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Indonesia

Where to Eat in Jakarta: Best Restaurants & Local Food Spots

by Sam July 10, 2018
written by Sam

Latest update: June 2026

Jakarta doesn’t always get much love from food-focused travellers.

Many visitors use Indonesia’s capital as a transit point before heading to Bali, Yogyakarta or the islands further east. That’s a mistake. Jakarta has some of the best food in Indonesia, from tiny street-side warungs to historic restaurants and modern rooftop bars.

Livia lived in Jakarta for six months in 2014 while working in the city and we have returned several times since. During that time, we spent a lot of our free time doing what we do best: eating.

These are some of our favourite restaurants, coffee shops and local food experiences in Jakarta.

Looking for more Jakarta travel tips? Check out our guides to Things to Do in Jakarta and Why You Should Visit Jakarta.

Indonesian Classics

Restoran Garuda Sabang

If you’ve never tried Padang food before, a cuisine originating from West Sumatra, Restoran Garuda is one of the best introductions.

As soon as you sit down, dozens of small dishes are placed on your table. You only pay for what you eat, allowing you to sample a wide variety of flavours. Expect rich rendang, spicy curries, fried chicken and vegetable dishes packed with flavour.

Located close to Jalan Sabang, it’s also an easy stop while exploring one of Jakarta’s most famous food streets.

Padang food at Restoran Garuda Sabang
Padang food at Restoran Garuda Sabang, Jakarta

Sate Kambing Jaya Agung

For a more local experience, head to Sate Kambing Jaya Agung.

Their speciality is lamb satay served with sweet soy sauce, chilli and onions. It’s simple, affordable and usually filled with local diners rather than tourists.

Sate Khas Senayan

One of Indonesia’s most recognisable restaurant chains, Sate Khas Senayan is a reliable option for first-time visitors.

The menu covers dishes from across the archipelago and is a good place to sample several Indonesian favourites in one meal. While it may not be the most adventurous choice in Jakarta, the food is consistently good and easy to recommend.

Warung MJS

Warung MJS is a popular Indonesian restaurant in Kuningan known for its wide selection of traditional dishes. It’s a great place to sample a variety of local flavours in a casual setting.

Guests choose their food before sitting down, making it easy to mix and match different dishes. If you’re visiting with others, we recommend ordering several plates to share.

The restaurant can get busy during peak meal times, particularly with local diners, so you may need to wait for a table.

The garden at Warung MJS, Jakarta
Sate Kambing Jaya Agung

Street Food & Local Favourites

While Jakarta has plenty of excellent restaurants, some of our favourite meals are always from simple street food stalls and local eateries.

Many of Indonesia’s most beloved dishes are sold from small carts, roadside warungs and family-run restaurants. Don’t be put off by the plastic stools and basic surroundings. Some of the best food in Jakarta comes from places that barely look like restaurants at all.

A few of our personal favourites include bakso, mie ayam and tongseng. You’ll find them all over the city, often at places packed with local customers.

Bakso Populer

This small local spot in Thamrin serves excellent bakso and is a great introduction to one of Indonesia’s favourite dishes.

Bakso Rusuk Samanhudi Sabang

Located near Jalan Sabang, this is another good spot to try bakso, one of Indonesia’s most popular comfort foods. It’s a simple local place serving a dish you’ll find all over Jakarta.

Bakmi Cong Sim

Located in Mangga Besar, Bakmi Cong Sim serves simple but delicious bakmi noodles. It’s not a fancy restaurant, but the flavours speak for themselves. We still find ourselves thinking about these noodles years later.

Bakso Rusuk Samanhudi Sabang
Bakmi Cong Sim
Street food BBQ chicken

Historic & Special Occasion Restaurants

Cafe Batavia

Located on Fatahillah Square in Jakarta’s Old Town, Cafe Batavia is one of the city’s most iconic restaurants. Yes, it’s touristy. But it’s also beautiful.

Housed inside a restored colonial-era building, the restaurant is filled with old photographs, antiques and historic charm. Grab a table upstairs for views across the square and enjoy one of the most atmospheric dining experiences in the city. We tend to come here for a drink rather than a meal, but the atmosphere alone makes it worth visiting.

Plataran Dharmawangsa

If you’re looking for a special meal, Plataran Dharmawangsa is hard to beat.

Traditional Indonesian architecture, lush gardens and excellent food combine to create an oasis in the middle of Jakarta. The setting alone is worth a visit, but the food more than lives up to the surroundings.

It’s one of our favourite places for introducing visitors to Indonesian cuisine.

Cafe Batavia
Cafe Batavia
Plataran Dharmawangsa

Coffee Shops

Saudagar Kopi Sabang

Indonesia produces some of the world’s best coffee and Saudagar Kopi is one of our favourite places to enjoy it.

Located near Jalan Sabang, this cosy café is a great place to escape Jakarta’s traffic and heat for a while. The coffee is excellent and it’s an easy addition to an afternoon spent exploring central Jakarta.

Tanamera Coffee

Tanamera helped introduce many visitors to Indonesian speciality coffee and remains one of the city’s most popular coffee chains.

Their beans come from different regions across Indonesia, making it a great place to explore the country’s incredible coffee culture.

Anomali Coffee

Another long-time favourite, Anomali focuses on Indonesian-grown beans and offers coffees from regions including Sumatra, Java, Bali and Sulawesi.

If you’re curious about the differences between Indonesian coffee-producing regions, this is a great place to start.

Rooftops & Views

Kosenda Hotel Rooftop

The rooftop at Kosenda Hotel offers fantastic city views in a more relaxed setting. It’s a great place for sunset drinks while watching the skyline light up for the evening.

ARTOTEL roof top

ARTOTEL’s rooftop bar is another good option for views over central Jakarta. The atmosphere is laid-back and attracts a mix of locals, expats and visitors looking for a drink above the busy streets below.

Skye

Located high above the city centre, SKYE is one of Jakarta’s most famous rooftop venues. The views across the skyline are impressive, particularly after dark when the city’s skyscrapers begin to light up. It’s more upscale than Kosenda or ARTOTEL, making it a popular choice for sunset drinks or a special night out.

Kosenda
ARTOTEL

Food Neighbourhoods Worth Exploring

Jalan Sabang (Jl. H. Agus Salim)

One of Jakarta’s most famous food streets, Jalan Sabang (Jl. H. Agus Salim) comes alive after dark with street food stalls, local restaurants and coffee shops. It’s a great place to try a wide range of Indonesian dishes in a single evening and remains one of our favourite places to wander whenever we’re back in the city. It’s also right next door to Artotel Tharmin where we’ve stayed many times while in Jakarta.

Pantjoran PIK

Pantjoran PIK in Pantai Indah Kapuk has become one of Jakarta’s most popular food destinations. Inspired by old Chinese-Indonesian architecture, the area is packed with restaurants, cafés and street food stalls. It’s particularly good for Chinese and Chinese-Indonesian food and makes for a fun evening of eating and exploring.

Baywalk Area

The waterfront around Baywalk Mall is one of Jakarta’s best areas for seafood. Along the coast you’ll find a number of restaurants serving fresh fish, prawns, crab and other seafood dishes, often with views across Jakarta Bay.

If you’re a seafood lover, this is a great alternative to the Indonesian and Chinese restaurants found elsewhere in the city.

PIK area
Jalan Sabang (Jl. H. Agus Salim)

Final Thoughts

Jakarta is one of Southeast Asia’s most underrated food cities.

The city brings together cuisines from across Indonesia, allowing you to try dishes from Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi and beyond without ever leaving the capital. Whether you’re eating Padang food on Jalan Sabang, tucking into a bowl of bakso from a local stall or watching the skyline from a rooftop bar, Jakarta rewards travellers who arrive hungry.

If you’re planning a trip, don’t miss our guides to Things to Do in Jakarta and Why you should visit Jakarta for more ideas on exploring Indonesia’s fascinating capital.

July 10, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

Best Cafés in Jakarta: Our Favourite Coffee Shops in the City

by Sam July 9, 2018
written by Sam

Who makes the best coffee in Jakarta? When you’re travelling coffee becomes a basic human necessity. You need a kick to get you up and off on the good foot.

On our recent visits to Jakarta my mission as Captain Coffee was to locate some of the best roasteries, brewers and purveyors of the dark brown elixir. Not as easy as you think considering that the island is called Java, Coffee is called Kopi and most people want to serve you a milky iced beverage.

#1 Tanamera Coffee

Modern, chilled coffee bar in the center of Jakarta, Thamrin. Guys in leather aprons have been proudly brewing coffee since 2013. They work with local Indonesian farmers to produce and roast a piquant coffee that is exquisite and distinctive. They serve all your favorite coffee combinations as well as cold brews, pastries and sandwiches.

The interior of red and black matching their branding is comfy and welcoming. Of course there is free wi-fi
Tanamera Coffee now have eight outlets throughout Indonesia. Quite possibly the best coffee in Jakarta.

Tanamera Coffee Jakarta, Indonesia
At Tanamera Coffee relax in the knowledge your coffee will be good.

#2 Kopi Es Tak Kie

Before you get yourself too involved with Jakarta’s famous Chinatown or nearby “Ghost City”, get yourself down to Kopi Es Tak Kie.

Being Jakarta’s oldest coffee house they’ve perfected their brewing skills over the last 90 years (yes since 1929) and offer a no frills brew at a really good price. There are tables and chairs and there is coffee… but that’s about it. As their name suggests they make Ice Coffee, but you can ask for hot brews, with or without milk, just don’t start asking for a de-caff soy latte OK?!

#3 Coffeebeerian

Coffee AND Craft Beer?.. yes it’s possible at Coffeebeerian. It’s a simple place with a few back rooms and a few comfy sofas. All kinds of hot/cold filter brews, specialty beans and a guy who just loves to make coffee. Not fancy, nor Instagrammable but great. It’s also a nice area (Senopati) to walk around with large houses and gardens.

#4 Toko Kopi TUKU – Pasar Santa

Ok, you don’t even get a table at this place, find a place to sit down on a nearby wall. At Toko Kopi TUKU you order your coffee through a sliding glass window, you can jump the queue of Go-Jek drivers. Mostly serving Ice Coffee with a plastic sealed lid and a straw it’s hard to beat on a hot day in Jakarta. Go check out the local market, upstairs are loads of cool independent shops selling toys, records, graffiti supplies and more.

Toko Kopi Kuku, Jakarta
Toko Kopi Kuku is not romantic by far.. but it’s damn fine coffee!

#5 Cafe Batavia

Yes it’s expensive, yes you have to get past the crowds of students wanting interviews and selfies.. but as soon as you cross the threshold of Cafe Batavia you are transported back to the Colonial Jakarta of days gone by. Sip on your coffee and look out over the square with people riding colorful rent-a-bikes and enjoy the history.

What do you think of my best coffee in Jakarta hot spots? Let me know in the comment section below.

Many people dismiss Jakarta as a tourist destination which is such a shame as it has so much to offer the traveler, even if you’re just passing through, read our post “Why you should visit Jakarta” and our other Jakarta posts for more on this great city.

Grand interior of cafe Batavia
July 9, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

Jakarta Travel Guide: What to Do, Where to Stay & Why Visit

by Livia June 20, 2018
written by Livia

Latest update: June 2026

Jakarta rarely appears on lists of must-visit destinations in Indonesia. Most travellers arrive, spend a night near the airport and continue on to Bali, Yogyakarta or one of Indonesia’s many islands.

We think that’s a mistake.

We first visited Jakarta in 2014 when Livia spent six months living and working in the city. Since then we’ve returned several times and continue to discover new sides of Indonesia’s capital. While Jakarta can feel chaotic, crowded and overwhelming at first, it is also one of the most fascinating cities in Southeast Asia.

Behind the traffic and skyscrapers you’ll find incredible food, excellent coffee, fascinating history and some of the friendliest people in Indonesia.

Is Jakarta Worth Visiting?

Absolutely.

Jakarta is not a city that immediately reveals its charm. Unlike Bangkok, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, there are relatively few obvious tourist attractions. What makes Jakarta interesting is the atmosphere, the food, the neighbourhoods and the endless contrasts between old and new.

One moment you’re exploring a centuries-old Chinese temple, the next you’re standing on a rooftop overlooking one of the largest skylines in Asia.

For a deeper look at why we think Jakarta deserves more attention, read our guide to Why You Should Visit Jakarta.

Where to stay in Jakarta

Jakarta is enormous, so choosing the right area can make a big difference.

Thamrin & Central Jakarta

For first-time visitors, this is our favourite area and where we usually stay when visiting Jakarta.

Staying around Thamrin puts you close to shopping malls, restaurants, cafés and many of the city’s main attractions. One of our favorite hotels in the area is Artotel Thamrin and for a cheaper hotel Cool Living is a solid option, simple but clean. Both being excellent bases for exploring the city.

If you’re looking for an apartment in Thamrin I would suggest Thamrin Residences and Thamrin Executive residence, where we have stayed multiple times.

Menteng & Cikini

Menteng is one of Jakarta’s most pleasant neighbourhoods, filled with trees, cafés and historic buildings.

We stayed in an apartment in Cikini and found it to be a great area for longer stays. It feels slightly calmer than central Jakarta while still offering easy access to the rest of the city.

Luxury Hotels

Jakarta has some of the best-value luxury hotels in Asia. Compared to Europe, five-star hotels are often surprisingly affordable. We loved our stay at the Four Seasons Jakarta, but there are many excellent luxury options throughout the city.

Apartment in Cikini
Four seasons
Thamrin residences

Getting Around Jakarta

Jakarta is famous for its traffic, and the reputation is well deserved. Fortunately, ride-hailing apps such as Grab, Uber and Gojek make getting around surprisingly easy. We never rented vehicles ourselves and instead relied on taxis and ride-hailing apps throughout our visits.

We tend to use Grab or just hailing a Blue Bird taxi on the street. There is also a metro in Jakarta now, which has made it much easier to go north – south.

Best Things to Do in Jakarta

Explore Chinatown (Glodok)

Located north of the city centre, Glodok is Jakarta’s historic Chinatown and one of our favourite parts of the city.

The area is packed with markets, temples, food stalls and small shops. Wandering through the narrow streets is one of the best ways to experience a different side of Jakarta.

Two of the most interesting attractions are the Chinese temples hidden among the busy streets. Visitors are welcome to enter and learn more about local traditions and culture.

Don’t miss Kopi Es Tak Kie, one of Jakarta’s oldest coffee shops.

Visit Kota Tua (Old Town)

Kota Tua is Jakarta’s historic colonial centre and home to some of the city’s most recognisable buildings.

The area around Fatahillah Square contains museums, cafés and restored Dutch colonial architecture. One of the best places to take a break is Café Batavia, which overlooks the square and feels like stepping back in time.

While the main square is well maintained, simply wandering through the surrounding streets reveals a fascinating mix of restored buildings, abandoned colonial structures and modern Jakarta life.

Visit the National Museum

The National Museum is one of the best places to learn about Indonesia’s history and cultural diversity.

Its collection covers everything from ancient kingdoms and archaeological discoveries to traditional art and regional cultures. Visiting before travelling elsewhere in Indonesia provides useful context for understanding the country.

Explore Taman Mini Indonesia Indah

If you only have time for one cultural attraction in Jakarta, make it Taman Mini.

This enormous park showcases traditional houses, architecture and cultural traditions from all over Indonesia. Each province has its own area, making it feel like a miniature version of the entire country.

The park is huge, so allow a full day if you want to explore it properly.

Discover Jakarta’s Street Food

One of our favourite things to do in Jakarta is simply eat.

Street food stalls can be found on almost every corner, serving everything from satay and noodles to soups and grilled meats.

Some of our favourite local spots include Bakso Populer, Bakso Rusuk Samanhudi Sabang, Mie Ayam Gajah Mungkur and Sate Kambing Jaya Agung.

Don’t be afraid to follow the crowds. If a stall is packed with locals, there’s usually a good reason.

Discover Jakarta’s Modern Skyline

Many first-time visitors are surprised by how modern parts of Jakarta feel. The area around SCBD (Sudirman Central Business District) is filled with skyscrapers, luxury hotels, rooftop bars and some of Indonesia’s most important business headquarters.

One of our favourite places to explore is ASHTA District 8. The development combines restaurants, cafés, shops and public spaces, all surrounded by some of Jakarta’s most impressive architecture. Walking through the area feels completely different from wandering through Glodok or Kota Tua and offers a glimpse into Jakarta’s rapidly changing future.

If you’ve seen photos of Jakarta that look more like New York or Singapore than Indonesia, there’s a good chance they were taken around SCBD.

ASHTA District 8

Enjoy Jakarta’s rooftop bars

Rooftop bars, restaurants and hotels offer spectacular views across the city. Watching the lights come on as the sun sets over the skyscrapers is one of our favourite ways to spend an evening in Jakarta.

The rooftop at Kosenda Hotel or Artotel is a great budget-friendly option, while luxury hotels such as the Four Seasons offer a more upscale experience. Skye is also a good option for both food and the bar.

Jakarta skyline
Jakarta skyline

Explore Jakarta’s Malls

Love them or hate them, Jakarta’s malls are part of the city experience.

Jakarta has long been claimed to have one of the highest numbers of shopping malls per capita in the world. They aren’t simply places to shop. They function as community spaces where people meet friends, eat, watch films, work, exercise and escape the heat and traffic outside.

At the luxury end you’ll find enormous complexes such as Grand Indonesia and Plaza Indonesia, while places like ITC Mangga Dua feel more like giant indoor markets. Many malls contain hundreds of shops, food courts, cinemas and entertainment venues, making them destinations in their own right.

Another favourite of ours is Sarinah, Jakarta’s oldest department store. Recently renovated, it combines shopping, restaurants, cafés and Indonesian brands under one roof. It’s a great place to browse local products and get a feel for modern Jakarta.

We often found ourselves retreating to a mall after a long day exploring the city. Air conditioning, good coffee and excellent food are hard to argue with when Jakarta temperatures start climbing.

Visit Pantjoran PIK and Pantai Maju

One of the newer areas we enjoyed exploring was Pantjoran PIK in Pantai Indah Kapuk.

This modern development combines Chinese-Indonesian influences, restaurants, cafés and attractive architecture. Nearby Pantai Maju showcases yet another side of Jakarta’s constant transformation.

Experience Jakarta’s Coffee Culture

Indonesia produces some of the best coffee in the world and Jakarta has fully embraced café culture.

Some of our favourite coffee spots include Kopi Es Tak Kie in Glodok and Saudagar Kopi Sabang in central Jakarta.

Whether you prefer traditional Indonesian coffee or modern specialty cafés, Jakarta has plenty to offer.

Where to Eat in Jakarta

One of the biggest reasons we keep returning to Jakarta is the food.

From tiny street food stalls and local warungs to upscale restaurants, the city offers an incredible variety of dining options. Some of our favourite places include Restoran Garuda, Tesate Sam Ratulangi and the many food stalls scattered throughout the city.

For more recommendations, read our full guide to Where to Eat in Jakarta.

Why We Keep Returning to Jakarta

Jakarta is not the easiest city to love.

The traffic can be frustrating, the heat can be intense and it lacks the obvious tourist attractions found elsewhere in Indonesia.

Yet somehow we keep coming back.

Perhaps it’s the food, the coffee, the fascinating mix of cultures or simply the energy of the city itself. Whatever the reason, Jakarta has become one of our favourite places in Indonesia and a city we believe deserves far more attention from travellers.

June 20, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

Hidden Jakarta Tour: Our Experience & Is It Ethical?

by Sam June 19, 2018
written by Sam

Before booking the Hidden Jakarta Tour, we spent quite a bit of time discussing whether we actually felt comfortable doing it.

Tours that take visitors into low-income communities are controversial, and understandably so. At their worst, they can turn people’s everyday lives and difficult circumstances into a tourist attraction. We didn’t want to spend an afternoon simply walking around looking at how other people lived.

But the more we read about Hidden Jakarta, the more interested we became in how this particular tour worked. It was presented as a community-based initiative, with money from the tours supporting projects within the communities and local people involved in the organisation.

Eventually, we decided to go.

There were moments when we felt uncomfortable and initially weren’t quite sure how to behave. But the experience turned out to be very different from what we’d feared, and gave us an insight into a side of Jakarta we’d never experienced before.

What Is the Hidden Jakarta Tour?

Hidden Jakarta is a community-based initiative that takes visitors into some of Jakarta’s kampungs to meet residents and learn more about everyday life in these communities.

Today, Hidden Jakarta describes its approach around three principles: Emergency, Education and Empowerment, or the 3Es. Tour fees and donations help fund emergency assistance, school supplies, meals and education, as well as support for small businesses and other community initiatives.

The organisation also emphasises local guides, small groups and community consent as part of its approach to responsible tourism.

We took the Hidden Jakarta Tour in 2018, so some of the practical details may have changed since our visit. Everything below is based on our own experience at the time.

Starting at Fatahillah Square

Our day started somewhere much more familiar to visitors: Fatahillah Square in Jakarta’s Old Town.

The square is one of Jakarta’s main sightseeing spots and was busy with visitors, street vendors and groups of students.

As foreigners, we were regularly approached by students wanting to practise their English. The routine was usually similar: your name, where you’re from and why you’ve come to Indonesia, often recorded on camera, followed by a selfie.

We stopped for coffee at the famous Café Batavia overlooking the square. The food was fine, but you’re definitely paying partly for the historic setting and location. The coffee, however, was excellent, with different coffees from across Indonesia to choose from.

From there, we met our guide at a local café just around the corner.

Over lunch and iced tea, we talked about what we were going to see and, importantly, about taking photos. This was something we’d been concerned about beforehand. Walking into someone’s neighbourhood and immediately pulling out a camera didn’t feel right. Our guide explained that we should judge each situation individually and that he could check with people when necessary. As it turned out, some of the people we met actively asked us to take their photos.

Drinking Coffee at Cafe Batavia Jakarta
Drinking Coffee at Cafe Batavia Jakarta

Leaving Tourist Jakarta Behind

After lunch, the three of us climbed into a microlet, one of Jakarta’s small local buses, and headed off.

We got out near Jembatan Kota Intan, Jakarta’s historic Dutch drawbridge. After dodging the traffic, we ducked into a narrow alley and continued towards the railway tracks.

This was where the experience became very different from the Jakarta we’d seen until then.

Visiting the Communities

One of our first meetings was with a woman living in a small, dark space beneath the railway. She explained to our guide that she lived there with her husband, who worked nearby as a parking attendant and earned around $2 a day at the time. Their belongings were carefully arranged around the small room. They had electricity, a fridge and a fan moving the hot Jakarta air around the space.

This first meeting felt awkward. Not because of anything she did, but because we weren’t entirely sure how we were supposed to act. We were standing inside someone’s home, seeing living conditions completely different from our own and very aware that we were there as visitors.

But as the day continued, we relaxed.

Back in the narrow corridor, we climbed a ladder and walked along a thin plywood floor between different homes before eventually emerging back into the daylight.

We passed people chatting, cooking and cleaning, while children ran around playing. We said hello as we passed and gradually the whole experience began to feel less awkward and more about simply meeting people.

Dark alleyway leading down underneath the railway tracks
Dark alleyway leading down underneath the railway tracks

Heading Towards the Docks

From there, we continued towards the docks.

This time we climbed into a bicycle tuk-tuk and travelled through a low-income, working-class part of northern Jakarta. Eventually, we reached a small local ferry crossing a waterway. It was essentially a covered wooden platform pulled from one side to the other using a rope. On the other side, we climbed into an even smaller wooden boat.

A local man took us out through the harbour towards an old green lighthouse, with his young grandson sitting proudly at the front.

We passed dozens of boats and ships in different states of repair. After around half an hour, we reached more open water, with the lighthouse ahead and enormous container ships scattered across the horizon.

Sitting in our little wooden boat surrounded by them certainly put their size into perspective.

Walking through the back streets near the docks in Jakarta
Walking through the back streets near the docks in Jakarta
Livia in a bicycle tuk-tuk
Livia in a bicycle tuk-tuk

Life Around the Docks

Back on land, our guide took us through an area beside the docks where families were living in makeshift homes constructed from whatever materials were available.

The ground was covered with rubble, bricks, concrete and pieces of cable. Homes had been built using timber, metal sheets, tarpaulins and other materials, with some floors and beds raised above the ground.

One of the women we met lived there with her six children. At the time, she told us that her husband worked on a cargo boat travelling between Indonesia and the UAE and returned every few months.

Our guide also explained that the homes in this area weren’t officially permitted and that residents faced the possibility of them being demolished. This was what we were told during our visit in 2018, and we can’t comment on the situation there today.

We sat down with one family and spent some time talking. And the questions certainly weren’t all coming from us. Were we married? Where did we live? Where were we from? How much did we earn? How much did we pay in rent? Some of those questions would probably feel very personal back home, but here they were asked with genuine curiosity.

It was one of the things that stayed with us from the day. These weren’t completely one-sided encounters where we arrived, asked questions and left. The people we met were often just as interested in our lives as we were in theirs.

Seeing a Different Side of Jakarta

We’d already spent quite a bit of time in Jakarta before taking the tour, but this was completely different from the city we’d experienced until then.

Jakarta is a city of enormous contrasts. Modern shopping malls, skyscrapers and luxury hotels exist alongside communities where people live with very little security. The tour made those contrasts much harder to ignore. Our guide also talked to us about how little visibility some of these communities had within Jakarta itself and why he believed bringing visitors into the area could help raise awareness.

We can only describe what we personally saw and what we were told during our visit in 2018, but it certainly gave us a different perspective on the city.

Is the Hidden Jakarta Tour Ethical?

After actually taking the tour, did we feel differently about the ethical concerns we’d had beforehand? Yes, although we still don’t think there’s a simple answer when it comes to this type of tourism.

What made the difference for us was how much of the day involved interaction rather than observation. We sat and talked with people, answered their questions as well as asking our own, travelled around with a local guide and discussed photography and consent before entering the communities. Some people even asked us to take their photos or took photos of us.

It didn’t feel as though we were simply being led around to look at poverty, which had been our biggest concern before booking.

The community-based model was also an important part of why we chose Hidden Jakarta. Today, the organisation continues to state that its tours are run with community consent and that tour fees contribute directly to its Emergency, Education and Empowerment programmes.

That doesn’t mean every tour involving low-income communities is automatically ethical, or that there aren’t uncomfortable aspects to being a relatively wealthy visitor in someone else’s neighbourhood.

If you’re considering this type of tour, we think it’s worth looking at where the money goes, whether the community is involved in running the experience, how photography is handled and, importantly, whether residents actually want visitors there.

Based on the tour we experienced in 2018, we’re glad we went.

Our Reflections on the Hidden Jakarta Tour

Parts of the day were difficult. Seeing such different living conditions up close inevitably made us think about the circumstances we were born into and how dramatically those circumstances can shape someone’s opportunities. But some of our assumptions were also challenged.

Before the tour, we’d worried about how people would react to us being there. In reality, many of our interactions were warm, curious and surprisingly ordinary. People chatted. Children played. Someone wanted a photo. Someone else wanted to know if we were married. Those everyday interactions were ultimately what stayed with us most.

It was also another reminder of why we’d grown to enjoy Jakarta so much. “Why did you come to Jakarta?” was a question we were asked constantly during our time in the city. Our answer was usually simple: the food and the people. After taking the Hidden Jakarta Tour, that felt even more true.

Would We Recommend the Hidden Jakarta Tour?

Based on our experience in 2018, yes. The Hidden Jakarta Tour showed us a part of the city we would never have experienced travelling independently and led to conversations and encounters we wouldn’t otherwise have had. However, we’d still recommend doing your own research before booking. Organisations, communities and tours can change, and our experience was several years ago.

Hidden Jakarta currently describes itself as a community-based tourism initiative operating with local guides, small groups and community consent, with tour fees helping fund its 3E programmes.

If that’s the kind of experience you’re looking for, we’d recommend reading more about how Hidden Jakarta operates today before deciding whether it’s right for you.

For us, the tour wasn’t about seeing the “real Jakarta”, because there isn’t one single version of a city this enormous. It was about understanding another part of it.

June 19, 2018 0 comments
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Indonesia

A Quieter Side of Bali: Jatiluwih, Sidemen & Other Places We Loved

by Livia June 10, 2018
written by Livia

There are countless guides to Bali online, most of them focusing on the same beaches, temples and tourist hotspots. This guide is a little different. Instead of covering Bali’s most famous attractions, we want to share a few places that helped us see a different side of the island.

The first time I visited Bali, I didn’t really understand why everyone loved it so much. After spending several months living in Jakarta, Bali felt expensive and far more tourist-focused than other parts of Indonesia I had visited. It wasn’t until I started exploring beyond the busy southern beaches and central Ubud that I began to appreciate what makes Bali special.

If you’re looking for beach clubs, nightlife and backpacker hangouts, you’ll probably love the southern parts of Bali and central Ubud. But if you prefer quieter places, beautiful landscapes and a slower pace of life, there are still plenty of areas where you can escape the crowds.

I haven’t explored every corner of Bali, but these are a few places that have stood out to us over the years.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces

Yes, Jatiluwih is a tourist attraction. However, it feels very different from the much busier rice terraces around Ubud.

The terraces stretch across a huge area, meaning it’s easy to find quiet corners even when other visitors are around. During our visit, we spent much of our time simply walking through the landscape and enjoying the views.

The scenery here is spectacular and, in our opinion, well worth the journey from the more popular parts of Bali.

Man working in his field at Jatiluwih rice paddies
Beautiful Jatiluwih

Ubud Beyond the Centre

We wouldn’t skip Ubud completely. The area is beautiful and there’s plenty to see. The trick is not staying right in the middle of town.

Instead, look for accommodation in the villages and rice fields surrounding Ubud. You’ll still be close enough to visit the attractions, restaurants and markets, but without the traffic and crowds.

During one of our visits we stayed at Hati Padi Cottages, a small property surrounded by rice fields. At the time we were the only guests, and it remains one of the most peaceful places we’ve stayed anywhere in Indonesia.

The property is run by two French owners and a local Balinese woman, all of whom were incredibly welcoming. We spent our mornings drinking coffee while looking out across the rice fields and our evenings watching the sunset over the surrounding countryside.

It was the kind of place that makes you slow down and appreciate where you are.

📌 Looking for even more things to do in Ubud? Our friend Juan from Planet of Adventures has put together a fantastic guide featuring 13 great things to do in and around Ubud.

Not a super traditional Ayam Taliwang, but still really good!
Our cottage at Hati Padi cottages
Beautiful sunsets over the rice fields

The Beautiful Landscapes of Sidemen

Our visit to Sidemen was completely unplanned.

While exploring the island, our driver suggested taking the scenic road through the area and promised it was worth the detour. He was right.

The road winds through rice fields, villages and beautiful mountain scenery. During our visit we watched locals harvesting crops, children walking home from school and farmers working in the fields.

Sidemen has become more popular with travellers over the years, but it still feels far quieter and more relaxed than many of Bali’s better-known destinations.

We only stopped for lunch and a short walk, but it immediately went onto our list of places to stay during a future visit.

Harvest time in Sideman
Children making their way home from school through the rice fields in Sideman

The Sleepy Town of Klungkung

Klungkung was probably the biggest surprise of our trip.

When I told our driver I wanted to visit, he looked at me rather strangely and asked why. He said very few foreign visitors ever requested a stop there.

The reason was simple: one of my friends grew up in Klungkung, and I wanted to see her hometown.

What we found was a charming Balinese town with very few tourists, a beautiful Hindu temple and a busy local market. Life seemed to move at a slower pace here than in the tourist centres further south.

If you’re curious about everyday life in Bali and want to spend some time somewhere that isn’t built around tourism, Klungkung is well worth a visit.

Its location also makes it easy to combine with a trip to Sidemen.

The hindu temple in Klungkung
The Hindu temple in Klungkung

Final Thoughts

Bali may be famous for its beaches, beach clubs and busy tourist towns, but some of our favourite memories come from the quieter parts of the island.

Places like Jatiluwih, Sidemen and Klungkung offer a slower pace of life and a chance to experience a different side of Bali. Even around Ubud, simply staying a little further from the centre can completely change your experience.

If you’re willing to venture beyond the most popular tourist areas, you’ll discover that Bali is much more than Kuta, Seminyak and central Ubud.

📌 How about making your own chocolate in beautiful Bali? Our friends at twopassportspacked did just that!

June 10, 2018 0 comments
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Bosnia-Herzegovina

Is Banja Luka Worth Visiting?

by Livia February 22, 2018
written by Livia

Banja Luka was our first stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina after arriving by bus from Croatia. On the way, we passed through a police checkpoint and when the officer asked where we were headed, he looked slightly puzzled when we replied, “Banja Luka.” He even asked us why we were going there.

Looking back, we can understand why. Banja Luka rarely appears on tourist itineraries. There aren’t many famous landmarks, the city isn’t particularly touristy, and most visitors head straight for places like Sarajevo or Mostar.

Yet we ended up really enjoying it.

Banja Luka felt very liveable, with leafy streets, a strong café culture and some of the best and cheapest food we had during our month in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s greener, more relaxed and offers a very different side of the country from the destinations most travellers visit. Definitely worth a stop here on a bigger Balkan trip.

If you’re wondering whether Banja Luka is worth visiting, here’s what we enjoyed most and where we recommend eating.

Where to stay in Banja Luka

We stayed in an apartment on the north side of the city, there was one very good restaurant nearby, otherwise it was mostly residential. If we went back we would have stayed more central for ease of moving around on foot. There are many hotel and guest houses around Banja Luka, you can browse them here.

What to do in Banja Luka

There aren’t dozens of must-see attractions in Banja Luka, but there are a few places worth visiting. Combined with the city’s café culture, parks and excellent food scene, there’s more than enough to fill a couple of enjoyable days.

Banja Luka Fort

To be honest, there isn’t much of the fortress itself to see. What remains today is mostly the old walls rather than a grand castle or fort.

We still enjoyed visiting though. We climbed up onto the walls and spent some time watching the river flow past and local life unfold below. It was peaceful, quiet and felt far removed from the city centre.

We visited twice during our stay and had the place entirely to ourselves both times. Best of all, it’s free to visit, making it a great stop if you’re travelling on a budget.

Drink Coffee

You’ll probably find this recommendation in most of our Bosnia guides, but that’s because Bosnia and Herzegovina has a fantastic coffee culture. No matter where you go, you’ll find cafés packed with locals sitting over coffee for hours.

Our favourite coffee stop in Banja Luka was Kafe Bar Kancelarija. It’s a modern coffee bar with friendly staff and excellent coffee (Update May 2026: unfortunately it seems this coffee shop is permanently closed). Finding it can be a little confusing at first, as it’s tucked away behind an office building, but once you know where to look it’s easy enough to find.

Another place we enjoyed was the restaurant inside the fortress grounds, which is also listed in our recommendations below. The outdoor terrace overlooks the river and is a lovely spot to sit with a coffee and watch the world go by. Prices were slightly higher than elsewhere in the city, but still very affordable compared to Western Europe.

Go to Bars

One thing that quickly stood out to us in Banja Luka was how much of daily life seemed to revolve around cafés and bars. From morning coffees to evening beers, the terraces were always full of people meeting friends, chatting and watching the world go by.

One of the best things to do in Banja Luka is simply pick a bar, order a drink and soak up the atmosphere. If you’re feeling ambitious, you could even spend an afternoon or evening hopping between a few of them.

Walking Around Banja Luka

One of our favourite things to do in Banja Luka was simply wander around the city centre and see where we ended up. The city has a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere.

The main pedestrian street is lined with cafés, shops and bars, making it a great place to start exploring. As you walk around, you’ll notice a mix of architectural styles, from Austro-Hungarian buildings and religious landmarks to more modern and Soviet-era architecture.

Two buildings that stood out to us were the Orthodox Cathedral and the nearby mosque, both of which are worth stopping by while exploring the city centre. Neither takes long to visit, but together they help tell part of the story of Banja Luka’s diverse history.

Like much of the city, this isn’t about ticking off major sights. It’s about slowing down, wandering around and enjoying the atmosphere.

Where to eat in Banja Luka

Obelix Grill

Obelix grill restaurant, north of the center is a great Balkan Grill place with affordable prices. This was the cheapest mix grill we had in Balkans, and still very good and made on order. Definitely worth a visit whether your on a budget or not.

Restaurant Kazamat

We really enjoyed this restaurant, and were lucky enough to get a table on a weekend. We had a three course dinner with lots of wine for 60 euros in total (October 2018). It’s not the best food you will have in Bosnia, but the experience was worth it. The restaurant is set inside the fort with stone walls and big wooden tables. There was also a live band that played traditional music. We had a great evening here and would recommend for a visit. Just know that the portions are huge and make sure to book in advance as it most likely will be booked, at least during the weekend.

Kod Muje

There are two Kod Muje in Banja Luka, one next to the mosque and one just over the bridge by the river. It’s the same food and owners so visit either of them. We went to the one next to the Mosque and had some amazing Cevapi.

February 22, 2018 0 comments
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