Category:

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Our 3-Month Balkans Itinerary: 93 Days by Bus Through Southeast Europe

by Livia June 13, 2026

written by Livia

Between 30 September 2018 and 1 January 2019, we spent 93 days travelling through the Balkans.

Starting in Croatia and finishing in Serbia, we crossed six countries using almost entirely buses and public transport. Along the way we explored historic cities, mountain towns, lakeside villages and some of the most interesting places we have visited anywhere in Europe.

Before this trip, the Balkans were still largely unknown to us. We had heard plenty about Croatia, knew a little about the region’s history and expected a few logistical challenges along the way. What we found instead was a region filled with welcoming people, excellent food, fascinating history and destinations that felt refreshingly authentic.

Three months turned out to be the perfect amount of time. It allowed us to travel slowly, stay longer in places we enjoyed and experience much more than the typical highlights.

This itinerary follows the exact route we travelled between Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, North Macedonia and Serbia.

Our Balkan Route at a Glance

Country	Destinations	Days
Croatia	Pula, Zagreb	5
Bosnia and Herzegovina	Banja Luka, Pliva village, Jajce, Travnik, Sarajevo, Mostar, Trebinje	31
Montenegro	Herceg Novi, Kotor	4
Albania	Shkodër, Tirana, Berat, Gjirokastër, Korçë	17
North Macedonia	Ohrid, Skopje	12
Serbia	Niš, Belgrade, Novi Sad, Subotica	24

How Long Do You Need for This Balkan Itinerary?

We completed this route in 93 days, travelling at a fairly relaxed pace.

If you’re short on time, the itinerary could be reduced to 4-6 weeks by shortening stays in Sarajevo, Tirana, Ohrid and Skopje.

However, one of the things we enjoyed most about this trip was travelling slowly and spending longer in destinations that surprised us.

Croatia: Roman Ruins and a Capital City

Our Balkan adventure began in Croatia. We started in Pula, a coastal city on the Istrian Peninsula that is best known for its remarkably well-preserved Roman amphitheatre. Compared to Croatia’s more famous destinations further south, Pula felt relaxed and easy to explore. We spent our time wandering through the old town, exploring Roman history and enjoying a slower pace before beginning our journey through the Balkans.

From Pula, we travelled by bus to Zagreb. The journey took just over five hours and gave us our first taste of long-distance bus travel in the region.

Zagreb proved to be a pleasant surprise. While many visitors head straight for Croatia’s coastline, the capital has plenty to offer, including lively cafés, historic streets and a more local atmosphere than many of the country’s tourist hotspots.

After a few days in Zagreb, we boarded another bus and crossed our first international border into Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Read next:
– What to Do in Pula
– Zagreb Travel Guide

Bosnia and Herzegovina: The Country That Surprised Us Most

If there was one country that completely exceeded our expectations, it was Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Originally we planned to spend a few weeks here. Instead, we spent more than a month exploring different parts of the country and left wishing we had even more time.

Our first stop was Banja Luka. Compared to many European cities, it felt wonderfully local. There were few tourists, plenty of riverside cafés and a relaxed atmosphere that immediately made us slow down.

From there we headed towards the Pliva Lakes, one of the most peaceful places we visited during the entire trip. Spending several nights here allowed us to enjoy the area beyond the quick day trips that most visitors make.

Nearby Jajce quickly became another highlight. While most people know it for the famous waterfall in the centre of town, there is much more to explore. The old town, fortress and surrounding countryside make it worth staying longer than most itineraries suggest.

Travnik was another pleasant surprise. Sitting beneath a hilltop fortress, the town offered beautiful views, Ottoman history and some excellent local food.

After several smaller destinations, we arrived in Sarajevo.

We ended up spending almost two weeks in the Bosnian capital. Sarajevo is one of the most fascinating cities we have visited anywhere in Europe. The mix of cultures, religions and architectural styles creates an atmosphere that feels completely unique. We spent our days wandering through Baščaršija, drinking Bosnian coffee and learning more about the city’s complex history.

From Sarajevo we continued to Mostar. Although famous for its iconic bridge, we found that the city became much more enjoyable in the evenings after many of the day-trippers had left.

Our final stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina was Trebinje. Located close to the Montenegrin border, the town has a distinctly Mediterranean feel and proved to be one of our favourite smaller destinations in the country.

Looking back, Bosnia and Herzegovina remains one of our favourite countries in Europe.

Read next:

Amazing views from up top of Stari Grad Castle — Pliva river

Montenegro: Bay Views and Medieval Streets

From Trebinje we crossed into Montenegro.

Our first stop was Herceg Novi, a coastal town sitting at the entrance to the Bay of Kotor. Compared to Kotor, it felt more relaxed and less crowded, making it a pleasant place to spend a few days.

We then continued to Kotor, one of the most famous destinations in the Balkans.

There is no denying that Kotor is beautiful. Surrounded by dramatic mountains and sitting beside the bay, it offers some of the most spectacular scenery in the region. We spent our time wandering through the medieval old town and climbing up to the fortress for the famous views.

While Montenegro wasn’t our favourite country during this trip, Kotor is still a destination we would happily recommend to anyone travelling through the Balkans.

Read next:

Albania: Easier Than We Expected

Albania was one of the countries we were most curious about before arriving.

At the time, we had heard plenty of stories about difficult transport and challenging travel conditions. In reality, we found Albania surprisingly easy to travel through.

We entered the country via Shkodër, a relaxed city that makes an excellent introduction to Albania.

From there we travelled south to Tirana, where we spent a full week. The capital felt energetic, colourful and constantly evolving. It was also a welcome place to slow down after several weeks of moving around.

Next came Berat, famous for its white Ottoman houses climbing the hillside. It remains one of the most photogenic towns we visited anywhere in the Balkans.

Gjirokastër quickly became another favourite. The steep cobbled streets, traditional stone houses and impressive fortress give the town a completely different character from anywhere else in Albania.

Our final Albanian destination was Korçë. Often overlooked by international visitors, we loved its atmosphere, local food and authentic feel.

By the time we left Albania, it had become one of the countries we recommended most often to other travellers.

Read next:

North Macedonia: Home to One of Our Favourite Places

After Albania, we crossed into North Macedonia.

Our first stop was Ohrid, a destination that remains one of our favourites from the entire trip.

Set on the shores of Lake Ohrid, the town combines beautiful scenery, historic churches and a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. We spent a week here and could easily have stayed longer.

Ohrid was one of those rare places where doing very little felt completely justified.

From Ohrid we travelled to Skopje.

The capital is unlike any city we have visited before or since. Filled with enormous statues, grand monuments and a fascinating mix of architectural styles, it quickly became one of the most memorable capitals in Europe.

Whether you love it or hate it, Skopje is impossible to forget.

Read next:

Serbia: The Final Chapter

The final country on our route was Serbia.

We started in Niš, one of Europe’s oldest cities and a place filled with history. Although often overlooked by international visitors, we found it a rewarding stop.

Next came Belgrade.

As the largest city on this itinerary, Belgrade felt energetic, chaotic and full of life. Between the food, nightlife and historic sights, there was plenty to keep us busy.

After Belgrade we travelled north to Novi Sad. With its attractive old town and impressive Petrovaradin Fortress overlooking the Danube, it quickly became one of our favourite Serbian cities.

Our final destination was Subotica.

We arrived during the festive season and spent an afternoon exploring the colourful architecture and Christmas market before unfortunately becoming quite ill. While we didn’t get to see as much of the city as we had hoped, we still enjoyed the brief time we spent there.

On 1 January 2019, we left Serbia and brought our three-month Balkan journey to an end.

Read next:

Can You Travel the Balkans Without a Car?

Absolutely. One of the biggest surprises of this trip was how easy it was to travel through the Balkans using public transport.

Over the course of 93 days, we crossed six countries almost entirely by bus. Most tickets were purchased locally, many were bought just a day before departure and some were even purchased on the same day.

The buses weren’t always luxurious. Toilets on board were rare, luggage often came with a small additional fee and English wasn’t always widely spoken at bus stations. However, we rarely encountered any serious problems.

Border crossings were generally straightforward and most destinations were connected by regular bus services.

For budget-conscious travellers, travelling by bus remains one of the best ways to explore the region.

Beautiful views over the mountains from the bus window — Your average bus stop in the Balkans

Final Thoughts

The Balkans quickly became one of our favourite regions in Europe.

Over three months, we explored Ottoman old towns, Austro-Hungarian cities, mountain villages, lakeside communities and bustling capitals. We drank countless cups of Bosnian coffee, crossed borders we previously knew very little about and discovered destinations that far exceeded our expectations.

Bosnia and Herzegovina surprised us the most.

Ohrid became one of our favourite places in Europe.

Albania proved far easier to travel than we expected.

And throughout the entire trip, travelling by bus allowed us to experience the region at a slower and more rewarding pace.

Even after 93 days, we left with a long list of places we still wanted to visit. That, perhaps, is the best recommendation we can give.

June 13, 2026 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina Travel Itineraries

Bosnia and Herzegovina Itinerary: Our 1 Month Route by Bus

by Livia May 31, 2026

written by Livia

Bosnia and Herzegovina ended up being one of our favourite countries during our Balkan trip in 2018. We entered from Croatia expecting to spend a week or so exploring the country, but ended up staying for a month.

What we found was a country full of friendly people, incredible food, strong coffee culture, beautiful scenery and fascinating history. From lively cities to quiet riverside villages, Bosnia offered a perfect mix of culture and slow travel.

Our Bosnia and Herzegovina route

We travelled almost entirely by bus, with a couple of taxi journeys in more rural areas. This route took us from northern Bosnia all the way south to the border with Montenegro.

Our route looked like this:
Banja Luka → Pliva → Jajce → Travnik → Sarajevo → Mostar → Trebinje

Banja Luka (3 Nights)

Banja Luka was our first stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina after arriving by bus from Croatia.

At first glance, it might not seem like an obvious tourist destination. There are relatively few major attractions compared to Sarajevo or Mostar, but we ended up loving the city. It felt relaxed, affordable and incredibly liveable, with a strong café culture and some of the best food we had anywhere in Bosnia.

If you enjoy people-watching from a café terrace and discovering places that aren’t overrun with tourists, Banja Luka is well worth a stop.

Read our full Banka Luka guide here.

Pliva River (5 Nights)

Our stay on the Pliva River was one of the highlights of the entire trip. We spent five nights in a small riverside village, slowing down and enjoying nature. The days were spent walking along the river, visiting the source of the water and chatting with locals.

We stayed at the Vacation Home Pliva, Brđani and had the best experience, the family running this place are lovely, and it’s situated just on the river.

One memorable afternoon we stumbled across a group making homemade rakija. Several shots later, we eventually made it to the river source before having to pass them again on the way back.

If you’re looking for a quieter side of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a few days by the Pliva River is hard to beat, read about our full experience here.

Jajce (3 Nights)

Jajce is best known for its dramatic waterfall located right in the centre of town.

While the waterfall is certainly worth seeing, what we enjoyed most was the relaxed atmosphere and charming old town. We spent our time wandering the streets, drinking coffee and enjoying the slower pace of life.

We stayed at Jajce Youth Hostel, which was a great base for exploring the town on foot.

Jajce is a great place to spend a few days and works well as a stop between northern Bosnia and Sarajevo.

Read our full Jajce travel guide here.

Travnik (3 Nights)

Travnik quickly became one of our favourite towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The town is home to an impressive fortress, beautiful Ottoman architecture and what many locals claim are the best ćevapi in the country.

We loved its relaxed atmosphere and found it to be one of the easiest places in Bosnia to simply slow down and enjoy everyday life.

We stayed at Apartment Aid, a 2 bedroom apartment in the center of Travnik. It was the perfect location as well as a very friendly and helpful host.

Read our full Travnik guide here.

Sarajevo (13 Nights)

Sarajevo was by far our longest stop. After moving around quite a bit, we decided to slow down and spend nearly two weeks in the capital. It turned out to be one of the best decisions we made.

Sarajevo has enough history, culture, cafés and restaurants to keep you busy for much longer than a few days. We spent our time exploring different neighbourhoods, learning about the city’s complex history and eating our way through countless local restaurants.

If you’re visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo deserves several days at a minimum, read our full Sarajevo guide here.

Mostar (2 Nights)

Mostar is one of the country’s most famous destinations and home to the iconic Stari Most bridge.

The old town is beautiful, if a little more touristy than other places we visited. Even so, it is easy to understand why people love it. The historic centre, river views and excellent food make it well worth visiting.

Two nights was enough for us to explore the town and enjoy its atmosphere, although it could easily be done in less time if you’re short on days. That said, we would still recommend spending at least one night in Mostar to experience the old town after the day-trippers have left.

We stayed at Nina hostel, which was a great base for exploring the city and within easy walking distance of the main sights.

Read our full Mostar guide here.

Trebinje (2 Nights)

Trebinje was our final stop before crossing into Montenegro.

Often overlooked by travellers, we found it to be a charming town with a lovely old centre, excellent restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere. It also felt noticeably different from the rest of Bosnia, partly due to its proximity to both Croatia and Montenegro.

Travelling Bosnia by Bus

We travelled almost entirely by bus and found it to be an easy and affordable way to get around.

The routes between major cities were straightforward, tickets were inexpensive and the scenery along the way was often spectacular. While having a car would provide more flexibility for exploring remote areas, we never felt limited travelling independently by public transport.

For this route, we don’t think a car is necessary.

Is Bosnia and Herzegovina Safe?

We felt extremely safe throughout our month in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

People were friendly, welcoming and often went out of their way to help. Like anywhere, it’s worth using common sense, but we never experienced any problems while travelling around the country by bus or on foot.

In fact, one of the things we remember most about Bosnia is the warmth and hospitality of the people we met.

What We’d Change

Honestly, not very much.

This route worked incredibly well and gave us a great mix of cities, small towns and nature. If we were to do it again, we’d probably explore some of the national parks and more remote parts of the country.

We’d also happily return to the Pliva River for another few days of doing very little.

Final Thoughts

Bosnia and Herzegovina became one of our favourite countries in the Balkans.

We came expecting beautiful scenery and interesting history, but what really stood out were the people, the food and the slower pace of life. It’s a country that still feels authentic, affordable and surprisingly under-visited.

If you’re planning a trip through the Balkans, don’t rush through Bosnia and Herzegovina. Give it time, order another coffee and stay a little longer than you planned.

May 31, 2026 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina

What to Eat in Bosnia and Herzegovina: Must-Try Dishes

by Sam March 12, 2019

written by Sam

One of the biggest surprises during our month in Bosnia and Herzegovina was just how good the food was. Before arriving, we knew very little about Bosnian cuisine, but it quickly became one of our favourite food destinations in the Balkans.

Traditional Bosnian food is hearty, filling and often centred around meat, slow-cooked stews and freshly baked bread. Meals are typically made from local and seasonal ingredients and generous portions are the norm. You’ll also notice influences from both the Ottoman Empire and neighbouring Balkan countries throughout the cuisine.

We also loved the café culture. Whether it was strong Bosnian coffee served with Turkish delight, a cold local beer or a glass of homemade rakija, food and drink seemed to play a central role in everyday life.

There are countless dishes worth trying, but these were some of our favourites from our month travelling around Bosnia and Herzegovina, along with where we enjoyed them most.

1. Ćevapi

Bosnia and Herzegovina is the land of ćevapi, and trying them is practically mandatory while visiting the country. These small grilled sausages are usually served inside soft flatbread with a generous helping of raw onions, although some places also offer ajvar or a yoghurt-based sauce.

During our month in Bosnia, we ate more ćevapi than we care to admit, and after plenty of research, we finally found our favourite. That honour goes to Haris in Travnik. In fact, several locals in Sarajevo told us that Haris in Travnik was the place to go for the best ćevapi in Bosnia, and after trying them ourselves, we completely agree. They were juicy, full of flavour and easily the best we had during our trip.

2. Mućkalica

Mućkalica is a rich meat stew cooked in a tomato-based sauce and one of our favourite dishes we tried in Bosnia and Herzegovina. While it originates from Serbia, you’ll find plenty of Serbian influences in the cuisine of Bosnia and Herzegovina, particularly in the Republika Srpska region.

The dish consists of tender pieces of meat cooked in a flavourful tomato-based sauce and is the perfect comfort food after a day of exploring.

The best version we had was in Sarajevo at a small restaurant with one very unusual feature for Bosnia: it was completely non-smoking (October 2018). The tiny kitchen at the back was constantly buzzing with activity as the cooks prepared everything from scratch.

The restaurant was popular with both locals and visitors, so we’d recommend booking a table in advance. The staff spoke excellent English and were incredibly welcoming. While the mućkalica was the highlight for us, the homemade bread crown and excellent steaks were also worth mentioning.

3. Bosanski Lonac

Bosanski Lonac quickly became Livia’s favourite dish in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This traditional slow-cooked stew is typically made with meat, cabbage, carrots, onions and other vegetables, all cooked together for hours until the flavours combine into something wonderfully rich and comforting.

The best version we tried was at Kod Asima in Jajce, located above the entrance to the old town (Update May 2026: we can’t find this restaurant on Google Maps anymore). The interior is a little dated and dark, but there is also a pleasant rooftop terrace if the weather is nice.

What made this Lonac so memorable was the texture. It was thick, rich and packed with flavour, unlike some of the thinner versions we encountered elsewhere. We ended up talking about this meal long after leaving Jajce.

One interesting thing we noticed during our travels was that Bosanski Lonac seemed much more common in the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. We don’t remember seeing it on menus during our time in Republika Srpska, although that may simply have been the places we visited.

4. Mix grill

Grilled meat is a huge part of Bosnian cuisine, and you’ll find mixed grill platters on menus all over the country. We ordered them more times than we can remember during our month in Bosnia, and rarely had a bad meal.

One of the best mixed grills we found was at Irma in Mostar‘s Old Town. Everything is cooked over a charcoal grill, and watching the chef work is almost as entertaining as the meal itself. At one point she was pulling meat from the flames with her bare hands before piling it onto enormous platters.

We ordered the mixed grill for two and were genuinely shocked when it arrived. For around 30 KM (October 2018), we received a mountain of grilled meat, vegetables, ajvar, bread, cream cheese and, of course, a generous helping of raw onions. It was a mountain of joy. If you visit Mostar, arrive hungry. We made the mistake of eating earlier in the day and quickly realised that was a rookie error.

Mostar Irma Grill Livia — Mostar Irma Grill

5. Burek

Burek is one of the most popular snacks in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and you’ll find it everywhere. Made from thin layers of pastry and filled with different ingredients, it’s the perfect quick meal whether you’re grabbing breakfast, lunch or a late-night snack.

Our favourite version was the traditional meat-filled burek, although you’ll also find varieties filled with cheese, spinach and potatoes. Most bakeries (pekara) sell fresh burek throughout the day, and many stay open late into the evening, making it one of the easiest foods to find when travelling around the country.

The best burek we had was in Travnik, but honestly, we don’t remember ever having a bad one. If you’re visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina, eating burek at least once is practically a requirement.

6. Bosnian Coffee

No visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina would be complete without trying Bosnian coffee. Strong, rich and traditionally served in a small copper pot alongside a cup and often a piece of Turkish delight, drinking coffee here is as much about the experience as the coffee itself.

We quickly fell in love with Bosnia’s café culture. No matter where we went, cafés were full of people chatting, reading the newspaper or simply watching the world go by. Unlike many countries where coffee is something you drink quickly before moving on, in Bosnia it is often something to be enjoyed slowly.

Some of our favourite coffee experiences came from the smaller towns. In Jajce, a café owner even brought us cushions to sit on while we enjoyed our coffee in the autumn sunshine. Moments like these became some of our favourite memories from Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Whether you drink it with sugar, Turkish delight or a glass of water on the side, Bosnian coffee is a must-try experience while travelling through the country.

7. Biftek

While biftek isn’t a traditional Bosnian dish in the same way as ćevapi or burek, Bosnia and Herzegovina is known for its excellent meat, making a good steak well worth trying.

We didn’t order biftek too often, mainly because it was usually one of the more expensive items on the menu, but whenever we did, we were rarely disappointed. The quality of the meat was consistently excellent and portions were generous.

One of the best steaks we had during our trip was at MGs restaurant in Trebinje, where it arrived perfectly cooked and packed with flavour. If you’ve spent a few days eating ćevapi and stews, a good biftek makes for a nice change.

March 12, 2019 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina Travel Tips: A Practical Survival Guide

by Livia March 9, 2019

written by Livia

Bosnia and Hercegovina might be the most difficult place we travelled through in Europe. Just because it is very different from our cultures being Swedish and British. It took us a little bit of time to understand certain things and to not misinterpret situations. BUT both of us absolutely fell in love with this beautiful country. So here is our little with survival guide for Bosnia-Hercegovina so you don’t have to go through the same rough beginning as we did.

Is Bosnia safe to travel in?

We were asked many times whether Bosnia and Herzegovina was safe to visit, often by people who still associated the country with its past. In reality, we felt very safe throughout our trip and never experienced any problems.

The people we met were incredibly friendly, welcoming and helpful, and Bosnia ended up feeling far calmer and more relaxed than many people seem to expect. Like anywhere, it’s always good to use normal common sense while travelling, but overall we found Bosnia and Herzegovina to be a safe and rewarding country to explore.

People might seem hard at first

This was probably the biggest issues for me in the beginning. People looked very hard, and didn’t smile and was very short with us. But we quickly realised that you just need to give them a moment to warm up to you and then you will meet the friendliest people and be welcomed with open arms.

Language

English is not widely spoken (except for Mostar and Sarajevo), but people will be more than happy to speak with you anyway, in Bosnian. They will also help you even if they can’t express themselves in English. Most people do speak German, especially in the north and central parts of Bosnia. We don’t speak German, but if you do it will make your travels easier. Make sure to try to learn a few phrases in Bosnian as this will be very positively received and people will warm up to you quicker, even if it’s just a Dobar dan (Hello) and Hvala (Thank you).

Food

We found the food in Bosnia-Hercegovina amazing. However, we did not eat many vegetables during our month there. We took vitamin supplement in Bosnia as we ate so few vegetables. The food is also very meat heavy so if you’re a vegetarian you might have issues. Especially outside big cities. Mostar was the only place we saw advertising vegetarian food. Food is also seasonal, so if you visit during spring or summer there may be more vegetables, but as we visited in October we didn’t see a lot of fresh vegetables.

Ask the locals for the best food

Ask local people about recommendations for restaurants. There’s not a lot on the internet and the locals always knows best.

Bakeries

For the cheapest lunch, go to any bakery and get a burek. Bakeries are also open late, so you can always get one.

Typical dinner in Bosnia – as well as mixed grill

How to travel around Bosnia

Bus is king in Bosnia-Hercegovina. So if you’re going from A to B take the bus. It’s super easy and cheap. We loved going by bus in Bosnia, it was just an amazing experience. If there is no bus to where you’re going you can get a car, it was affordable compared to western Europe. Prices start at 1.80km + 1km per km (2018). If traveling long distances you can make a deal.

Bus schedules and tickets

Don’t try to check bus schedules online. They will most likely not exist and if they do, they might be old. Just head to the bus station or call them to get the times. We always made sure to take a photo of the timetable when we arrived to a bus station. We never bought a bus ticket in advance, the only time we tried they told us to come back just half an hour before the bus is supposed to depart. But if you really want to make sure you get on that bus, buy them the day before.

How expensive is Bosnia-Hercegovina?

Prices are in general much cheaper to western Europe and neighbouring country Croatia and Montenegro. You can always judge prices of a place by checking the price of cevapi and coffee, the cheapest cevapi we had was 4.50km and about 7km in Sarajevo and Mostar. Coffee (espresso) should be maximum 2km – but we usually paid 1 (October 2018).

We found Mostar and Sarajevo more expensive than the rest of the country, probably because Mostar is a popular tourist destination, and Sarajevo being the capital. The cheapest areas we visited was for north and central Bosnia.

Get a Bosnian simcard

As Bosnia-Hercegovina is not part of EU, we got a Bosnian simcard when we arrived. Just head to one of the small kiosks in the city you’re in and they will most likely help you set it up, try to go to one where they speak English. It was also very affordable so it won’t burst your budget, we paid 3.5KM for 1GB data (in 2018) for a week and free calls and texts within Bosnia. If you’re traveling through the country or to different areas, make sure to get a sim card that will work in the entire country, we used M Tel and never had any issues.

Alcohol

Alcohol is very cheap in Bosnia-Hercegovina (especially compared to Sweden and UK) and the drinking culture is big. Beers and Soft drinks are usually the same price, or sometimes beer is even cheaper. You will find people drinking early mornings and on their lunch breaks, especially in smaller places. There is also a big Rakija (local homemade spirits) culture, and everywhere we stayed there was a bottle of Rakija waiting for us, or we were welcomed with a shot – even if we arrived at 10am.

Walking through a village in Rakija season only means one thing

Ask for tap water

If you don’t ask for tap water they will bring bottled water. However tap water is always free and safe to drink. Better for the planet and your wallet.

Ask people for help

If you have any issues, just ask someone around you. We found people being super helpful and wanting to give us the best experience possible in their country.

Make sure to head out to nature

Bosnia-Hercegovina has some of the most beautiful nature. It also feels very untouched and diverse, with mountains, forests, lakes, rivers etc. We headed out to a small village by Pliva river, which was just beautiful.

Be prepared for staring

Bosnia-Hercegovina doesn’t see many tourists, except for Mostar and maybe Sarajevo. So people will stare a bit at you. Some will also come up to you and ask where you’re from and why you’re here etc. But it’s all in a very nice way. We never felt uncomfortable.

March 9, 2019 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Trebinje, Bosnia’s Relaxed Southern Town

by Sam March 6, 2019

written by Sam

Latest update: May 2026

Trebinje, a gem in Hercegovina. Not many cities is Bosnia-Hercegovina are very pretty, but Trebinje really is. The climate was also quite different, much more mediterranean. In general, the landscape of Hercegovina is quite different from the rest of the country, less mountains and less green but still very beautiful. There are also many wineries around the region. This is our Trebinje travel guide, the super picturesque city of Hercegovina.

Where to stay in Trebinje

We stayed at City Apartments, central location within walking distance to the center of town. A pretty yard, clean and comfortable with a little kitchen. We were also welcomed by our host with Rakija shots at 10 in the morning.

What to do in Trebinje

Trebinje is not a touristy city so it doesn’t cater to tourists, which we found very nice. But it also means there arean’t loads of places that you should go and see. We do like to visit these kind of places to get a real feel for a place rather than just ticking off attractions.

Walk Around

Just walking around the city and stumble upon random places is the best thing to do in Trebinje. We love doing that wherever we go and Trebinje is perfect for that. There’s not too much traffic and small enough to walk around. Make sure to stroll along the river, there are some great photo spots with beautiful views over the old town and the old bridge.

Visit Arslanagic Bridge

If you walk further along the river you will find the Arslanagic Bridge, a beautiful old bridge. We found this bridge on par with the one in Mostar, but without tourists. Definitely worth a visit.

Visit Hercegovacka Gracanica

This orthodox church is located on a hill overlooking the whole city. It is walkable but a steep walk up. The church is beautiful, but you really want to come here for the views, they are breathtakingly beautiful. You can see the whole city with the mountains as a backdrop. Make sure to head up here if you visit Trebinje. Also stay for a coffee at the cafe next to the church.

Visit the Church of St. Archangel Michael

This is another orthodox church on a hill. The church itself was closed or under construction when we visited, but you can climb up on the stairs on the outside and you get beautiful views over the city and the surrounding area. The walk up is quite steep, but beautiful. You walk through a villa area on a hill, where life happens.

Visit the Pijaca, the central Market

Come on a Saturday before lunch to see this market at its busiest. People come in from all the surrounding villages to sell their local produce. You will find loads of vegetables, but also home made cheese, honey and other products. As it’s a local market, the prices are also very affordable. After strolling through the market, sit down at one of the cafes on the square for some people watching.

Stari Grad

Walk around old town in Trebinje, it’s not as beautiful as other old towns in Bosnia-Hercegovina, but this is where many people meet for drinks or coffee during weekends. Join the locals and sit down at one of the many cafes or bars and just soak in the vibes.

Drink coffee

As everywhere else in Bosnia-Hercegovina, there’s a strong coffee culture in Trebinje. There’s many nice places around the main square and in old town. But our favourite ones was Botanik, with great coffee just outside the centre of town. Kafe bar Jaz was another favourite, a very nice spot for a coffee by the river, close to the old bridge.

Where to Eat in Trebinje

Trebinje was the only place in Bosnia where we had issues finding good food. It seems like people here doesn’t really go out to eat, so evenings were pretty dead (at least when we were there Saturday and Sunday evening in November). It was mainly hotels that served food, but they were overpriced and not great. Other than that mostly pizza places. According to google many good restaurants are located quite a bit outside the city, but as we didn’t have a car we didn’t visit these. But if you do have a car, try them out.

MG’s

We did manage to find one really nice restaurant, Restoran MG. Located close to the main square. The interior looks like it’s coming straight out of a 70s movie, but they served really nice traditional food and the waiter very friendly. The prices was higher than what we were used to in other places in Bosnia-Hercegovina.

March 6, 2019 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Exploring Mostar

by Livia March 3, 2019

written by Livia

Latest updated: May 2026

Mostar, the city with the famous bridge. Neither of us were too impressed byt this city after travelling from the North of Bosnia and Hercegovina. It is a small city catered to tourists, probably the only place in Bosnia that is, at least where we went. Two nights is definitely more than enough. Our favourite things about Mostar was when we left the old city and all the tourists.

Where to stay in Mostar

We stayed at Nina hostel in Mostar, offering both private rooms as well as dorms. The location is great within walking distance to old town. Very friendly staff, clean and a shared kitchen.

What to Do in Mostar

Sniper Tower

This was one of our highlights in Mostar, the old sniper tower. This former bank building was used as a sniper tower during the war. Now it is an abandoned building, located in the new part of the city full of graffiti. You are not allowed to enter the building, but it is easy to climb in at the back of the building to explore more of the graffiti. We did not do this, as we don’t know how safe it is. You can get a local unofficial guide to show you around, which we would suggest just to be on the safe side. It is also perfectly fine to just walk around on the outside of it and you get to see loads of graffiti that way too.

Mostar Bridge

Mostar bridge is beautiful but a bit underwhelming. There are also huge crowds, even during low season when we were there. The only time the bridge was kind of empty was one evening when it was raining quite heavily. Mostar bridge is not a reason to go to Bosnia, there are plenty of way nicer places around this beautiful country which we recommend more.

Head to a viewpoint by the river, where you get a nice view of the bridge and not as many people. You will see the viewpoint from the bridge, it’s just a short walk there from the bridge.

Old Town of Mostar

Old town, or Stari Grad, is pretty, but it is super touristy. Something we were not used to traveling through Bosnia before going to Mostar. That takes away a lot of the beauty for us. It must have been absolutely stunning without all the tourists shops and crowds. If you are in Mostar, do walk around old town, but make sure to see other parts of the city as well. Which takes me to the next point.

Walk Outside the Old Town

Make sure to discover the new parts of Mostar as well. Where real life it happening. Try some of the coffee places that you’ll find everywhere, look at the architecture and ruined buildings. Just enjoy the local life in Mostar. While wandering Mostar on your own is rewarding, a free walking tour of Mostar can help bring the city’s fascinating history and culture to life while introducing you to places you might otherwise walk straight past.

Where to Eat in Mostar

Irma Grill

The mixed grill at Irma is out of this world. It is the best mixed grill we had in Bosnia, also including grilled vegetables, which was a first for us. Just know that it is HUGE – the small one is more than enough to share. Even if the price might seem a bit high for mixed grill (compared to other places in Bosnia), it is very well priced for the amount of food you get! We went here both nights we stayed in Mostar.

Behar

Local place in old town of Mostar. Food is a bit cheaper than other places around.

March 3, 2019 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Coffee, History and Hills in Sarajevo

by Livia February 26, 2019

written by Livia

Last updated: May 2026

Sarajevo was one of our favourite stops during our 3.5 months in the Balkans. The capital of Bosnia-Hercegovina can perhaps not be described as beautiful, but the vibe is just amazing. There is also a lot to see and do in Sarajevo. This is our Sarajevo travel guide with all tips of what to do and where to eat when you visit Sarajevo.

Not many Europeans visit Sarajevo, which is a shame. It is very diverse and cultural with a lot of things to offer. There’s an ottoman area, many restaurants, communist blocks, great views, friendly people… Sarajevo has it all!

What to do in Sarajevo

We spent almost two weeks in Sarajevo so we had a chance to do a lot of things in this amazing city. In this post we will mention our favourite things. Sarajevo is small enough to walk around, but local transportation is also easy to navigate, the easiest option is to go by trams.

Walk around and look at the different architecture

Make sure to just walk around and get lost and see what you find. Look around you at all the houses, the rebuilt ones, the modern ones, the Austro-Hungarian ones, the communist buildings and the ones filled with bullet holes. It is a very interesting city to just walk around and look at the architecture in the different areas.

Sarajevo Bobsled Track

This is the old Bobsled track form the Olympic Games 1984. Today it’s full of colourful graffiti. You can walk down the tracks to see all the graffiti. Definitely a must for anyone visiting as it’s a very alternative tourist attraction, and it’s also free of charge. You can take the cable car up there and walk to the bobsled tracks. Or you can take a taxi up the mountain. You could also walk, but it’s a long, steep and boring road to walk up.

Sarajevo Cable Car

There was an old cable car running up the mountain during the Olympic games, during the siege of Sarajevo it got destroyed. But it’s been rebuilt and you can go up the mountain again. It is the tourist price is quite pricey, so if you are on a very tight budget and only want to see the views from up there and/or visit the bobsled tracks, I would suggest taking a taxi, as this is the cheaper option. But if you are interested in the cable car itself then it is worth it.

Jewish Cemetery

This is an abandoned Jewish Cemetery up one of the hills of Sarajevo. It was inaccessible due to landmines for many years, but today it is accessible again. However, it is still abandoned. This was another of our favourite places to visit in Sarajevo, and a very unique place. We were all alone while visiting and it is very beautiful and peaceful. It’s walkable from the city, but it is on a hill so the walk is quite steep.

The Yellow Bastion and the White Fortress

I write these two under the same category as the Yellow Bastion is on the way to the White Fortress. The buildings are not very interesting, but you come here for the views over Sarajevo. There’s also no entrance fee to any of them so it makes a great place to visit if you’re on a budget.

It’s a very beautiful walk to get to these two places, you will start in the old town of Sarajevo, and walk up a hill to reach the Yellow Bastion. After taken a moment there, and maybe some photos, continue the road along the hill. There is a cafe, Kamarija, just next to the Yellow Bastion, which is worth a visit. Not amazing coffee, but the views are very beautiful. After enjoying your coffee, continue through a part of Sarajevo, which feels like a small Italian mountain village, with stone houses and many small alleys. Once you found the right way (use google maps or ask someone), you will reach the White Fortress. On one side you have views over the mountains and valleys and on the other over Sarajevo, both breathtaking.

Views out of the city from the White Fortress

Abandoned Mansion

From the White Fortress you can also see a huge abandoned mansion. We managed to find our way there, it’s above The Yellow Bastion. You can’t go in, but it is quite beautiful from the outside. So if you are interested in this kind of palaces, do head over there to have a look.Sarajevo City Hall

This building is beautiful. And you can get some great pictures under the archways at the entrence. We didn’t go inside, but I’ve seen pictures from it, and it does look beautiful. Next time I head to Sarajevo I will make sure to go inside as well.

Sarajevo city hall

It is hard to miss this building walking around the city, with it’s colourful facade standing out beside the river.

Get an instagram worthy pic at the City Hall

Explore Baščaršija

This is the old town of Sarajevo. It was built during the Ottoman empire and it kind of feels like being in Turkey when entering this part of Sarajevo. It is very pretty but can get extremely packed with people, especially during weekends. Try to head there on weekdays to enjoy all the small little alleys without the crowds.

Go to any of the small workshops to see how they make their merchandise

Make sure to sit down with a Bosnian coffee in this area. We really enjoyed Kaffa on the big square in Old town. Sit inside or outside with your coffee and do some people watching.

Sarajevo Tunnel museum

This was a quite interesting museum next to the airport in Sarajevo. During the siege this was the tunnel which was used to smuggle food etc. into Sarajevo. It’s only about 20m of the tunnel available for visitors, but the museum is definitely worth a visit if you’re interested in history. It’s a bit tricky to get there without a car, easiest is to take a taxi. We took a bus, but then we had to walk for 40 minutes to the actual museum. On the way back we hitchhiked and were quickly picked up by a french couple.

Part of the tunnel which is open for visitors

Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide

This museum is very emotional, but important to visit. You will learn a lot about the years during the Siege of Sarajevo. The most impactful room was the film room, which showed short films from these years. About normal life, how it was, and how people survived, or didn’t survive. Again, it is very very hard and a lot of very graphic pictures and films. So make sure to go there a day when you feel strong enough to handle it. Having said this, we still believe this is a must do when visiting Sarajevo, to understand better how life was and why the city look like it does today.

Latin Bridge

Not super interesting, but you will probably walk by it at some point. It’s an old, quite beautiful, bridge close to the old town. It is also the place where Franz Ferdinand got assassinated, you will find a plaque about this on the side towards old town.

ICAR Canned Beef Monument

Again, maybe not super interesting, but it’s a fun alternative thing to see in Sarajevo. It is an ironic war memorial of ICAR canned beef. Which was an inedible food sent as humanitarian food during the war. It is what it sounds like.

Bars and Cafes to Visit in Sarajevo

Caffe Tito

This Tito inspired cafe, next to the ICAR canned beed monument is a great place if you are interested in Tito and the communist era. It’s filled with things form this time and serves cheap coffee and beers. There’s also old tanks etc. outside the cafe.

Zlatna Ribica

This bar had mad interior. Just for this reason you should go there. There are trinkets everywhere around and all different styles, which makes it quite beautiful. It’s a super small bar so come there on off hours to get a seat.

Tea House Džirlo

This was our favourite hangout in Sarajevo, it is a super cozy tea house in old town. The owners are great and very friendly. You can choose from countless teas, but do make sure to try Salep, a Turkish specialty.

Where to Eat in Sarajevo

Dveri

This was some of the best food we had in Bosnia. It’s a great little restaurant in old town serving traditional food. Make sure to book a table in advance as it often fills up. Try the beef steak and their home made bread.

Avlija

Great little restaurant up the hill outside of the tourist area. Very good traditional food and cozy interior. Quite small so might be worth booking a table in advance.

Ćevabdžinca Petica Ferhatović

Great local restaurant in old town. It was completely packed with locals during lunch. They serve traditional BBQ food, mostly Cevapi. Definitely head here for lunch.

Restoran Bijela Tabija

A nice restaurant with good food next to the white Fortress. A bit more expensive than the very local places, but still good value for money and beautiful views.

Ćevabdžinica Željo

Supposed to be one of the best Cevapi in Sarajevo. We enjoyed it but it’s not the best in Bosnia! But a good cheap place for a quick lunch.

Barhana

Ok restaurant in old town, not the best, but if you can’t get a table anywhere else, you can head here.

February 26, 2019 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Why Visit Travnik, Bosnia and Herzegovina?

by Sam October 17, 2018

written by Sam

We both really enjoyed spending a few days in Travnik. It’s a relaxed small town in central Bosnia and Herzegovina, perfect for slowing down and enjoying local life. With its Ottoman architecture, historic centre and fortress overlooking the town, Travnik feels very different from many other places in the country.

Travnik sits about 90 kilometres west of Sarajevo and was once the capital of the Ottoman province of Bosnia. Much of that history is still visible today, with old mosques, traditional houses and even two clock towers surviving throughout the town.

One of the more unusual sights is the old steam locomotive displayed in the centre. A spark from a train is said to have caused a devastating fire in 1903 that destroyed much of Travnik, and the locomotive now serves as a reminder of that event.

If you’re planning a visit, here’s our Travnik travel guide covering what to do, where to eat and why we think this underrated town is worth a stop.

Where to stay in Travnik

We stayed at Apartment Aid, a 2 bedroom apartment in the center of Travnik. Modern, clean, great place to stay and the host was lovely, sharing all his recommendations.

What to do in Travnik

There aren’t loads of tourist attractions in Travnik, but that was part of the city’s charm for us. Rather than rushing between sights, we found ourselves enjoying the slower pace of life, wandering around town and stopping for coffee.

That said, there are still a handful of interesting places worth visiting during your stay, which we’ve listed below.

Stari Grad Castle

Travnik Castle dates back to the period before the Ottoman Empire ruled Bosnia and Herzegovina. The fortress has been well preserved over the years and remains one of the town’s most impressive landmarks.

We particularly enjoyed the views from the top, which stretch across Travnik and the surrounding hills. If you’re visiting the town, it’s definitely worth making the climb, if only for the scenery and a few good photos.

Plava Voda

Plava Voda, or ‘blue water’ trickles along the stream to the east of Travnik Castle. Wooden bridges crisscross over the water and restaurants and bars line the water’s edge, it’s a popular spot to relax and enjoy a coffee. The Lutvina Kahva Coffeehouse is of historical significance after the Hapsburg Prince dropped in here in 1887 and left a gold coin to keep the place open. Grab a Lutvina Kaffe (basically a Bosnian coffee with a Turkish Delight, a cigarette and a box of matches) and listen to the clear blue water gurgle past you.

Stari Grad

Stari Grad means old town. Travnik’s old town is situated on the hillside of the city, and it is the perfect place to just walk around and get lost in small alleys.

Where to eat in Travnik

Hari ćevabdžinica

After traveling around Bosnia, there’s one thing that everyone agrees upon. The best Ćevapi is from Travnik and the best restaurant to get it at is at Hari. It is without doubt the best we’ve ever tasted. The bread is fresh with a light dusting of sesame seeds. The meat is perfectly cooked with no lumps or gristle. Grab a seat round the back outside next to the river, it’s the perfect accompliment to this national dish. Of course any place serving the best Ćevapi in Bosnia will be a little busy, but went there twice and didn’t have to wait at all. The staff are super friendly and speak very good English.

Kod Seje

If Burek is your bag, drop into Kod Seje just opposite the ‘Colorful Mosque’. The burek is cooked over an open fire and is very fresh. The menu is tiny, they serve three types of burek, but when something is this good who needs choice. Inside is stone walls decorated with old Bosnian paraphenalia.

October 17, 2018 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Jajce Travel Guide: Bosnia’s Waterfall Town

by Sam October 16, 2018

written by Sam

Jajce is a charming little town in central Bosnia and Herzegovina. With its mix of Ottoman architecture, stone streets and historic buildings, parts of it almost feel like a small Italian hill town. At the same time, reminders of the Bosnian War are still visible, with bullet holes remaining on some buildings throughout the town.

We loved the slower pace of life in Jajce. It felt like the kind of place where you could spend a few days wandering around, drinking coffee and getting pleasantly lost in the old town.

In this Jajce travel guide, we’ll share our favourite things to do, where to eat and why we think this underrated town is worth adding to your Bosnia itinerary.

Where to stay in Jajce

We stayed at Jajce Youth Hostel, which was the cheapest accommodation we found at the time. Location was great, just outside one of the gates to old town and within walking distance to the waterfall, as well as bus station.

What to do in Jajce

There isn’t a huge amount to do in Jajce, but there are enough sights and attractions to fill a couple of days. The real highlight, however, is simply slowing down and enjoying the town itself. Grab a coffee at one of the many cafés, wander the old streets and soak up the relaxed atmosphere.

Jajce Waterfalls

The main attraction in Jajce is the famous waterfall right in the centre of town. It’s definitely worth seeing and one of the most unusual landmarks in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

There is an entrance fee if you want to walk down to the base of the waterfall, but personally we didn’t think it was necessary. The views from above were already excellent and gave us a great perspective of the falls.

There is also a viewpoint on the opposite side of the river that many visitors miss. You can see it from the town side, a small open area with a picnic table overlooking the waterfall. To get there, simply cross the bridge and follow the road. There isn’t a pavement on that side and traffic can move quite quickly, so take care and stay as far to the side as possible.

In our opinion, this viewpoint offered one of the best views of the waterfall and was well worth the short walk.

Visit Jajce Fort

One place you shouldn’t miss is Jajce Fortress. Sitting on top of the hill above town, it offers fantastic views over Jajce and the surrounding countryside. If we’re being honest, we found the views far more impressive than the fortress itself, the panoramic views alone made the climb worthwhile. Entry is inexpensive (October 2018), making it a great stop if you’re travelling on a budget.

Get Lost on Purpose

Jajce isn’t the kind of place where you’ll get lost for hours, but it’s still worth taking the time to wander around the small streets surrounding the fortress and old town.

Once you step away from the main street, you’ll get a glimpse of everyday life in Jajce. The winding alleys, old houses and quiet corners give the town an almost village-like feel. It’s the perfect place for a slow stroll and a chance to enjoy the relaxed pace of life.

Drink Coffee

Like everywhere else we visited in Bosnia, Jajce has no shortage of cafés serving traditional Bosnian coffee.

Our favourite was a small café next to the catacombs, where we had some of the best Bosnian coffee of our entire month travelling through the country. There wasn’t any sun on the outdoor terrace when we visited, so we sat on the stone wall outside instead. The owner noticed this and kindly brought us cushions to sit on, before serving our coffee alongside Turkish delight.

It was a small gesture, but one that perfectly summed up the friendliness and hospitality we experienced throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina. The coffee was excellent and very reasonably priced too. Not sure if it’s there anymore, but if it is sit down and enjoy a coffee.

Visit the Catacombs

The catacombs are another of the few attractions in Jajce, but we thought they were worth a visit. Having never visited any other catacombs, we don’t really have anything to compare them to, but they were larger than we expected and even have two levels to explore.

They won’t be the highlight of your trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, but if you’re already heading up to the fortress they’re well worth a quick stop. They’re also nice and cool inside, making it a good escape from the summer heat.

If you have a little time to spare while exploring Jajce, we’d recommend taking a look.

Where to Eat in Jajce

Kod Asim

This place is really nice, a little touristy but definitely worth a visit. A must try is the Lonac, a specialty for the region. It is served in a claypot and it is divine!

Update May 2026: We can no longer find this restaurant on Google Maps and are unsure whether it is still operating. We’re leaving it in this guide as we really enjoyed eating here during our visit. It is possibly called “Restoran Omerbegova kuća” now.

Kristal Grill

Good place for lunch on the main street. They serve grill dishes and some cooked meals too. The food is good and affordable.

October 16, 2018 0 comments

Bosnia-Herzegovina

A Slow Travel Experience by the Pliva River

by Sam October 15, 2018

written by Sam

We spent a week in a small village on the banks of the Pliva River and it ended up being one of our favourite experiences in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Surrounded by forests, crystal-clear water and fresh mountain air, Pliva was exactly what we needed after weeks of travelling. It was a place to slow down, clear our heads, catch up on some work and simply enjoy being somewhere peaceful for a while.

Staying by the River

We stayed at the Vacation Home Pliva, Brđani, a simple but beautiful riverside house with everything we needed. The family owning the property immediately made us feel welcome and treated us more like family than customers. The family dog tended to come out with us on walks around the countryside, which was lovely. They also took us with them when they went mushroom picking in the forest.

Life in Pliva

Life moves slowly here. There are a few small local shops selling basic groceries like eggs, milk, butter and of course beer if you need it. Do any bigger shopping before arriving here. The local restaurant charges about double what you’d expect to pay in the city, but the food is well prepared any very tasty.

Instead, you come for the river, the nature and the peace and quiet.

Fly Fishing on the Pliva River

The Pliva River is famous for fly fishing. Groups coming from all over the world to spend time wading up and down the river perfecting their cast. It’s common to see fishing tourists relaxing in the local “bar” (a kiosk with some tables outside) telling their stories of ‘the one that got away’.

During our stay we met Paul Arden from sexyloops.com (world renowned fly fisherman) who was great fun to chat with, not only about Fly fishing, but also about life in general.

Walk to the Source of the River

One of our favourite walks was following the river upstream to its source. In fact, there are two sources, where the water emerges from caves and beneath the rocks. Seeing such a beautiful river begin as a small trickle of water was surprisingly fascinating.

Along the way we stumbled across a group of locals making homemade rakija. Before we knew it, we had been invited over to see what they were doing and were handed a glass to try. Politely declining wasn’t really an option. As a woman, Livia managed to get away with a single shot. Sam wasn’t so lucky and had to drink three before they were willing to let us continue our walk.

After a chat, a few laughs and a rather strong taste of homemade rakija, we continued on towards the source of the river, only to discover it was about five minutes away. The problem, of course, was that we also had to walk back the same way. Sure enough, we were spotted immediately and invited over for another round. By the time we finally escaped, Sam was relying on a walking stick for balance during the hour-long walk back along the river.

Moments like this ended up becoming some of our favourite memories from Bosnia and Herzegovina.

How to Get to Pliva

We took a taxi from Banja Luka directly to Pliva which cost us €38 (October 2018). You can also catch a bus to the nearest town of Šipovo and take a short 10 minute taxi ride for about €7,50 (October 2018).

Update May 2026: Transport prices have likely changed since our visit in 2018.

Final Thoughts

Pliva isn’t somewhere most tourists visit, and that’s exactly why we loved it.

If you’re looking for a few days of nature, fresh air and slow travel in Bosnia and Herzegovina, we’d happily recommend spending some time by the Pliva River.

October 15, 2018 0 comments

Newer Posts

Older Posts