Guide

Latest update: May 2026

Trebinje, a gem in Hercegovina. Not many cities is Bosnia-Hercegovina are very pretty, but Trebinje really is. The climate was also quite different, much more mediterranean. In general, the landscape of Hercegovina is quite different from the rest of the country, less mountains and less green but still very beautiful. There are also many wineries around the region. This is our Trebinje travel guide, the super picturesque city of Hercegovina.

Where to stay in Trebinje

We stayed at City Apartments, central location within walking distance to the center of town. A pretty yard, clean and comfortable with a little kitchen. We were also welcomed by our host with Rakija shots at 10 in the morning.

What to do in Trebinje

Trebinje is not a touristy city so it doesn’t cater to tourists, which we found very nice. But it also means there arean’t loads of places that you should go and see. We do like to visit these kind of places to get a real feel for a place rather than just ticking off attractions.

Walk Around

Just walking around the city and stumble upon random places is the best thing to do in Trebinje. We love doing that wherever we go and Trebinje is perfect for that. There’s not too much traffic and small enough to walk around. Make sure to stroll along the river, there are some great photo spots with beautiful views over the old town and the old bridge.

Visit Arslanagic Bridge

If you walk further along the river you will find the Arslanagic Bridge, a beautiful old bridge. We found this bridge on par with the one in Mostar, but without tourists. Definitely worth a visit.

Visit Hercegovacka Gracanica

This orthodox church is located on a hill overlooking the whole city. It is walkable but a steep walk up. The church is beautiful, but you really want to come here for the views, they are breathtakingly beautiful. You can see the whole city with the mountains as a backdrop. Make sure to head up here if you visit Trebinje. Also stay for a coffee at the cafe next to the church.

Visit the Church of St. Archangel Michael

This is another orthodox church on a hill. The church itself was closed or under construction when we visited, but you can climb up on the stairs on the outside and you get beautiful views over the city and the surrounding area. The walk up is quite steep, but beautiful. You walk through a villa area on a hill, where life happens.

Visit the Pijaca, the central Market

Come on a Saturday before lunch to see this market at its busiest. People come in from all the surrounding villages to sell their local produce. You will find loads of vegetables, but also home made cheese, honey and other products. As it’s a local market, the prices are also very affordable. After strolling through the market, sit down at one of the cafes on the square for some people watching.

Stari Grad

Walk around old town in Trebinje, it’s not as beautiful as other old towns in Bosnia-Hercegovina, but this is where many people meet for drinks or coffee during weekends. Join the locals and sit down at one of the many cafes or bars and just soak in the vibes.

Drink coffee

As everywhere else in Bosnia-Hercegovina, there’s a strong coffee culture in Trebinje. There’s many nice places around the main square and in old town. But our favourite ones was Botanik, with great coffee just outside the centre of town. Kafe bar Jaz was another favourite, a very nice spot for a coffee by the river, close to the old bridge.

Where to Eat in Trebinje

Trebinje was the only place in Bosnia where we had issues finding good food. It seems like people here doesn’t really go out to eat, so evenings were pretty dead (at least when we were there Saturday and Sunday evening in November). It was mainly hotels that served food, but they were overpriced and not great. Other than that mostly pizza places. According to google many good restaurants are located quite a bit outside the city, but as we didn’t have a car we didn’t visit these. But if you do have a car, try them out.

MG’s

We did manage to find one really nice restaurant, Restoran MG. Located close to the main square. The interior looks like it’s coming straight out of a 70s movie, but they served really nice traditional food and the waiter very friendly. The prices was higher than what we were used to in other places in Bosnia-Hercegovina.

Latest updated: May 2026

Mostar, the city with the famous bridge. Neither of us were too impressed byt this city after travelling from the North of Bosnia and Hercegovina. It is a small city catered to tourists, probably the only place in Bosnia that is, at least where we went. Two nights is definitely more than enough. Our favourite things about Mostar was when we left the old city and all the tourists.

Where to stay in Mostar

We stayed at Nina hostel in Mostar, offering both private rooms as well as dorms. The location is great within walking distance to old town. Very friendly staff, clean and a shared kitchen.

What to Do in Mostar

Sniper Tower

This was one of our highlights in Mostar, the old sniper tower. This former bank building was used as a sniper tower during the war. Now it is an abandoned building, located in the new part of the city full of graffiti. You are not allowed to enter the building, but it is easy to climb in at the back of the building to explore more of the graffiti. We did not do this, as we don’t know how safe it is. You can get a local unofficial guide to show you around, which we would suggest just to be on the safe side. It is also perfectly fine to just walk around on the outside of it and you get to see loads of graffiti that way too.

Mostar Bridge

Mostar bridge is beautiful but a bit underwhelming. There are also huge crowds, even during low season when we were there. The only time the bridge was kind of empty was one evening when it was raining quite heavily. Mostar bridge is not a reason to go to Bosnia, there are plenty of way nicer places around this beautiful country which we recommend more.

Head to a viewpoint by the river, where you get a nice view of the bridge and not as many people. You will see the viewpoint from the bridge, it’s just a short walk there from the bridge.

Old Town of Mostar

Old town, or Stari Grad, is pretty, but it is super touristy. Something we were not used to traveling through Bosnia before going to Mostar. That takes away a lot of the beauty for us. It must have been absolutely stunning without all the tourists shops and crowds. If you are in Mostar, do walk around old town, but make sure to see other parts of the city as well. Which takes me to the next point.

Walk Outside the Old Town

Make sure to discover the new parts of Mostar as well. Where real life it happening. Try some of the coffee places that you’ll find everywhere, look at the architecture and ruined buildings. Just enjoy the local life in Mostar.

Where to Eat in Mostar

Irma Grill

The mixed grill at Irma is out of this world. It is the best mixed grill we had in Bosnia, also including grilled vegetables, which was a first for us. Just know that it is HUGE – the small one is more than enough to share. Even if the price might seem a bit high for mixed grill (compared to other places in Bosnia), it is very well priced for the amount of food you get! We went here both nights we stayed in Mostar.

Behar

Local place in old town of Mostar. Food is a bit cheaper than other places around.

Last updated: May 2026

Sarajevo was one of our favourite stops during our 3.5 months in the Balkans. The capital of Bosnia-Hercegovina can perhaps not be described as beautiful, but the vibe is just amazing. There is also a lot to see and do in Sarajevo. This is our Sarajevo travel guide with all tips of what to do and where to eat when you visit Sarajevo.

Not many Europeans visit Sarajevo, which is a shame. It is very diverse and cultural with a lot of things to offer. There’s an ottoman area, many restaurants, communist blocks, great views, friendly people… Sarajevo has it all!

What to do in Sarajevo

We spent almost two weeks in Sarajevo so we had a chance to do a lot of things in this amazing city. In this post we will mention our favourite things. Sarajevo is small enough to walk around, but local transportation is also easy to navigate, the easiest option is to go by trams.

Walk around and look at the different architecture

Make sure to just walk around and get lost and see what you find. Look around you at all the houses, the rebuilt ones, the modern ones, the Austro-Hungarian ones, the communist buildings and the ones filled with bullet holes. It is a very interesting city to just walk around and look at the architecture in the different areas.

Sarajevo Bobsled Track

This is the old Bobsled track form the Olympic Games 1984. Today it’s full of colourful graffiti. You can walk down the tracks to see all the graffiti. Definitely a must for anyone visiting as it’s a very alternative tourist attraction, and it’s also free of charge. You can take the cable car up there and walk to the bobsled tracks. Or you can take a taxi up the mountain. You could also walk, but it’s a long, steep and boring road to walk up.

Sarajevo Cable Car

There was an old cable car running up the mountain during the Olympic games, during the siege of Sarajevo it got destroyed. But it’s been rebuilt and you can go up the mountain again. It is the tourist price is quite pricey, so if you are on a very tight budget and only want to see the views from up there and/or visit the bobsled tracks, I would suggest taking a taxi, as this is the cheaper option. But if you are interested in the cable car itself then it is worth it.

Jewish Cemetery

This is an abandoned Jewish Cemetery up one of the hills of Sarajevo. It was inaccessible due to landmines for many years, but today it is accessible again. However, it is still abandoned. This was another of our favourite places to visit in Sarajevo, and a very unique place. We were all alone while visiting and it is very beautiful and peaceful. It’s walkable from the city, but it is on a hill so the walk is quite steep.

The Yellow Bastion and the White Fortress

I write these two under the same category as the Yellow Bastion is on the way to the White Fortress. The buildings are not very interesting, but you come here for the views over Sarajevo. There’s also no entrance fee to any of them so it makes a great place to visit if you’re on a budget.

It’s a very beautiful walk to get to these two places, you will start in the old town of Sarajevo, and walk up a hill to reach the Yellow Bastion. After taken a moment there, and maybe some photos, continue the road along the hill. There is a cafe, Kamarija, just next to the Yellow Bastion, which is worth a visit. Not amazing coffee, but the views are very beautiful. After enjoying your coffee, continue through a part of Sarajevo, which feels like a small Italian mountain village, with stone houses and many small alleys. Once you found the right way (use google maps or ask someone), you will reach the White Fortress. On one side you have views over the mountains and valleys and on the other over Sarajevo, both breathtaking.

Abandoned Mansion

From the White Fortress you can also see a huge abandoned mansion. We managed to find our way there, it’s above The Yellow Bastion. You can’t go in, but it is quite beautiful from the outside. So if you are interested in this kind of palaces, do head over there to have a look.Sarajevo City Hall

This building is beautiful. And you can get some great pictures under the archways at the entrence. We didn’t go inside, but I’ve seen pictures from it, and it does look beautiful. Next time I head to Sarajevo I will make sure to go inside as well.

Sarajevo city hall

It is hard to miss this building walking around the city, with it’s colourful facade standing out beside the river.

Explore Baščaršija

This is the old town of Sarajevo. It was built during the Ottoman empire and it kind of feels like being in Turkey when entering this part of Sarajevo. It is very pretty but can get extremely packed with people, especially during weekends. Try to head there on weekdays to enjoy all the small little alleys without the crowds.

Make sure to sit down with a Bosnian coffee in this area. We really enjoyed Kaffa on the big square in Old town. Sit inside or outside with your coffee and do some people watching.

Sarajevo Tunnel museum

This was a quite interesting museum next to the airport in Sarajevo. During the siege this was the tunnel which was used to smuggle food etc. into Sarajevo. It’s only about 20m of the tunnel available for visitors, but the museum is definitely worth a visit if you’re interested in history. It’s a bit tricky to get there without a car, easiest is to take a taxi. We took a bus, but then we had to walk for 40 minutes to the actual museum. On the way back we hitchhiked and were quickly picked up by a french couple.

Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide

This museum is very emotional, but important to visit. You will learn a lot about the years during the Siege of Sarajevo. The most impactful room was the film room, which showed short films from these years. About normal life, how it was, and how people survived, or didn’t survive. Again, it is very very hard and a lot of very graphic pictures and films. So make sure to go there a day when you feel strong enough to handle it. Having said this, we still believe this is a must do when visiting Sarajevo, to understand better how life was and why the city look like it does today.

Latin Bridge

Not super interesting, but you will probably walk by it at some point. It’s an old, quite beautiful, bridge close to the old town. It is also the place where Franz Ferdinand got assassinated, you will find a plaque about this on the side towards old town.

ICAR Canned Beef Monument

Again, maybe not super interesting, but it’s a fun alternative thing to see in Sarajevo. It is an ironic war memorial of ICAR canned beef. Which was an inedible food sent as humanitarian food during the war. It is what it sounds like.

Bars and Cafes to Visit in Sarajevo

Caffe Tito

This Tito inspired cafe, next to the ICAR canned beed monument is a great place if you are interested in Tito and the communist era. It’s filled with things form this time and serves cheap coffee and beers. There’s also old tanks etc. outside the cafe.

Zlatna Ribica

This bar had mad interior. Just for this reason you should go there. There are trinkets everywhere around and all different styles, which makes it quite beautiful. It’s a super small bar so come there on off hours to get a seat.

Tea House Džirlo

This was our favourite hangout in Sarajevo, it is a super cozy tea house in old town. The owners are great and very friendly. You can choose from countless teas, but do make sure to try Salep, a Turkish specialty.

Where to Eat in Sarajevo

Dveri

This was some of the best food we had in Bosnia. It’s a great little restaurant in old town serving traditional food. Make sure to book a table in advance as it often fills up. Try the beef steak and their home made bread.

Avlija

Great little restaurant up the hill outside of the tourist area. Very good traditional food and cozy interior. Quite small so might be worth booking a table in advance.

Ćevabdžinca Petica Ferhatović

Great local restaurant in old town. It was completely packed with locals during lunch. They serve traditional BBQ food, mostly Cevapi. Definitely head here for lunch.

Restoran Bijela Tabija

A nice restaurant with good food next to the white Fortress. A bit more expensive than the very local places, but still good value for money and beautiful views.

Ćevabdžinica Željo

Supposed to be one of the best Cevapi in Sarajevo. We enjoyed it but it’s not the best in Bosnia! But a good cheap place for a quick lunch.

Barhana

Ok restaurant in old town, not the best, but if you can’t get a table anywhere else, you can head here.

We both really enjoyed spending a few days in Travnik. It’s a relaxed small town in central Bosnia and Herzegovina, perfect for slowing down and enjoying local life. With its Ottoman architecture, historic centre and fortress overlooking the town, Travnik feels very different from many other places in the country.

Travnik sits about 90 kilometres west of Sarajevo and was once the capital of the Ottoman province of Bosnia. Much of that history is still visible today, with old mosques, traditional houses and even two clock towers surviving throughout the town.

One of the more unusual sights is the old steam locomotive displayed in the centre. A spark from a train is said to have caused a devastating fire in 1903 that destroyed much of Travnik, and the locomotive now serves as a reminder of that event.

If you’re planning a visit, here’s our Travnik travel guide covering what to do, where to eat and why we think this underrated town is worth a stop.

Where to stay in Travnik

We stayed at Apartment Aid, a 2 bedroom apartment in the center of Travnik. Modern, clean, great place to stay and the host was lovely, sharing all his recommendations.

What to do in Travnik

There aren’t loads of tourist attractions in Travnik, but that was part of the city’s charm for us. Rather than rushing between sights, we found ourselves enjoying the slower pace of life, wandering around town and stopping for coffee.

That said, there are still a handful of interesting places worth visiting during your stay, which we’ve listed below.

Stari Grad Castle

Travnik Castle dates back to the period before the Ottoman Empire ruled Bosnia and Herzegovina. The fortress has been well preserved over the years and remains one of the town’s most impressive landmarks.

We particularly enjoyed the views from the top, which stretch across Travnik and the surrounding hills. If you’re visiting the town, it’s definitely worth making the climb, if only for the scenery and a few good photos.

Plava Voda

Plava Voda, or ‘blue water’ trickles along the stream to the east of Travnik Castle. Wooden bridges crisscross over the water and restaurants and bars line the water’s edge, it’s a popular spot to relax and enjoy a coffee. The Lutvina Kahva Coffeehouse is of historical significance after the Hapsburg Prince dropped in here in 1887 and left a gold coin to keep the place open. Grab a Lutvina Kaffe (basically a Bosnian coffee with a Turkish Delight, a cigarette and a box of matches) and listen to the clear blue water gurgle past you.

Stari Grad

Stari Grad means old town. Travnik’s old town is situated on the hillside of the city, and it is the perfect place to just walk around and get lost in small alleys.

Where to eat in Travnik

Hari ćevabdžinica

After traveling around Bosnia, there’s one thing that everyone agrees upon. The best Ćevapi is from Travnik and the best restaurant to get it at is at Hari. It is without doubt the best we’ve ever tasted. The bread is fresh with a light dusting of sesame seeds. The meat is perfectly cooked with no lumps or gristle. Grab a seat round the back outside next to the river, it’s the perfect accompliment to this national dish. Of course any place serving the best Ćevapi in Bosnia will be a little busy, but went there twice and didn’t have to wait at all. The staff are super friendly and speak very good English.

Kod Seje

If Burek is your bag, drop into Kod Seje just opposite the ‘Colorful Mosque’. The burek is cooked over an open fire and is very fresh. The menu is tiny, they serve three types of burek, but when something is this good who needs choice. Inside is stone walls decorated with old Bosnian paraphenalia.

Jajce is a charming little town in central Bosnia and Herzegovina. With its mix of Ottoman architecture, stone streets and historic buildings, parts of it almost feel like a small Italian hill town. At the same time, reminders of the Bosnian War are still visible, with bullet holes remaining on some buildings throughout the town.

We loved the slower pace of life in Jajce. It felt like the kind of place where you could spend a few days wandering around, drinking coffee and getting pleasantly lost in the old town.

In this Jajce travel guide, we’ll share our favourite things to do, where to eat and why we think this underrated town is worth adding to your Bosnia itinerary.

Where to stay in Jajce

We stayed at Jajce Youth Hostel, which was the cheapest accommodation we found at the time. Location was great, just outside one of the gates to old town and within walking distance to the waterfall, as well as bus station.

What to do in Jajce

There isn’t a huge amount to do in Jajce, but there are enough sights and attractions to fill a couple of days. The real highlight, however, is simply slowing down and enjoying the town itself. Grab a coffee at one of the many cafés, wander the old streets and soak up the relaxed atmosphere.

Jajce Waterfalls

The main attraction in Jajce is the famous waterfall right in the centre of town. It’s definitely worth seeing and one of the most unusual landmarks in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

There is an entrance fee if you want to walk down to the base of the waterfall, but personally we didn’t think it was necessary. The views from above were already excellent and gave us a great perspective of the falls.

There is also a viewpoint on the opposite side of the river that many visitors miss. You can see it from the town side, a small open area with a picnic table overlooking the waterfall. To get there, simply cross the bridge and follow the road. There isn’t a pavement on that side and traffic can move quite quickly, so take care and stay as far to the side as possible.

In our opinion, this viewpoint offered one of the best views of the waterfall and was well worth the short walk.

Visit Jajce Fort

One place you shouldn’t miss is Jajce Fortress. Sitting on top of the hill above town, it offers fantastic views over Jajce and the surrounding countryside. If we’re being honest, we found the views far more impressive than the fortress itself, the panoramic views alone made the climb worthwhile. Entry is inexpensive (October 2018), making it a great stop if you’re travelling on a budget.

Get Lost on Purpose

Jajce isn’t the kind of place where you’ll get lost for hours, but it’s still worth taking the time to wander around the small streets surrounding the fortress and old town.

Once you step away from the main street, you’ll get a glimpse of everyday life in Jajce. The winding alleys, old houses and quiet corners give the town an almost village-like feel. It’s the perfect place for a slow stroll and a chance to enjoy the relaxed pace of life.

Drink Coffee

Like everywhere else we visited in Bosnia, Jajce has no shortage of cafés serving traditional Bosnian coffee.

Our favourite was a small café next to the catacombs, where we had some of the best Bosnian coffee of our entire month travelling through the country. There wasn’t any sun on the outdoor terrace when we visited, so we sat on the stone wall outside instead. The owner noticed this and kindly brought us cushions to sit on, before serving our coffee alongside Turkish delight.

It was a small gesture, but one that perfectly summed up the friendliness and hospitality we experienced throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina. The coffee was excellent and very reasonably priced too. Not sure if it’s there anymore, but if it is sit down and enjoy a coffee.

Visit the Catacombs

The catacombs are another of the few attractions in Jajce, but we thought they were worth a visit. Having never visited any other catacombs, we don’t really have anything to compare them to, but they were larger than we expected and even have two levels to explore.

They won’t be the highlight of your trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, but if you’re already heading up to the fortress they’re well worth a quick stop. They’re also nice and cool inside, making it a good escape from the summer heat.

If you have a little time to spare while exploring Jajce, we’d recommend taking a look.

Where to Eat in Jajce

Kod Asim

This place is really nice, a little touristy but definitely worth a visit. A must try is the Lonac, a specialty for the region. It is served in a claypot and it is divine!

Update May 2026: We can no longer find this restaurant on Google Maps and are unsure whether it is still operating. We’re leaving it in this guide as we really enjoyed eating here during our visit. It is possibly called “Restoran Omerbegova kuća” now.

Kristal Grill

Good place for lunch on the main street. They serve grill dishes and some cooked meals too. The food is good and affordable.

We spent a week in a small village on the banks of the Pliva River and it ended up being one of our favourite experiences in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Surrounded by forests, crystal-clear water and fresh mountain air, Pliva was exactly what we needed after weeks of travelling. It was a place to slow down, clear our heads, catch up on some work and simply enjoy being somewhere peaceful for a while.

Staying by the River

We stayed at the Vacation Home Pliva, Brđani, a simple but beautiful riverside house with everything we needed. The family owning the property immediately made us feel welcome and treated us more like family than customers. The family dog tended to come out with us on walks around the countryside, which was lovely. They also took us with them when they went mushroom picking in the forest.

Life in Pliva

Life moves slowly here. There are a few small local shops selling basic groceries like eggs, milk, butter and of course beer if you need it. Do any bigger shopping before arriving here. The local restaurant charges about double what you’d expect to pay in the city, but the food is well prepared any very tasty.

Instead, you come for the river, the nature and the peace and quiet.

Fly Fishing on the Pliva River

The Pliva River is famous for fly fishing.  Groups coming from all over the world to spend time wading up and down the river perfecting their cast. It’s common to see fishing tourists relaxing in the local “bar” (a kiosk with some tables outside) telling their stories of ‘the one that got away’.

During our stay we met Paul Arden from sexyloops.com (world renowned fly fisherman) who was great fun to chat with, not only about Fly fishing, but also about life in general.

Walk to the Source of the River

One of our favourite walks was following the river upstream to its source. In fact, there are two sources, where the water emerges from caves and beneath the rocks. Seeing such a beautiful river begin as a small trickle of water was surprisingly fascinating.

Along the way we stumbled across a group of locals making homemade rakija. Before we knew it, we had been invited over to see what they were doing and were handed a glass to try. Politely declining wasn’t really an option. As a woman, Livia managed to get away with a single shot. Sam wasn’t so lucky and had to drink three before they were willing to let us continue our walk.

After a chat, a few laughs and a rather strong taste of homemade rakija, we continued on towards the source of the river, only to discover it was about five minutes away. The problem, of course, was that we also had to walk back the same way. Sure enough, we were spotted immediately and invited over for another round. By the time we finally escaped, Sam was relying on a walking stick for balance during the hour-long walk back along the river.

Moments like this ended up becoming some of our favourite memories from Bosnia and Herzegovina.

How to Get to Pliva

We took a taxi from Banja Luka directly to Pliva which cost us €38 (October 2018). You can also catch a bus to the nearest town of Šipovo and take a short 10 minute taxi ride for about €7,50 (October 2018).

Update May 2026: Transport prices have likely changed since our visit in 2018.

Final Thoughts

Pliva isn’t somewhere most tourists visit, and that’s exactly why we loved it.

If you’re looking for a few days of nature, fresh air and slow travel in Bosnia and Herzegovina, we’d happily recommend spending some time by the Pliva River.