The orangutan trek was challenging, beautiful and incredibly rewarding, but we also really enjoyed our longer stay in Bukit Lawang, having time to simply walk beside the river, waking up surrounded by rainforest and watching an orangutan and her baby in the trees outside our room.

You can come for the orangutans.

But you might want to stay a little longer for Bukit Lawang itself.

Solo, also known as Surakarta, is a city in Central Java that often gets overlooked by travellers heading to nearby Yogyakarta. We didn’t spend a huge amount of time here, but we had enough time to explore some of the city, visit one of its palaces and, of course, eat plenty of Javanese food.

Solo (or Surakarta) has a very different feel from Indonesia’s bigger tourist destinations. There are fewer international visitors, plenty of street food and a strong connection to traditional Javanese culture. If you’re travelling through Central Java, it’s an easy place to add to your route for a couple of days.

Where to Stay in Solo

The Royal Surakarta Heritage

We stayed at The Royal Surakarta Heritage, right in the centre of Solo.

The location worked well for our short stay, with plenty of the city within easy reach. The hotel itself has a grand, traditional style with lots of Javanese details throughout the interiors.

For a first visit to Solo, staying centrally made exploring much easier, particularly when we only had a limited amount of time in the city.

Things to Do in Solo (Surakarta)

Visit Mangkunegaran Palace

If you only have time for a few sights in Solo, Mangkunegaran Palace (Pura Mangkunegaran) is well worth including.

Built in the 18th century, the palace is particularly interesting because Solo’s royal traditions aren’t simply part of its past. The Mangkunegaran royal family still exists today, and the palace remains their official residence, with the current ruler continuing the Mangkunegaran dynasty.

Parts of the palace are open to visitors, giving you a glimpse into both Solo’s royal history and a tradition that is still very much alive today. The complex combines traditional Javanese architecture with European influences, with large pavilions, courtyards and beautifully decorated interiors.

Allow some time to walk around rather than treating it as a quick photo stop. The details in the buildings, collections and interiors are a big part of the experience.

Wander Through Central Solo (Surakarta)

Solo is also an interesting city to explore on foot, particularly around the centre where you’ll come across a mix of traditional Javanese buildings and architecture dating from the Dutch colonial period. Old façades, grand public buildings and newer developments sit alongside busy streets, markets and small local businesses.

We enjoyed simply walking around and taking in the architecture between the city’s main sights. It’s another reminder of the different layers of history that have shaped Solo.

Where to Eat in Solo (Surakarta)

Food was a big part of our time in Solo, from a more formal meal inside the Mangkunegaran complex to eating our way through the city’s street food.

Pracimasana Mangkunegaran

While visiting Mangkunegaran Palace, we also ate at Pracimasana Mangkunegaran, located within the palace complex.

The restaurant serves traditional Javanese dishes in a beautiful setting within the palace complex. It makes a great addition to a visit to Mangkunegaran Palace, particularly if you want to try regional food surrounded by Solo’s royal heritage.

Try Solo’s Street Food

At the other end of the spectrum, don’t leave Solo without trying some of its street food.

Once evening arrives, food stalls and small roadside eateries appear across the city. This was a completely different experience from eating at Pracimasana and gave us another side of Solo’s food culture. There were plenty on the streets near The Royal Surakarta Heritage hotel.

Rather than searching for particular restaurants, we enjoyed simply walking around, seeing what was being cooked and trying different things along the way.

Have a Drink at the Alila Solo Rooftop

For a completely different view of the city, head up to the rooftop at Alila Solo (which would also be a good place to stay, but a little more outside the center).

The hotel is one of the tallest buildings in the city, and its rooftop gives you a fantastic view across Solo and the surrounding landscape.

We came here for drinks rather than staying at the hotel, and it’s a good place to finish the day, particularly around sunset when you can watch the city change from day to night below you.

How Long Do You Need in Solo?

For a first visit, we’d suggest one or two full days in Solo.

That gives you enough time to visit Mangkunegaran Palace, explore the centre, try some of the city’s food and spend an evening wandering around without rushing.

If you’re particularly interested in Javanese history and culture, you could easily stay longer and explore more of the palaces, museums and traditional neighbourhoods around the city.

Is Solo Worth Visiting?

Solo isn’t packed with major attractions, and that’s partly why we enjoyed including it in our trip.

Our time here was more about getting a feel for the city: walking around, eating street food, visiting Mangkunegaran Palace and seeing Solo from above with a drink at Alila.

If you’re travelling through Central Java and have a couple of days to spare, Solo is an easy addition to an Indonesia itinerary, particularly if you want to experience somewhere that sees fewer international tourists than nearby Yogyakarta.